A natural fit for Bell & Ross, ceramics were introduced into the watchmaking industry in the 1980s, and is a perfect material for the brand – being used in aerospace applications such as rocket nose cones and heat shields for spacecraft. Bell & Ross first utilised ceramic in their flagship BR01 watch in 2011, and now, their more urban BR05 reflects the brand’s acute attention to the ceramics manufacturing processes. Three new BR05 models join the collection with a ceramic case and ceramic bracelet options that reflect the slick new direction of these aviation inspired urban pieces.

Two of the three models will become permanent members of the collection, and the third will be a 500 piece limited edition. The BR05 Black Ceramic features the brand’s signature cockpit clock design, with a sunburst finish, and the date at 3 o’clock, whilst the BR05 Skeleton Black Ceramic features a skeletonised dial and a cleaner layout that omits the date window. As an option, the models are also available on a black rubber strap and a folding buckle. The styling is contemporary, yet has a touch of retro blended into it with the 70s style integrated bracelet and strap design. Measuring in at 41mm in diameter, the watch maintains a powerful presence on the wrist whilst managing to not feel oversized. These two models also manage to play with finishes, with a refined mix of brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet.

The limited edition BR05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, limited to 500 pieces worldwide, is finished in a stealthy matte ceramic case and bracelet, with a skeletonised dial and green hour markers and hands. In particular, the green markers and hands on the dial are filled with C5 SuperLuminova, which gives an almost ethereal green glow to the dial, as well as providing much needed contrast to the matte black case. This model only has the bracelet option available to it, but in our eyes, we would have it no other way.

All watches come with a screw-in crown and 100m water resistance for the ultimate in everyday usability.

Powering the BR05 Black Ceramic is the BR321-1 Automatic movement – a Sellita based movement, with date, and 54 hours of power reserve. The BR05 Skeleton Black Ceramic and Black Lum Ceramic are powered by the BR322-1 which is a skeletonised version of the Sellita movement made to Bell & Ross specifications – this too has a power reserve of 54 hours.

Bell & Ross has continuously and successfully reinvented themselves in their collections, whilst also remaining true to their cockpit instrument design – this has enabled them to have longevity amongst watch enthusiasts, and longevity in their designs. The BR05 series represents an evolution in this design, and firmly sets it into the world of streetwear and contemporary fashion, whilst maintaining the key DNA that Bell & Ross have been known for over the past decade. A strong complement to the current collection, the three models unveiled at Watches and Wonders are sure to surprise and delight their owners with the smart details and bold design.

This nickname though, comes not just from the green dial, but also from the embossed monogram of the “&” symbol, that famous ampersand that everyone readily identifies as a Bell & Ross signature. The embossed ampersands that alternate their orientation every row have been done in a very detailed way, as you can see from the close up picture below.

It’s the first time that a Bell & Ross watch features a dial design like this, and I must say, it is very attractive. Yet in the manner that it was been done, at normal time-reading distances, the design is small enough to get out of the way when needed, making sure that legibility is not sacrificed.

The other interesting detail about this watch revolves around the number of limited edition pieces that will be produced of the watch – 111. It does seem like a random number and the explanation as to why it was chosen is quite simple and rather unique.

The first thing to know is that the watch was created for the partnership between Bell & Ross and Sincere Fine Watches Singapore, in conjunction with the opening of the Bell & Ross mono boutique at Marina Bay Sands. Well then, what number do the towers of Marina Bay Sands look like? See this picture below:

So that’s the reason why. Honestly, I’ve never heard of a limited edition number being decided in this way before, but its quirky and creative and for this reason, kind of cool.

Retailing for SGD$7,900, the the Bell & Ross X Sincere Fine Watches, BR05 SINCERE GREEN STEEL will be available exclusively the Bell & Ross mono brand boutique at Marina Bay Sands.

Technical Specifications

Reference: BR05 Sincere Green Steel

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.321. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 40 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Screw-down crown. Sapphire case back with a 360° oscillating weight.

Dial: green sunray and embossed monogram of “&”. Applique indices coated in beige Super-LumiNova® with light green emission. Skeletonised hour and minute hands lled with Super-LumiNova® light green emission.

Water resistance: 100 metres

Strap: satin-polished steel.

Buckle: folding. Satin-polished steel.

This is obvious when one looks at the design details that make up the watches in the BRX5 collection. Whereas the related BR05 collection was an elegant take on the iconic square shape of the brand, the BRX5 uses the same foundation, but leans in further to the sporty side. 

This is especially evident in the multi layer case construction of the watch, with a hollowed out architecture that reminds one of the strong but space saving structures of race cars or bridges. Viewed from the side, one can see the inner steel core part of the case that holds the movement.

This is then sandwiched between the square bezel and the caseback, with a colour-coded gasket (I assume based on dial colour), with everything held in place via four screws that come in through the corners.

At 41mm wide and 12.8mm thick, the watch is well sized for most, having a good presence yet not being burdensome on the wrist. 

One of the most noteworthy changes that this new collection introduces as well is its new manufacture movement made by Kenissi that offers several technical advantages over the ETA/ Sellita based movements of previous collections. 

For those unfamiliar with Kenissi, it is a company founded and run by Tudor, that provides customizable, high-performance, highly robust movements to outside brands. This bodes well for the BR-CAL. 323 movement in the BRX5 watches, since like the ones found in Tudor watches, it comes with a modern 70 hour power reserve and can be (and is) COSC certified. Noteworthy as well is that this movement is supported by a 5 year warranty for the first time by Bell & Ross, as opposed to the 2 years of the standard warranty. 

Because of the customizable nature of the Kenissi made movement, the BRX5 comes with a dial detail that is not really associated with Tudor, save for the North Flag that came out more than 5 years ago. This is the large 3-day power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and it seems that it will be one of the design signatures of the new collection. Even though it does take up quite a bit of real estate on the dial, in the way that it is designed, it does not affect legibility at all, and its presence does really drive the point home about the power reserve advantage of the new movement over the previous ones. Then, at the 3 o’clock position on the dial is a triple date aperture, which is noteworthy for being inspired by analog flight instruments. 

The two dial variations available at launch are in black and ice blue, and either can be bought on a metal bracelet or matching open-worked rubber strap. There is really nothing more to say about the black dial version, since it is the benchmark version that most would gravitate to. Regarding the ice blue version, let’s just say it, you’ll probably hear the word “Tiffany” in your head when you look at it, and that's fine. There’s no harm in brands following prevailing trends and it is indeed a nice colour when you see the watch in person. 

Bell & Ross will be following up this announcement with a global launch in the coming weeks and I look forward to having some hands-on time with the watches, and will update this article with live pictures. Look out for it.

 Technical Specifications:

Movement:
BR-CAL.323. Manufacture. Automatic mechanical. Approximate power reserve of 72 hours.

Functions:
hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o’clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.

Case:
41 mm in width. 12.80 mm thick. Satin- finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with oscillating weight.

Dial:
sunray black or sunray ice blue. Applique indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super- LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands. Black flange with 60-minute scale with white marking

Crystal:
sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance:
100 metres.

Strap:
openworked black or ice blue rubber. or satin- finished and polished steel.

Buckle:
folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.

To honour these professions and watches that have come before it, Bell & Ross have unveiled the BR03-94 Multimeter, a colourful chronograph that appears complex on its surface, but is well thought out in terms of its design, with its cockpit inspired case and usage of different hues for its indications.

As its name suggests, the BR03-94 Multimeter features multiple scales on the dial for different use cases. Each have a unique way of using the chronograph to calculate crucial measurements – featured on the dial, from outside to inside are:

– Tachymeter – Typically used in motorsports, but can also be used in cycling and athletics, the tachymeter is probably the most commonly seen scale on chronographs that are released today, used for calculating speed over a certain distance. A tachymeter is usually calibrated for a certain distance (usually 1 kilometre or 1 mile), and the chronograph is started when the vehicle/bicycle/runner crosses a starting point. The chronograph is then stopped when the racer crosses the finish line. On the BR03-94 Multimeter, there are three tachymeters incorporated into the watch, one in white calibrated for 1km/1mi (aimed at motorsport), a second one in “pale green” calibrated for 250m (specifically for cycling) and a third in “light grey”/olive green calibrated for 100m (able to be used by sprinters and athletes).

– Pulsometer – Physicians and nurses would traditionally use this scale to measure heart rate in beats per minute (BPM). Using a stethoscope and starting their chronograph, the measurement would be taken by listening to the patient’s heartbeat, and counting up to what the chronograph is graduated for – in the case of the BR03-94 Multimeter, it is calibrated to 15 beats, and is distinguished by its orange colour.

– Asthmometer – A scale that is not often seen on modern watches, even ones designed for physicians, the Asthmometer is utilised to calculate the rate of respiration in a patient, measured in breaths per minute (BPM). Using the chronograph, the physician would start the timer and count one breath in and one breath out as one respiration. In the case of the BR03-94 Multimeter, it is calibrated to 5 breaths (5 breaths in and 5 breaths out) and designated a “bottle green” colour.

The BR03-94 Multimeter features its distinctive cockpit inspired case, with its “circle in a square” design. Originally created in 2005, the case design of this series is reminiscent of analogue cockpit instruments of planes past. Executed in matte black ceramic, the watch measures in at 42mm wide and 12.8mm thick, giving an impression of great presence, without overpowering the wrist and overhanging on either side. Its square pushers also add to the bold look – integrating into the instrument style look of the case. The dial is the most distinctive feature of the watch, with its multi-coloured scales traversing the periphery of the watch.

To aid in legibility and functionality of its scales, the date function has been moved between 12 and 1 (normally on this model it is located around 4 and 5 o’clock).

In addition, the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock are double weighted – in essence, double handed to make up for the lack of traditional counters, where half of the space for the counters is taken up by the different scales. Counting of the chronograph seconds, however, is traditionally laid out, with the seconds markers at its periphery. On the left hand side of the dial is a legend that outlines each of the five scales. Scales that can be utilised by physicians take up the right hand side of the dial, and the tachymeter indications take up the inner part of the dial. A 100m water resistance rating and a specially moulded rubber strap on a black PVD steel pin buckle completes the watch, and gives it its everyday wearability.

Powering the watch is a BR-CAL.301 Automatic Mechanical movement with a bi-compax chronograph layout, based on an ever-reliable ETA 2894-2 movement with a modular construction.

Bell & Ross continue to make novel displays for their watches, and the BR03-94 Multimeter is no different. It serves as an educational tool, teaching us about scales used for chronographs, and shows the versatility of the chronograph in a modern way. Much like health monitors of today, its design is akin to that of modern movement goal trackers, and the BR03-94 Multimeter shows its versatility in all sports and professions – at the very least, it pays tribute to them in a contemporary manner. Limited to 500 pieces worldwide, it sure to be a bold watch, polarising in its design, but starting meaningful conversation around chronographs and their utility.

Tech Specs

Movement: BR-CAL.301. Automatic mechanical

Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock and date. Chronograph: 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, central chronograph seconds. Tachymeter, pulsometer and asthmometer.

Case: 42 mm in width. 12.80 mm thick. Matt black ceramic.

Dial: black. Indicators for 3 tachymeter zones, 1 pulsometer zone and 1 asthmometer zone. Minute track painted white on the flange. Super-LumiNova®-painted hour and minute hands.

Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating. 

Water-resistance: 100 metres.

Strap: perforated black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.

Buckle: pin. Steel with black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) finish

Limited Edition: 500 pieces worldwide

First established in order to raise funds for research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy via the auction of unique watches from participating brands. This goal has progressed steadily along since then, with the funds raised over the years contributing to the milestone of the first clinical trial of a new ASO-tricycle-DNA designed for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy that will take place in 2022.

It hasn’t only benefited medical search however, for watchmaking, the Only Watch auction has allowed brands to debut new concepts and ideas in watchmaking, also allowing collectors the opportunity to buy unique pieces from a wide variety of brands instead of just from the usual suspects, and this on a somewhat regular basis.

In fact, comparing my experience with the earlier editions of the Only Watch auction which were relatively low key affairs, I have seen a steady growth in its importance to watchmaking. There is now a palpable sense that this is an event as worthy as the “real” auctions, given how at the recent exhibition hosted by The Hour Glass, at the Singapore stop of the 2021 edition’s tour around the world, more days and appointments slots had to be added to cope with the overwhelming interest. 

The nice thing is, unlike a regular auction where you try to get a watch as cheaply as possible, participating in the Only Watch motivates you to bid higher because the proceeds go to a good cause. 

Well, I won’t be bidding at the auction that will be held tomorrow on the 6th of November 2021 in Geneva, but I, along with contributor Martin Goh (see part two), go though some of our selections that we would bid on, if our bank accounts could support it. 

Bell & Ross BR-01 Cyber Skull Sapphire 

Bell & Ross has been making skull themed watches for some time, offering a wide variety of types over the years to the point that they are the only brand that seems devoted to the theme. Their contribution to Only Watch is a sapphire cased version of what I would consider their best Skull watch – the Laughing Skull – one that you can read about here. 

This time it’s called the Cyber Skull, and the reason why is that it is made of faceted orange sapphire, and this against a striking transparent sapphire case. The custom movement – BR.CAL.309, designed in the shape of the skull is available to view in all its glory because of this. 

As well, the owner of this watch can adjust the position of the mandible of the skull when winding, and then view it move up and down as the watch runs and the mainspring unwinds. 

MISS AUDREY SWEET FAIRY ONLY WATCH by Bovet 

This is a cute ladies piece that seems simple on the surface, yet knowing that it’s a Bovet, the essential question to ask is – what’s so special about this? 

Well, it’s all in the orange background of the miniature painting of “Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy”. It is sweet not just in name, but literally, as the dial is made out of pure sugar. It’s a new and patented technique by Bovet, and the sugar crystals coloured orange, are visible when you peer closely at the surface. 

It is definitely a surprising realization, a bit out of left field perhaps, but overall a cohesive idea taken to a logical conclusion. “Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy” as well has some integrated Super Luminova so it might look interesting in the dark, although I haven’t been able to see this in the press pictures. Would love to though. 

Lastly, thanks to the way that the case is constructed, this is a piece that can transition from being worn on the wrist to being worn as a pendant. 

Highlife Monolithic Manufacture Only Watch 2021 by Frederique Constant 

For a start, it’s worth pointing out that Frederique Constant’s new one piece silicon escapement that was launched early this year (Read our article here) is the fastest beating oscillator in a mechanical watch ever created. It is a technical marvel that uses the special qualities of silicon to run at an unprecedented speed of 40 Hz.

This Only Watch version of the Highlife Monolithic manufacture comes in an 18K rose gold case, an open dial decorated with blue Côtes de Genève and the Monolithic Oscillator taking pride of place at the 6 o’clock position. 

Personally, it was exciting to see this watch as I have not been able to see the Monolithic Oscillator in person due to it not being available yet in Singapore. For Frederique Constant, it’s certainly a great way to get the technology in people’s hands, and it’s definitely one of the great ways that the Only Watch auction can be a platform to showcase the more nerdy side of watchmaking to the wider world.

Martian Tourbillon Only Watch by Konstantin Chaykin

The Joker series of watches from Konstantin Chaykin, has grown to become a signature offering from the brand, and it’s nice to see that the idiosyncratic design can evolve to take on slightly offbeat ideas. 

The Martian Tourbillon Only Watch therefore is billed the first first Martian tourbillon, as it runs based on the Martian minute, making a revolution every 61.65 seconds. This makes the watch not very useful here on earth, since the time shown will be a little bit out of sync at first, and more as the days go on. The main advantage however is that you’ll be ready with a watch to wear when the selection process happens for human beings to go to Mars. Or, if it takes longer than your natural lifetime for this to occur, you can use this watch to keep track of Martian time while viewing the inevitable broadcasts that come from the drones and rovers that will be sent first to conduct reconnaissance. 

Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021 by Maurice Lacroix

I have a particular affinity for the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date that was launched at Watches and Wonders 2021, since it was based on one of my favourite watches from the brand, the Gravity. (Read my love letter to the Gravity here). Now rendered in a sportier Aikon case, it continues to expand the offering of complicated watches for the Aikon line. 

As the current flagship model for Maurice Lacroix, it’s nice to see the Aikon Master Grand Date rendered in an unexpected manner for Only Watch 2021 since it does show the potential of this model being extremely sporty. 

The carbon fibre case is the main draw here, and the motivation for this is the brand’s involvement as the Official TImekeeper of Mahindra Racing, in the ABB FIA Formula E World Championship. The carbon fibre of the case and bezel comes from an actual Mahindra Racing car, which does make the collaboration much more meaningful. 

It would have been nice to have the colours (red, blue and white) from the racing team on this watch, but I can understand why Mautice Lacroix went with orange, as it is this year’s colour for Only Watch 2021. 

This watch does show the tantalizing possibility of Maurice Lacroix introducing carbon into a standard production Aikon Master Grand Date, which I would look forward to. If not, the new owner of this watch will be able to enjoy a full VIP hospitality package at any 2022 round of the ABB FIA FOrmula E World Championship with the only carbon AIkon Master Grand Date to exist. 

Tudor Black Bay GMT One  

This version of the Tudor GMT is interesting as it marks the second release of a Master Chronometer watch from the brand, following the one in the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic that was launched earlier this year. 

It was a surprise move when the Black Bay Ceramic was launched, making use of the extremely stringent certification that until that point had only been used by Omega. 

It’s great that this Black Bay GMT, a very popular piece in the Tudor line up, (read about it here) receives this technically forward certification, which might point to future production versions also having it as well. Though that is not the only interesting thing about this watch. The grey coated steel case and bracelet have been processed with a secret ageing technique that makes this Black Bay GMT One very cool. 

Will we see a new Black Bay GMT updated to Master Chronometer spec, or maybe other Black Bay watches with this new aged aesthetic? If one of both of these things happens, sign me up. 

The BR 05 GMT is a familiar design from Bell & Ross, its dial design taken from the cockpit-inspired collections that the company has made in the past. The large numerals and markers are now executed with applied markers and the dial is now a black sunray finish, giving a sense of depth and sophistication to the dial whilst remaining highly legible. Compared to the original BR 05, the addition of the GMT function means an additional chapter ring for the 24 hour indicator was added. The black denotes the night time, and the grey indicates daytime – the colour scheme being very utilitarian in its appearance. Four hands are visible on the dial – baton-shaped hour and minute hands, central seconds, and the 24 hour hand that has been given a large, lume-filled triangular-tipped hand with red colouring to separate it from the rest of the hands. A date window is visible at 3 o’clock, giving this watch maximum convenience for those on extended voyages.

The integrated case and bracelet have certainly piqued the interest of watch lovers everywhere – most certainly a polarising design choice. For those that love the all-metal look, the flow of the bracelet and its integration into the case has been designed with comfort and style in mind. The way the bracelet curves around the wrist has been paid close attention to, and drapes very well over the wrist. If bracelets are not your thing though, a black rubber strap is available with a folding clasp – one that integrates into the case of the watch. A 100m water resistance rating with screw in crown also means that the watch will survive the elements, or an “unintentional” fall into the hotel pool.

A design signature of Bell & Ross, the stainless steel watch case has its familiar “Circle within a Square” design, however, when compared to the original BR 05 model, the size has been ever so slightly increased to 41mm. This increase means that the watch has also had some proportions revised, resulting in a slightly thinner bezel on the BR 05 GMT – bringing it in line with the BR 05 Chrono.

Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback is what Bell & Ross calls the BR-CAL.325, an automatic mechanical movement with GMT function. Important to note is that the GMT function on this watch adjusts the red 24 hour hand in 1 hour increments, colloquially known as a “caller’s GMT”. This enables the wearer to see local/home time and date with the main hour and minute hands and the date aperture, and the second time zone is read through the 24 hour hand.  

The Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT is undoubtedly a stylish and functional watch – getting the job done whilst looking great doing it. It evokes a sense of wanderlust for those who wear it, a reminder of modern-day travel, and creates a yearning for adventure within its owner. For a watch that can muster these feelings within its wearer, the BR 05 GMT is ready to accompany its wearer on whatever their travels will bring them. 

Tech Specs

Reference: BR05G-BL-ST

Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.325. Automatic mechanical. 

Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, second 24-hour time zone and date. Quick setting of the GMT hand, independently of the hour hand. 

Case: 41 mm in width. Satin-finished and polished steel. White and black two-colour flange, with 24-hour scale. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight. 

Dial: Black sunray. Numerals and indices coated in white Super- LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands. 

Crystal: Sapphire Crystal with anti-reflective coating

Water-resistance: 100 metres

Strap: Black Rubber, or satin-finished and polished steel
Buckle: Folding, Satin finished and polished steel

Bell & Ross has been doing some interesting things with lume since they launched the LUM line in 2017, and I’m glad that they’ve been committed to exploring the possibilities of making their watches look like miniature parties in the dark.

The last Bell & Ross I enjoyed was the BR 03-92 Diver FULL LUM diver, that I tried on with a strap from the BR 03-92 FULL LUM (non-diver), which was very awesome, and certainly the type of combination that would be great to wear in a club.

So now Bell & Ross continues with the same concept, unveiling the first Vintage model with the LUM concept applied, the new Vintage BR V2-94 FULL LUM.

Like the other FULL LUM watches, this one also has, instead of luminescent material on just the indices and hands, a fully photoluminescent dial coated in Super-LumiNova.

It’s a little different though with this watch, because of the combination of three different Super-LumiNova® colours: pale green (C5) for the most of the dial, pale yellow (C3) for the Arabic numerals and hour indices, and blue (C3) for the 30 minute chronograph counter.

By daylight, while both sub-dials appear white against a background in light green, in the dark their colours appear different, with the blue of the 30 minute chronograph counter in contrast with everything else around it. It’s a nice touch since this is a chronograph watch after all, and the fact that it is highlighted does go with the core complication of the watch. Not only that, it allows the elapsed minutes to be more easily distinguished in the dark, if you are actually going to be using the chronograph under these conditions.

To further help your activities in the dark, the tip of the chronograph seconds hand is also coated in blue Super-LumiNova, further tying all the hands parts of the watch, with the same related functions together.

The rest of the watch will be familiar to those already familiar with the BR V2-94. It is a 100 metre water resistant chronograph with screw down chronograph pushers carrying the calibre BR-CAL.301 Automatic movement in a 41mm case. Additionally it comes in a black rubber strap that will enable you to swim without worry.

One thing I want to note with these pictures is that the part of the dial that is supposed to look green, looks a little blue instead. I believe that it might have to do with the sensor of my camera, or perhaps that the exposure timing might have caused the colours to shift a little. Doesn’t matter though, this is a watch that will be very enjoyable to wear in the dark, and you can use it to time nocturnal activities that take no more than 30 minutes.

While the brand has largely been defined by its cockpit instrument inspired dials, the launch of the BR 01 SKULL’s edgy design back in 2009 challenged traditional luxury watch designs. So if you decided that you needed a watch to match your weekend warrior dose of masculine aggression complete with torn jeans and a leather jacket, Bell & Ross had just the watch for you. Since then, the collection received several iterations that included a tourbillon (BR 01 Tourbillon Skull), a tattooed case (BR 01 Burning Skull), and the even more macabre but very cool BR 01 Laughing Skull that featured an animated jaw. Because a static skull just isn’t enough to express your mood.

This new entry, however, is more than just a facelift (pun intended). While the previous BR X1 gave us a peek into the future with its case design, the BR 01 Cyber Skull has dialled it up by several notches. It is a complete radical redesign of the brand’s iconic square case to match the geometrical aesthetics of the star of the show and a glimpse into what could potentially be a new chapter for Bell & Ross.

The case is an interesting evolution from the original BR 01. The signature circle-within-a-square is nowhere to be seen, and the four screws in the corners have transitioned to the inner workings of the dial. The lugs are gone and, in their place, cut-outs for the rubber strap within the case continue its new streamlined look. These adjustments have elongated the case, transforming it into a rectangle, and the crystal now takes on the responsibility of retaining the brand-defining square. These changes make for a futuristic and smartwatch-esque look.

The design language takes inspiration from the Lockheed F-117 Nighthawk stealth attack aircraft. The BR 01 Cyber Skull has also reshaped the skull motif from detailed realism into an angular polygonal symbol, packaged into the multi-faceted case. Both are crafted from black ceramic with a matte finish, as are the crossbones that have now been integrated into the dial, sitting on the bridges that fasten the movement to the corners of the case. This modern interpretation of Jolly Roger is sandwiched between the clear, anti-reflective sapphire crystals, and the result is a skeletonised (how fitting) watch that appears to float within the case. The silhouette is stealthy, the facets pop as you approach, and the lumed hour and minute hands provide practical visibility in darker environments.

The hand-wound BR-CAL.206 movement from the Laughing Skull powers this timepiece, which means you can continue to decide the degree of the snigger with the moving jaw. Also similar is the exposed balance spring that serves as the brain within the skull.

Despite its stealth-inspired design, don’t expect this to go unnoticed. The case sits large on the wrist with its 45mm x 46.5mm dimensions. The bold, avant-garde design will attract a fair amount of attention, but surely that is the entire point of a statement timepiece such as this.

Whether this signals a new creative direction for future Bell & Ross models remains to be seen. If it does, consider me intrigued.

It’s easy to see why this might be, since the watch keeps to the signature case aesthetic of the Bell & Ross brand and venturing into an all new genre – diving watches. 

Large, bold and aesthetically unique, quite a few variations have already been released, such as the Bronze and the magnificent Full Lum Divers as notable examples. 

Now Bell & Ross are putting a more classic spin on the watch, introducing the new BR-03-92 Diver Orange that comes unsurprisingly with an orange dial. 

Now the colour orange for the dial of a diving watch is most famously associated with Doxa and the Sub 300, a watch that was released in 1967 at Baselworld. It makes sense for a diving watch since above water, it is highly visible for safety, and underwater, it disappears after red and yellow, which provides tremendous contrast to the white hands for readability. 

In this watch, Bell & Ross has decided to adhere to the vintage vibe of the colour, by giving the watch a black anodised aluminium bezel as opposed to a modern ceramic one. 

Helping the presentation along are the raised luminous indices against the orange dial that give a sense of depth to the dial, as all as a date wheel in a matching orange.

The watch also comes mounted on a black rubber strap with an orange Velcro strap in the box as well. This new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Orange is a 250 piece limited edition available only at Bell & Ross boutiques or online via the Bell & Ross e-boutique, priced at SGD$5600:

  https://www.bellross.com/our-collections/Instruments/br-03-92-diver-watch/br-03-92-diver-c/BR-03-92-DIVER-ORANGE

A fully lumed dial in a diving watch also makes the most sense since legibility in dark conditions is par for the course, and a basic prerequisite for survival. In this new BR03-92, it gives us watch enthusiasts a visual treat, as it is a dial that endures no half measures, lighting up like a party in the dark.

The thing that fully lumed dials have to do however, is be reminded that they are watches that have to be used in well-lit conditions as well. This means that the colour tone that they appear in when there is light, has to be accounted for when designing the overall look of the watches. Now some fully lumed dials from other brands might impress in the dark, but come the day time, the off white, greenish tone is not handled well.Thankfully, the BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM is realized extremely well. The squared off black ceramic case and bezel provides the foundation for the rest of the elements, which include the tones of grey that come through on the black elements (such as the logo, minute indices and hands) when enough light touches the dial. This monochromatic palette is countered by the two shades of Super-Luminova that make up the rest of the dial. The dial comes in a green Superluminova® C5 pigment, while the metal applique skeletonized indices and the bezel’s numerals are filled with a green Superluminova® C3, which appears a slightly yellowish shade of white.It’s subtle, but the effect is well put together, and it is the best iteration of a fully lumed dial that I’ve seen in a long time. And need I mention as well that it also has a fully lumed bezel, an uncommon feature still, in diving watches today.

The watch when paired with a black ceramic case comes across as a serious diving instrument on the one hand, and also a piece of graphic art on the other, which is quite a strange statement to make, but is true in this case.Now, I was curious to see how this watch would fare when paired with the glow in the dark strap from the BR 03-92 FULL LUM, another watch from the brand with a fully lumed dial. Well, I must say, it brings things up to a different level!Take note though, the BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM does not come on this strap, so you’ll probably have to buy it separately if you want to achieve the look that you see here.It’s great to see that the BR03-92 DIVER collection has already spawned so many interesting variations, and is beginning its life to become a staple collection from the brand. This version of the watch though, the BR 03-92 DIVER FULL LUM will be limited to 999 pieces. It will also come with two straps, the first, one in black rubber with a black PVD pin buckle as seen in these pictures. The second, one in ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas that has a quick to adjust Velcro closure system. [ninja_tables id=”5572″]