Despite the time of the Amida Digitrend being in the thick of the Quartz Crisis, the original watch did not use the technology that was on trend at the time. Instead, the Amida Digitrend featured mechanical watchmaking, in an affordable 1 jewel movement, or a pin anchor 17 jewel movement variant. Ingeniously, the brand utilised a clever display that they patented as the LRD – the Light Reflecting Display. Shaped like a prism, the crystal projects the horizontal discs of the movement in a vertical arrangement – a display that was often referred to as perfect for drivers, as the driver does not need to take their hands off the wheel to see the time. In an era where many watches of this design went with an LED quartz movement, the Amida Digitrend bucked those trends, and went mechanical. Although the brand went extinct in 1979, the watch would go on to inspire a certain brand and his friends to create their version of the watch, until its rebirth in 2024.

The modern day Amida of 2024 is headed up by enthusiast Matthieu Allegre, his partner Clement Meynier, and engineer Bruno Herbet. The story goes that one of Allegre’s friends acquired 40 Amida Digitrend watches at an auction, and when Allegre held one in his hands, it was love at first sight. The new 2024 Digitrend is machined out of 316L stainless steel, with slight improvements in its finishing and contours to give it a sleeker profile in line with modern manufacturing. The time display echoes the original, with its retro design, and the caseback is partially visible, with the “Take-Off Edition” featuring a view into the balance bridge, as well as a commemorative engraving. 

Housed within the futuristic case, is the Soprod Newton calibre, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, set with 23 jewels, and features 44 hours of power reserve.

The disc system is ingeniously designed, with only an additional 9 parts needed to convert the movement to display the time on discs. 

Pre-orders began on the 28th of May 2024, and Amida will determine how long the pre-order period will be on their website. October 2024 will see the first pieces being delivered, with plans to be stocked at physical retailers in the future, opening the door to collaborations with partners who will represent the brand at its best. The Amida Digitrend is a watch that shows the ingenuity of mechanical watchmaking, and is a piece that will start a conversation with the enthusiast and casual observer alike.

Technical Specifications:

Movement

Caliber: Soprod NEWTON P092, Swiss automatic mechanical winding 

Auxiliary module: Jumping hour disc developed in-house with 9 mechanical components and 6 screws

Jewels: 23 rubies

Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve: 44 hours

Thickness: Movement : 4.6mm, Auxiliary module: 2mm

Finishes: Côtes de Genève, sandblasted, circular-grained, skeletonized oscillating weight, rhodium-plated finishes

Indications: Dual discs, for hours and minutes, respectively (LRD – Light Reflective Display)

Case

Material: 316L stainless steel, satin-brushed and polished 

Dimensions: Width: 39.6 mm / Length: 39 mm / Height: 15.6 mm

Crystal: Sapphire crystal reflective prism

Water resistance: 5 ATM (50 meters)

Strap & Buckle: Charcoal Alcantara lined in orange calfskin

Lug width: 22mm, Stainless steel buckle, 18mm

Weight: 110 grams

Price: CHF 2’900.- (excluded VAT)

Housed within the iconic Luminor-style case with a rotating bezel, the watch is crafted from the brand’s proprietary carbon material, Carbotech. Formed out of sheets of carbon fibre, they are then compressed at controlled temperatures and pressures with a polymer to form a composite material that is extremely resistant to mechanical stress, whilst also giving each watch made from this material a character that is unique to each watch. A DLC coated titanium bezel completes the watch, giving it an action-oriented design through its diver’s inspired design and function. In addition to hours and minutes, the watch also has a running seconds at 9 o’clock, day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, and a GMT hand in red, enabling the viewing of a second time zone. The hour markers are done in the brand’s signature minimalist bar-and-dot style, which further adds to the modern look of the watch. The industrial design is further highlighted through the grid structure just beneath the hour markers that partially masks the running trains of the watch. 

Turning the watch over, we see the P.2015/T movement – a truly high horology movement with a patented tourbillon mechanism that rotates perpendicular to the axis of the balance wheel, quietly tucked away at the 10/11 o’clock position of the watch. Theoretically, this orientation of the tourbillon mechanism is to better average out the positional rate of the watch while it is on the wrist – an improvement on the original idea of the tourbillon which was developed for pocket watches. The rear-side of the movement also includes a power reserve indicator, showing a maximum run time of 4 days. The movement side also further highlights the industrial nature of the watch, with its girder-like bridges and plates spanning the movement.

As previously mentioned, the DNA of Panerai is inextricably linked to the sea, and in this case, the watch is made in tribute to the daring sailors of the Luna Rossa team. The Carbotech of the watch is also used in the boat of team Luna Rossa, linking the two through their ultra-light frames. With the watch being limited to 20 pieces, the lucky owners will get to experience a money-can’t-buy look at the team while they compete at the finals of the America’s Cup in Barcelona, with front row access to the competition, and exclusive behind-the-scenes peeks at how this team competes under pressure.

Panerai further demonstrates its linkage to the oceans through this partnership with Luna Rossa, and even gives the owners an exclusive experience to further link the brand with the owners of the watch. Buying a watch in of itself should be an experience, however, it is certain that the experiences tied to this Submersible Tourbillon GMT will leave an indelible mark on their owners, forever tying them to Panerai and their continuing story of seafaring adventurers.

Technical Specifications

Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2015/T calibre, 15 1/3 lignes, 7.88mm thick, 27 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 vibrations/hour, Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 4 days, two barrels. 256 components.

Functions: Small seconds , World time , Tourbillon , Hours , Power reserve , Second time zone , Minutes

Case: Diameter 45mm, Carbotech

Bezel: Titanium DLC anti-clockwise rotating bezel with graduated scale and numerals 

Back: Screwed, see-through sapphire crystal and titanium DLC

Water Resistance: 30.0 bar (~300.0 metres)

Strap: Bi-material grey Luna Rossa, STD, 24/22, BA

Grand Seiko has a plethora of models available in their current catalogue that embody the spirit of Japanese watchmaking, the latest of which form the backbone of their Evolution 9 series. 2020 saw the introduction of the first Evolution 9 models to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko – a milestone meant to signify the brand experiencing the full zodiac cycle, and coming full circle, being reborn as the brand we see today. The next model in this lineup was the award-winning SLGH005 “White Birch” – released in 2021, and was lauded by the GPHG in its Men’s Watch division. A further evolution was made on this model in 2022 with the SLGH017 “Night Birch” – a darkened version of the “White Birch” model in a hi-intensity titanium case. This watch intrigued me with its case material, dial aesthetic and its movement, and we decided to pick this for review to see if this model holds up a few years after its release.

In terms of aesthetics, this watch follows the aforementioned Evolution 9 design cues, a watch designed with an “impressive look” in mind, according to Grand Seiko watch designer Kiyotaka Sakai. Firstly, the dial design included a thicker hour hand, and a longer minute hand to increase legibility. The minutes and seconds hands are also bent downwards towards the chapter ring to reduce parallax error, thereby increasing the legibility of the time. In addition to this, the 12 o’clock index in most Grand Seiko watches is two times the width of the other indexes, but with the Evolution 9 design having “impressiveness” in mind, the index was designed to be 2.5 times the width of a normal index, giving the 12 o’clock marker more presence, and making it easier to read the time. 

The Night Birch SLGH017 further iterates on this with a textured dial that is inspired by the birch forests of the Hiraniwa Plateau located near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi where the watch is manufactured. It is a scene of the forest at night, with the dial being stamped seven times to achieve the desired texture, and multiple coating layers are required to achieve the colouring of the dial. In different lighting conditions, the texture of the dial goes from black to shades of grey, creating a dynamic look for the watch. In addition to this, the diamond-cut hour markers reflect light in even low light conditions, making luminescent paint for the hands and markers almost redundant. As a final touch, the date window at 3 o’clock has a colour matching date wheel, making the watch incredibly coherent across its functions and design.

The case is another key element of the Evolution 9 design, with a balance between the hairline finished and polished finished surfaces an essential consideration to create a serene look. By placing the hairline finishes on the top surfaces of the bezel, lugs and the sides of the watch, and mirrored, Zaratsu polished surfaces on the edges of those components, the edges are able to stand out and possess a sharp, precise look that is still understated and refined. With the arrival of a new movement bearing a slim profile, the opportunity presented itself to design the ideal case shape and profile to house the new movement. A case design with a steep vertical side, a gentle curve of the case middle and attenuated tips of the lug created a firm yet light presence. A point was also made to lower the centre of gravity of the watch, which works in tandem with the slimmer movement, enabling a thinner caseback – this in combination with a wider lug width enables a better stance of the watch on the wrist. With these design features, the Night Birch takes all of these and applies this to a hi-intensity titanium case, applying the lower centre of gravity design to an ultra light titanium case. This creates an effect on the wrist that is quite unique – one where the watch almost disappears on the wrist, and only re-emerges when you are looking for the time or date. The bracelet design is also a source of intrigue, with its wide stance and dimensions. Some may take issue with the 22mm lug width, but like the modified and stanced cars as seen in the car scene, the wide stance enables an air of stability, creating a sense of comfort on the wrist. The interplay of light across the watch case is also evident, and even in titanium, these finishes hold true. In particular, the top of the bezel being brushed accentuates the stable and slim design.

Tying all of these design elements together is the Calibre 9SA5, which has three key design features that give the Evolution 9 watches an edge in performance, as well as giving the watches their signature designs. Firstly, the Dual Impulse Escapement enables a long power reserve of 80 hours thanks to its efficient design that delivers mainspring energy directly to the balance wheel. MEMS (Micro Electromechanical Systems) manufacturing technology also enables the escapement components to be light, which also increases efficiency in the movement. In contrast to other movements in the Grand Seiko collections, the 9SA5 incorporates a free-sprung balance wheel – free of the indexed balance, the movement has a higher resistance to shock and positional changes. To top it all off, the movement is designed with a special horizontal gear train with 4 wheels instead of three in the going train that decreases the energy load in the movement, which also enables a slimmer construction. The Night Birch is a watch that is weekend-proof – take it off on Friday, and pick it up on Monday, ready for another week of wear. For those who have not experienced a Hi-Beat movement, putting this watch to your ear gives a sound that is precise, yet not as frantic as you would expect. Performance-wise, on casual observation, the watch is holding to around +3 seconds per day – well within the Grand Seiko standard. All of these aspects make the watch incredibly easy to work with, and makes it a great everyday watch, with the movement aiding its slimness, and its chronometric performance. 

I was not expecting the Grand Seiko SLGH017 “Night Birch” to be this good. There were a number of features that I thought of as compelling (its movement, and its slimness), however, I really needed to experience these in the metal for me to really come around. Dials and cases are all well and good in renderings, but to really have the true Grand Seiko experience, the visual experience has to be done in person, and its fit and finish are truly exceptional for its price point. Whilst the 22mm lug width has been widely criticised, I feel that they are unwarranted, and they give the watch a balanced look, whilst giving the watch stability – this may be due to the titanium construction, given its lightness, however, I would also make the guess that in stainless steel, this balanced feel will be accentuated. The watch is also incredibly great to live with – paired with businesswear, or casual jeans and a t-shirt, the watch truly disappears on the wrist, and only reappears once you are searching for it. The only gripe I would have about this watch is the bracelet – I’m not a fan of how the bracelet has no micro-adjustment for an even better fit on the wrist, as well as it being fastened by pins and sleeves – I would have expected screws in a watch of this level, but I’m happy to be proven wrong. Having said this about the bracelet, what I am a fan of is the all brushed finishing, no brushed centre links to worry about!

Overall, the Grand Seiko SLGH017 “Night Birch” is a watch worthy of your consideration if you are in the market for something from Grand Seiko, but with a little bit of a twist. The materials and design make it easy to live with, whilst the movement has been designed to have great performance over time. Grand Seiko set out with the Evolution 9 Series to make a watch that is even more accurate, legible, durable and beautiful than ever, and I believe that they have achieved that with the new collection. The Night Birch takes it even further with a feather-light case and bracelet, with a handsome black dial that will be pride of place on your wrist for years to come.

Technical Specifications

Exterior

Movement

Functions

Originally an initiative started by prominent brands located within the Fleurier area of Switzerland, following the withdrawal of those brands from the Fondation Qualite Fleurier, Chopard remains the sole custodian of the foundation since 2022, and continues to issue Qualite Fleurier certifications according to the strict criteria outlined by the founders to this day. Five key criteria govern the Qualite Fleurier:

• 100% Swiss Made – The entirety of the watch head must be constructed in Switzerland, which includes the manufacturing of movement blanks, PVD/Coating processes, jewel setting and prototyping.
• Quality of Finish – Finishing and decoration of the watch must be rigorous and applied to Haute Horlogerie standards – processes such as anglage and polishing must be applied to shaped parts, and if possible, must have drawn lines on the component (brushed finishing).
• Chronometry (COSC Certification) – All watches undergoing the Qualite Fleurier certification must also pass COSC certification for timekeeping.
• Chronofiable Test – A test of simulated ageing on the watch, a set number of watches are pulled from production to test elements such as pusher activation, crown push and pull actions, magnetic field, shock and water resistance.
• Fleuritest Precision – The final watch is put through a 24 hour testing cycle that simulates daily wear. The watch must fall within 0 to +5 seconds per day through this test.

Passing all of these five areas qualifies a watch to be Qualite Fleurier certified. 

The first Qualite Fleurier watch from Chopard to be housed within a 39mm Lucent Steel case (a material exclusive to Chopard that is made of recycled steel), the watch presents in a classical manner with a silver sector-style dial with hour markers and a small seconds indicator at 6 o’clock. With a slimness of 8.92mm, the watch is firmly styled as a dress watch, which is further reinforced by its lug design – similar to that of watches from the 50s and 60s. The watch is delivered on a calf leather strap with vintage style stitching details, and on a L.U.C stainless steel pin buckle.

The magic of this watch is located on the rear, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. The calibre L.U.C 96.09-L is housed within this watch, with a 22k gold micro-rotor providing the winding power of the watch. Chronometer certified by the COSC, and lavishly finished, the movement adheres to the standards set out by the Fondation Qualite Fleurier for this watch. The entire completed watch is tested to this standard, making it one of the most rigorously tested dress watches on the market.

Whilst all of these features and certifications are remarkable in of themselves, the fact that they are all brought together in one watch is certainly a feat worthy of more praise. Furthermore, Chopard’s use of Lucent Steel, a material that comprises 80% recycled steel, is brighter and is more scratch resistant than virgin stainless steel further reinforces Chopard’s commitment to sustainability in their watchmaking practices. The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier is further proof that Chopard is quietly raising the standards of watchmaking through the use of sustainable materials, and continuously refining their production processes.

Technical Specifications:

Case

Metal: stainless steel

Thickness: 8.92 mm

Dial: Silver brass-based dial, sunburst satin-brushed finish in the center and circular satin finish on the chapter ring

Caseback: see-through sapphire crystal

Crown Material: stainless steel

Movement

Movement: L.U.C 96.09-L

Type of Winding: self-winding mechanical movement

Function: small seconds, hours and minutes

Power Reserve: Power Reserve of approximately 65 hours, L.U.C Twin Technology (two stacked barrels)

Certification(s): Fleurier Quality Foundation certificate

Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour)

Movement Dimensions: Ø 27.40 mm

Movement Thickness: 3.30 mm

Number of Movement Parts: 172

Jewels: 29

Strap & Buckle

Buckle Type: pin buckle

Buckle Material: stainless steelStrap: brown calfskin (matt)

A natural fit for Bell & Ross, ceramics were introduced into the watchmaking industry in the 1980s, and is a perfect material for the brand – being used in aerospace applications such as rocket nose cones and heat shields for spacecraft. Bell & Ross first utilised ceramic in their flagship BR01 watch in 2011, and now, their more urban BR05 reflects the brand’s acute attention to the ceramics manufacturing processes. Three new BR05 models join the collection with a ceramic case and ceramic bracelet options that reflect the slick new direction of these aviation inspired urban pieces.

Two of the three models will become permanent members of the collection, and the third will be a 500 piece limited edition. The BR05 Black Ceramic features the brand’s signature cockpit clock design, with a sunburst finish, and the date at 3 o’clock, whilst the BR05 Skeleton Black Ceramic features a skeletonised dial and a cleaner layout that omits the date window. As an option, the models are also available on a black rubber strap and a folding buckle. The styling is contemporary, yet has a touch of retro blended into it with the 70s style integrated bracelet and strap design. Measuring in at 41mm in diameter, the watch maintains a powerful presence on the wrist whilst managing to not feel oversized. These two models also manage to play with finishes, with a refined mix of brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet.

The limited edition BR05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, limited to 500 pieces worldwide, is finished in a stealthy matte ceramic case and bracelet, with a skeletonised dial and green hour markers and hands. In particular, the green markers and hands on the dial are filled with C5 SuperLuminova, which gives an almost ethereal green glow to the dial, as well as providing much needed contrast to the matte black case. This model only has the bracelet option available to it, but in our eyes, we would have it no other way.

All watches come with a screw-in crown and 100m water resistance for the ultimate in everyday usability.

Powering the BR05 Black Ceramic is the BR321-1 Automatic movement – a Sellita based movement, with date, and 54 hours of power reserve. The BR05 Skeleton Black Ceramic and Black Lum Ceramic are powered by the BR322-1 which is a skeletonised version of the Sellita movement made to Bell & Ross specifications – this too has a power reserve of 54 hours.

Bell & Ross has continuously and successfully reinvented themselves in their collections, whilst also remaining true to their cockpit instrument design – this has enabled them to have longevity amongst watch enthusiasts, and longevity in their designs. The BR05 series represents an evolution in this design, and firmly sets it into the world of streetwear and contemporary fashion, whilst maintaining the key DNA that Bell & Ross have been known for over the past decade. A strong complement to the current collection, the three models unveiled at Watches and Wonders are sure to surprise and delight their owners with the smart details and bold design.

Tool watches were created for maximum utility in the most adverse of conditions, specifically to be legible in low light and murky conditions. In the past, illumination on the dial meant a radioactive material such as radium or tritium was used to excite phosphorescent paint to give off light in the darkness, effectively making these self-powered. However, these substances are inherently toxic and in the late 80s to mid 90s saw the watch industry move to a material known as SuperLuminova to illuminate watch dials. This however, comes with a tradeoff, in that the watch has to be charged by an external light source (the sun, or a bright torch for example) before it begins to self-illuminate. So what if a watch could self-illuminate without the need for external light sources or toxic materials? The new Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID is the watch that answers that conundrum, all through the use of mechanical watchmaking principles.

The Elux name is not a foreign name to Panerai – in the mid 1960s, Panerai supplied Elux panels to the Italian Navy, which were lighting panels in a manner of different shapes, sizes and materials that were powered electrically. Made to be durable, shock and vibration resistant, as well as energy efficient, they were primarily used in command centres, internal signalling boards and helipads on Italian naval ships. 

LAB-ID pieces from Panerai have also been some of the most bonkers (for lack of a better word) pieces in the watch world, being an incubator that pushes the boundaries of the watch industry. Some of the most notable pieces include a Luminor model that featured a 50 year warranty thanks to its lubrication free construction, as well as the eLAB-ID PAM1225 which was constructed out of 99% recycled materials, and was very open in naming its partners to achieve its goals.

The new Panerai Submersible LAB-ID Elux is the product of eight years of research and development that starts off with a 49mm diameter, 500m Submersible case made out of Ti-Ceramitech, a ceramized titanium case which features a ceramic coating layer on top of titanium. It’s blue hue is achieved through Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation, which also provides the case with its distinctive toughness in comparison to traditional ceramic, as well as being 44% lighter than stainless steel. Its black dial features the signature Panerai bar-and-dot dial for legibility, and is accompanied by a unidirectional rotating bezel to calculate immersion time. 

The most curious part of the watch is of course its functionality, which is where the watch is ingeniously engineered. On the left hand side of the watch is the Elux pusher, with a pusher-guard – lift the pusher-guard and press the button to activate the lighting system, which illuminates not only the hour markers, but the hands and the bezel pip as well. This proved to be a challenge for the Panerai team, and the method of illuminating the hands is patent protected, and illuminating the bezel pip has a patent pending, demonstrating the difficulty in electronically illuminating moving elements, whilst maintaining water resistance.

This illumination is achieved through the movement containing 6 barrels within its construction – 4 dedicated to powering the lighting system, and 2 barrels for traditional watch mechanics. These 4 barrels then power a micro-generator with coils, magnets and a stator through a high-speed rotor (rotating at 80 revolutions per second that develops the change in magnetic field to generate the electric current for the lighting system. This guarantees lighting for up to 30 minutes, which is also indicated by the linear power reserve aperture on the dial (labelled “Power Light). The remaining 2 barrels power the P.9010/EL movement, providing power for 3 days. The watch is further accented by SuperLuminova X2 on the indices and hands to further highlight luminescent vibrancy.

The Panerai Submersible LAB-ID Elux is limited to 150 pieces, with an availability of 50 pieces over 3 years. It is a watch that, in a time of change in the watch world, is a piece that still demonstrates the ingenuity and sheer madness of the laboratories within the industry. Only the most curious would consider a piece like this, however, it is this curiosity that drives Panerai to push the boundaries of what is possible in the world of mechanical watchmaking.

Technical Specifications: Panerai PAM01800

Movement: Automatic mechanical, P.9010/EL caliber,
13 3/4 lignes, 10.80mm thick, 55 jewels, Glucydur® balance- wheel stop, 28,800 vibrations/hour, Incabloc® anti-shock device, 6 barrels: 4 dedicated to lighting, 2 dedicated to time indication, 363 components.

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Power Light function, Linear Power light reserve indicator, calculation of immersion time, stop-seconds for precise time setting.

Power Reserve: 3 days for time indication. 30 minutes for on demand Power Light Function.

Case: Diameter 49mm, Blue Ti-CeramitechTM case.
Blue Ti-CeramitechTM bezel. Screw Ti-CeramitechTM case-back. Sapphire crystal. Patented pusher protection system.

Strap: Blue rubber bracelet, STD, 26/22 Trapezoidal Titanium pin buckle.

Water resistance: 50 bar (~500 meters).

Two models were unveiled at the fair – a dressy Petite Seconde model with an interestingly designed movement, as well as a Chronograph Rattrapante model, limited to 30 pieces worldwide, which ignited discussion amongst lovers of traditional dress watches. These two models, under the guidance of CEO Guido Terrini have also reignited the fervour for Parmigiani Fleurier, bringing the brand back to its roots with the Toric, and yet, it is a completely different entity to the model originally introduced in 1996.

A watch enthusiast’s dream, the Toric Petite Seconde distils everything you want in a watch – hours, minutes, seconds and a manually wound movement, but all of these elements are executed at a height expected of a haute-horlogerie manufacture. The model takes its design inspiration from the original Toric model unveiled in 1996, which is inspired by the Doric columns of ancient Greek architecture. However, the 2024 version takes the original knurled bezel design (which is ageing like a fine wine, by the way), and modernises it – widening the dial opening, but also combining this with a softer rounded case and a textured dial with a hours track that slopes downwards, in a cheve style, that is reminiscent of old watches where a difference in level is evident towards the hour markers.

The dial is also matte finished in a process that Michel Parmigiani perfected whilst restoring old watches – on a gold dial base, a special paste of cream of tartar, crushed sea salt and silver mixed with demineralised water is used with special brushes to polish the surface of the dial, which creates a soft-looking surface that disperses light (called grene in French). Further adding to its minimalist appeal, the new-style logo with the PF initials and the short hour markers clean up the dial significantly, and is accentuated by the nubuck alligator leather straps with “punto a mano” stitching used by the best Neapolitan tailors. The cases on offer are in 18 carat rose gold or 950 platinum – sumptuous materials for a dress watch.

Powering these modern dress pieces is the PF780 movement – a movement that is lavishly manufactured and constructed. Hewn from 18 carat rose gold are its bridges, which are decorated with “Cotes de Fleurier”, a pattern that gives the impression of a chequerboard, which contrasts against the sandblasted finishing of the mainplate. The only components that are visible are the dual barrels and the escapement system – the going train amongst others is hidden by the rose gold bridges, which gives a tactile sense of the watch when it is being wound, and life is being breathed into the watch. The movement is well finished with its hand-bevelled steel bridges for the balance wheel and the barrels, and aside from the possibility of the inclusion of more internal angles, the rear-side of the Toric Petite Seconde is a visual feast, even more so when viewed from the rear of the platinum cased model. The movement features a 60 hour power reserve, and beats at a modern 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz).

Amazingly, the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante manages to make a complicated watch appear simple, with it’s liberal use of negative space on the dial, as well as the cheve style dial with its shortened hour markers, and minute markings close to the edge of the dial. The codes of the modernised Petite Seconde model are all here, with its singular knurled bezel, widened dial opening and its softer rounded case. However, in this model, a warm “Natural Umber” coloured dial provides this watch with its soft hue – neither overpowering, nor too subtle, the watch embodies the quiet luxury look that has been pervasive amongst fashion of late. The Toric Chronograph Rattrapante uses 18 carat gold markers and hands, with a rhodium plated rattrapante hand to make it easier to distinguish one event from another. The clean design of the watch is further accentuated by its rattrapante pusher that is integrated into the crown.

Limited to 30 pieces worldwide, the watch is powered by the PF361 movement – a manually-wound rattrapante chronograph that is skeletonised on the movement side, giving a view of the two column wheels, split-seconds mechanism, chronograph levers and the barrel. As befitting a watch that is reportedly harder to produce than a tourbillon due to the level of adjustment required to make a rattrapante watch operational, the plates and bridges of the watch are crafted of 18 carat rose gold, and feature sharp internal angles in its chamfering. The movement plays a bit of hide and seek with its components, however, this adds to its visual appeal. The movement beats at an unusual 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) – not commonly seen in haute-horlogerie chronograph movements, and has a power reserve of 65 hours.

Compared to Toric models of old, which have now appeared to age as a exercise in baroque luxury, the new Toric Petite Seconde and Chronograph Rattrapante retain design cues of yesteryears, but inject a modern minimalism that the watches so sorely needed to be considered by today’s collectors. By and large, Parmigiani Fleurier has achieved this and so much more – the brand received much praise from the community for these releases, from an aesthetic perspective as well as a watchmaking perspective. In this case, it appears that aesthetics are in service of the watchmaking, with the harmony of movement and design being the key factor in its critical reception. The direction that Parmigiani Fleurier is taking for its newest models is certainly a sign for things to come, and that the brand is refocusing its efforts in having aesthetic and engineering working in tandem with one another.

Technical Specifications

Toric Petite Seconde

DIAL SPECIFICATIONS

Material: 18ct rose gold or 950 platinum
Color: Grey Celadon (Platinum model)  or Sand Gold (18k Rose Gold model)
Finishing: hand-grained
Indexes: hand-applied 18ct gold rhodium-plated appliques

HANDS

Hours and minutes: 18ct gold rhodium-plated Small seconds: steel rhodium-plated

STRAP

Sand Gold (Platinum model) or Grey Celadon (18k Rose Gold model) hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather Closure: platinum 950 pin buckle

CASE SPECIFICATIONS

Polished platinum 950 with knurled bezel Diameter: 40.6 mm
Thickness: 8.8 mm
Crown: Ø 6 mm

Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Case back: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Engraving on case back: serial number – “PARMIGIANI FLEURIER”
Water resistance: 30 m 

MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS

PF780 – Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18 ct Rose Gold with small seconds
Power reserve: 60 hours

Frequency: 28,800 Vph (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
No. of components: 157
Overall diameter total: 28.4 mm
Thickness: 3.15 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Fleurier, hand-bevelled steel bridges 

Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

DIAL SPECIFICATIONS

Color: Natural Umber
Material: 18ct rose gold
Finishing: hand-grained
Indexes: hand-applied 18ct rose gold appliques

CASE SPECIFICATIONS

Polished 18ct rose gold with knurled bezel Diameter: 42.5 mm
Thickness: 14.4 mm
Crown: Ø 7.2 mm

Glass: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Case back: ARunic anti-reflective sapphire Engraving on case back: serial number – “Edition limitée X/30” –

“PARMIGIANI FLEURIER” – “36’000 Alt/h” Water resistance: 30 m 

MOVEMENT SPECIFICATIONS

PF361 – Manual Winding Manufacture Movement in 18 ct Rose Gold with integrated split seconds chronograph 

Power reserve: 65 hours
Frequency: 36,000 Vph (5 Hz)
Jewels: 35
No. of components: 285
Overall diameter: 30.6 mm
Thickness: 7.35 mm
Decoration: satin-finished open worked bridges, hand-bevelled bridges 

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, small seconds, split seconds chronograph

HANDS

Hours and minutes: 18ct rose gold Chronograph and small seconds: steel, rhodium or rose gold-plated

BRACELET

Sand gold hand-stitched nubuck alligator leather
Closure: 18ct rose gold pin buckle 

At the fairs in Geneva this year, it could be said that the industry went all sensible on us – classic designs, perennial favourite colours, and modest sizes that would not look out of place in an enthusiast’s collection in years, or even decades to come. However, a few brands clearly exhibited that their brand still has that spark of untamed desire to push the boundaries of what the watchmaking industry is capable of – the horological equivalent of Faster, Higher, Stronger. In many respects, Bulgari came to Geneva with a watch that made waves in the community, and answered the question of whether they could go thinner and be as precise as a chronometer. In 2024, Bulgari unveiled the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, a declaration that they now have the thinnest mechanical watch, as well as the thinnest COSC certified chronometer.

Following on from the Octo Finissimo Ultra in 2022, the development of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC in 2024 is akin to Formula 1 drivers shaving off milliseconds of their lap times, where every fraction of a second is a monumental effort. With this watch, the research and development team at Bulgari, along with their partners Concepto (who have considerable expertise in complex mechanisms), set out to surpass what they have achieved as the thinnest mechanical watch. 

Firstly, the watch has to maximise the use of the available space, and so to bring down the watch to a record-breaking 1.75mm, the watch case becomes the mainplate of the movement itself. A base of hard tungsten carbide is used for this base, upon which the 170 components of the BVL180 calibre are assembled. These components are individually selected through an optical scanning process, with tolerances of 1/10th of a micron, showing how rigorous the manufacturing process has to be in order for even the components to be utilised in the construction of this watch. The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC also features a reworked sapphire crystal to help achieve that significant thinness. 

Our intrepid Editor-at-large, Gerald Chew spoke with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani about the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC – Buonamassa mentions that the development of the original Octo Finissimo Ultra left a bit of margin in terms of size to incorporate future dial designs, however, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was a push to see how far the team could go. It was also determined that through the development of its predecessor, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was already precise enough to be submitted to the chronometer testing cycles, and so they asked “why not?”. The Bulgari team decided that chronometer certification on its own is something that many brands can achieve, but with the type of watchmaking that the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC represents, it was important that its precision and stability was officially recognised. Thus, all 20 watches of this limited edition undergo this testing, and unlike most chronometer certified watches, the entire Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC has to go through the testing, as movement and case are one and the same.

Aesthetically, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is a watch that carries a strong visual impact with its partially skeletonised movement, and its layout. The large barrel can be seen at 10/11 o’clock, with hours and minutes separated into individual subdials at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively. The ultra-flat balance wheel can also be seen oscillating at 7 o’clock, completing a dial that has an organic feel. In comparison to its predecessor, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC does not feature a QR code in the barrel ratchet wheel, but instead moves that to the rear of the watch, with that Bulgari has called the Datamatrix – containing a repository of photos and images that bring you on the journey of how the watch was born.

The watch itself is wound and adjusted through two crowns on the rear of the watch, and is supplied with a special box that is able to wind and set the watch to the correct time – all of which is automated through a digital display that will deliver the watch perfectly set and ready to go for the day.

In an industry filled with superlatives, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC truly is a physical embodiment of one – the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, as well as being certified as one of the most precise timekeepers in the watch industry. An achievement that truly pushes the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking, Bulgari has certainly reignited the conversation around this topic, with enthusiasts asking – what will the brand do next in their string of world records?

Technical Specifications

Movement

BVL 180 manufacture manual winding mechanical ultra-thin movement with regulator display.

COSC-certified movement; thickness: 1.50 mm; power reserve: 50-hour; frequency: 28’800 VpH (4Hz).

Case, Dial and Bracelet

A 40 mm case (1.70 mm thick) with sandblasted titanium lugs, bezel and middle case; tungsten carbide main plate; winding and time-setting wheels in satin-finish steel; ratchet in sandblasted steel engraved with writing and a geometric decoration.

Hour and minute regulator display counters in sandblasted brass with grey PVD coating, polished brass hands with rhodium coating and white indexes, satin-finish steel second wheel with black index indicator.

Sandblasted titanium bracelet with fully integrated folding buckle, 1.50 mm thin

ISOCHRONO: Ciao Fabrizio, looking impeccably turned out as usual. Would you take us through the novelties of Bulgari watches for 2024?

Fabrizio Bournamassa (FB):

So we have the Tubogas, which we collaborated on with Tadao Ando;  and we have the fantastic Octo Finissimo Ultra, in which we have the world record for thinness (1.70mm thin) which is also, notably this time, COSC certified. The watch is also in a version made in platinum, which was the first Ultra that we presented two years ago. For this latest version, the development process was very hard because we completely redesigned the watch from scratch due to the change in material from platinum to titanium.

We spent one year and a half to create the bracelet, more or less the same time we used to create the movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra that is up to COSC certification standards. It was more or less two years, all in all to develop. 

ISOCHRONO: What was the reason why you decided to make an COSC Certified Ultra?

We had a little bit of margin when we produced the first Octo Finissimo Ultra which was very successful. So at the time, we were satisfied. After six months though, we decided that we wanted to maximize the small margin we had to further develop the watch to see how far we could go. 

Due to the fact that  COSC certification demands that every single movement is tested, we were obligated to test every single watch because as you know,  with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, it is not possible to separate the movement from the case due to the unique design of having the movement components on the movement plate itself, which is also effectively the case of the watch. 

ISOCHRONO: Can you clarify what you mean by ‘margin’? 

FB: Yeah, margin means that we had at the time, we had a little bit of room in and around the case.

So the idea at first was to be satisfied and to say enough because we are already unique.   But we realized that we could make the watch even thinner. We had initially left the margin because we had some ideas, for example, that we could make the watch with other dials, or to have different finishing possibilities.  

So on the Octo Finissimo Ultra each component is extreme in terms of thinness. However we wanted it to be a safe watch that you can wear every day. But the origin of the idea is saying, “guys, if you want to change the material, if you want to have another kind of dial, please leave us some millimeters in the case to play with these kind of elements.”

ISOCHRONO: Is the Ultra and the Ultra COSC materially the same watch? 

FB: It is essentially same watch but with slightly different thickness due to the difference in material used 

ISOCHRONO: What’s the difference in material?

The case of the Ultra COSC is titanium, whereas the case of the second Ultra is in platinum. The platinum version at 1.8mm is thicker than the COSC version at 1.7mm. Take note that for both, the movements in these watches are only 1.5mm thick. 

So today we already have three different Octo Finissimo Ultra. We have the first one with the QR code made in tungsten carbide and titanium. Secondly we have the Ultra COSC that is thinner than the titanium one – the same material, titanium and tungsten carbide but thinner (1.7mm). Thirdly we have the platinum one which is the thickest (1.8mm) due to the use of platinum.

Do you know how heavy the platinum version is? 200 grams, which is pretty heavy, because the bracelet is made of platinum too, with the exception of the buckle, which is in titanium, due to the fact that we need a certain rigidity for the buckle. The bracelet is in platinum, the case is in platinum, the central part of the case is in tungsten carbide and the bezel is in platinum.

ISOCHRONO: What did you have to do to achieve the COSC certification?

Honestly, this is a technical question. We have to check with the product development director to get specific on this. However, as I remember, this was not a big achievement for us honestly. We never considered that COSC certification for the Octo Finissimo was a priority. 

When I joined the company more than 20 years ago, a lot of sports watches on the market had COSC certification as a standard feature. At the time, it seemed that every single brand was offering this for their watches. From our point of view, it was something that was not interesting anymore for the client. 

However, with the kind of watchmaking that the Ultra represents, we felt that, if it had COSC certification, it would mean that the watch is not only the thinnest on the market, but it’s also one with the most precise and stable movement. 

So I discussed it yesterday with friends of mine and they said, “Yes, Fabrizio, the watch is beautiful, but the COSC certification is something that nobody would expect.” Nobody can imagine this kind of movement in such a slim watch. In addition I have to mention: the packaging is something special.

Each watch is going to have the COSC certificate in the packaging. When you leave the watch to rest, you put it inside the packaging, you close the packaging, there is a camera to read the time. If it’s not correct, there is a mechanism in the packaging to set the time and charge the barrel. The watch can also be wound via a crown on the underside of the case.

ISOCHRONO: Incredible! Tell us about the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton.

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is a new execution with different colors, different materials, but the movement is the same as the previous version. Yes, it’s just a different execution with a movement that we already have. There are three executions:  two hand wound 42mm versions in DLC-Coated titanium or 18K rose gold, at just 4.85mm thick with 52 hours power reserve. Another version is the automatic DLC model with platinum case, thickness of 4.95mm. 

We also presented the Octo Finissimo Sketch celebrating Bulgari’s 140th anniversary, bringing a hand drawn version of the movement and representing it on the dial. Available in 40mm time only in steel and in 18K rose gold. It also comes in  a 43mm chronograph GMT steel edition. 

Each time for us, it’s important to have different materials; to keep working on materials and execution. For sure, in our pipeline, we even have new movements for Octo. We have very important developments on the Octo. We have different materials etc. We are working very, very hard on the Octo Finissimo platform. In the near future, you will have a lot of surprises. Very, very interesting surprises!

ISOCHRONO:You like Japan a lot, I believe. So Tadao Ando has done a lot with Bulgari. Tell us about this collaboration. 

FB: We met each other the first time when working on the special edition Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando. This time Tadao had the idea to work with Bulgari on the theme of nature. He came to us with a very wide brief, with no specific idea about what the watch would be yet. 

At the beginning we started with a certain watch and after a while we were not happy with the progress.

So we decided to go ahead with the Serpenti Tubogas because it’s the most natural watch for this idea. The idea of Tadao was to celebrate nature through the four seasons.

So we started to discuss that internally. The Serpenti Tubogas is the most iconic watch that we have, and its interesting that we have never made a collaboration with our ladies’ watches before. 

The idea of Tadao was to talk about the seasons and the seasons’ colors. Bulgari is the master of color gemstones.

But it was not so easy to find the real connection between Bulgari, Serpenti, nature and Tadao Ando. The previous projects were more dedicated to the aesthetic of Tadao Ando. His Octo looks like a small piece of architecture with the same kind of aesthetics that you find on a concrete building, made by Tadao. 

On this watch, the concept, the idea, was more philosophical.

So at a certain moment, I start to think about this: that we make the dial with artistic stones, which are a natural element in essence.

When we buy a part of a stone, to make a dial, we can use just a portion of the stone. We are obliged to cut the original stone many, many times to create the dial. So I started to think, that is a natural element that we threw out; and this is not something that makes sense. In this project, we talk about nature. So the idea that we don’t want to throw out any natural elements was very interesting for Tadao.

The idea was that in this way, we can play with, say, the history of Italian mosaics – Florentine mosaics made with art stones and marble, for example. And adding something very close to the Kintsugi technique in Japan (the art of putting together broken pottery pieces with gold – a metaphor for embracing flaws and imperfections). The remade object, it’s even more precious than when it was new. 

So I say, guys, it looks like an Italian mosaic as a design motif. We are talking about natural gemstones. Tadao wants to talk about nature, so we don’t want to throw out this part of the natural gem. We have to put this concept all together and we have to make a dial. 

The problem of this particular watch is that the dial is curved, not flat. So we can only accept a certain dimension because otherwise the dial may become crazy and it’s makes no sense with many big and small pieces together, and we can only accept a certain range of colours because otherwise, again, it looks like a Harlequin.

It was not so easy to find the right stones. The green aventurine was the most difficult one because it contains a lot of straight lines going in a thousand directions. In the end, you don’t have the perception of a green forest. So we moved to natural green aventurine.

The most beautiful one for me is the “aki” with the tiger eye that looks like a leaf on the (autumn) floor. It was obvious to choose the mother of birth (What) for the winter season. For spring, it is mother of pearl with shades of pink like cherry blossoms blooming. 

ISOCHRONO: So you had to be very selective about choosing the right stones because of the natural flow (inherent qualities) of the stones. 

Yeah, exactly. As you can see, each dial has different compositions of stone fragments that make up each dial. The colors and shades of stones vary, making each dial unique and individual.

I don’t remember how many trials there were about the different shades. Today we are very happy about this collection. Four limited editions. Summer (natsu): two tone yellow gold and steel bracelet and case with green aventurine dial. Autumn (aki): rose gold case and bracelet with tiger’s eye dial. Winter (fuyu): steel case and bracelet with white mother of pearl dial. Spring (haru): two tone rose gold and steel case and bracelet with pink mother of pearl dial. 

Tadao was always in touch and connected to each aspect of this project – hard as it is to reach him because he travels so much and is very busy – so he is very happy to have his influence on the manufacture, the design, and even the packaging for this watch. 

Thank you for your time and for sharing your ideas and inspirations creating this year’s watches!

Ultra thin watchmaking can be considered by connoisseurs as an underrated achievement for brands, as a complication can be described by what the watch displays other than telling the time – which apparently presents nothing novel to many casual observers. However, to make a watch as thin as possible, numerous tolerances are broken, and advances in materials science have to be made in order to make it not only functional, but wearable as well. In this space, Piaget have made significant in-roads to make some of the thinnest watches in production today, and have continued to do so since 1957. 

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept began its life in 2018 as its namesake suggests – a concept watch, demonstrating novel construction techniques to achieve a thinness of 2mm. The case itself is used to mount the components of the watch, as demonstrated in the 910P. This essentially removes 3 parts from the watch, the caseback, the mainplate of the movement and the case itself. An innovative cobalt alloy is also used as the case and mainplate of the watch due to its rigidity (precious metals proved much too malleable to be used in an endeavour such as this).

The new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon retains its predecessor’s thinness of 2mm but, as its name suggests, incorporates a tourbillon within its construction – specifically, the flying tourbillon.

In order to achieve this feat, around 90% of the components of the original Altiplano Ultimate Concept had to be redesigned to fit the flying tourbillon into the case – in particular, the tourbillon cage fits into a height of 1.49mm, and is set into the case through a ball bearing system made of titanium and steel.

There was now the problem of power consumption – tourbillons generally consume about 25% more power than a watch with a traditional regulator. The engineers and watchmakers at Piaget devised a two-pronged solution through the mainspring and the pivots of the wheels – the mainspring was devised to be thicker in some areas to generate more power, whilst the pivots do not use traditional jewels, but ball bearings, which reduces friction and increases efficiency. Whilst the wheels are decorated, great care must be taken to ensure that these operations do not deform the part – working to a tolerance of 2 microns is an extreme challenge not to damage anything during the decoration of the parts. 

Like its predecessor, the watch case (and indeed the mainplate of the movement) is made of a cobalt alloy for its strength – in the case of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, it is treated with a deep blue colour. The crown is integrated into the case, and is manipulated through the use of a special stylus that has a gear reduction and torque control system built into it, which protects one of the more vulnerable parts of an ultra-thin watch like this. 

As thin a coin, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is a testament to the extremes that the watch industry is able to achieve. Truly living up to the Piaget motto, this watch has definitively done better by incorporating the movement of the tourbillon into this watch. What seems like a simple endeavour is actually one of the most complex in terms of the overall manufacturing challenges encountered by Piaget. Working at tolerances of up to 2 microns, this watch has pushed the boundaries of what the factory is capable of, and what others should be aspiring to.

Technical Specifications

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Ref. G0A4951

Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 2 mm
Material: Cobalt alloy
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Manual winding, in-set crown in case
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon cage 
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Calf leather