The Fifty Fathoms

Many watch enthusiasts will rejoice that the Fifty Fathoms will be getting its time in the sun, and for good reason. It is amongst one of the world’s first modern dive watches, and has a storied history being issued to numerous Navies and accompanying fearless operators on their missions. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms would be issued to the French Combat Swimmers, who, under the guidance of Captain Robert Maloubier, would work with Blancpain to incorporate their feedback into a watch that matched their stringent requirements. It was also worn by famed director and explorer Jacques Cousteau when he was directing his underwater film, The Silent World. The combination of its technical capabilities, paired with its stories of adventure and action give the Fifty Fathoms its unimpeachable rugged appeal, and makes it a perfect watch to collaborate with Swatch on.

Blancpain x Swatch

As seen in the MoonSwatch, the Blancpain x Swatch collaboration aims to capture the essence of both brands and distill it into its own capsule collection.

All of the models measure in at a wearable 42.3mm case diameter, with a uni-directional rotating bezel – a standard feature for dive watches. Honouring the seafaring heritage of the Fifty Fathoms, there are 5 models that celebrate the 5 oceans – Antarctic, Atlantic, Arctic, Indian and Pacific Oceans, each of which features its own unique coloured Bioceramic case (which in of itself is an eco-friendly material that is two-thirds ceramic and one-third biomaterials derived from castor oil). 

Each of these watches also incorporates design elements from Fifty Fathoms watches past and present. In particular, the Arctic and Antarctic models take inspiration from the famed “No-Rads” and “Mil-Spec” watches respectively.

Both of these models feature a vintage-style Blancpain logo, akin to what you would find on the vintage models, and each of these has a distinctive addition at the 6 o’clock position on the dial – the Arctic with its No Rads logo, honouring the early models that did not use Radium in the luminescent material of the hour markers, and the Antarctic model incorporating a moisture indicator like the Mil-Spec models, that tell the wearer that moisture has entered the watch.

By contrast, the Atlantic (Blue), Indian (Green) and Pacific (Yellow) Ocean models take their inspiration from the modern Fifty Fathoms watches, incorporating the modern dial 3/6/9 dial design, and the date at 4:30. Each of these watches are water resistant to 91 metres, which is around Fifty Fathoms – fitting for a watch that should live up to its namesake, and are delivered on a NATO-style strap that is woven from fishing nets that have been recovered from the ocean, and Bioceramic hardware (buckle and keepers).

To what seemed like a sigh of collective relief, the new Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms incorporates the Sistem51, ensuring that the famous tagline “Since 1735, there has never been a quartz Blancpain, and there will never be one”, lives on. On each of the movements, the region of the ocean that the watch pays tribute to is printed onto the bridges, and the rotors feature a picture of a nudibranch that can be found in that ocean. Colourful and playful, the nudibranchs are a great addition to remind owners of the adventure that can be had with these watches. Naturally, the Sistem51 movement also comes with 90 hours of power reserve, as well as a Nivachron balance spring that gives the watch its antimagnetic properties.

Parting Thoughts

To be direct, I hold a sense of cognitive dissonance around this release for a few reasons. Firstly, as a number of fellow enthusiasts and media outlets have pointed out, the watch is non-repairable, somewhat an antithesis of the environmental causes that Blancpain fervently supports. Even though the case is environmentally friendly, the movement itself cannot be repaired – which, to be fair to this release, is the ultimate fate for the majority of the Swatch lineup, quartz or automatic. I am also doubtful whether Blancpain and Swatch will capture the genie again, like how Omega and Swatch did with the MoonSwatch. Undoubtedly, this will be an exercise in brand awareness for Blancpain, however, I would envisage that more time would be spent in the consideration phase of purchasing, given Blancpain’s more niche status in the watch world.

Overall, I am cautiously optimistic of the effects of this collaboration – Blancpain holds a special place in my heart, and I have no doubt that given its fun disposition, this collaboration will see great results in the short term. However, given the higher price point of the Fifty Fathoms, it might be a while yet before the long term fruits of this collaboration can be harvested. I am also sure that this brings more eyes to the watch industry as a whole, and as crazy an idea as this collaboration is, only the Swatch Group would be daring enough to try something like this – and as history can tell, the Swatch Group has been capable of radical thinking to reshape the industry before.

What is the Gombessa Project?

The Gombessa Project began with Laurent Ballesta – diver, underwater photographer and marine biologist, and has been supported by Blancpain since its inception. In 2013, Ballesta set forth to document the habits and habitats of the coelacanth – a living fossil that is thought to be an evolutionary intermediary between sea dwelling fish and land roaming mammals. Long thought to be extinct, the habitat of the coelacanth is found over 100m below the ocean’s surface, and it was Ballesta who was able to bring back these images of this Critically Endangered species. This first expedition paved the way for five more expeditions that observed the mating habits of marbled grouper in French Polynesia, an adventure beneath the Antarctic ice, and to explore the biodiversity that lies hidden in the Mediterranean sea, just to name a few. It was during the Gombessa V (2019) and VI (2021) missions where new techniques for saturation diving and rebreather use were developed, and thus sparked the new requirement from the team for a new timing device from Blancpain.

Saturation Diving and Rebreathers

During Gombessa V and VI, a new technique was pioneered by Ballesta and his teams. They combined the depth capabilities of saturation diving with the low noise and low bubble production of rebreather systems. Traditionally, these are used separately – saturation diving is used to work at extreme depths with the use of pressure chambers as a living quarters, and rebreather systems are used when gas conservation is paramount, or, in the case of the Gombessa project, when the sound and bubbles of normal regulator systems scare wildlife away (sound travels a lot faster in water, thus marine life can be spooked from greater distances). In saturation diving, helium is also added to the gas that the divers breathe, limiting nitrogen narcosis (due to nitrogen having an anesthetic effect under pressure), as well as allowing them to live in this environment to perform multiple dives without needing the time to decompress (remove dissolved gases in the bloodstream). It is for this reason that helium escape valves exist on divers watches – to allow helium that has penetrated the watch case to escape, and to prevent the watch crystal from blowing out due to built-up pressure. The Gombessa projects combined the two diving systems to allow them maximum diving time at great depths, whilst allowing themselves to be as silent as possible while documenting wildlife in the Mediterranean Sea.

The Fifty Fathoms

If there are any stories in the watch industry that should be memorised by watch enthusiasts, the Fifty Fathoms is most definitely a watch collection that deserves this treatment. Conceived in 1953, the requirements of the watch were outlined by two French Navy officers, Captain Robert Maloubier, and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud whilst setting up a new Combat Swimmers special forces division. Blancpain was the only company that provided all of their requirements in a watch that included high legibility, a way to track elapsed time, and water resistant to fifty fathoms – the deepest one could dive at the time. Since then, the watch has gone to serve in militaries around the world, as well as accompanying Jacques Cousteau whilst making his film “The Silent World” in 1956 – with all of his crew wearing the Fifty Fathoms. An air of ruggedness and exploration follows the Fifty Fathoms collection, which is no surprise that Blancpain has continued to support Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa expeditions, as well as being a watch that is suitable for all adventures – for leisure travel or tough sojourns.

Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa

The Fifty Fathoms watch, the rigours of technical diving and the Gombessa projects all come together in Act II of Blancpain’s celebration of the Fifty Fathoms collection, in the form of the Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa. The result of five years of research and development, President & CEO Marc A. Hayek (who is an avid diver himself) and Laurent Ballesta have personally invested their time testing and refining the watch for long-duration saturation dives. Over the course of development, four prototypes were worn during Gombessa V and VI for a 50 day trial period, accompanying the divers to depths of 120m. This was an opportune time to test all of the features of the watch, including the helium release valve, which would have seen real-world use in the hyperbaric chamber they lived in during the expeditions.

The watch is executed in Grade 23 titanium – the highest grade of titanium available that is distinguished by its strength, and anti-allergenic properties whilst being exceptionally light. The case measures in at 47mm, is 300m water resistant, and with the watch appearing “lugless”, the rubber strap appears integrated, and is attached through central attachment points that extend from the centre of the case.

This is similar to the X-Fathoms, where the length of the watch is minimised for wearability (the X-Fathoms was even larger at 55mm).

At three o’clock is the screw down crown with a crown guard, and at ten o’clock is the manual helium escape valve, which can be opened without compromising the water resistance of the watch. The bezel is in black ceramic with luminescent graduations for visibility in low-light situations, and is angled towards the dial. A domed sapphire crystal also enhances legibility of the dial.

Curiously, the graduations on the ceramic bezel are not the same as on traditional divers watches, and for good reason. The bezel is graduated to measure a maximum of three hours instead of sixty minutes, designed for long dives or exits from a saturation system.

Jointly designed by Marc A. Hayek and Laurent Ballesta, the bezel is linked to a separate hand on the dial that makes one revolution every three hours, in white luminescent material that glows green to separate it from the rest of the dial. The dial itself is a pure black, able to absorb almost 97% of light for maximum legibility, and has block-shaped appliques in orange that glow blue to separate itself from diving information (green glow) and time information (blue glow). The hands also follow this rule – orange with blue glow emission. 

Powering this watch is the new 13P8 movement – based on the reliable Calibre 1315 made in-house by Blancpain. This new designation for the movement means that it incorporates the three hour hand system, which, in conjunction with the specially graduated bezel has a patent filed for its invention. As the movement is based on the Calibre 1315, it brings all of the advantages of the 1315, including a five day power reserve, automatic winding, and robustness for which this movement was designed for. The movement is also well-finished – clean spiral brushed finishing for the flat surfaces, but rounded anglage for the edge of the bridge components.

All of this is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, where the oscillating weight can also be seen – complete with the Gombessa Expeditions logo.

The watch is secured by a rubber strap that contains a titanium reinforcement, fastened by a pin buckle with “Fifty Fathoms Tech” engraved into it.

The titanium reinforcement guarantees the strap shape, and comes with an extension to allow it to be worn over a diving suit. The watch is delivered in a Pelican case that includes the aforementioned extension, travelling case, magnifying glass, as well as dividers and cutting tools for you to customise the case for future use. 

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is not limited, but will be limited in production – approximately 100 pieces will be made each year. 

Conclusion

Whilst Blancpain has been humbly playing its part in the realm of science and conservation, the brand should really should take more credit for supporting such an endeavour to explore, document and conserve the oceans, particularly when the images that Ballesta brings up are, for lack of a better word, awesome. The author longs for more of these expeditions to take place, not only to see watches in use, but to see a whole different world that is rarely experienced by people. In the greater scheme of things, these expeditions help us understand the nature of the world around us, and can lead to breakthroughs in other fields of science. The Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is the culmination of a decade of these scientific sojourns to another world, and is the inauguration of a new line of Fifty Fathoms Tech watches specifically designed for technical diving. This brings it in line with the modern mission of the Fifty Fathoms – supporting those who explore the depths, and documenting it so those after us can enjoy them for decades and centuries to come.

Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat

Having been teased on Instagram as a movement under construction during Geneva Watch Days, the unveiling of the UR-112 Aggregat was well received by those who are fans of independent watchmaking. Constantly devising new ways of telling time, Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei of Urwerk outdid themselves with the new UR-112 Aggregat with its three dimensional construction. A result of the Special Projects collection, the watch features a few novel construction methods, with the inclusion of a drive shaft-like component called the “Cardan shaft”. Incorporating gears with conical teeth, this enables the power to be transmitted from a horizontal plane to a vertical plane – this in turn powers the time display that is formed out of triangular prisms that are reminiscent of old classroom clocks. Incredibly futuristic in its appearance, the UR-112 Aggregat features its time display in cylindrical sapphire crystal pieces – combined with its titanium case, this brings a sci-fi look to the entire watch in a way that has not been accomplished before by the brand. Fans of watchmaking, take note – Urwerk has never left the building, and is bringing its unique interpretation of time-telling for us to enjoy. 

Breguet Queen of Naples Heart Ref. 9825

Released in time for Valentine’s Day 2021, the Breguet Queen of Naples Heart Ref. 9825 is a gem-set wonder with a novel time display. Breguet’s oval-shaped Queen of Naples case has been the brand’s signature ladies watch that was modeled after the watch made for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. The Queen of Naples Heart provides this model with its unique time display through a mechanism of oval shaped cams and gears that allows the two-piece minute hand to follow the shape of the case, and form heart shapes as it travels around the dial. This method of time indication is protected by four patents, made even more beautiful with the addition of 128 diamonds on the case and chapter ring, and its sapphire crystal dial with white lacquer giving it a translucent effect. The watch is delivered on a vermilion alligator leather strap with a rose gold deployant buckle set with 0.98 carats of diamonds. Its beauty is undisputed – fit for a queen, however, with only 28 pieces available to the public, only the lucky few will be able to make this a permanent treasure to their collections.

Tudor Pelagos FXD

Earlier 2021, Tudor teased a partnership with the Marine Nationale – a storied partnership between the famed watch company, and the French Navy. With their last issued watch coming from the 80s, this renewed partnership sheds light on the history of these institutions, whilst modernising the military timepiece for the 21st Century. Based on the existing Pelagos model, the Marine Nationale provided Tudor with strict criteria that led to the Pelagos FXD, with its most distinct feature being the fixed bars that add strength to the watch – hence the suffix “FXD”. Also modified from the original watch is the bezel – made more pronounced for added grip, as well as a bi-directional countdown bezel made of ceramic with SuperLuminova inlays. The watch keeps its tool watch roots, with its case made from titanium, and coming in at 42mm. Delivered on a fabric strap with “self-gripping fastening system”, as well as an additional thread-through rubber strap, the Tudor Pelagos FXD provides incredible historical value with its connection to the Marine Nationale, as well as housing great utilitarian watchmaking able to withstand the most punishing of conditions – do a quick search of Instagram and you can find the model that is issued to the navy personnel of today. If that is not enough to convince you of its chops, nothing will.

Petermann Bedat 1967 Second Series

There has not been a time when independent watchmakers have had as many eyes on them as now, and the rise of Petermann Bedat is a testament to that. The duo of Gael Petermann and Florian Bedat have come up with a watch that is essentially a love letter to the independent watchmakers of Switzerland, drawing on talent from Kari Voutilainen’s Comblemine dial factory, and the legendary Dominique Renaud’s movement development expertise. The watch itself is crafted in grade 5 titanium, and is modestly sized at 39mm – a great size for all watch lovers. The dial crafted by Comblemine features a sapphire panel that enables viewing of the German silver baseplate below, bringing contrast to the blue tones with its warmth. Flipping the watch over, we see a massive synthetic ruby jewel, as well as a steel bridge spanning close to the entire diameter of the movement. This steel bridge houses the deadbeat seconds system of the watch, a complex mechanism called the Gafner system that utilises pallets and shaped gears to release the power at one second intervals. Overall, the Petermann Bedat 1967 Second Series shows great promise from these two millennial watchmakers, and we cannot wait to see what the future has in store for them.

Blancpain Air Command

The Air Command from Blancpain is as enigmatic as it is an attractive pilots chronograph – much of its history has been lost to time, but what has been unearthed is an amazing watch with a speculated history of originally being a US Air Force project (Source: Phillips Watches). Regardless of this unknown background, the watch remains as a tribute to a bygone era when watches were essential tools in the cockpit. Coming in either a red gold or an unusual Grade 23 Titanium case (the same type used in the medical industry), the watch is a flyback chronograph utilising the Blancpain F388B. A high-frequency chronograph movement, combined with vintage aesthetics is paired with a blue dial and bezel, creating the perfect mix of old and new for this enigmatic model.

2021 has shown us that the watch world still has ingenuity within it – regardless of the hype surrounding certain pieces. While there may never have been as many eyes on the industry as there have been this year, we can rest assured that the watch world will continue to innovate and proceed on its path to improve its mechanisms as well as capture the hearts and minds of those who love great stories and vintage aesthetics.

The new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe looks familiar – on the surface, it resembles the existing stainless steel model. However, upon closer inspection, we see some additional details that set them apart. The grey dial is vertically brushed, and the ceramic insert of the unidirectional rotating bezel has a matte finish, with a radial brush pattern – like its steel brethren, the numerals are made of LiquidMetal to form a seamless surface with the ceramic. Its 43mm case is crafted of Grade 23 titanium, which is a grade of titanium not usually seen in watchmaking. Compared to Grade 5, Grade 23 has a higher purity – because of this, it is commonly seen in the medical field in orthopaedics, due to its high biocompatibility. The metal still retains the lightness and wearability of the more common Grade 5 titanium, and the watch as a whole is 300m water resistant. The date is located at 4:30, tucked away in a position that is relatively unobtrusive, so as to not disturb the overall symmetry of the dial. The addition of the date is also true to the original 1956 Bathyscaphe, tying this watch with its historical brother. 

The watch is available on a grey sailcloth strap or a grey NATO strap with a grade 23 titanium buckle, or a bracelet made entirely of grade 23 titanium with a double push-button folding clasp. With a lug width of 23mm, it will be a little harder to find other straps for this watch, but rest assured, the straps from Blancpain are of extremely good quality. 

Housed within its titanium case is the Calibre 1315, conceived and built entirely by Blancpain. Visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, the movement is very well finished, mixing industrial-looking finishes with snailing on the surface of the bridge, with haute horlogerie bridge highlights thanks to the rounded chamfers. Three barrels provide a massive 5 day power reserve, and a silicon balance spring for anti-magnetic protection, and an 18k gold rotor that is NAC coated sits atop the movement and winds the watch.

Why you should consider a Blancpain Bathyscaphe

With the hype surrounding a few brands in particular, it can be argued that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms collection has either enjoyed or languished in a position outside of the spotlight. Those that love the brand lament why such a fantastic reference does not command more attention, whilst at the same time, the collection stays fabulously under the radar, only noticed and enjoyed by cognoscenti. It is precisely this latter reason why the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is an excellent choice for those on the search for something different. It still has amazing history, being developed by Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud of the French Navy, and has had amazing provenance of being issued to numerous special forces units around the world. The modern version of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is no less impressive, combining haute horlogerie finishing and movement design, with the historical references to Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watches of the past. The practicality of the Calibre 1315 means that you can still enjoy your other watches throughout the week without worry of the Bathyscaphe running out of power, and its 300m water resistance ensures that you can take the watch anywhere. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in its current state is a watch that is extremely practical for those that love watches, but does not attract undue attention – its existence speaks volumes about the history of dive watches, modern watchmaking, and the conscious choice to avoid conspicuous consumption. 

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium is a welcome addition to this line-up of dive watches from such a storied brand, and there is no doubt that the watch will be appreciated for its wearability, practicality, and its adherence to the principles of haute horlogerie. For those looking for something a little different with no less history to back it up, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe in Titanium is sure to please a discerning watch lover looking to put a little diversity into their collection. 

Tech Specs

Case Diameter: 43mm

Case Thickness: 13.45mm

Lug Width: 23mm

Functions: Time, date, seconds, unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert and LiquidMetal markers

Movement: Calibre 1315, automatic winding, 5 day power reserve, silicon hairspring, 35 jewels, 227 components

Bracelet: grey NATO strap with Grade 23 titanium buckle, grey sailcloth with Grade 23 titanium buckle, Grade 23 titanium bracelet with double push-button deployant clasp

The watch industry has gone through many tumultuous events, most notably the quartz crisis, which not only wiped out many brands, but much of the savoir-faire and tribal knowledge accumulated within the industry. This is similar to what happened with the Blancpain Air Command – designated as a flyback chronograph, the auction house Phillips Watches describes that the watch was created after successful implementation of the brand’s Fifty Fathoms watch across US military units. Scholars and collectors agree that the Air Command project did not proceed after Blancpain proposed it to the US Air Force, and only a few examples from this era survived. Since this period, interest in the Air Command remains high, with examples hammering well above estimates at auctions, however its full history in terms of its production numbers and true purpose remain unknown. Its history may be a mystery, but its utilitarian looks have captured collectors around the world.

The Blancpain Air Command for 2021 comes in a 42.5mm case, in either red gold, or the unusual Grade 23 titanium (the same grade of titanium used for biomedical purposes due to its compatibility with the human body). The watch features a countdown bezel hewn out of ceramic, and has SuperLuminova inlays for the 5 minute markers. Luminescent material also fills out the Arabic numerals on the dial as well as the hands, including the tip of the chronograph seconds hand. The periphery of the dial includes a tachymeter scale for measuring speed, and the subdials are similarly vintage-inspired with the 3 minute markings in the minutes subdial used for easier reading. Arranged in a bi-compax layout, the subdials measure minutes and hours, arranged at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. Text on the dial is limited to “Blancpain”, “Air Command” and “Flyback”, making the dial very clean for a chronograph. The dial also features a sunburst finish that begins from the cannon pinion (where the minutes and hours hands are mounted) and radiates outward.

A glass box sapphire crystal protects the dial, and gives it a vintage aesthetic, as well as the rear of the watch, reducing its apparent thickness. Both models are delivered on calf leather straps, with pin buckles matching the watch case.

Housed within the Blancpain Air Command is the Calibre F388B, a variation of the F385, that is famed for its automatic winding, 5Hz beat rate, as well as its vertical clutch flyback chronograph. The vertical clutch made its debut in Fine Watchmaking with Blancpain in the Frederic Piguet 1185 – being a mechanism that prevents the seconds hand from skipping forward upon activation. Befitting a pilots watch, it also houses a flyback chronograph – used by pilots to navigate with distance and time waypoints. It is also equipped with a silicon balance spring to protect from magnetism, and has a power reserve of 50 hours. 

The enigma of the Blancpain Air Command continues to capture the imaginations of watch collectors everywhere – as such, it is only fitting that the brand gives the fans what they want. Delving deeper into Blancpain’s history is a great thing, as the brand has so many more untold stories that are waiting to be discovered – the Air Command is a great example of a watch that has captured the essence of an era, modernised with today’s watch sensibilities.

Tech Specs

Case Diameter: 42.5mm

Case Thickness: 13.77mm

Materials: Grade 23 Titanium, Red Gold

Lug Width: 23mm

Functions: Time, date, flyback chronograph, bidirectional rotating bezel with countdown scale, tachymetre, hour and minutes subdials for chronograph

Movement: Calibre F388B, automatic winding, 5Hz beat rate, 50 hours power reserve, silicon hairspring, 35 jewels, 293 components

Bracelet: blue calf-leather strap with white stitching on Grade 23 Titanium pin buckle or Red Gold pin buckle

As a physiology major in university, Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy played a large part in our studies. A genetic disorder affecting mainly boys, its effect on growing children is devastating, as muscle membrane proteins are unable to repair effectively. Currently, gene therapy is undergoing trials in patients, and it has shown some promise in increasing muscle strength – however, there is still much work to be done in this field in order to develop new therapies for this affliction. 

Every two years, the watch world together with the Association Monegasque contre les Myopathies, works on an auction where all proceeds go to funding research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – as of early 2021, over 70 million Euro has been raised to benefit children afflicted by this disease. It is an opportunity for brands and independent watchmakers to put forward their wildest watches, ranging from prototypes, to altered colour schemes for familiar pieces, all the way to new movements and complications.

For someone who studied physiology, and has delved into the mechanisms of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, it is truly enlightening to see the watch world come together for such a noble cause. It is one of the rare times we see the industry so united, and we think there is no better cause than this for them to create these one-offs.

Our founder Adi Soon has written about his picks for Only Watch – here are my fantasy picks if I had the wallet to help raise money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Akrivia – Chronometre Contemporain II

A darling child of the independent watch scene, Rexhep Rexhepi begins a new chapter in his career with the Chronometre Contemporain II. Retaining the lauded classical aesthetics of the first version of his Chronometre Contemporain, the watch is built from the ground-up as an entirely new timepiece.

A dial with a two-stage production process of grand-feu enamel, followed by a translucent champagne-coloured flinque enamel graces the front of the watch.l  The case, hewn from 950 Platinum respects traditional craftsmanship, and is produced in 14 parts by Jean-Pierre Hagmann – a boitier/casemaker by trade who has been lauded for his minute repeater cases, manufacturing for numerous brands in the past and is now working with Rexhepi. The “JHP” hallmark on the lugs signifies its provenance, and each of these lugs are individually soldered to the case.

Housed within its platinum case is a manually wound movement that is aesthetically similar to what was housed in the previous Chronometre Contemporain, however it now incorporates a dead-beat seconds mechanism, as well as being certified by the Besancon Observatory. This watch also includes an experience of visiting the Besancon Observatory – undoubtedly a package that represents fine watchmaking as a whole, in its craftsmanship and its history.

Blancpain – Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No-Rads

Proving to be incredibly popular amongst watch fans, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms series of watches looks back into the archives, and revives key models that were instrumental in forming the evolution of the modern dive watch. At Only Watch 2021, the No-Rads has been brought back with orange-coloured accents on the dial and bezel to match with the theme of the auction – this can look like an attractive pumpkin-like patina, which vintage enthusiasts are sure to enjoy.

This version for this edition of Only Watch also removes the date window, cleaning up the dial and making it more symmetrical – this is, however, not how the original was presented, but will be sure to please those that love a cleaner aesthetic. The orange colour scheme extends down to the No-Rads symbol at 6 o’clock – instead of yellow and red, it is now orange and yellow. Powering this version of the watch is the Blancpain Calibre 1154, with a custom-engraved rotor commemorating Only Watch 2021.

Chopard – Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

For fans of Switzerland, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the brand’s familiar sports watch, but with the addition of a natural Swiss granite stone dial from the Graubunden region of the country. Speckled with blue and green inclusions, the dial echoes the view of the Alpine region from the sky.

Naturally, in order to view the beauty of the stone dial, the sapphire crystal has the brand printed onto it. The 44mm case is made from Lucent Steel, the same as in the main line collections where a portion of the steel used is recycled – this steel is also harder than traditional 316L Stainless Steel used in many watches. Housed within the fantastic steel case is the Chopard 03.05-C movement, for which 3 patents are filed for the chronometer certified movement, and the watch is delivered on a calfskin strap with a titanium inlay.

Czapek – Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise”

ISOCHRONO are very much fans of this new release from Czapek, and we wrote about it extensively earlier this year. This version of the Antarctique features an orange colour that is CVD coated, done in partnership with Positive Coating.

The movement itself is also the fruit of a partnership – with Chronode, no less. The SHX6 movement displays the entire split seconds chronograph mechanism on the dial side, to display the beauty of its finishing, and the mechanical interactions each component plays when the chronograph is activated.

Housed in Stainless Steel, and measuring in at 42.5mm, the Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise” also features chronograph subdials and a minutes track in fume coated sapphire crystal – the minutes track also features a hidden message from 0-10 seconds – “Courage Every Second” – a message that is fitting for an auction that benefits Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

DeBethune/Voutilainen

On the surface the entry from DeBethune and Kari Voutilainen represents a collision of worlds, with a stark juxtaposition of classic and modern watchmaking in one watch. In reality, the duo of Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen is closer than one might think – they both had the same teacher when they attended watchmaking school, and hence, each side represents their vision of watchmaking.

Kari Voutilainen’s side of the watch continues his very classical interpretation of watch dials, with multiple forms of guilloche visible on the dial, and heavily stylised Breguet-esque hands. Denis Flageollet’s side, on the other hand, displays the hyper-modern watchmaking that DeBethune is famous for – Star Trek-like shapes for the movement components, and skeletonised bridges to expose more of the mechanisms lying underneath.

Voutilainen’s side uses the Isogone display, where a minute ring revolves with the minutes hand. This means that hands will always line up at the hour, be at 90 degrees for 15 minutes past the hour, 180 degrees for the half hour, and 270 degrees for 45 minutes past the hour – the idea being that the display of the hands remains consistent throughout the hours. This side also features a large deadbeat seconds hand. DeBethune’s side involves a rotating minute hand at the periphery of the dial, and the hours indicator curiously positioned where the balance wheel is located – an unusual arrangement, but nonetheless an attractive one that leaves the construction of the movement to speak wonders for the watch. The calibre OW21 housed within has a 4 day power reserve, and features a titanium balance wheel as well as a silicon escapement.

FP Journe x Francis Ford Coppola – FFC Blue

Taking an incredible 7 years from conception to development, the FFC Blue was inspired during a dinner between Coppola and Journe, with Coppola asking if there was any possible way for a watch to tell the time with a hand – and not in the sense that we are used to in watchmaking. Journe took the inspiration of this display from a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Pare, the father of modern surgery, and had to devise a way to display all 12 hours with only 5 fingers.

Furthermore, this is powered by a version of the Octa 1300 movement, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Housed within a weighty tantalum case, the movement is crafted entirely of rose gold, and the rotor is engraved with the names of Ambroise Pare, Francis Ford Coppola, and of course, FP Journe.

The minutes are displayed on a disc on the periphery of the dial with a blued triangular arrow, and of course, the “digital” hours are indicated by the blue hand in the centre of the dial. Whilst we can certainly think of ways that this watch can be even more provocative through the use of its middle digits, this watch is certainly provocative enough with its radical display of time, and incorporation of automata in its construction.

Girard-Perregaux – Casquette, Only Watch Edition

It’s back to the future for Girard-Perregaux at the 2021 edition of Only Watch, as the brand works with Bamford Watch Department to unveil a new version of the famous LED watch from 1976. The watch uses a new movement that utilises an LED display, just like the original Casquette, but protects this in a case of forged carbon and titanium.

Titanium pushers are used to activate the display – just like in the 1970s, LED displays still utilise a lot of power, and the pushers activate the display on demand. Undoubtedly, this is a great way to get vintage vibes from the 70s, whilst retaining an essence of modernity in the form of the case.

Krayon – Anywhere

Featuring a lacquer dial with a mosaic effect, the Krayon Anywhere for Only Watch 2021 features an interpretation of Claude Monet’s “Impression, rising sun” on its Metiers d’Art dial. Distinctive for being the only watch with its Equation of Time and Sunrise/Sunset function capable of being set for any location on Earth, the buyer of this watch will be able to choose the location upon purchase.

The watch also features an incredible amount of fine finishing on the movement – as a prototype, it is finished excellently with manually executed bevels, many of them internal bevels.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch

The shape of the “bulldog” lent itself well to an iteration of this watch in Panda form, with its rounded edges and organic forms. To further the Panda aesthetic, titanium ears were added to domed upper sapphire crystal, the upper case was reworked in stainless steel to accept a black and white lacquer finishing, and a silicon nitride ball was used for its tail. As the Panda is always munching on bamboo, the teeth remain underneath the “eyes/hour and minutes indicators” of the panda – this also serves to indicate the power reserve. To top it all off, the Panda motif is further reinforced with a black and white velcro strap.

Patek Philippe – “Complicated Desk Clock”

For those that managed to procure the entire collection of Patek Philippe watches (including the elusive Nautilus 5711/1A), Patek Philippe dug deep into its archives and based their Only Watch 2021 entry on a clock owned by a famous collector. Originally delivered in 1923, the original clock was ordered by James Ward Packard, and now resides in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The modestly named Only Watch 2021 clock is a veritable horological beast, hewn from Sterling Silver, with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut furniture. Driven by the Calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the clock boasts a power reserve of 31 days with power reserve indicator, a perpetual calendar, jumping seconds and a week indicator shown through a red window at the periphery of the dial. Its precision in construction utilising its Gyromax balance wheel and a 28,800 vph oscillation frequency, the clock is adjusted to within +1/-1 seconds per day – an amazing rate of accuracy for a mechanical clock, and we can expect nothing but the best from Patek Philippe.

Speake Marin – Dual Time Openworked Only Watch The Sun

With the world awakening from its pandemic slumber, it could be said that the Speake Marin is a watch for the times. Equipped with an in-house dual-time movement (the SMA02), the watch is ready to accompany its wearer on journeys across the world.

Contrasting with 42mm DLC coated case is an orange dial that is the thematic colour of this year’s edition of Only Watch, not only representing hope and progress in the world of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research, but also a reminder of the reemerging world.

TAG Heuer – Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A modern reinterpretation of the “Dark Lord” Monaco, the watch takes its inspiration from this vintage model of the 70s, and utilises modern materials to update its look and feel, whilst incorporating thoroughly modern features in its movement construction. The case is made from forged carbon, and the Only Watch 2021 thematic colours of orange stand out against its dark skeletonised dial.

The movement features a ‘gratte’ finish to echo a finishing flag that brings to mind its racing heritage, and the rear of the watch features the largest sapphire crystal case back to ever be featured on a Monaco. Within the forged carbon case is the Heuer 02 in-house movement, that is curiously fitted with a carbon hairspring – continuing the theme of carbon within the movement. It is fantastic to see that the carbon hairspring has made its way back to a production watch, and we can only hope that it is a signal for things to come.

Zenith x Felipe Pantone – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone

All of your chromatic dreams come true – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone brings the artist’s chromatic artistic inspiration to the wrist in an amazing 46mm sapphire case. A rainbow for the wrist, the multi-coloured finishings are applied to an El Primero 9020 movement that features one tourbillon for timekeeping and one for the chronograph itself, beating at 5Hz and 50Hz respectively. Accompanying the watch will be an artwork made by the artist himself. Two whirlwinds are better than one, and with this watch and the accompanying artwork, it will undoubtedly be a colourful one at that.

In 1953, the first Fifty Fathoms model was released, born of then-CEO Jean-Jacques Fichter’s passion for diving, as well as stringent requirements set out by two French Marine Nationale (French Navy) officers, Robert Maloubier and Claude Riffaud. Effectively designing the modern dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms would go on to be issued to specialist units worldwide, as well as being prominent in the civilian world of diving. 

However, in the 1960s, the threat of the Cold War amplified the public’s concern for radioactive materials in everyday life, and at the time, watches were a cause for concern. Watch dials would often be painted with Radium for a luminescent glow in low-light conditions, however, the material remains radioactive for a long period of time – Radium-226, for example will lose half of its radioactivity over a period of 1600 years. It is for this reason that Blancpain wanted to reassure their customers that their watches did not contain any harmful radium, and it is why they released a model with the distinctive “trefoil” logo with “No Radiations” printed at 6 o’clock, making the message clear and easy to understand.

The Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad, pays its respects to the model of the mid-1960s with an accurate reproduction of the “No Rads” logo at 6 o’clock – yellow background with the trefoil logo in red, a black cross over the trefoil with the words “No Radiations” at its bottom. The dial is also faithful to original models, with its distinctive diamond-shaped 12 o’clock marker, date indicator at 3 o’clock outlined in white, and the rectangular bars at 6 and 9 o’clock. The markers and the markings on the bezel are also coloured in beige to give the effect of patina, which, for a model meant to evoke the past, is an appropriate touch. 

Speaking of the bezel, this echoes past Fifty Fathoms models, with its construction – luminescent material underneath a transparent upper material, in this case, sapphire crystal. This gives the bezel its glow, and in low-light conditions, the whole dial and bezel glow brilliantly. The 40.3mm stainless steel case that is used in this model is reserved exclusively for the special edition Fifty Fathoms models, and it bears a mirror-polished finish, with the Blancpain logo engraved on the side opposite the crown. This size has been especially lauded by enthusiasts, as a return-to-form for the collection and more accurately paying tribute to vintage Fifty Fathoms models of yore. The watch comes mounted on a “tropic” style, perforated rubber strap that was commonly seen on seafaring models of the past.

Housed within the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad is the in-house Blancpain Calibre 1151 – equipped with a silicon balance spring for anti-magnetic protection, and boasting a 4 day power reserve. It is exhibited through a sapphire crystal caseback, that shows off the fine finishing that has been lavished on what is meant to be a utilitarian instrument. In addition, the winding rotor in 18k Gold has an oval-shaped cut out just below the fastening screws, echoing the way that vintage models had a cut out in the rotor to improve shock resistance. 

The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad is therefore an apt reminder of why tool watches are so beloved in the first place. The story that this watch tells is that of a compelling period of history, when much of the world was still unknown to us, and we needed these instruments to accompany us on our adventures. Now more than ever, the desire for escape and wanderlust may be more prominent than ever, and this watch gives us a story that lets us fantasise about our next escape. The watch is limited to 500 pieces worldwide, and has already experienced overwhelming demand at Authorised Retailers and Boutiques – making it proof that a modern luxury watch with a compelling story can be beloved by enthusiasts, as well as being a commercial success.

This is always something good to remember when thinking about the ladies watches from Blancpain, because it is sometimes necessary with other brands of a similar prestige level to enquire if a watch you’re looking at from them is a quartz watch. Not that I’m against quartz in any way, but I’ve always wondered what the point was to pay tens of thousands of dollars for a quartz watch from a prestige brand, with a mass produced technology that is destined to stop working in a few decades due to the lack of circuit boards and old batteries.Thankfully, there are no such worries with Blancpain and it’s nice that everything, even the impossibly small ladies watches from the brand, are mechanical.This is the reason why the new calibre 510 from Blancpain is such a nice addition to the brand’s movements, and evidence that they still care about making ladies watches the proper way.

The “Valentine’s Day 2020” is a limited edition watch of 14 pieces in celebration of Valentine’s day, but also a notable showcase of the brand’s new form movement, the rectangular and skeletonised calibre 510.On the outside of its rectangular white gold Art Deco style case sit a row of 84 diamonds, sometimes in superposed rows, including two marquise-cut gems. It also has a mother-of-pearl dial inlaid with two hearts, and adorned with two brilliant-cut diamonds and two precious butterflies made of diamond and ruby hearts.All well and good, but it’s the movement that is perhaps the bigger story here. At 12mm wide and 25.2mm long, it might not be the smallest movement in the world, but it is a new one and it comes with an impressive set of features. For example, it has a good 52-hour power reserve, which is surprising given the small size of the movement. Because of this, the barrel does take up a large proportion of the space at the top of the movement, with the relatively large free sprung balance wheel dominating the space at the bottom.It is surprising that the movement is also open-worked, and most of the going-train, the barrel ratchet wheel as well as the keyless works being visible, although as visible as can be given the small amount of space that was available to work with

While the Saint-Valentin 2020 does stand alone as an intriguing piece of horology, what might be surprising is where the inspiration for this watch came from.The art-deco and rectangular case was inspired by a watch that was owned by Marilyn Monroe, and made by Blancpain in the 1930’s. Inside, there is a form mechanical movement with 17 jewels that bears the Rayville signature because this was before the brand was renamed Rayville-Blancpain in 1933 after the death of Frederic-Emile, the last of the Blancpain family. At that point, the business was take over by his assistant – and the first woman to run a Swiss watch company-  Betty Fiechter, who would go on to have a long and storied career with the brand. Blancpain purchased the watch at a Julien’s Auction in 2016, after it had been put up for sale as part of the Estate of Lee Strasberg, Marilyn’s acting coach, who received the watch upon Marilyn’s death in 1962.Now that does make the new “Valentine’s Day 2020″ something a little bit more special, and it does make it a memorable way to launch the new calibre 510. There is no doubt that more ladies watches from Blancpain will feature this exceptional movement in the future.

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This was a watch that, as the name describes, has a Tourbillon, Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minutes, a trio of complications that on the surface, is surely enough to tempt one in for a closer look. Yet when the watch was placed in my hands, I was amazed. Why? Because the reason for its appeal was something beyond what it had technically.

Let me put it this way – if the appeal for a watch can be quantified with the head and the heart, the Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Retrograde satisfies both to the extreme. No one can complain about what it brings to the table technically – I’ve already listed the complications after all – yet what it brings aesthetically, is so sublime, so balanced and so clean, that one is left utterly speechless.

There are a rare few watches that make me remember them after I’ve spent a short time with them, and this was one of them. I immediately hailed it – to whoever would listen – as one of the best watches released in Baselworld that year (2018). And given the fact that my appointment with Blancpain was necessarily short in that little window of a packed schedule, I was hoping to have a closer look at the watch again when it would arrive in boutiques later in the year.

But that was not to happen? Why? Apparently I was not the only one who had been mesmerised, and so any pieces that were produced were immediately spoken for.

That is until a recent Blancpain event, when it happened to be on the wrist of a senior executive from the brand, who was in Singapore to introduce the 2019 Novelties.

Blancpain Air Command – Reviving History 

Yet I did not know this to be the case, until in a conversation with someone from the brand when I exclaimed that the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Retrograde was a watch I had been so impressed by last year but never saw again. She instantly replied, “Oh, but we have one here today.”

And here it is.

In its pride of place at the 12 o’clock position is the flying tourbillon that notably uses a transparent sapphire disc for its lower bridge which makes the tourbillon seem to float. This is more obvious when seen from the rear view of the movement.

As we move back a little to take in the view of the movement from the back, we see the hand-guilloché pattern on the bridges and even the ratchet wheel which has been skeletonized. Note as well the guilloché decorated wheel that serves as a power reserve indicator for the watch which comes in at a very healthy 144 hours (6 days).

The main content of the dial design is all down the central axis with the Flying Tourbillon above and the time display below. The time is told by a combination of an hour window – which holds the jumping hour, and a minute track that goes from 0 to 60 and then jumps back (retrogrades). The symmetry of the dial is beautiful and one even forgives the fact that this is not a watch that one can quickly telling the time with. Although with a watch like this, that is a secondary consideration.

The inclusion of a Grand Feu enamel dial elevates the clean design, imparting another layer of purity to the overall aesthetic. Yet it also adds another layer of difficulty, since the dial design is quite complex, needing additional steps to account for the holes in the dial and the diamond polished rings for the tourbillon and the hour window.

On the wrist, what you see is a model of simplicity and symmetry, with the dial elements floating in a sea of white. Wrist presence is of course very nice, and with the 42mm 18K red gold case case, the watch wears well due to the relatively short lugs that slope down from the case.

Overall, I was glad to see this watch again in the flesh and to photograph it in more detail. There are watches that leave a lasting impression and this was certainly one of them. In execution, it is my perfect elegant Blancpain and one that I can probably live with for the rest of my life if I were lucky to afford one.

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This was the thought that came to mind when I encountered the Blancpain Air Command, one of the novelties for the brand for 2019. 

It was genuinely a surprise to see this watch, and as I was lost in its handsomeness, I was for a moment confused as to why there were Fifty Fathoms watches in the showcase just next to it. I mean, with Blancpain, you get beautiful traditional watchmaking on the one hand, or rugged divers on another. Pilot’s watches? Well, that’s more with Breguet and their Type XX and XXI series, but not Blancpain. 

Well, turns out that the Blancpain Air Command was indeed a watch that the brand made in the 1950’s. At the time, the French Ministry of Defence was looking for a chronograph as standard issue equipment for their airmen that had a specific set of technical and aesthetic requirements, with these designated under specifications known as “Type 20”. It had to have a small seconds hand, flyback chronograph function, as well as a black dial with luminous markers and hands.  

Some time later, when other armed forces began looking for something similar for their own use, Blancpain, who had already been supplying the US Navy with its Fifty Fathoms diver’s watch, began to realize that a chronograph of such a design and specification would be of interest to the US Air Force. To this end, the original Air Command was developed and made, and through their distributor,  Allen V. Tornek, was offered to American military pilots. 

12 watches were thought to have been made as prototypes and as it stands now, no information is available regarding how many were ordered and produced, although that number is necessarily quite small, and whatever exists now is as rare as rare can be. 

Of course, regardless of the scarcity of information regarding the original watch, what we see with the 2019 reissue is a largely faithful rendition with the main design aspects intact. There is the same tachymeter scale, rotating “countdown” bezel and 30 minute sub-dial on the right, and even the size at 42.5mm vs the older one at 42mm is almost similar. The modern one however replaces the running seconds indicator on the left subdial of the original with a 12 hour counter sub-dial, a nice deviation that gives modern users added functionality, although the lack of a running small seconds does make the dial seem static in comparison when worn. 

Other nice touches of the 2019 version include the same “Air Command” script under the Blancpain logo, and the same font used for the Arabic numerals, which are covered with orange hued Super-LumiNova®, meant to evoke the look of the faded radium lume of the original. 

With the front facing aesthetics well taken care of, another surprise awaits when turning the watch over. Unlike the plain covered casebacks of old, the new 2019 Air Command comes with a beautifully decorated movement, the 5 Hz Calibre F388B, plainly visible in all its glory due to the propeller-shaped red gold oscillating weight, that is itself very well done and rather unique. Although some might find the propeller weight quite gimmicky, I happen to like it very much, as it accords well with what the watch is all about, and sets off the spare, but extremely technical design of theF Piguet 1185 derived movement very well. 

Of course with the Calibre F338B, we get the best ingredients for a chronograph in a watch, a column wheel and a vertical clutch, with the former giving a nice smoothness to the pusher action and the latter giving a smooth start and stop of the chronograph seconds hand.  

Limited to 500 pieces, this is a watch that will no doubt be popular. Perhaps it will come into the standard collection in the future (with a slight variation to appease the buyers of this version), as I think that it deserves a place in the future of Blancpain’s offerings.

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