At the fairs in Geneva this year, it could be said that the industry went all sensible on us – classic designs, perennial favourite colours, and modest sizes that would not look out of place in an enthusiast’s collection in years, or even decades to come. However, a few brands clearly exhibited that their brand still has that spark of untamed desire to push the boundaries of what the watchmaking industry is capable of – the horological equivalent of Faster, Higher, Stronger. In many respects, Bulgari came to Geneva with a watch that made waves in the community, and answered the question of whether they could go thinner and be as precise as a chronometer. In 2024, Bulgari unveiled the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, a declaration that they now have the thinnest mechanical watch, as well as the thinnest COSC certified chronometer.

Following on from the Octo Finissimo Ultra in 2022, the development of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC in 2024 is akin to Formula 1 drivers shaving off milliseconds of their lap times, where every fraction of a second is a monumental effort. With this watch, the research and development team at Bulgari, along with their partners Concepto (who have considerable expertise in complex mechanisms), set out to surpass what they have achieved as the thinnest mechanical watch. 

Firstly, the watch has to maximise the use of the available space, and so to bring down the watch to a record-breaking 1.75mm, the watch case becomes the mainplate of the movement itself. A base of hard tungsten carbide is used for this base, upon which the 170 components of the BVL180 calibre are assembled. These components are individually selected through an optical scanning process, with tolerances of 1/10th of a micron, showing how rigorous the manufacturing process has to be in order for even the components to be utilised in the construction of this watch. The Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC also features a reworked sapphire crystal to help achieve that significant thinness. 

Our intrepid Editor-at-large, Gerald Chew spoke with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani about the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC – Buonamassa mentions that the development of the original Octo Finissimo Ultra left a bit of margin in terms of size to incorporate future dial designs, however, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was a push to see how far the team could go. It was also determined that through the development of its predecessor, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was already precise enough to be submitted to the chronometer testing cycles, and so they asked “why not?”. The Bulgari team decided that chronometer certification on its own is something that many brands can achieve, but with the type of watchmaking that the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC represents, it was important that its precision and stability was officially recognised. Thus, all 20 watches of this limited edition undergo this testing, and unlike most chronometer certified watches, the entire Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC has to go through the testing, as movement and case are one and the same.

Aesthetically, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is a watch that carries a strong visual impact with its partially skeletonised movement, and its layout. The large barrel can be seen at 10/11 o’clock, with hours and minutes separated into individual subdials at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively. The ultra-flat balance wheel can also be seen oscillating at 7 o’clock, completing a dial that has an organic feel. In comparison to its predecessor, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC does not feature a QR code in the barrel ratchet wheel, but instead moves that to the rear of the watch, with that Bulgari has called the Datamatrix – containing a repository of photos and images that bring you on the journey of how the watch was born.

The watch itself is wound and adjusted through two crowns on the rear of the watch, and is supplied with a special box that is able to wind and set the watch to the correct time – all of which is automated through a digital display that will deliver the watch perfectly set and ready to go for the day.

In an industry filled with superlatives, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC truly is a physical embodiment of one – the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, as well as being certified as one of the most precise timekeepers in the watch industry. An achievement that truly pushes the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking, Bulgari has certainly reignited the conversation around this topic, with enthusiasts asking – what will the brand do next in their string of world records?

Technical Specifications

Movement

BVL 180 manufacture manual winding mechanical ultra-thin movement with regulator display.

COSC-certified movement; thickness: 1.50 mm; power reserve: 50-hour; frequency: 28’800 VpH (4Hz).

Case, Dial and Bracelet

A 40 mm case (1.70 mm thick) with sandblasted titanium lugs, bezel and middle case; tungsten carbide main plate; winding and time-setting wheels in satin-finish steel; ratchet in sandblasted steel engraved with writing and a geometric decoration.

Hour and minute regulator display counters in sandblasted brass with grey PVD coating, polished brass hands with rhodium coating and white indexes, satin-finish steel second wheel with black index indicator.

Sandblasted titanium bracelet with fully integrated folding buckle, 1.50 mm thin

ISOCHRONO: Ciao Fabrizio, looking impeccably turned out as usual. Would you take us through the novelties of Bulgari watches for 2024?

Fabrizio Bournamassa (FB):

So we have the Tubogas, which we collaborated on with Tadao Ando;  and we have the fantastic Octo Finissimo Ultra, in which we have the world record for thinness (1.70mm thin) which is also, notably this time, COSC certified. The watch is also in a version made in platinum, which was the first Ultra that we presented two years ago. For this latest version, the development process was very hard because we completely redesigned the watch from scratch due to the change in material from platinum to titanium.

We spent one year and a half to create the bracelet, more or less the same time we used to create the movement of the Octo Finissimo Ultra that is up to COSC certification standards. It was more or less two years, all in all to develop. 

ISOCHRONO: What was the reason why you decided to make an COSC Certified Ultra?

We had a little bit of margin when we produced the first Octo Finissimo Ultra which was very successful. So at the time, we were satisfied. After six months though, we decided that we wanted to maximize the small margin we had to further develop the watch to see how far we could go. 

Due to the fact that  COSC certification demands that every single movement is tested, we were obligated to test every single watch because as you know,  with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, it is not possible to separate the movement from the case due to the unique design of having the movement components on the movement plate itself, which is also effectively the case of the watch. 

ISOCHRONO: Can you clarify what you mean by ‘margin’? 

FB: Yeah, margin means that we had at the time, we had a little bit of room in and around the case.

So the idea at first was to be satisfied and to say enough because we are already unique.   But we realized that we could make the watch even thinner. We had initially left the margin because we had some ideas, for example, that we could make the watch with other dials, or to have different finishing possibilities.  

So on the Octo Finissimo Ultra each component is extreme in terms of thinness. However we wanted it to be a safe watch that you can wear every day. But the origin of the idea is saying, “guys, if you want to change the material, if you want to have another kind of dial, please leave us some millimeters in the case to play with these kind of elements.”

ISOCHRONO: Is the Ultra and the Ultra COSC materially the same watch? 

FB: It is essentially same watch but with slightly different thickness due to the difference in material used 

ISOCHRONO: What’s the difference in material?

The case of the Ultra COSC is titanium, whereas the case of the second Ultra is in platinum. The platinum version at 1.8mm is thicker than the COSC version at 1.7mm. Take note that for both, the movements in these watches are only 1.5mm thick. 

So today we already have three different Octo Finissimo Ultra. We have the first one with the QR code made in tungsten carbide and titanium. Secondly we have the Ultra COSC that is thinner than the titanium one – the same material, titanium and tungsten carbide but thinner (1.7mm). Thirdly we have the platinum one which is the thickest (1.8mm) due to the use of platinum.

Do you know how heavy the platinum version is? 200 grams, which is pretty heavy, because the bracelet is made of platinum too, with the exception of the buckle, which is in titanium, due to the fact that we need a certain rigidity for the buckle. The bracelet is in platinum, the case is in platinum, the central part of the case is in tungsten carbide and the bezel is in platinum.

ISOCHRONO: What did you have to do to achieve the COSC certification?

Honestly, this is a technical question. We have to check with the product development director to get specific on this. However, as I remember, this was not a big achievement for us honestly. We never considered that COSC certification for the Octo Finissimo was a priority. 

When I joined the company more than 20 years ago, a lot of sports watches on the market had COSC certification as a standard feature. At the time, it seemed that every single brand was offering this for their watches. From our point of view, it was something that was not interesting anymore for the client. 

However, with the kind of watchmaking that the Ultra represents, we felt that, if it had COSC certification, it would mean that the watch is not only the thinnest on the market, but it’s also one with the most precise and stable movement. 

So I discussed it yesterday with friends of mine and they said, “Yes, Fabrizio, the watch is beautiful, but the COSC certification is something that nobody would expect.” Nobody can imagine this kind of movement in such a slim watch. In addition I have to mention: the packaging is something special.

Each watch is going to have the COSC certificate in the packaging. When you leave the watch to rest, you put it inside the packaging, you close the packaging, there is a camera to read the time. If it’s not correct, there is a mechanism in the packaging to set the time and charge the barrel. The watch can also be wound via a crown on the underside of the case.

ISOCHRONO: Incredible! Tell us about the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton.

The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is a new execution with different colors, different materials, but the movement is the same as the previous version. Yes, it’s just a different execution with a movement that we already have. There are three executions:  two hand wound 42mm versions in DLC-Coated titanium or 18K rose gold, at just 4.85mm thick with 52 hours power reserve. Another version is the automatic DLC model with platinum case, thickness of 4.95mm. 

We also presented the Octo Finissimo Sketch celebrating Bulgari’s 140th anniversary, bringing a hand drawn version of the movement and representing it on the dial. Available in 40mm time only in steel and in 18K rose gold. It also comes in  a 43mm chronograph GMT steel edition. 

Each time for us, it’s important to have different materials; to keep working on materials and execution. For sure, in our pipeline, we even have new movements for Octo. We have very important developments on the Octo. We have different materials etc. We are working very, very hard on the Octo Finissimo platform. In the near future, you will have a lot of surprises. Very, very interesting surprises!

ISOCHRONO:You like Japan a lot, I believe. So Tadao Ando has done a lot with Bulgari. Tell us about this collaboration. 

FB: We met each other the first time when working on the special edition Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando. This time Tadao had the idea to work with Bulgari on the theme of nature. He came to us with a very wide brief, with no specific idea about what the watch would be yet. 

At the beginning we started with a certain watch and after a while we were not happy with the progress.

So we decided to go ahead with the Serpenti Tubogas because it’s the most natural watch for this idea. The idea of Tadao was to celebrate nature through the four seasons.

So we started to discuss that internally. The Serpenti Tubogas is the most iconic watch that we have, and its interesting that we have never made a collaboration with our ladies’ watches before. 

The idea of Tadao was to talk about the seasons and the seasons’ colors. Bulgari is the master of color gemstones.

But it was not so easy to find the real connection between Bulgari, Serpenti, nature and Tadao Ando. The previous projects were more dedicated to the aesthetic of Tadao Ando. His Octo looks like a small piece of architecture with the same kind of aesthetics that you find on a concrete building, made by Tadao. 

On this watch, the concept, the idea, was more philosophical.

So at a certain moment, I start to think about this: that we make the dial with artistic stones, which are a natural element in essence.

When we buy a part of a stone, to make a dial, we can use just a portion of the stone. We are obliged to cut the original stone many, many times to create the dial. So I started to think, that is a natural element that we threw out; and this is not something that makes sense. In this project, we talk about nature. So the idea that we don’t want to throw out any natural elements was very interesting for Tadao.

The idea was that in this way, we can play with, say, the history of Italian mosaics – Florentine mosaics made with art stones and marble, for example. And adding something very close to the Kintsugi technique in Japan (the art of putting together broken pottery pieces with gold – a metaphor for embracing flaws and imperfections). The remade object, it’s even more precious than when it was new. 

So I say, guys, it looks like an Italian mosaic as a design motif. We are talking about natural gemstones. Tadao wants to talk about nature, so we don’t want to throw out this part of the natural gem. We have to put this concept all together and we have to make a dial. 

The problem of this particular watch is that the dial is curved, not flat. So we can only accept a certain dimension because otherwise the dial may become crazy and it’s makes no sense with many big and small pieces together, and we can only accept a certain range of colours because otherwise, again, it looks like a Harlequin.

It was not so easy to find the right stones. The green aventurine was the most difficult one because it contains a lot of straight lines going in a thousand directions. In the end, you don’t have the perception of a green forest. So we moved to natural green aventurine.

The most beautiful one for me is the “aki” with the tiger eye that looks like a leaf on the (autumn) floor. It was obvious to choose the mother of birth (What) for the winter season. For spring, it is mother of pearl with shades of pink like cherry blossoms blooming. 

ISOCHRONO: So you had to be very selective about choosing the right stones because of the natural flow (inherent qualities) of the stones. 

Yeah, exactly. As you can see, each dial has different compositions of stone fragments that make up each dial. The colors and shades of stones vary, making each dial unique and individual.

I don’t remember how many trials there were about the different shades. Today we are very happy about this collection. Four limited editions. Summer (natsu): two tone yellow gold and steel bracelet and case with green aventurine dial. Autumn (aki): rose gold case and bracelet with tiger’s eye dial. Winter (fuyu): steel case and bracelet with white mother of pearl dial. Spring (haru): two tone rose gold and steel case and bracelet with pink mother of pearl dial. 

Tadao was always in touch and connected to each aspect of this project – hard as it is to reach him because he travels so much and is very busy – so he is very happy to have his influence on the manufacture, the design, and even the packaging for this watch. 

Thank you for your time and for sharing your ideas and inspirations creating this year’s watches!

We met and spoke to Mr. Antoine Pin, Managing Director of Bulgari Watch Division at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix in Geneva to understand the root of the inspirations behind the new Octo Finissimo watches.

Isochrono: This year’s entry by Bulgari for Only Watch is something very special. It’s made of marble. Can you share with us where this inspiration stems from and would it ever be available for people to buy without going to the auctions?

Antoine Pin (Antoine): I think there is a lot of reasoning in our creativity, but this creativity is grounded. It is grounded in the sense that we define a very clear playing field for creativity. The playing field is rigorously researched and continuously calibrated, so that creativity can express itself at its best. This creativity in that sense is necessarily related to the essence of Bulgari – our origin as an Italian jeweller. 

We keep asking ourselves questions; what is our added value to the watch industry? What do we bring that does not exist? So we bring in our own regions as a company rooted in Italian philosophy; a company that pays the same level of attention to both aesthetics and functionality. Obviously as an Italian brand, we connect with the materials historically linked to Italy and marble is a very important aspect of that. 

And so, for years, there has been this idea to explore the use of materials, and as a jeweller, we’ve always been very innovative in that arena. We were the first brand to bring aluminium into the world of watches, one of the very first brands to do so. We were one of the very first jewellers to bring steel into jewellery works or to introduce china into jewellery as well. So we explore the world of materials and finishing. Bringing Finissimo and marble together was a proposition that is considered the epitome of Bulgari watch.

It’s probably six years ago when Fabrizio (Buonomassa) was in contact with the marble company that proposed to do this kind of work. It was extremely complex – super complex. Marble is a fragile stone, and actually if you look at the product, it’s not perfect. You can never cut it perfectly. There will always be bits of fragments that will come out while you are working on the piece.

That’s life. And that’s the nature of the material. Because of its complexity, we didn’t want to launch the product as such. Conversely, the beauty of Only Watch is in the fact that, it’s only one watch. So it gives you the opportunity to propose a masterpiece; to propose something that you cannot produce in large quantities. And that’s what we decided to do. And that somewhat answers your second question. No, it will not be available on the market, except in this auction, for the very reason that it’s such a complex watch to produce, and we cannot afford to offer it to the market openly.

Isochrono: There is just something about the marble watch that draws you in. It just looks “unclean”, “unfinished” and “complex”, yet very captivating. It has a natural draw to make one spend more time looking at it than usual.

Antoine: We like the roughness of it. We like the roughness of marble. And also because we accept it. It’s part of it. It’s an interestingly part of the product and beauty is not about perfection. There’s something more. There’s a soul and this watch has a soul. It bears the soul of Italianity. It bears the soul of Bulgari as a watchmaker today.

And it gets the respect for what it bears more than the fact that there could be some rough finishings on certain parts of the marble. It’s okay. It doesn’t change the nature of the product and the beauty of the concept, and the beauty of realizing this product. It is very beautiful and it bears the soul of Italian marble craft. 

Isochrono: Now to the second question. The main release for Bulgari for Geneva Watch Days are a pair of Octo Finissimo in a new material, CarbonGold. So can you share with us what led to the application of CarbonGold on the Octo Finissimo?

Antoine: We love playing ping pong with our past and history. So at this year’s Geneva Watch Days, we’re introducing our first publication dedicated to Bulgari watches, because we’ve been making watches for more than 100 years, which probably is not something that people would know about Bulgari. But we’ve been making watches for a long time.

In 1993, we developed a watch which was much more affordable. It was a Bulgari’s Bulgari watch – the Cold Carbon Gold. It has gold plating parts and the case was made of a composite of carbon and resin. The concept of Carbon Gold somewhat receives a short and simple highlight for Bulgari at that point. Since then, we’ve made many, many products in black with gold indexes. We explored the contrast of gold and black. Why? Because matte black and light gold and rose gold creates a contrast that is beautiful. It’s even more so with the carbon case because the surface of carbon, which is uneven, contrasts even more against the polished elements in rose gold. 

So, as we thought about how in 1993 we created the concept but didn’t push it to the limit, this time we’re making the Octo Finissimo with the case and bracelet in carbon and gold elements. The bridges of the movement itself are made of rose gold, And the oscillating way here is in platinum, but rose gold-plated platinum, to give you this full gold impression that you see also on the indexes and the crown. So we exploited the concept of carbon gold to the extreme limits.

Isochrono: This is your legacy. Can we put it this way?

Antoine: No, no, no. You can’t say it this way because that wouldn’t be true. I’m just part of the history. I’m smaller than the history of Octo Finissimo, which is a 10-year-old product and it’s still very new, but we’re building our history day after day. It’s a journey. I hope we are all contributing to building a very long story, and I hope that the story will be much bigger than any individual that is part of it. The journey long and I hope it’s really seen as a collective adventure.

Isochrono: Let’s talk about the market. What is your view regarding the recent softening of the market for both new and pre-owned watches?

Antoine: I think we have to put some perspective on the softening. It happens. Markets experience ups and downs. You see it in every market, from stock markets to real estate and everything else.
To put things in perspective, the Swiss exports have grown by 10% till date. So even if the market slows down, it is still in a very positive shape, especially when the economy is growing by 2% to 3% worldwide. So if the exports are growing by 10%, it’s much more than how the economy is performing. And this is after two years of extreme growth as well. 

So yes, there is a slowdown that we hear about on the secondary market, which is probably more of a normalization than a slowdown. It’s basically the adjustment of demand and supply. The industry was suffering a huge shortage, especially in the high-end watch sector. As you know, some brands were mentioning it very openly, and we could see some stores empty. Now we see those stores filling up progressively, and somehow clients are getting the watches they were looking for. So there is a rebalancing between the demand and the supply. Also, looking at these moments from a global economical perspective, we need to factor in interest rates, inflation etc. So that’s life. It’s a moment in the cycle.

Isochrono: Thank you for sharing your insights. Here is our last question. Can you comment on how well the Octo Finissimo line has been accepted by the market as told through the sales of this collection through the years? 

Antoine: I’m going to mention one competitor. Audemars Piguet celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak last year with the message:” From Iconoclast to Icons”, and I think you need to be an iconoclast to become an icon. You need to first surprise and create careful reactions, probably sometimes even negative sentiments, in front of innovation. And that’s the moment when you are an iconoclast. When people start to adapt and adopt the difference, the iconoclast becomes an icon. What was different became distinctive. Differences scare. Distinction elevates. And that’s what we were facing with Octo Finissimo. 

At first, it was different. It was interesting from the very first day. We had very positive feedback, but still, different, because it was totally opposite to the big bulky watches of the 2000s and 2010s. So it was very much challenging the paradigm at the time. But then we went step by step, year after year to continuously push this dimension of very slim watches – very elegant watches with the square-shaped structure; complex design with 110 facets and very monochromatic. People got used to it. 

Their first reaction was “Hmm. Interesting, but Bulgari is a jeweller, not a watchmaker”. Today, it’s becoming a watch that people want to have – must have. It’s a watch of collectors. We are meeting and gathering Bulgari Octo Finissimo collectors today. So, it has been a long journey over a short period of time. 10 years is really short in the watch industry; in the history of watches. I mean, we are talking about models like Santos that is more than 100 years old. The Serpenti is 70 years old. The BB watch is going to be 50 years old. So models with distinctive designs are taking time to become icons. We are in the process, and I’m very, very happy about that. 

Isochrono: We’ve come to the end of the interview. Well, thank you very much for having us here.

Antoine: Thank you for coming here and visiting us. And I hope you enjoy the stay in Geneva.

Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic

The Octo Roma Automatic is a handsome addition to this collection, that is the purest expression of timekeeping, with only hours, minutes, seconds and the date displayed on the dial. Measuring in at 41mm and crafted from stainless steel, its case, along with its dial also plays greatly with textures, with a Clous de Paris on the dial that provides further visual interest on a dial that is largely utilitarian in appearance. Hour markers denote the time, except for Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock. Available in three dial colour variations – blue, anthracite and white, all three have their own unique ways of playing with light. All of the hands and markers are enhanced with Super-Luminova for night-time visibility.

Powering this elegantly simple watch is the in-house Calibre BVL 191, featuring automatic winding, date, and a power reserve of 42 hours. 

All of the new Octo Roma Automatic watches come equipped with a quick-change mechanism for the bracelet, and are delivered with an additional rubber strap with a pin buckle.

Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph

Continuing the design codes from the Octo Roma Automatic, the Octo Roma Chronograph incorporates the design elements of the new watches with the additional complication of the chronograph. These codes have led the design of the chronograph to merge form, function, design and ergonomics – in particular, the chronograph pushers have been integrated into the case, so as to flow on directly from the lugs, to maintain the distinctive softer Octo Roma case shape.

The dial carries over the Clous de Paris motif from the Octo Roma Automatic, and incorporates the chronograph subdials without cluttering the dial. The chronograph minutes counter is located at 9 o’clock, at 6 o’clock is the chronograph hours sundial, and 3 o’clock is the running seconds counter. The date window snuggles in at 4:30, and does not interrupt any of the chronograph subdials – crucial when precision measurement is key.

Measuring in at a case diameter of 42mm, with a stainless steel bracelet, the Octo Roma Chronograph, like its Automatic sister, features a quick-change mechanism for the bracelet, and is delivered with an additional rubber strap with pin buckle.

Powering the watch is the in-house BVL 399, Bulgari’s very own in-house automatic chronograph movement, with a 42 hour power reserve.

Bulgari Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire

One of the Haute Horlogerie pieces unveiled by Bulgari this year at Watches and Wonders, this watch formed one half of a duo of watches that were the most modern and architectural of the Octo Roma collection, a watch playing with light, negative space and modernisation of Haute Horlogerie.

The watch itself features a flying tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, along with the hours and minutes – indeed, high complications at its best. Where this sets itself apart from the rest is its work in skeletonisation – its components seemingly floating in mid air with no discernable attachment points. A flying tourbillon in of itself seems like magic, with its single point of attachment, but the way that Bulgari has constructed and skeletonised the manufacture calibre BVL 206, it almost has been elevated to a dark art. This is further accentuated by the sapphire crystal glass back, allowing light to enter through the back, as well as its sapphire crystal case middle – a true play with light and the openness that skeletonisation provides. Titanium further provides the watch with lightness, giving the experience of lightness in weight, and airiness in its appearance.

Measuring in at 44mm in diameter, the watch is powered by the aforementioned BVL 206 manufacture movement, providing a power reserve of 64 hours. 

The watch is delivered on a modern-looking rubberised black alligator strap with neon green stitching to match the markers and hands, and is secured by a titanium folding buckle.

Conclusion

The new Octo Roma collection is a great complement to the renowned Octo collection, and makes for a more everyday alternative to the Octo Finissimo that has cemented Bulgari as one of the leaders of modern 21st Century watchmaking. Those who love style and substance will love the new Octo Roma collection for its Roman heritage, unique soft octagonal lines, and the manufacture calibres housed within. For the last decade, Bulgari has undoubtedly made a hit in the Octo line, and will continue to craft watches that utilise the rich history of Rome in terms of design and combine it with Swiss savoir-faire in watchmaking.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

OCTO ROMA – 103739 (BLUE DIAL) – 103740 (ANTHRACITE DIAL) – 103738 (WHITE DIAL)

Movement

Mechanical in-house self-winding movement, Calibre BVL 191; indication of hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 3 o’clock; movement decorated with Côtes de Genève motif and chamfering; 42-hour power reserve.

Case and dial

Stainless-steel case, 41mm in diameter, 9.15mm thick, transparent case back, screw-in steel crown with a ceramic insert, water-resistant to 100m; white, anthracite or blue dial with Clous de Paris motif; hands, metallic indexes and numerals filled with Super-LumiNova®.

Bracelet

Polished and satin-brushed stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp; interchangeability system. Additional rubber bracelet with pin buckle included.

OCTO ROMA CHRONOGRAPH – 103471 (BLACK DIAL) – 103829 (BLUE DIAL)

Movement

Mechanical in-house self-winding movement, Calibre BVL 399; chronograph function, indication of hours, minutes and small seconds, date window between 4 and 5 o’clock; movement decorated with Côtes de Genève motif and chamfering; 42-hour power reserve.

Case and dial

Stainless-steel case, 42mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, transparent case back, screw-in steel crown with a ceramic insert, water-resistant to 100m; blue or black dial with Clous de Paris motif; hands, metallic indexes and numerals filled with Super-LumiNova®.

Bracelet

Polished and satin-brushed stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp; interchangeability system. Additional rubber bracelet with pin buckle included. 

OCTO ROMA STRIKING TOURBILLON SAPPHIRE – 103914

44mm titanium case, 11.65mm thick; sapphire case middle; black DLC titanium crown with black ceramic insert, transparent case back. Water-resistant to 5 ATM. Manual winding manufacture Calibre BVL 206 with flying tourbillon; power reserve 64 hours. Green Super-LumiNova® indexes. Rubberized black alligator strap with green stitching, titanium folding buckle.

Gerald Chew (GC): As a jeweler first and foremost, Bulgari has done an amazing job over the past 10 years or so in watchmaking. The main achievement in my opinion, has been in building out a product line so compelling that the brand has been able to convince serious watch collectors to become fans and clients. How did this will to succeed outside your traditional area of jewellery come about?

Antoine Pin (Antoine): Well, obviously, I think it has to do with the definition of the traditional area. Even though we’re a jeweler by essence, we have been making watches for a long time – the first watch that we have in our museum dates from 1919.

So it’s been more than a century that we’ve been doing watches – simply because the wristwatch is a natural extension of the work of the jeweler. The wristwatch is an accessory that you’re wearing; and that you can also set with precious stones and diamonds. So even though it’s not the natural area of expertise per se, compared to jewellery making, it’s been an area of natural extension, of activity, from that moment on. Bulgari is a museum, basically, that has gathered specimens of wristwatches over the last 100 years.

I mean, the Serpenti was celebrating its 75 years anniversary; and with the Tubogas, and this was a watch as well. Those watches at the time had watch calibers, movements that were made by Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger LeCoutre etc. The connection to watchmaking has been there for a long, long time.

There was a shift in the 1980s and 1990s when the volume of activity of watches made turned us into, not by the “natural extension” I talked about, but by business category and output size, to become as much a watchmaker as a jeweler.

Obviously this led us from being just a watch assembler and trader to becoming a watchmaker and ultimately, a truly integrated watchmaker. That’s what we’ve done in the late nineties and the beginning of the new century.

Especially when we integrated Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. From that moment on, all the pieces of the jigsaw were there. We just needed to assemble the jigsaw. To basically move from a gathering of companies and suppliers that we put together to one unique entity with one unique vision. This has taken us, I would say, a good ten years until we started to develop our own collections, and our identities based on our history. Today I can very proudly say that we are clearly a watchmaker and probably one of the most integrated watchmakers in the industry. Certainly more so than what many people think.

Because again, there is the halo effect of the jeweler. If we were only a watchmaker, people would know without doubt, we would have no doubt about what we do. However there is this kind of balance between the two.

The reality is that today, Switzerland is the second country after Italy in terms of employees for Bulgari. We have more than 600 people working for Bulgari watchmaking in Switzerland. It’s a big entity. So I believe this is the success that turned us from a watch dealer to a watchmaker. And the truth is, we have a history of almost 140 years in this.

We have the power of a big, internationally renowned jeweler, but as a watchmaker per se, we are only 20 years old – and so we are as prestigious as Cartier, but as young and dynamic as MB&F, to put it another way.

So we are at a crossroads where we can merge the energy, entrepreneurship, creativity of what we call the independents, together with the prestige, the heritage and the structure of a big company. It’s a blessed position. We need to make the most of it rather than trying to be frustrated by both sides. So far, I guess the way we are moving forward is paying off because we managed to be the best of both worlds.

GC: Would you say that this was also a recipe for success in your product categories?

Antoine: I think at least it gives us a form of freedom or a willingness to prove that we are a watchmaker; a form of trust as well, that we can really push the boundaries. That’s a recipe for success, I believe: it’s this kind of self confidence and humility together. The humility of the independent brand; the self confidence of the big brands. And if we play this cocktail well, the flavor is something that is unique, a smart creativity, I guess.

GC: Smart creativity. I like that. Now, you talked about the product as something that really does well with people. They like it. There’s also the broad price range, five thousand Euros/CHF etc all the way up the range to the grand complications as well, which obviously costs a lot. Why has this broad range of products worked so well?

Antoine: I think I would add to that the complexity of who we serve. The fact that we are dressing both men and ladies in terms of categories of watches and designer watches. So in that sense, we’re a bit like every jeweler making watches. We as jewelers make watches and develop in watchmaking. I would take Cartier as, let’s say, another example. We are naturally born from our business with ladies accessories and that’s why we both started making watches for ladies first.

But then there is this natural extension to wristwatches for men as well. We are a big company with a large network and therefore access to millions of people. We believe it would be unfair to concentrate our offer only to the very top end of the range because we do not have the possibility to, let’s say, to engage/introduce many of our customers into our world of watches. When we think of the people who actually come to our stores. It’s a great opportunity to try watches at a reasonable price point. So for us, it’s important to keep this price range because we’ve done it, we’ve been successful with it, we’ve engaged many, many young people because of these factors. We also believe that there’s a mission to engage young people or people with less means and to not leave them aside; and not to be so prestigious and elitist that you eventually only talk to a minority of the population.

However I must say that it’s a challenge more than an opportunity. It’s very different to be successful in the very high end than to be successful in the entry price point. Very different. And so for me, it’s probably one of the most difficult things.

You need to shift your mind. You need to move from one of a kind pieces. Extraordinary creativity is needed, fundamentally, with no real attention paid to the cost of things. I mean, if things are expensive in the making, they will be expensive in the price point. But if they’re expensive in the making (of the watch) for good reasons, which means there’s time and effort dedicated to the craft, there is obviously a cost – the cost of the craftsman and their artistry and work. I mean, they make a living and we should pay them well.

So there is a full legitimacy. When you think of products that are much more affordable, they are sometimes very expensive. For the people who have the willingness to purchase those, that is a very difficult goal because here we need to be aware that the notion of value for money is always very important!

It is probably even more important for more affordable products because in terms relating to this buyer’s percentage of their earnings, the watch purchase will represent much more for this segment of the population.

GC: How have you succeeded in these areas? What do you have to do to fix your priorities?

Antoine: In the new Octo Roma, I mean, it’s very much what I’ve mentioned. We believe that there is a price point that we should not cross. We wanted to remain reasonable in pricing at around 7,500CHF for the watch, which is already a big sum of money. We need to always remember this – that people who go for such a watch – they are spending a lot of their earnings and dedicating it to the watch.

It’s important to be able to keep this in mind. It’s a complex answer to provide you because when we think of the construction and the design first and the production or industrialisation following after becomes more and more efficient if we get that developmental process right. We consider factors like: how smart are we in our production process? How can we standardize some elements, some production processes? How can we use very modern machines that can efficiently do some of the functions, particularly for the production of spare parts, for example?

For instance, can we re-purpose elements in the Octo Finissimo, and its caliber etc or anything like that? So it’s really looking for elements of cost efficiency, actually working on the quality of a caliber: so that the regulating process of the calibers is fast, for instance.

We go very much into the details to ensure that we provide value for money. This is why, in the Octo Roma we introduced the interchangeable strap, which is a very easy system. In addition, we offer the bracelet as well as the strap from the very first day. These offers of value are particularly important for this product as we are competing in a very hot market with very experienced houses like Cartier, Omega and Rolex offering beautifully crafted products. We need to be up to that level and that’s what we try to do.

GC: Is there anything from a business perspective you think you might want to work on or improve?

Antoine: I think we’re looking for recognition as a watchmaker, of the work done by our current team and their predecessors. We are both Italian and Swiss; both a jeweler and a watchmaker. To be recognised by the public as excellent in both fields is what I want for Bulgari. I mean, we don’t want to lose our identity, but we want people to think that Bulgari has this capacity to deliver extraordinary watches as much as extraordinary jewelry.

GC: Any other goals that you want to achieve?

Antoine: Lots of them, but some that I can’t share with you. What I can say is I believe that today there is a benefit in being a leader in this category. There are different kinds of leadership. Not necessarily in the sales, but it can also be sales in one price segment. But clearly there is a benefit in terms of visibility, traction, talents, and attraction.

And so clearly, for us, the idea is really to stand out in different segments, and particularly the segment of what I call high horology, high jewellery watches. So those watches mix both crafts with such a level of mastery that almost no one can match what we do, except maybe again, Cartier.

So for us, being able to elevate our watchmaking skills to the level of our jewellery skills is very important. There are very few ladies watches that have both complications in addition to being fully decorated and set with precious stones for example. This is where we want to be recognized – as by far the leading brand providing more and more mechanical calibers to ladies watches like Piccolissimo, like Precious Naturalia, like the Octo Roma Tourbillon Lumiere.

GC: You’re not part of Watches and Wonders this year. Is there any particular reason?

Antoine: Having looked at the way things were, with the experience of last year and expectations around this year, we wanted to build an environment that is extremely welcoming, comfortable, easy, in a way, even if you have to drive to get here. The location at President Wilson gives us a smooth way to manage the experience and we feel very comfortable here.

As you can see, there’s a lot of daylight which facilitates a perfect appreciation of the products. It’s quiet. We try to build some kind of cocoon-like space where you forget about time to enjoy and appreciate us, without the pressure and the stress of a salon and that’s why we’re here.

We want to bring you the best experience, be it in terms of products, or in terms of connection with us. There is a very large space around us. It’s not tight – tight in time, tight in space, tight in questions. We love this Italian way of experiencing things and to share it.

GC: Tell me more about what you are showing this year?

Antoine: Yes, we are presenting this new Octa Roma version. A new version of the Octa Roma that was launched eleven years ago. After the Octa Roma was launched, we concentrated our work on Octo Finissimo. We pushed, pushed, pushed. Our direction went slimmer, slimmer, we worked out the whole scope. We dedicated all our energy to the Octo Finissimo and its complications until we reached the Ultra Thin last year. Then we took a step back and we thought of Octo Roma.

Actually, we did work a lot on it already. We introduced a new Minute Repeater and Grand Sonnerie. We introduced the Striking Time in 2017, but we haven’t touched the watch since. And we’ve changed a lot in ten years. So it was time to step back and to think, okay, what do we bring to Octo Roma to update it to today’s standards, but also to, today’s Bulgari standards in watchmaking. In capitalising on those ten years, there’s plenty of details that we’ve changed. We’ve completely redesigned the watch. It’s very subtle. But you’re looking to make a watch that is right and balanced, and that’s what we’ve done.

So I’m showing you the previous model. If you look at this model versus the previous model, and if you look at the case, and if you touch it, you can feel the refinements, the softness, the difference with the angles.

Yes, also in the thickness as well. Everything’s been designed to bring more elegance, comfort, and wearability. We have improved finishing on the dial with the little guilloche, which is somewhat attributed to traditional watchmaking. The more confident we are with our products, the more techniques we manage internally, the more we can also connect to our Swiss roots as much as our Italian roots represented by the Octo shape.

It’s us, it’s our Octo family. It’s a different version that is more versatile, more universal in a way – more accessible not only from a price point perspective, but also from a design perspective. It matches the standard taste, but it’s also a shape that can welcome very technical designs and aesthetics and calibers, very high end calibers as well.

And also it’s welcoming to our new in-house chronograph, where the pushers are very nice to operate: beautiful pushers, positioned very high compared to traditional pushers. So actually we have cams and levers which facilitate the perfect, easy pressure. We worked a lot between the watchmakers, the constructor and the design studio to make this happen.

GC: And of course, with Octo Finissimo having won so many awards, the expectation now for Bulgari as a watchmaker is very high. Is this expectation always in your mind when you produce something new?

Antoine: Sometimes these kinds of projects are as, if not more, difficult than Ultra Thin. With the Ultra Thin, there is no competition. You’re pushing yourself, but you’re in the field where actually, because you have your expertise, you know how far you can go further. So of course you’re pushing, but it’s under control after a certain time.

Whereas here, you’re in a segment that is highly competitive with extraordinary benchmarks. So to be able to propose something that gives the impression that it’s right, it’s proper, it’s pertinent, is very difficult. In both cases, we are clearly addressing different challenges, but in both cases, we’re facing challenges for sure.

GC: Last question. In terms of market share or some kind of volume, what would you like to achieve?

Antoine: What I can tell you is that we have the potential to grow very significantly. We’re going to invest in our manufacturing, processes, resources and tools very significantly to match the demand. Finally, just being among the leaders of the industry is our ambition.

GC: Thank you Antoine for this interview and hope to see you again soon!

Welcome to Singapore for the LVMH Watch Week 2023 Fabrizio! What has your experience been of coming to Singapore for this event?

I think it’s amazing after four years to be back in Singapore. For me, I am very happy about that. It is important to be here in person after two years of Zoom calls. I know that Singapore has historically been one of the most important markets in the world, especially considering the evolution of watchmaking in the last 20 years. My last trip here was in 2018 – somewhat a long time ago – I’m very happy to be here again.

For the first event in 2023, we decided to focus on the feminine side of Bulgari watchmaking, namely, the jewellery watches. The most important novelties here include the new evolution of the Serpenti Tubogas – for the first time, coming with a diamond setting on the bracelet. So it’s the beginning of a big chapter in jewellery watches, signalled by this new Turbogas.

Since we’re on the subject of the watches, would you like to take me on a quick tour of what is in the offering for LVMH 2023?

Yes. We introduce the new Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Infinity. With a brand new bracelet set with diamonds for the first time. So we completely changed the construction of the bracelet – it’s not anymore constructed like the previous Tubogas bracelet. It’s more like a new form.

Each gold element that forms a bracelet link sits free on the titanium module within (that is holding the construction together as its spine). The roll of the gold elements turns around the flexible module, but this time each gold element link is independent of each other. This way, we can remove a link or links; we can change the colours; we can change the stones. It’s more versatile. It’s modular. So we can play with different elements to change the feel and the look.

The other watch that we present is, the evolution in terms of the dial, our cocktail watch called Divas’ Dream, the round shaped watch with the small jewels around. It is a very successful line. We started with the production of this line more than ten years ago. Thanks to Divas’ Dreamtime, with this design, we won our first GPHG award in Geneva with the full diamond and emerald version. So this is a very important line for us. It’s easy to wear, very cute, with the opportunity to play with several elements on the bezel, the dial, the stones around the watch and even the patterns. So, here, we have two different executions – One with the malachite and the stones and the other one with diamonds and ruby.

The other watches that we present are an evolution of our Mosaica concept. It’s a pattern with the petals, the same triangular element even on the dial – for the first time with brilliant cut diamonds with different colours on the dial, case and bracelet.

What is special about the connection between jewellery watches and Bulgari?

Firstly, Bulgari is unique in that we are able to produce the watch movement in Switzerland; and the jewellery part of the watch in Italy. We have a jewellery atelier in Rome. We also have one of the biggest jewellery production sites in the north of Italy, one of the biggest in Europe.

Secondly, the aesthetics. Look at this Divas’ Dream watch. It’s absolutely unique in the blend between the geometry of the watch design, and the different cuts, colours and shapes of stones. It’s absolutely Bulgari . The way it plays with materials, in a simple yet sophisticated way. It all comes off as a seemingly simple, elegant yet beautiful product. However, this is very difficult to achieve because, as you can see, the bezel moves with the wearer’s hands, it’s not rigid. This bezel took a long time in the design process and manufacturing execution – but we’re very happy about the result because when you put it on the wrist, it’s absolutely unique. It’s easy to wear, it’s colourful, it’s joyful! (Find out more about all the Bulgari novelties via link below)

Tell us more about the research and development that goes into these watches.

We have to do a lot of research when it comes to the precious stones. In the Divas’ Dream, for example, in terms of shape, size, quality, grades, colours, in order to find the right combination between all these.

But honestly, the Serpenti Tubogas is one of the most difficult bracelets that we have done. It took two and a half years of development to find the right thickness to the links, to find the right size of stones. Each link is different in terms of size because the neck is very wide and the tail is very narrow. So we have a lot of different links. In addition, it takes a lot of work to ensure that the presentation of the whole design as it is worn on the wrist moves like the body of a snake. It adds another layer of complexity. For the jewellery watches, the most difficult part sometimes, let me say, more than often, is to find the right colour and stones that we have in mind, with the right quality.

You speak a lot about Italy as the centre of your inspiration. Tell us more about this and its influence.

It's difficult to say because now it's part of my DNA. I’m Italian, I think that I design Italian things. Bulgari is an Italian brand that comes from Rome. So it has a very unique aesthetic sense, a very unique sense for proportions. We have a very unique idea of colour. I think you can see this kind of approach reflected in our watches and in our products.

What has been your most proud achievement at Bulgari to date?

I think the Serpenti Tubogas and the Octo Finissimo. Serpenti is the biggest franchise of the company and everything that happened in the company, in terms of watches, started and evolved around Serpenti from 2010 onwards. Another phase of growth came with the Octo Finissimo which recently everyone knows a lot about!

When you hold and wear these watches, there could be no doubt that these are Bulgari watches! You speak about designing the watch as a whole object - as opposed to the watch head and a bracelet or strap as separate elements.

Yes it is all about integration, or if you are not able to have integration, disassembly. I don’t like anything in between….for me that is a bit strange.

The idea of matching different materials, different shapes, different colours, different stones in a unique way - is absolutely Bulgari. I love these watches because they are a combination of geometry and gemstones.

How and why do you decide on a new variation or direction of the line?

Honestly, we try all the time to be inventive. For example we try to reinvent the Octo Finissimo through different materials, different dials, and through different opportunities - the partnership with important architects and designers - (Kazuyo) Sejima, and Tadao Ando, for example. So each time we collaborate with an artist or company to make a new edition, I have to see that the watch evolves in a different way. This is my objective. If we have to make a limited edition, we have to make something that makes sense, that changes the perception of the watch, changes the aesthetics. It is good when this happens because the rules, the geometry of the Octo Finissimo are very strict and very rigid.

How do you select your collaborators?

Actually it is they who make a proposition!! We see if this could be good, exciting, in line with the aesthetic and identity of the family and brand. The problem you have as the maker is that when you are too close, you don’t necessarily end up making a new edition that is exciting. So finding the right partner, the right guest designer, elevates the whole watch.

I do want to ask a retrospective question regarding the 10th Anniversary Sketch edition. How did this come about?

We tried several ideas before and I was dissatisfied with the way things were going. There was a suggestion to use one of the first sketches that we made of the Octo Finissimo. My first instinct was to refuse the idea. But we started to find the sketches; and then made several prototypes. At the end, the idea was very well appreciated. For me, it's wild. The appreciation was amazing. Very important and cultivated collectors have said that they had never seen something like that.

How much does the response from the industry as well as from collectors influence your design?

It does in a very conscious way. A lot of the time. At the beginning of the creative process, the idea is very fragile. That's why often creative people don’t want to talk about ideas at this stage because it's at the beginning and it's very easy to receive the wrong comments that change the mind; to see the things in a different way than originally intended. When the idea has gone through a lot of process, thinking and experimentation, you can show it. But at the beginning, it's riskier.

So at which point would you feel comfortable?

Personally, when we are able to imagine a lineup! I'm interested more in creating a lineup so that the idea works with different executions. For me, this is a good idea. If the idea works just with one execution, it means that it's just one project. These are two different approaches - so it depends on what we are looking for to do
Speaking of the lineup, what is next for the Jewellery Watches and Octo Finissimo?

It's two different paths. For the jewellery watches the challenge is combining a lot of different knowhow, different craftsmen, technical and creative aspects. To be able to create a watch which is also an amazing piece of jewellery. Furthermore it has to look and feel good on the wrist. Thereafter we have to think about what happens with use - durability or repairs etc. With these considerations we arrive at the right quality, the right price, the right emotion expressed in the watch. Sometimes, compared to Octo Finissimo, the jewellery watches can be more difficult to do.

You have the might of Bulgari behind you. Surely that helps?

It's a big advantage because sometimes the design can be assessed quickly by the manufacture if it works well or not. They already know how to make it. So we are very lucky because we have the agility of a small independent brand, but with an important great machine behind it.

What have you noticed about men getting into jewellery watches? Will you make men’s jewellery watches?

This is one of the most interesting development trends. There is a lot of feedback for this.

To me, it’s more a matter of cultural approach. In Europe there is not so much a preference in men’s watches for this but on the other side of the world yes, there is! Things are more fluid. I noticed during dinners in Asia that gentlemen are comfortable using beautiful pieces - brooches, rings, some necklaces - there is more of a market for these kinds of products in Asia and we have some very important gentlemen clients who want jewellery in watches. We received a lot of requests about Finissimo with baguettes, diamonds, for example. We will see….

If you can reveal what your next ambitions are? You have won so many world records.

My next ambition is jewellery or ladies watches. It is the most difficult part. You need to find an idea. Otherwise you make just another product. I want to make something that is more common, mainstream, but at the same time, absolutely unique! With very important 'qualities’. This is the most difficult thing to do. Every watchmaking brand is looking for the same. If nobody is able to do it, there is a reason - it's extremely difficult to find this magic combination!

Diva’s Dream 

This latest release from Bulgari not only showcases the brand’s strength in High Jewellery, but has also incorporated this into a watch with a kinetic sculpture for the wrist. With a case crafted in 18 karat Rose Gold, the petals surrounding the mother-of-pearl dial are shaped like a ginkgo leaf that symbolise the union of opposites. A flick of the wrist sends these petals fluttering, allowing the piece to further play with light through the movement of its gem-set petals.

Three models were officially unveiled at LVMH Watch Week – a model with topaz and tanzanite for a blue hue, a second model with amethyst and tourmaline for a mauve feel, and a diamond and ruby model for a passionate statement piece, or one that would be right at home for a Lunar New Year celebration.

A fourth model was spotted with malachite and magenta gemstones giving the feel of a verdant garden.

Diva’s Dream Mosaica

A combination of High Jewellery and Fine Watchmaking, the Diva’s Dream Mosaica takes its inspiration from the Baths of Caracalla, with its fan shaped tessellation that is fully gem set and shows the full force of Bulgari’s expertise. Two models were unveiled at LVMH Watch Week – a  rose gold model with pink sapphires that displays a gradient of colour from pink to magenta and is delivered on an alligator leather strap with diamond set folding clasp, and a sapphire model crafted in white gold with a full diamond bracelet that is expertly set by Bulgari’s jewelers.

In particular, the sapphire model boasts an impressive number of gemstones, totalling approximately 7.8cts of diamonds and 3ct of blue sapphires. Topping these models off is a cabochon cut sapphire in the crown – a Bulgari signature.

Powering these models is the Manufacture BVL 191 that is expertly decorated, automatically wound and displaying the hours and minutes – a perfect blend of watchmaking savoir-faire and the precision of high jewellery.

Allegra

Having made its first debut in the Summer of 2022, two new models in this collection make their debut in a flurry of colour. The embodiment of the sentiment “Time is a Jewel”, the Allegra models unveiled at the LVMH Watch Week explode in a technicolour dream of all shapes and sizes. This new collection incorporates tourmaline, peridot, citrines and rhodolites in varying styles of cut that are a result in a kaleidoscope of hues that celebrate the joie de vivre.

These cocktails of coloured gemstones are delivered on an elegant alligator strap with a diamond set ardillon buckle, and powered by a quartz movement.

Serpenti Tubogas Infinity

The virtues of perpetual rebirth, wisdom and vitality embodied by the serpent have always fascinated the brand, and its first watches in this form were released in 1948 in a very similar form that is seen today. The Serpenti’s distinctive Tubogas bracelet involves several metres of gold or steel wire being coiled into the desired shape, thus giving it flexibility and the ability to be shaped into different forms. 

The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity features a new construction – with rings in the shape of the snake assembled onto a titanium blade which gives the bracelet its flexibility. Each ring is of a unique dimensions, which is moulded, before being polished and gem set. This construction has then allowed the motif of the snake to continue down the bracelet with gem setting, following its own line down the bracelet. The “head” of the snake has a diamond set bezel, and a snow-set dial further adding to its distinctive look. This model is available in two variations, the single-tour bracelet and the double-tour bracelet versions, both powered by a Bulgari-personalised quartz movement.

Bulgari’s ladies models are full of extravagance and passion, celebrating their Roman roots, whilst continuing to defy expectations of how ladies watches should be made. Our better halves deserve designs for themselves, and Bulgari makes no apologies in making watches for ladies so distinctively feminine, yet so overtly powerful.

Geneva Watch Days sees the unveiling of an Octo Finissimo with a new movement, two new twists on classics, and a collaboration with famed architect Kazuyo Sejima.

Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days

Starting off the releases with a bang, the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days introduces a long power reserve to its famed Octo Finissimo collection. The movement is skeletonised to create a complementary angular style on the plates and bridges of the movement, playing with light and transparency on the dial.

Housed within its distinctive 40mm Octo case in rose gold, the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days also manages to work a power reserve indicator in a way that is unobtrusive, and in keeping with its principles of design.

Above the small seconds indicator, is a gauge that shows the power reserve through a retrograde disc hidden under the dial.

Even with a massive power reserve, the manually-wound BVL 199 SK enables the watch to remain ultra-slim – at a thickness of only 5.95mm. A sapphire crystal back further enhances the skeletonisation work, and the watch is delivered on a brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle.

Octo Finissimo Gold – Octo Finissimo Automatic and Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

Two outstanding members of the Octo Finissimo collection receive the golden treatment for the 10 year anniversary of ground-breaking watchmaking. These two models pay tribute to the 8 world records set by the collection that include the two models released for this celebration. 

The Octo Finissimo Automatic set its world record in 2017, with its BVL Calibre 138 measuring in at only 2.23mm tall. At the time of its release, the world had not seen anything like it, which was due in part to its design – many other ultra-slim watches were immensely classical in nature, and to have such a 70’s chic about the shape of an ultra-slim watch was highly unusual at the time. The Octo Finissimo Automatic has now become an icon for Bulgari, cementing its place in watchmaking history. In 2022, the Octo Finissimo Automatic comes in Rose Gold, with a brown lacquered dial featuring a sunburst finish that complements the satin brushed angular Octo case, and its bracelet.

The BVL Calibre 138 that ticks away inside is the same as its original record-breaking model that was released in 2017, however, has had some minor upgrades to its automatic winding system and structural updates to the escapement and balance wheel.

The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT has always been the watch in the collection with the most utility, housing two additional complications in the form of a Chronograph and GMT function. The watch first set its record in 2019, and we can with certainty – at the time of writing – that it remains the record holder to this day. Being the more utilitarian version of the Octo Finissimo, the dial of the watch features applied numerals – along with the hands of the watch, they are both filled with SuperLuminova for legibility at night. Like the Octo Finissimo Automatic, the dial is a brown lacquered dial with a sunburst finish, accentuating the colour of the case and brown alligator leather strap. The watch has its chronograph pushers on the right side of the case, and the protrusion on the left side is the pusher to adjust the second time zone.

Housed within the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is the BVL Calibre 318, with its distinctive peripheral rotor that enables its slimness in construction, whilst offering automatic winding.

Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition

Much like how Rome’s architecture has inspired millions, Bulgari has also been fascinated with architecture and brought awareness of amazing architects to more people, as seen in their last collaboration pieces with Tadao Ando. At Geneva Watch Days 2022, Bulgari unveils a new collaboration with Kazuyo Sejima, the second woman to win the Pritzker Prize for Architecture in 2010.

Her inspiration was the material and transparency, the visible and the invisible, which resulted in a version of the Octo Finissimo that is highly polished to a mirror-like finish, with a reflective effect on the sapphire crystal dial enhanced by a dot pattern designed by Sejima herself.

Turning the watch over, we see a sapphire crystal dial that bears her signature, with the BVL Calibre 138 in the background. Limited to 360 pieces worldwide, the watch is another great collaboration with a legendary architect – a piece that is sure to generate conversation when seen in the wild.

Bulgari’s Octo collection has seen some amazing years of progress and record-breaking endeavours, and there can be no doubt that the collection has cemented itself into watchmaking history as watches that push the boundaries of what is possible. It has also served as a canvas for architects and artists to display their vision of this watch, enabling them to play with design and materials to heighten the design of the Octo collection. We are sure that this collection has a bright future ahead, and we cannot wait to see future iterations of the Octo collection.

Technical Specifications

Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days – 103667

Movement

Mechanical Manufacture ultra-thin movement with manual winding; Caliber BVL 199 SK with small seconds and power reserve indicator, anthracite PVD skeletonized bridges, 2.50mm thick, 36.60 mm in diameter, 21,600 V/H, 8 days (192 hours) power reserve.

Case, dial and strap

40mm satin-polished rose gold case, transparent case-back, 5.95mm thick; rose gold crown with black ceramic insert; water- resistant to 30m; openworked dial with power reserve indicator and small seconds counter, BVLGARI eight days logo, gold-colored hands, and applied indexes. Dark brown alligator strap with pin buckle. 

Octo Finissimo Automatic – 103637

Movement

Mechanical Manufacture ultra-thin movement with automatic winding via a platinum micro- rotor; Caliber BVL 138 with small seconds, 2.23mm thick, 36.60 mm in diameter, 21,600 V/H, 60h power reserve.

Case, dial and strap

40mm satin-polished 18kt rose gold case, transparent case-back, 6.40mm thick; 18 kt rose gold crown with black ceramic insert; water-resistant to 100m; brown lacquered dial with sunray finishing, gold-colored hands and indexes. Satin-polished 18 kt rose gold bracelet with 3-blade folding buckle. 

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic – 103468

Movement

Mechanical in-house chronograph and GMT movement with automatic winding (peripheral oscillating weight) and small seconds – BVL 318 caliber (3.30mm thick). 55-hour power reserve; local time zone adjusted via the pushbutton at 9 o’clock.

Case, dial and strap

43 mm satin-polished rose gold case (8.75 mm thick) with transparent case back; rose gold crown set with black ceramic insert; brown lacquered dial with sunray finishing, rose gold applied indexes with Super-LumiNova®; hands filled with Super-LumiNova®, water- resistant to 100 meters. Brown alligator strap with rose gold pin buckle. 

Octo Finissimo Automatic Sejima Edition – 103710

Movement

Mechanical Manufacture ultra-thin movement with automatic winding via a platinum micro- rotor; Caliber BVL 138 with small seconds, 2.23mm thick, 36.60 mm in diameter, 21,600 V/H, 60h power reserve.

Case, dial and strap

40mm polished steel case, transparent case- back with Sejima signature, 6.40mm thick; steel crown with black ceramic insert; water- resistant to 100m; polished dial with mirror- effect, rhodium-plated hands, sapphire crystal with metallized dots. Polished steel bracelet with 3-blade folding buckle.

Limited edition of 360 pieces. Special packaging in steel with a mirror effect.

ISOCHRONO: One of the greatest feats of Bulgari has been to convince watch collectors that it is not just a jewelry brand but a legitimate watchmaker of the highest order. What do you think?

Fabrizio Buonamassa: I totally agree because this has been the biggest effort that we have undertaken over the last 15 years. I think that today, especially with the Octo Finissimo collection, we have completely changed the perception of the watch market to the point where we now can interact with very important collectors about watches in a way that wasn’t possible in the past.

We started the Octo journey 15 years ago and this was after we discovered the amazing knowhow in our facilities in Le Sentier. Thanks to the heritage of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, brands that we acquired in 2000, we decided to use this foundation to develop our own path.

Yes, it’s amazing what you’ve done with famed watch designer Gerald Genta’s Octo case.

The most incredible thing we discovered is how versatile the eight sided Octo case shape is. Gerald Genta’s original design was very unique as it had a square case with a round bezel, and each time when we change the material and finishing of an Octo case, we can get a totally different watch. The versatility of the design was for us the biggest surprise

Because we were completely free to imagine our own way, we started to talk about how the new Octo Finissimo would take a totally different approach, in comparison with other ultra thin watches that were mostly round in shape. I think this is the most important part of the story because when you are obsessed with copying others, you are always behind, and this is not interesting for the watch collector.

So the idea was to create a new way to wear an ultra thin watch, with a metal integrated bracelet that would be done in a very contemporary and modern way. That’s what I think is the secret behind what the Octo Finissimo has become today. The other point is that the accompanying movement and the overall aesthetics were also brand new. Unlike other situations when a watch brand brings out a beautiful watch with a very old movement, or sometimes an ugly watch with a very beautiful movement. With the Octo however, every element, from external design to internal mechanics, would be new and would both be at the same high level in terms of aesthetics and performance.

Was there doubt in the beginning whether the concept of the Octo Finissimo would work?

For sure, the approach was new at the time and we didn’t know how people would react to the reimagined Octo case. I mean, on the surface, it’s difficult to imagine how such an architectural case, with many facets and angles, and with a very strong design, could be made easy to wear in an ultra thin watch. But we knew it was possible and we decided to follow our instinct.

I felt that you went to the top of the mountain in terms of watchmaking, with the world’s thinnest tourbillon in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in 2014 (5.0mm thick), then two years later in 2016 with the world’s thinnest minute repeater in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater (6.85mm thick).

Yes, people were impressed but they were still not totally convinced. The first reaction was “Yes, but they are only able to make 30 pieces!” The second time with the minute repeater, it was, “Yes, so they’re able to make 30 more pieces!” Our big milestone however was the Octo Finissimo Automatic in Titanium in 2017.

Why was this so? Because at the beginning we created the aesthetic of the ultra thin watch with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, second we created the minute repeater in titanium, and third, we finally introduced a watch that everyone could wear with the same amazing aesthetics.

How has the Octo journey been over the years?

It’s been a nonstop effort to push it through. I think ultimately, we have had to trust the process, find the idea, then make the watches and keep going even if people are not convinced. We’ve spent 10 years already and we’ve finally gotten to the 10th anniversary of the Octo Finissimo today.

Now we are at the stage where we are talking about the watch becoming, possibly, a new watchmaking icon, and mind you, this is from the opinion of experienced collectors, and even among new, younger collectors. Ultimately, I think if the project was not important for us, for sure it would not be important to the watch collector, and that is key.

You mentioned a few times how Bulgari watches have found appeal among younger watch collectors.

Certainly, I think the appeal is in the sporty design, compared to other ultra thin watches that are more formal. For these clients, it is a watch they discover, and a watch that begins their journey as a watch collector. In the future, it will become part of their heritage as a collector. In fact, I’ve met quite a few young watch collectors who tell me that they have more than one Octo Finissimo in their collections.

From your point of view you’ve seen a lot of positive response over the years for the Octo Finissimo. I myself have seen the Octo Finissimo appearing on the wrists of watch collectors around me in Singapore. It’s amazing to me how you have managed to change the perception of the market from Bulgari being just a jeweler to also a legitimate watchmaker.

For us, this was a big step because Bulgari is one of the most important jewelers in the world. When we presented the Octo Finissimo Automatic, we immediately started to receive comments about it being a new “icon”, and how it was the most incredible watch released in the last 50 years. This is fine. These are points of view afterall. But when very important collectors who are known for the acquisition of the finest watches ever made, both vintage and contemporary, start having the same opinion, or when they start to say that they have to buy an Octo Finissimo for their collections, then it means something.

What then would you say to people who are not convinced about the Octo Finissimo yet?

Of course, it’s likely that they are not convinced because it is an uncommon design. To this I will tell them, “Just try one on.”

I have had many clients who have told me that they like the look of the watch but that it is not for them. When this happens, I take the watch off my wrist and ask them to try it on and the response is always one of amazement.

I think perhaps in pictures, the Octo Finissimo looks bigger than in reality, and thus cannot convey the feeling when you put the watch on the wrist with the amazingly smooth bracelet. One common response from clients is how nice the feeling is in having a watch like this under their shirt cuff. It’s definitely something that is very rare among watches on an integrated bracelet, and the realisation of this fact can only come when the watch is on the wrist.

Furthermore, on the wrist the client is able to feel how super comfortable and super well done the bracelet is in terms of the smoothness of the surfaces. Even myself, honestly I don’t like watches on a bracelet as I prefer leather straps generally because you can play with different colours and textures of the leather.

The Octo Finissimo bracelet however, is something else, and I actually prefer it over the leather strap. In fact most clients who get it on the leather strap return to buy the bracelet from the boutique. Today 80% of the clients who buy an Octo Finissimo do so with the bracelet and that says something about how good it is.

I think one of the things that not many people are aware of as well is how well engineered your movements are, in terms of rigidity, quality and reliability.

We spent many years developing our movements and let me say, we are at the second stage of the Octo Finissimo, it’s still a young baby to us, but today, we have started to pay more attention to refine the overall quality of the product.

When we say quality, I think we are beyond talking about the movement, to us, it’s more about the finishing and the details. This extends to how we think about polishing the case, the ergonomics when wearing the watch, the thickness of the leather strap, etc.

In the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days for example, we have completely redesigned the movement. We moved from satin soleil finishing because it’s so reflective that it’s difficult to read the time previously to this, where we use applied indexes that stand out against the skeleton movement. Also another detail that you will notice is that we have taken the first link that comes from the metal bracelet and attached it to an alligator strap. I love this configuration because I think it’s very elegant and sporty at the same time, and furthermore, when you put it on the wrist, it is super comfortable and very light weight.

This Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days for me is currently the best Octo Finissimo that we’ve ever made, in terms of design and in terms of the performance of the movement. Overall we are satisfied with where we are. But as this watch shows, our focus is on improving all the individual elements, from the performance of the movement, to the quality of the finishing, and to a more comfortable feel of the bracelet and buckle on the wrist.

Overall, it is a difficult thing to do, because we have started to get a lot of requests from clients with interesting ideas, and we also have problems with capacity because of the demand for the watches from the market.

What are the coming goals of Bulgari as a watchmaker?

The direction is always to improve every single design detail of the Octo Finissimo.

When we wanted to create the Octo Finissimo S, the idea was to have a similar watch to the original Octo Finissimo in Titanium, but a little bit thicker (6.4mm vs 5.15mm) so that it could have 100 metres of water resistance (versus 30 metres) along with a screw down crown for more versatile everyday use.

We found out when we did this that the watch market is split into two. On the one hand you have the watch collectors who told us not to touch the original Octo Finissimo in Titanium as they were not interested in water resistance or a screw down crown because they had other watches to wear when swimming. On the other hand, this new Octo Finissimo S, was welcomed enthusiastically by another type of client, and these were newer watch collectors who indeed wanted something more versatile for everyday use, just like our original intention.

Because of this, we realized that trying to make every Octo Finissimo in our collections in the same way, with 100 metres water resistance was not the right approach. Instead, each model has to be done in its own way, exploring the possibilities in terms of materials and finishing.

For example, the Octo Finissimo Sejima Limited Edition is made of stainless steel but the finish is executed in an unconventional way. Everything is in full polish, the case, the bracelet, the dial and the hands, and the effect is mesmerizing. It’s still the same Octo Finissimo case shape that we know, but the feeling of this watch is so different.

As a watch designer, this is what is interesting to me, creating a different effect from different types of ingredients, and using the same case to show the limits of what it can do.

I believe that the Octo Finissio has the potential to become an icon in watchmaking, what are your thoughts?

Thank you so much. We shall see and we shall hope. As of today, I think that the Octo Finissimo is definitely a trendsetter. We see this because of other prestigious brands going in the direction of integrated bracelet watches in ultra thin execution after it came out. Before Bulgari, the world of ultra thin watches was dominated by brands like Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, but what they mainly offered were watches in a traditional round case with a thin bezel, and usually worn on a black alligator strap. All in all, watches that you would wear a tuxedo with, all very formal and very elegant.

The Octo Finissimo changed all that, and showed the world how good a sporty watch could look when done in the ultra thin genre, with a modern and contemporary feel, and furthermore in our technical abilities, as a basis for ultra thin grand complications. Beyond looks however, it’s an amazing pleasure to wear a watch like this everyday.

In order to create ultra-thin watches, tolerances must be squeezed, and full use of the geometry of the movement and case must be utilised to their fullest. It is also a display of how well engineers and watchmakers work together to create these pieces that offer a glimpse into the problems that engineers solve, and the skills that watchmakers possess to assemble these pieces.

For the Octo Finissimo Ultra, an additional constraint was added, in that the design of the timepiece had to adhere to the strict aesthetic codes of the Octo Finissimo case. With the amount of work that goes into engineering and assembling ultra-thin timepieces, one could say they are a complication in themselves.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra measures in at 40mm, in an unusual combination of materials for its case – titanium and tungsten carbide for the base (more on this later). The case is impossibly thin – 1.80mm in thinness, giving the illusion of looking at a few stacked sheets of paper. Retaining its architectural design inspiration, the case still features its famous angular design, originally conceived by Gerald Genta. The dial is unusual in its layout – timekeeping indications are to the right of the watch, with the hours and minutes at the top right, and the seconds indicator at the bottom right. The left side of the watch appears to be occupied by a relatively large barrel with a QR code engraved onto it, and the balance wheel beating away at 28,800 vph. The hands and markers are black PVD coated to enhance legibility of the monochromatic watch, reinforcing the aesthetic codes of the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The watch is delivered on a titanium bracelet that matches the watch – impossibly thin, and its clasp re-engineered to accommodate the thin profile of the watch.

The BVL Calibre 180 powering the watch is quite literally the entirety of the watch itself – the baseplate of the movement is the back of the watch, which explains why it is crafted out of tungsten carbide. This material provides the much-needed rigidity that an ultra-thin watch requires for it to even be strapped onto the wrist. The rest of the case (the case-middle, bezel and lugs) are executed in titanium as separate components that attach to the tungsten carbide base. In developing this watch, many traditional components are rethought to save space within the movement. As such, some components need to serve multiple functions, with the dial becoming a place for time-telling, but also a place to hold components in place as a secondary function. Unusually, the crown does not use a traditional layout in a vertical position – rather, to keep the watch ergonomically sleek and its functions protected, the winding and setting functions are separated into two horizontally placed knobs, one for each function. 

Curiously, the ratchet wheel features the engraving of a QR code. Bulgari has stated that this is a way for them to connect the physical and the digital, through the use of NFTs. The QR code will be linked to the watch, with an exclusive artwork to be supplied with each watch. The watch effectively becomes the digital “vault” containing this artwork, forever connecting art and timepiece. Overall, 8 patents have been applied for this watch alone. These include: watch glass assembly, barrel structure, oscillator module, differential display, modular case structure, bracelet, bimetal case middle-mainplate-caseback and software (presumably for the NFT technology housed within the ratchet wheel).

Limited to 10 pieces worldwide, never before has a watch been so connected to the past, present and future, and as we said before, Bulgari has proven that less is truly more with innovation in ultra-thin construction. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra incorporates watchmaking savoir-faire, the challenge-seeking engineers and modern artworks immortalised in NFT technology, making this watch one for the ages. 

Technical Specifications

OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA – 103611

Movement

Mechanical ultra-thin Manufacture manual- winding movement – BVL Calibre 180. Winding and time-setting wheels in stainless steel; seconds display directly on the fourth wheel; ratchet wheel engraved with unique QR code that links to an exclusive NFT artwork. 50-hour power reserve; 28,800 VPH (4 Hz) frequency.

Case and dial

40 mm sandblasted titanium case and tungsten carbide plate with anthracite DLC treatment (1.80 mm thick); hours and minutes counters, black PVD-treated hands.

Bracelet

Ultra-thin titanium bracelet with integrated folding clasp.

Limited edition of 10.