As a physiology major in university, Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy played a large part in our studies. A genetic disorder affecting mainly boys, its effect on growing children is devastating, as muscle membrane proteins are unable to repair effectively. Currently, gene therapy is undergoing trials in patients, and it has shown some promise in increasing muscle strength – however, there is still much work to be done in this field in order to develop new therapies for this affliction. 

Every two years, the watch world together with the Association Monegasque contre les Myopathies, works on an auction where all proceeds go to funding research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – as of early 2021, over 70 million Euro has been raised to benefit children afflicted by this disease. It is an opportunity for brands and independent watchmakers to put forward their wildest watches, ranging from prototypes, to altered colour schemes for familiar pieces, all the way to new movements and complications.

For someone who studied physiology, and has delved into the mechanisms of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, it is truly enlightening to see the watch world come together for such a noble cause. It is one of the rare times we see the industry so united, and we think there is no better cause than this for them to create these one-offs.

Our founder Adi Soon has written about his picks for Only Watch – here are my fantasy picks if I had the wallet to help raise money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Akrivia – Chronometre Contemporain II

A darling child of the independent watch scene, Rexhep Rexhepi begins a new chapter in his career with the Chronometre Contemporain II. Retaining the lauded classical aesthetics of the first version of his Chronometre Contemporain, the watch is built from the ground-up as an entirely new timepiece.

A dial with a two-stage production process of grand-feu enamel, followed by a translucent champagne-coloured flinque enamel graces the front of the watch.l  The case, hewn from 950 Platinum respects traditional craftsmanship, and is produced in 14 parts by Jean-Pierre Hagmann – a boitier/casemaker by trade who has been lauded for his minute repeater cases, manufacturing for numerous brands in the past and is now working with Rexhepi. The “JHP” hallmark on the lugs signifies its provenance, and each of these lugs are individually soldered to the case.

Housed within its platinum case is a manually wound movement that is aesthetically similar to what was housed in the previous Chronometre Contemporain, however it now incorporates a dead-beat seconds mechanism, as well as being certified by the Besancon Observatory. This watch also includes an experience of visiting the Besancon Observatory – undoubtedly a package that represents fine watchmaking as a whole, in its craftsmanship and its history.

Blancpain – Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No-Rads

Proving to be incredibly popular amongst watch fans, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms series of watches looks back into the archives, and revives key models that were instrumental in forming the evolution of the modern dive watch. At Only Watch 2021, the No-Rads has been brought back with orange-coloured accents on the dial and bezel to match with the theme of the auction – this can look like an attractive pumpkin-like patina, which vintage enthusiasts are sure to enjoy.

This version for this edition of Only Watch also removes the date window, cleaning up the dial and making it more symmetrical – this is, however, not how the original was presented, but will be sure to please those that love a cleaner aesthetic. The orange colour scheme extends down to the No-Rads symbol at 6 o’clock – instead of yellow and red, it is now orange and yellow. Powering this version of the watch is the Blancpain Calibre 1154, with a custom-engraved rotor commemorating Only Watch 2021.

Chopard – Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

For fans of Switzerland, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the brand’s familiar sports watch, but with the addition of a natural Swiss granite stone dial from the Graubunden region of the country. Speckled with blue and green inclusions, the dial echoes the view of the Alpine region from the sky.

Naturally, in order to view the beauty of the stone dial, the sapphire crystal has the brand printed onto it. The 44mm case is made from Lucent Steel, the same as in the main line collections where a portion of the steel used is recycled – this steel is also harder than traditional 316L Stainless Steel used in many watches. Housed within the fantastic steel case is the Chopard 03.05-C movement, for which 3 patents are filed for the chronometer certified movement, and the watch is delivered on a calfskin strap with a titanium inlay.

Czapek – Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise”

ISOCHRONO are very much fans of this new release from Czapek, and we wrote about it extensively earlier this year. This version of the Antarctique features an orange colour that is CVD coated, done in partnership with Positive Coating.

The movement itself is also the fruit of a partnership – with Chronode, no less. The SHX6 movement displays the entire split seconds chronograph mechanism on the dial side, to display the beauty of its finishing, and the mechanical interactions each component plays when the chronograph is activated.

Housed in Stainless Steel, and measuring in at 42.5mm, the Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise” also features chronograph subdials and a minutes track in fume coated sapphire crystal – the minutes track also features a hidden message from 0-10 seconds – “Courage Every Second” – a message that is fitting for an auction that benefits Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

DeBethune/Voutilainen

On the surface the entry from DeBethune and Kari Voutilainen represents a collision of worlds, with a stark juxtaposition of classic and modern watchmaking in one watch. In reality, the duo of Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen is closer than one might think – they both had the same teacher when they attended watchmaking school, and hence, each side represents their vision of watchmaking.

Kari Voutilainen’s side of the watch continues his very classical interpretation of watch dials, with multiple forms of guilloche visible on the dial, and heavily stylised Breguet-esque hands. Denis Flageollet’s side, on the other hand, displays the hyper-modern watchmaking that DeBethune is famous for – Star Trek-like shapes for the movement components, and skeletonised bridges to expose more of the mechanisms lying underneath.

Voutilainen’s side uses the Isogone display, where a minute ring revolves with the minutes hand. This means that hands will always line up at the hour, be at 90 degrees for 15 minutes past the hour, 180 degrees for the half hour, and 270 degrees for 45 minutes past the hour – the idea being that the display of the hands remains consistent throughout the hours. This side also features a large deadbeat seconds hand. DeBethune’s side involves a rotating minute hand at the periphery of the dial, and the hours indicator curiously positioned where the balance wheel is located – an unusual arrangement, but nonetheless an attractive one that leaves the construction of the movement to speak wonders for the watch. The calibre OW21 housed within has a 4 day power reserve, and features a titanium balance wheel as well as a silicon escapement.

FP Journe x Francis Ford Coppola – FFC Blue

Taking an incredible 7 years from conception to development, the FFC Blue was inspired during a dinner between Coppola and Journe, with Coppola asking if there was any possible way for a watch to tell the time with a hand – and not in the sense that we are used to in watchmaking. Journe took the inspiration of this display from a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Pare, the father of modern surgery, and had to devise a way to display all 12 hours with only 5 fingers.

Furthermore, this is powered by a version of the Octa 1300 movement, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Housed within a weighty tantalum case, the movement is crafted entirely of rose gold, and the rotor is engraved with the names of Ambroise Pare, Francis Ford Coppola, and of course, FP Journe.

The minutes are displayed on a disc on the periphery of the dial with a blued triangular arrow, and of course, the “digital” hours are indicated by the blue hand in the centre of the dial. Whilst we can certainly think of ways that this watch can be even more provocative through the use of its middle digits, this watch is certainly provocative enough with its radical display of time, and incorporation of automata in its construction.

Girard-Perregaux – Casquette, Only Watch Edition

It’s back to the future for Girard-Perregaux at the 2021 edition of Only Watch, as the brand works with Bamford Watch Department to unveil a new version of the famous LED watch from 1976. The watch uses a new movement that utilises an LED display, just like the original Casquette, but protects this in a case of forged carbon and titanium.

Titanium pushers are used to activate the display – just like in the 1970s, LED displays still utilise a lot of power, and the pushers activate the display on demand. Undoubtedly, this is a great way to get vintage vibes from the 70s, whilst retaining an essence of modernity in the form of the case.

Krayon – Anywhere

Featuring a lacquer dial with a mosaic effect, the Krayon Anywhere for Only Watch 2021 features an interpretation of Claude Monet’s “Impression, rising sun” on its Metiers d’Art dial. Distinctive for being the only watch with its Equation of Time and Sunrise/Sunset function capable of being set for any location on Earth, the buyer of this watch will be able to choose the location upon purchase.

The watch also features an incredible amount of fine finishing on the movement – as a prototype, it is finished excellently with manually executed bevels, many of them internal bevels.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch

The shape of the “bulldog” lent itself well to an iteration of this watch in Panda form, with its rounded edges and organic forms. To further the Panda aesthetic, titanium ears were added to domed upper sapphire crystal, the upper case was reworked in stainless steel to accept a black and white lacquer finishing, and a silicon nitride ball was used for its tail. As the Panda is always munching on bamboo, the teeth remain underneath the “eyes/hour and minutes indicators” of the panda – this also serves to indicate the power reserve. To top it all off, the Panda motif is further reinforced with a black and white velcro strap.

Patek Philippe – “Complicated Desk Clock”

For those that managed to procure the entire collection of Patek Philippe watches (including the elusive Nautilus 5711/1A), Patek Philippe dug deep into its archives and based their Only Watch 2021 entry on a clock owned by a famous collector. Originally delivered in 1923, the original clock was ordered by James Ward Packard, and now resides in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The modestly named Only Watch 2021 clock is a veritable horological beast, hewn from Sterling Silver, with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut furniture. Driven by the Calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the clock boasts a power reserve of 31 days with power reserve indicator, a perpetual calendar, jumping seconds and a week indicator shown through a red window at the periphery of the dial. Its precision in construction utilising its Gyromax balance wheel and a 28,800 vph oscillation frequency, the clock is adjusted to within +1/-1 seconds per day – an amazing rate of accuracy for a mechanical clock, and we can expect nothing but the best from Patek Philippe.

Speake Marin – Dual Time Openworked Only Watch The Sun

With the world awakening from its pandemic slumber, it could be said that the Speake Marin is a watch for the times. Equipped with an in-house dual-time movement (the SMA02), the watch is ready to accompany its wearer on journeys across the world.

Contrasting with 42mm DLC coated case is an orange dial that is the thematic colour of this year’s edition of Only Watch, not only representing hope and progress in the world of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research, but also a reminder of the reemerging world.

TAG Heuer – Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A modern reinterpretation of the “Dark Lord” Monaco, the watch takes its inspiration from this vintage model of the 70s, and utilises modern materials to update its look and feel, whilst incorporating thoroughly modern features in its movement construction. The case is made from forged carbon, and the Only Watch 2021 thematic colours of orange stand out against its dark skeletonised dial.

The movement features a ‘gratte’ finish to echo a finishing flag that brings to mind its racing heritage, and the rear of the watch features the largest sapphire crystal case back to ever be featured on a Monaco. Within the forged carbon case is the Heuer 02 in-house movement, that is curiously fitted with a carbon hairspring – continuing the theme of carbon within the movement. It is fantastic to see that the carbon hairspring has made its way back to a production watch, and we can only hope that it is a signal for things to come.

Zenith x Felipe Pantone – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone

All of your chromatic dreams come true – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone brings the artist’s chromatic artistic inspiration to the wrist in an amazing 46mm sapphire case. A rainbow for the wrist, the multi-coloured finishings are applied to an El Primero 9020 movement that features one tourbillon for timekeeping and one for the chronograph itself, beating at 5Hz and 50Hz respectively. Accompanying the watch will be an artwork made by the artist himself. Two whirlwinds are better than one, and with this watch and the accompanying artwork, it will undoubtedly be a colourful one at that.

Being the grande complication that they are, they are usually also finely finished, and are traditionally manual-wound movements. The Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Rattrapante, however, combines these traditional elements with a sense of modernity, bringing the split-seconds chronograph mechanism to the dial for all to enjoy – this is also the first time a split seconds chronograph mechanism has been brought to the dial. Not only is this a first for aesthetics in watchmaking, but also an educational experience for the wearer, and the people fortunate enough to handle this watch in person.

During the early stages of the Czapek & Cie. brand, a limited edition watch containing a vintage manual-winding Valjoux 7733 chronograph movement was sold to friends as a fundraising effort to re-register the Czapek name for trading. One of their friends commented on the interaction of the chronograph components when it was being used, and this sparked the idea of bringing the chronograph mechanism to the front of the watch. In effect, it has taken 9 years from concept to fruition, with the help of the famous movement solutions provider, Chronode. Indeed it was serendipitous, as Czapek & Cie. CEO, Xavier de Roquemaurel wanted a dazzling complication for the sport-chic collection – and when Chronode signalled they were ready to produce a working split-seconds chronograph, it was go-time for Czapek & Cie. 

The SHX6 movement was created in collaboration with Jean-Francois Mojon’s Chronode, with the aim of making the rattrapante complication visible on the dial side. For this challenge, they had to reduce the number of components used for this complication, as well as reduce the thickness of the components, so that it would fit the casual elegance of the Antarctique. This entire mechanism forms a split-seconds chronograph module (in itself an impressive feat) that sits on top a high performance base movement that has enough power to provide energy to this complication. Whilst a vertical clutch is widely considered to be the most modern solution for chronographs, a horizontal clutch was deliberately chosen for the SHX6 movement of the Antarctique Rattrapante – explains de Roquemaurel: “This time, we favoured a horizontal clutch rather than a vertical one to highlight the aesthetics of the transmission”. No doubt a wise choice, as a horizontal clutch shows with great clarity how each lever, spring, column wheel and chronograph wheel interact with each other during the use of the chronograph.

At the centre of the movement lies a distinctive tripod bridge, holding a patented satellite bridge, as well as the split-seconds mechanism below, for which there is a patent pending – it’s unique geometry of the clamp is what enabled a patent for its design. A monopusher chronograph by construction and operation, the split seconds mechanism can be independently stopped and reset at a later time.

Aesthetically, the movement has symmetry in mind, with column wheels at the top (for the chronograph and bottom (for the split-seconds mechanism) of the movement, and the sub registers at 4 and 7 o’clock serving as visual points for vertical symmetry. Continuing with tradition, the steel levers of the chronograph movement are finished with hand chamfering as well as straight graining – a nod to Haute Horlogerie. As an automatically-wound rattrapante chronograph, the movement contains aesthetic continuity with the other movements utilised in the Antarctique collection. Bridges with distinctive angles were extensively used in these models, and it is the rotor of the Antarctique Rattrapante that continues this aesthetic code. The rotor also utilises recycled 5N Rose Gold, a tribute to its namesake, and highlighting the importance of sustainability in the watch industry today.

The Antarctique Rattrapante comes in a sporty guise, with its 42mm stainless steel case, and distinctive integrated bracelet. Akin to a knight’s armour, the bracelet is articulated, with alternating brushed and polished links – the polished links in the shape of a stylised ‘C’ for Czapek. The bracelet is interchangeable (albeit with a tool – much easier than a pair of springbar tweezers) for a leather or rubber strap. The sapphire crystal of the watch is a box-shaped crystal, bringing the overall height of the watch to 15.3mm, however, its perceived thickness is lessened on the wrist, with a bezel to caseback height of 10.5mm. The chronograph pusher is situated at 2 o’clock, and the rattrapante pusher is located at 10 o’clock – the integration of the chronograph pusher into the crown guard forms a seamless line, whilst the rattrapante pusher is unobtrusive, and is only there when you go looking for it. The dial features sword hands filled with SuperLuminova, and chronograph hands feature different colours – blue for the main chronograph hand, and silver with a red tip for the split seconds hand. Water resistant to 120m, the watch is a sporty companion with mechanical aesthetics in mind.

The Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Rattrapante has already proven to be a show favourite at Geneva Watch Days 2021, with renewed attention dawning on the brand because of its unique mechanism. The Antarctique collection moves from a time-only sports watch to a true Haute Horlogerie collection with the release of this new reference – limited to 77 pieces, and made to order (taking a leaf out of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s book, and making them to ‘subscription’), the Czapek & Cie. Antarctique Rattrapante will certainly prove to be the stepping stone for this brand’s rise into watchmaking fame.

Technical Specifications

FUNCTIONS

Split-second monopusher chronograph, hours, minutes & seconds
Chronograph minutes at 4:30, Small seconds at 7:30
Chronograph pusher at 2:00, Split-second pusher at 10:00
 
MOVEMENT

Calibre SXH6: haute horlogerie automatic power-horse movement with a split-second monopusher chronograph module
Power reserve: 60 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 VpH
Variable inertia balance wheel
Two column wheels, chronograph horizontal clutch, patent-pending split-second clamp
49 jewels, 292 components
Recycled 5N rose gold rotor with Czapek logo
Diameter: 34mm
 
FINISH

Finely shotblasted bridges with hand-polished chamfers
Linear satin-finished chronograph levers with hand-polished chamfers, Circular satin-finished wheels
Black-polished screws, studs and column wheels 

CASE

42.5mm stainless steel case, height (with glass-box): 15.3mm, perceived height (bezel to case-back): 10.5mm

Sapphire Crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment

Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on inner side

Water Resistance: 120m

BRACELET

Integrated stainless steel bracelet with Czapek exclusive “Easy Release” system
Optional leather or rubber strap

DIAL
 
Open-worked split-second chronograph on the dial side (world première)
Sword hours and minutes hands with SuperLuminova treatment
Split-second hand with red tip
Diamond-chamfered rhodium-plated minutes ring and counters

https://www.instagram.com/chronopeace/

Tell us about how you got started in collecting watches?

I liked watches when I was a teenager. I got started with a Boy London fashion watch (a dual time) and a Swatch Yuri when I was in high school. Then I bought a Hermès watch and an Omega Speedmaster Michael Schumacher when I was in university. After a while, I slowed down a little and only bought only a few watches such as a Breitling Montbrillant, a Chronoswiss Pathos, and a Pierre Kunz Triple Retrograde. My watch passion was dormant for some time after that but was reignited recently in 2017. What prompted it was seeing a Hublot Big Bang Unico All Black Sapphire at the boutique in Zurich. It was such a cool watch that when I found it again in a Hublot boutique in Japan, I had to buy it.

Then I started buying other watches from brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille, all by the end of 2017. The next two years – 2018 and 2019 – were by far my craziest collecting years. I went on to buy something from almost every important brand – maybe up to 60-70 brands in total. By April 2019, I had also started collecting 1970’s LED watches. At this point, I have at least 200 watches in my collection.

What are the significant pieces in your collection?

I love my Romain Gauthier Logical One, which is a unique piece, also my Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Historique. I love independent brands, which is why I also have an Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Water, a Czapek Place Vendôme Tourbillon Suspendu and a Gronefeld Parallax Tourbillon.

I also like watches from major brands such as Audemars Piguet – for example the Royal Oak Double Balance Openworked Wheel ref:15470ST and the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic ref:26579CE. From Patek Philippe, one of my favourite acquisitions is the Aquanaut 5650G Advanced Research. Aside from that, my secret favourite brand is Chronoswiss. Why? – because it was from this brand that I bought my first watch that cost me over 10k USD.

What is your philosophy of collecting?

I have loved mechanical watches since my childhood because I did things like building a radio myself. I also love to discover and understand the logic of how mechanical watches work. Watches are for me the most extreme expression of technology in a mechanical product, in which the goal is to create the most accuracy using a combination of precise micro mechanical parts. I love that watchmaking philosophy itself. That’s why I collect watches with special movements.

At the same time I need an atomicity and beauty in designs. Wrist watches must be beautiful. That’s why I sometimes buy watches by instinct just by looking at photos. I recently acquired a Le Rhone Roadracer. This one has got an ebauche movement which is nothing special in itself but has some unique atomicity and philosophy in design.

The third element that attracts me is an extreme uniqueness or ugliness in the design. I love LED watches and jump hour watches from the 1970’s. Most brands were trying to survive the quartz war by introducing such cute and ugly watches then. Tiffany even sold Pulsar LED watches with their logo, that’s why I acquired like 70 of those in a month. I also like modern unique watches such as the Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision, Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Zenith Defy Zero Gravity, and the JLC Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2.

What are the upsides and downsides of maintaining an owning a large collection of watches?

The upside is I’m just happy to wear several different watches every day throughout the year, and I can match my watches with any kind of mood or outfit.

The downside is that it’s a pain to maintain all the certificates, boxes, overhaul schedules, and battery swaps. That is why I don’t sell any of my watches – it takes hours to find a box from the storage.

I understand that you work in the software industry – tell me about the link between software and watches.

Building software and watchmaking have a lot in common. Both are combinations of the smallest components with high levels of accuracy. I used to love building radios when I was a kid, so I have loved mechanicals since my childhood. Mechanical wrist watches remind me of the importance of souls and philosophies that we have to put into the products we make. That is why I love watches that have an obvious heart and soul that I can feel from when they were made.

You have a very well managed Instagram profile (@chronopeace), tell me how Instagram has enhanced your experience in collecting watches.

It’s been a wonderful experience to have all the records of my watch collecting life in chronological order. More than that, I could never have met any of my great watch collector friends without Instagram. Furthermore, taking photos of my watches has made me a better photographer. I have even started to carry two smartphones all the time. A Galaxy Note S10+ is only for taking photos of my watches. It’s got the best camera for my watch photographs so far! I am waiting for the new Galaxy S20 Ultra to be released as it has an even better camera.

What’s the collecting scene like in Japan, and how is it like it your experience in other countries?

Independent brands tend to be overpriced due to the distribution environment here. I think that is why there are so few collectors buying independent brands. Because of this, I buy 90% of my watches overseas through my agents and jewellers outside of Japan. Most independent brands however are nice in that they will take care of overhauls directly, and I can Fedex my watches to them if under warranty.

Sometimes some brands have long delays on delivery for new models here. For example, when I tried to order a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with blue dial when it was introduced back in 2018, all the boutiques in Japan told me that I would have to wait 9 months. This, compared to my jeweller in the US, who delivered it to me in two weeks and at less than the retail price here. This is why I don’t buy watches that often in Japan.

These days even though I try to buy watches from boutiques in Japan such as from brands like Audemars Piguet, because I want to make my chances for certain limited editions better, I find that it is still easier and faster for me to buy from my agents overseas. If you want to buy Richard Mille watches here in Japan, you have to visit empty boutiques with no watches in the show cases.

That’s the situation for new watches, in Japan, the second hand market is very big. If you visit Nakano, Tokyo, you would see more watches here than what you have seen in your life. You will find dozens of Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711’s selling for about 100K USD there. You can also see thousands of Rolex, with every model conceivable. It’s one of the best watch markets in the world. Visit if you’ve got the chance!

I have bought most of my watches via jewellers in the USA and Europe, but sometimes I just order online directly from the Independent brands. Having acquired over 200 watches, I have found some very good sources for deals and I am pretty happy with what I am able to get.

You like watches so much you decided to make an interesting product that protects watches?

I had a chemical manufacturer make a special product that cleans and seals wrist watches with a real micro thin crystal glass layer. I have tested it on most of my collection and it works very well. It will be launched in Japan on the first of March and hopefully global distribution will start by the Summer of 2020. It’s called Crystal Guard Chrono Armor. Do give it a try! You can see a lot of photos of watches with Crystal Guard applied on my Instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/crystalguard/

Explain the Instagram handle @chronopeace, and your logo.

I love the most peaceful moment when I drink some Scotch whiskey polishing and looking at my watches even though I’m warlike to the “I also want your replicas” trolls on Instagram.

My emoji watch icon means “a lil demon kid who loves watches forever.” Sometimes I make tricks on or make fun of my watch fam.

Follow @chronopeace on Instagram for pictures of fantastic watches, especially new acquisitions, which is always fun.