Grand Seiko has a plethora of models available in their current catalogue that embody the spirit of Japanese watchmaking, the latest of which form the backbone of their Evolution 9 series. 2020 saw the introduction of the first Evolution 9 models to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko – a milestone meant to signify the brand experiencing the full zodiac cycle, and coming full circle, being reborn as the brand we see today. The next model in this lineup was the award-winning SLGH005 “White Birch” – released in 2021, and was lauded by the GPHG in its Men’s Watch division. A further evolution was made on this model in 2022 with the SLGH017 “Night Birch” – a darkened version of the “White Birch” model in a hi-intensity titanium case. This watch intrigued me with its case material, dial aesthetic and its movement, and we decided to pick this for review to see if this model holds up a few years after its release.

In terms of aesthetics, this watch follows the aforementioned Evolution 9 design cues, a watch designed with an “impressive look” in mind, according to Grand Seiko watch designer Kiyotaka Sakai. Firstly, the dial design included a thicker hour hand, and a longer minute hand to increase legibility. The minutes and seconds hands are also bent downwards towards the chapter ring to reduce parallax error, thereby increasing the legibility of the time. In addition to this, the 12 o’clock index in most Grand Seiko watches is two times the width of the other indexes, but with the Evolution 9 design having “impressiveness” in mind, the index was designed to be 2.5 times the width of a normal index, giving the 12 o’clock marker more presence, and making it easier to read the time. 

The Night Birch SLGH017 further iterates on this with a textured dial that is inspired by the birch forests of the Hiraniwa Plateau located near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi where the watch is manufactured. It is a scene of the forest at night, with the dial being stamped seven times to achieve the desired texture, and multiple coating layers are required to achieve the colouring of the dial. In different lighting conditions, the texture of the dial goes from black to shades of grey, creating a dynamic look for the watch. In addition to this, the diamond-cut hour markers reflect light in even low light conditions, making luminescent paint for the hands and markers almost redundant. As a final touch, the date window at 3 o’clock has a colour matching date wheel, making the watch incredibly coherent across its functions and design.

The case is another key element of the Evolution 9 design, with a balance between the hairline finished and polished finished surfaces an essential consideration to create a serene look. By placing the hairline finishes on the top surfaces of the bezel, lugs and the sides of the watch, and mirrored, Zaratsu polished surfaces on the edges of those components, the edges are able to stand out and possess a sharp, precise look that is still understated and refined. With the arrival of a new movement bearing a slim profile, the opportunity presented itself to design the ideal case shape and profile to house the new movement. A case design with a steep vertical side, a gentle curve of the case middle and attenuated tips of the lug created a firm yet light presence. A point was also made to lower the centre of gravity of the watch, which works in tandem with the slimmer movement, enabling a thinner caseback – this in combination with a wider lug width enables a better stance of the watch on the wrist. With these design features, the Night Birch takes all of these and applies this to a hi-intensity titanium case, applying the lower centre of gravity design to an ultra light titanium case. This creates an effect on the wrist that is quite unique – one where the watch almost disappears on the wrist, and only re-emerges when you are looking for the time or date. The bracelet design is also a source of intrigue, with its wide stance and dimensions. Some may take issue with the 22mm lug width, but like the modified and stanced cars as seen in the car scene, the wide stance enables an air of stability, creating a sense of comfort on the wrist. The interplay of light across the watch case is also evident, and even in titanium, these finishes hold true. In particular, the top of the bezel being brushed accentuates the stable and slim design.

Tying all of these design elements together is the Calibre 9SA5, which has three key design features that give the Evolution 9 watches an edge in performance, as well as giving the watches their signature designs. Firstly, the Dual Impulse Escapement enables a long power reserve of 80 hours thanks to its efficient design that delivers mainspring energy directly to the balance wheel. MEMS (Micro Electromechanical Systems) manufacturing technology also enables the escapement components to be light, which also increases efficiency in the movement. In contrast to other movements in the Grand Seiko collections, the 9SA5 incorporates a free-sprung balance wheel – free of the indexed balance, the movement has a higher resistance to shock and positional changes. To top it all off, the movement is designed with a special horizontal gear train with 4 wheels instead of three in the going train that decreases the energy load in the movement, which also enables a slimmer construction. The Night Birch is a watch that is weekend-proof – take it off on Friday, and pick it up on Monday, ready for another week of wear. For those who have not experienced a Hi-Beat movement, putting this watch to your ear gives a sound that is precise, yet not as frantic as you would expect. Performance-wise, on casual observation, the watch is holding to around +3 seconds per day – well within the Grand Seiko standard. All of these aspects make the watch incredibly easy to work with, and makes it a great everyday watch, with the movement aiding its slimness, and its chronometric performance. 

I was not expecting the Grand Seiko SLGH017 “Night Birch” to be this good. There were a number of features that I thought of as compelling (its movement, and its slimness), however, I really needed to experience these in the metal for me to really come around. Dials and cases are all well and good in renderings, but to really have the true Grand Seiko experience, the visual experience has to be done in person, and its fit and finish are truly exceptional for its price point. Whilst the 22mm lug width has been widely criticised, I feel that they are unwarranted, and they give the watch a balanced look, whilst giving the watch stability – this may be due to the titanium construction, given its lightness, however, I would also make the guess that in stainless steel, this balanced feel will be accentuated. The watch is also incredibly great to live with – paired with businesswear, or casual jeans and a t-shirt, the watch truly disappears on the wrist, and only reappears once you are searching for it. The only gripe I would have about this watch is the bracelet – I’m not a fan of how the bracelet has no micro-adjustment for an even better fit on the wrist, as well as it being fastened by pins and sleeves – I would have expected screws in a watch of this level, but I’m happy to be proven wrong. Having said this about the bracelet, what I am a fan of is the all brushed finishing, no brushed centre links to worry about!

Overall, the Grand Seiko SLGH017 “Night Birch” is a watch worthy of your consideration if you are in the market for something from Grand Seiko, but with a little bit of a twist. The materials and design make it easy to live with, whilst the movement has been designed to have great performance over time. Grand Seiko set out with the Evolution 9 Series to make a watch that is even more accurate, legible, durable and beautiful than ever, and I believe that they have achieved that with the new collection. The Night Birch takes it even further with a feather-light case and bracelet, with a handsome black dial that will be pride of place on your wrist for years to come.

Technical Specifications

Exterior

Movement

Functions

Developed by one of their engineers, Yoshikazu Akahane – it is said he was enamoured with the idea of combining instant starting nature and power of mechanical watches, with the accuracy of (then) recently developed quartz watches, whilst eliminating the need to change batteries. His idea was to power a quartz watch with a mainspring – to which his supervisor thought impossible. Akahane came up with the idea in the late 70s, and the result – the power and gear trains of a mechanical watch, combined with what Seiko call the “Tri Synchro Regulator”, which is a hybrid of mechanical and electronic regulating mechanisms, incorporating a flywheel, electromagnets and a quartz crystal, with the first prototype finalised in 1982. Spring Drive is one of the most novel methods of controlling the energy from a mechanical watch. In the words of a Seiko engineer, interviewed by Hodinkee, “It is a device that ensures constant rotational speed”. In this sense, the addition of a quartz regulator enables this style of movement to achieve accuracy to within 1 second a day – an amazing feat for a watch with a mechanical drive train. Originally released in 1999, the Spring Drive movement was put into serial production in 2004, and has been going for 20 years as of 2024.

The new Sport Collection Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition features a case design inspired by the lion – an emblematic Grand Seiko symbol since the brand’s inception in the 60s. Its angular lines on the curved lugs incorporate claw-like designs that highlight the incredibly refined Zaratsu polishing, the hairline brushed finishes and the contrast between the two. The case and bracelet are crafted from Seiko’s High-intensity Titanium – a material that is 30% lighter than stainless steel, and has a brighter hue. Thick H-shaped links on the bracelet ensure a great fit for all wrist sizes – combined with the lightness of the case material makes for a great wearing experience, even accounting for the 44.5mm case diameter. 

Arguably the most distinctive element of the watch is the sunrise-hued dial of the 20th Anniversary Limited Edition. Inspired by the summer sunrises of the Hotaka mountain ranges that are near the Shinshu watch studio (where the Spring Drive movements are manufactured), the reddish hue of the dial appears to change as the light hits it at different angles. This is thanks to a patented Optical Multi-layer Coating, which utilises a physical vapour deposition (PVD) process to apply several layers of nanoscale film to the dial, which enables the colourshift effect to occur when the dial is viewed at different angles. Not only does this dial showcase the nature of time that Grand Seiko takes its inspiration from, it also displays a myriad of complications – chronograph hours and minutes, running seconds, date, power reserve and a GMT hand. Dial furnishings are also highlighted with Lumibrite luminescent material – blue for the GMT indications, and green for the time keeping indications. When the chronograph hand is activated, the movement of the seconds hand combined with the changing sunrise hues of the dial bring a poetic sense to the fluid motion of time.

Housed within the high-intensity titanium case is the 9R96 movement. Based on the 9R86 movement that is already jam-packed with complications (chronograph, date, power reserve and traveller’s GMT), the movement within the Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition is further adjusted to an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per month (+/- 0.5 seconds per day). 

For Grand Seiko to trigger a sense of 90s nostalgia around Japanese goods of yore, it has to be jam-packed with features, designed with user experience in mind, and have a character that is distinctively Japanese. The Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition has all of these things and more – with its nature-inspired dial, impressively equipped movement, and great wearability with proprietary titanium construction. A fitting celebration to the 9R series of movements, this watch is the full Grand Seiko experience – the most accurate movement, paired with exquisite design details.

Technical Specifications

Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275 Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96
Driving system: Automatic

Accuracy: ±10 seconds per month (±0.5 seconds per day)
Power reserve: 72 hours

Functions: GMT hand/ Chronograph up to 12 hours
Number of jewels: 50

Case: High-intensity titanium case and bracelet 

Three-fold clasp with push-button release, secure lock, and extender
Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back
Screw-down crown
Water resistance: 20 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 44.5mm, Thickness: 16.8mm
Approximate recommended retail price: $13,400
Limited edition of 700

The first Grand Seiko watches were created to be low maintenance, easy to wear, highly legible and incredibly beautiful. This was later combined with Seiko’s history in chronometry, with their expertise in high precision and high-beat movements. The new “Birch Bark” models combine this beauty with a manually wound high-beat movement that continues this legacy in their precision watchmaking. 

Seiko is synonymous with the Hi-Beat movement, amongst only a few manufacturers able to produce a watch with a higher beat rate as the key to precision. A fundamental theory to the Hi-Beat movement is that the increased frequency divides one second into smaller intervals, thereby, increasing the precision of the timepiece. The faster movement of the balance wheel would also assist in recovering from positional changes faster than that of a watch with a slower beat rate. Today’s Hi-Beat movements echo Seiko’s pursuit of precision in the late 1960s, and incorporate new manufacturing techniques to ensure reliability and performance. Not only is it uncommon to find high frequency watches from other brands, but Seiko took steps in manufacturing key escapement components to help cement it’s position in precision and reliability. 

The two “Birch Bark” models come in two guises – the SLGW003 in Brilliant Hard Titanium, and the SLGW002 in 18k Rose Gold which is limited to 80 pieces worldwide at Grand Seiko Boutiques. Both of which have a dial that echoes the bark of the birch trees that grow near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi where all of Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are made.

Following the Evolution 9 design codes, the elements of the dial including the hands and hour markers still follow these principles, albeit they have been slimmed down to create a more elegant face of the watch. The lugs too have been narrowed to create a more elegant silhouette, and the centre of gravity of the watch has been brought down closer to the wrist, for a more comfortable and stable wear on the wrist. The case size also reflects its elegant nature, measuring in at 38.6mm in diameter, and 9.95mm in height – perfect dress watch proportions.

Housed within the watch is the new 9SA4 movement, and whilst it may look like the movement is its automatic brother (the calibre 9SA5) with the rotor removed, the 9SA4 actually has around 40% of its components that were uniquely developed for this calibre, specifically with manual winding in mind. The 9SA4 beats at 36,000vph, making this a high-beat movement, and also incorporates the Dual Impulse Escapement from Grand Seiko – essentially power from the barrel is more efficiently delivered directly to the balance wheel through a unique escape wheel and pallet fork architecture. With its two power barrels, this combination enables a long power reserve of 80 hours. With its focus on manual winding, special attention has been paid to the winding click of the power barrel. Its shape is reminiscent of the wagtail – a bird that is indigenous to the Morioka region of Japan, near where the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is located. One final touch of this watch as a manually wound watch is the power reserve on the plate-side of the movement – a finishing flourish for a dress watch that will only be enjoyed by its owner. As with all Grand Seiko watches, the movements are graded according to the Grand Seiko Standard – -3/+5 seconds per day, in six positions (as opposed to the traditional five), three different temperatures, and across a period of 17 days.

It is certainly no wonder why the Birch Bark watches received so much fanfare and attention during Watches and Wonders 2024 – it signified the return of the dress watch, and its importance in the world of watchmaking. The days of the everyday watch are not gone, but the prominence of the dress watch will slowly regain its position as it did before the craziness of the pandemic. With the Birch Bark, Grand Seiko have made a firm statement that they are committed to their customers in developing watches that suit the zeitgeist – with its incredibly beautiful dial and extremely capable movement, the Birch Bark sets the standard for dress watches in its category, and we cannot wait to see what other creations from Grand Seiko will house the new movement.

Technical Specifications

Caliber 9SA4

Driving system: Manual-winding

Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)

Accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to -3 seconds per day

Power reserve: 80 hours

Number of jewels: 47

Diameter: 31.0mm, Thickness: 4.15mm

Specifications

18k rose-gold case and clasp (SLGW002)

Brilliant Hard Titanium case and clasp　(SLGW003)

Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inner surface

See-through case back

Water resistance: 3 bar

Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m

Diameter: 38.6mm, Thickness: 9.95mm

Crocodile strap with three-fold clasp with push button release

Approximate recommended retail prices: $45,000 (SLGW002), $10,700 (SLGW003)

Limited edition of 80 (SLGW002)

Built by the Micro Artist Studio, this part of the Shinshu facility was first formed in 2000, with their stated purpose of “uncovering, examining and mastering the technologies and skills passed on by our predecessors for the production of luxury watches, so that world-class Japanese watches could be created. Their creativity and mastery of watchmaking techniques led them to their most notable watches, the Credor Minute Repeater and the Eichi and Eichi II models, showcasing an incredible mastery of finishing techniques and the craft of watchmaking itself. The Micro Artist Studio would then go on to make their first Grand Seiko watch in 2016, and 2019 would be the year that they unveiled the Calibre 9R02, which makes an appearance in this year’s white birch inspired model.

The SBGZ009 features a fully engraved case in 950 platinum, which is hand engraved by artisans of the Micro Artist Studio, inspired by the white birch forests of the Yachiho Plateau near the Kita-Yasugatake mountains.

Echoing the bark from these white birch trees, the engraved pattern on the case is also echoed on the dial of the watch that features engraved font for the Grand Seiko logo and the star indicator above 6 o’clock that denotes that the hour markers and hands are crafted from 14k gold. The watch is remarkably slim, at 38.5mm in diameter, and 9.8mm thick, with a curved sapphire crystal that accentuates the curves of the case.

Housed within the elegant case of the watch is the 9R02 calibre, crafted by the Micro Artist Studio. This differs from many of the Spring Drive watches that come out of the Shinshu Watch Studio, in that the finishing is a number of notches above a standard (if it can even be called that) Spring Drive movement. Featuring rounded chamfers and sharp internal angles, the Micro Artist Studio actually learned these techniques when Philippe Dufour came to visit the studio near the time of its inception. In the early days, this finishing was achieved with branches from an imported Swiss Gentian plant, however, the studio has long since found a local Japanese replacement, thus making this watch even more worthy of the title “Made in Japan”. The watch also features an 18k gold plaque that is hand engraved with “Micro Artist”, however this can be customised, should the owner wish for it. 

The 9R02 calibre features an 84 hour power reserve, thanks to its double barrels and its Torque Return System, which recycles energy that is wasted due to high torque when the mainsprings are at a high state of wind. Regulated by the Spring Drive system, its tri-synchro regulator ensures the power of mechanical, with the precision of quartz, accurate to one second per day. A power reserve indicator can also be seen on the back – an apt placement that does not disturb the harmony of the dial-side symmetry.

Limited to 99 pieces worldwide, Grand Seiko continue to redefine what it means to be a watch made in Japan – pushing the boundaries of what their studios are capable of, and making watches that are distinctively Japanese. The Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is an exemplary model of this philosophy, taking inspiration from Japan and the skills housed within the Micro Artist Studio to the extreme, showcasing a truly Japanese watch. It is always exciting to see what this “cupboard under the stairs” produces out of the Shinshu Watch Studio, and this watch is another piece that demonstrates that this little atelier as part of the Seiko behemoth is capable of showing Japanese watches to the world.

Technical Specifications

Exterior

Movement

Functions

The new Tentagraph carries over the Evolution 9 design of its case and bracelet, this time, crafted from Seiko’s High Intensity Titanium measuring in at 43.2mm – appropriately sized for a sports watch. The case material also ensures that the watch is 30% lighter than its equivalent in stainless steel, and is also more resistant to scratches in comparison as well. The watch also features a ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale engraving – a material that also protects from scratches due to its hardness. 

Typical of an Evolution 9 series Grand Seiko, the hands and markers are very much bolder in comparison to its older family members, with an enlarged 12 o’clock marker, grooved hour markers and thicker hands designed to enhance legibility. Furthermore, the markers and hands are filled with Lumibrite, Seiko’s proprietary luminescent material that ensures low-light visibility for longer periods. Its blue dial bears the famous Mount Iwate pattern, a constant source of inspiration for Grand Seiko’s watch designers that made its debut onto the watch in 2006.

The chronograph hand extends from the centre of the dial, all the way to the chapter ring where the seconds indicators are, and is bent towards the dial, maximising legibility through minimising the parallax effect when viewed at an angle. The same is done with the minute hand, to aid with legibility. The dial is also populated with chronograph subdials at 9 and 6 o’clock (minutes and hours totalisers respectively), as well as a running seconds subdial at 3 o’clock. Finishing off the watch, is a date complication at 4:30.

Housed within the watch is the Calibre 9SC5 – a movement that utilises the 9SA5 movement as a base, building a chronograph on top of the original movement, and brings its mechanical improvements to the Tentagraph. Incorporated within the movement is the Grand Seiko Dual Impluse Escapement, a system that combines the indirect energy impulses from the pallet fork with direct energy impulses from the escape wheel to the balance wheel. This results in a more energy-efficient running of the movement, and enables a power reserve of 72 hours. The watch also beats at 10Hz, a signature running frequency of Grand Seiko, having been one of the pioneers of high-beat movements since the 1960s, and also providing the basis of the name of the watch.

As with all Grand Seiko watches, the standards for timekeeping are tighter in comparison much of the industry – all watches must keep time to within -3/+5 seconds per day (a maximum variation of 8 seconds per day, in contrast to the COSC, which has a maximum variation of 10 seconds), and the Tentagraph undergoes a further 3 day gauntlet to test the watch whilst the chronograph is running.

To have a watch pass these tests with the chronograph running is a testament to the movement design of the Tentagraph, as the additional load that the chronograph mechanism places on the running of a movement can easily slow down a watch. 

On the wrist, the Tentagraph has a bold presence no doubt because of its size. At a case diameter of 43.2mm and a thickness of 15.3mm this is a big watch. However, given its titanium construction, it is not overbearing and is certainly a good candidate for a daily wearer.

That being said, with the trend these days moving towards smaller case sizes, I do think that it will be possible to iterate on this watch further down the line. A watch with this movement in stainless steel at a 40/41mm size will certainly be more appealing overall and perhaps take a big bite out of competitors with similar specifications on the market.

Available at selected Grand Seiko retailers and boutiques starting from June 2023, the Tentagraph symbolises the growth of the Grand Seiko brand since its worldwide debut a number of years back. The combination of rigorous testing to the Grand Seiko standard, movement design and the appearance of the watch itself is testament to a brand that stays one step ahead of the rest. The Tentagraph will undoubtedly make a splash amongst watch lovers, not only for its looks, but also because it represents everything that modern Grand Seiko stands for.

Technical Specifications

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection- Tentagraph: SLGC001

Movement: Caliber 9SC5
Winding system: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to -3 seconds per day
Power reserve: 72 hours
Functions: Chronograph with 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12-hour counter
at 6 o’clock
Number of jewels: 60
Diameter: 33.0mm, Thickness: 8.0mm

Case:
High-intensity titanium case and bracelet
Box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back. Screw-down crown.
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 43.2mm, Thickness: 15.3mm
Bracelet: Three-fold clasp with push button release
Recommended retail price in Europe: €14,300

Over the past few years, Grand Seiko has often taken inspiration from nature for its special models, presenting a humble take on Fine Watchmaking – the Japanese way. In 2021, Grand Seiko pulls the covers off of their latest creation that not only represents the beauty of nature found near the brand’s studios, but also houses their most compelling mechanical movement to date – the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch/Shirakaba.

Grand Seiko has very often taken its inspiration for its watches from nature and landscapes surrounding its workshops. Case in point, what is arguably Grand Seiko’s flagship model, “the Snowflake” (SBGA211), which takes inspiration from the fresh snowfall near Seiko’s Shinshu Watch Studios where the Spring Drive calibres are built. Another example of this is the US exclusive “Japan Seasons Special Editions” series of 62GS-cased models that take their inspiration from the seasonal variation in Japan’s fauna and landscape throughout the course of a year. It has been noted that Grand Seiko’s studios are nestled in beautiful areas of Japan – in particular, the Shizukuishi Watch Studio is located in the Iwate Prefecture, an area known for its pristine natural features. It is only fitting, then, that the Grand Seiko SLGH005 (also known as the White Birch or the Shirakaba) takes its inspiration from the picturesque surroundings of the Shizukuishi Watch Studio. 

The Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch/Shirakaba (We will refer to this watch as the White Birch from here on) has a very distinctive dial, taking its inspiration from the White Birch forests that grow near the Shizukuishi Watch Studio. The dial has a pattern that is reminiscent of the layers of bark that grow on White Birch trees, and furthermore, has a grained texture upon closer inspection. The overall design of the watch is what Grand Seiko terms as their “Series 9” design, which was originally introduced with the 60th Anniversary models in 2020. In particular, the case was given alternating finishes between brushed and Zaratsu polished surfaces to give a refined glow, and the dials were designed with legibility in mind – wider markers, especially the “triple index” at 12 aid with this design element. The hands are also widened to aid with legibility, especially the hour hand. This is not to say, however, that elegance is lost with this design objective – it appears that balance and refinement has been retained, in part with the grained and polished surfaces on the hour hand itself. With all of these design elements combined – the texture of the dial, combined with the Series 9 design cues, the overall appearance of the White Birch is distinctive, yet restrained at the same time. While these two characteristics may seem to be at odds with each other, the details are what matter with Grand Seiko, and for those with a keen eye for detail, the White Birch provides a wealth of eye candy for those looking at it.

Housed within the Grand Seiko White Birch is the 9SA5 movement, the latest generation in Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat movements. The new movement includes a myriad of improvements including a higher power reserve of 80 hours through two power barrels, and a slimmer construction that reduces the height of the movement by almost 15%. This latter improvement enables the construction of slimmer watches that sit closer to the wrist, making for a more comfortable wearing experience. What is the most curious, however, is the new Direct Impulse Escapement that was unveiled with this new movement.

In essence, Hi-Beat watches are power hungry, and the use of the conventional Lever Escapement introduces inefficiencies in power transfer during operation. The Direct Lever Escapement helps to resolve this issue by having the escape wheel directly impart energy to the balance wheel, instead of indirectly as seen through the Lever Escapement. This helps to ensure optimum balance wheel amplitude and increases the efficiency of the movement as a whole. Furthermore, the balance spring features an optimised Grand Seiko over-coil to aid with more regular beating of the balance wheel, and it is free sprung, leaving the balance less susceptible to shocks.

The question remains – will this become the new flag-bearer of the Grand Seiko collection, and supplant the Snowflake as the iconic model of the brand? We at ISOCHRONO would say no, but not for the reason you might think. Grand Seiko is best represented by its two movement technologies – Spring Drive and Hi-Beat Mechanical. The Snowflake already contains the Spring Drive movement, representing the technical marvel unveiled by the brand in 1999, while the White Birch, containing the latest generation 9SA5 is a testament to what the brand is capable of in the mechanical watch space. As such, we believe there is now a contender for a second flag-bearer in the Grand Seiko line-up – one that represents Spring Drive (the Snowflake) and now one that represents the next evolution in Hi-Beat Mechanical (the White Birch).

The Grand Seiko White Birch, then, continues the brand’s fame as Japan’s watchmaking powerhouse – paying tribute to Japan’s nature whilst being incredibly innovative in movement development and execution. In addition to the Series 9 design, the White Birch carries the legacy of the Grand Seiko Grammar of Design, whilst being future-forward in terms of the way watches will be built by the brand. With all said, it also helps that Grand Seiko has created a watch packed with a myriad of details, from dial, to hands, to case and to its movement. It is no wonder why this watch should therefore lead Grand Seiko’s charge into Fine Watchmaking, and show the industry what a challenge the brand can muster.

First of all, it is not a watch, but a concept movement that shows the future of the brand moving upwards in price and ambition into the territory of high complication. 

No doubt, while we have always known Grand Seiko to be the purveyor of well made and well finished watches targeted for everyday use, this new movement goes way beyond the normal chronograph or GMT in terms of complication, and poses quite a few interesting questions on what the brand will look like over the next few years. 

Of course previous to this, while we’ve seen complications like a tourbillon and a minute repeater by the Seiko Group before, these were under the Credor brand, which was decidedly more upscale in its offerings. 

Perhaps Credor will move even higher in terms of its position within the group, or maybe, to streamline the product structure, Grand Seiko will take over and be the brand name under which all of the best from the Seiko Group will be offered. 

The main claim to fame of the T0 (T-zero) Constant-force Tourbillon movement is it’s fully integrated constant-force and tourbillon that is on the same axis, with the stated purpose of its creation being to create an extremely accurate watch, recalling the 1960’s when Seiko’s mechanical movements dominated the top spots at the Neuchatel and Geneva Observatory Competitions.

The pair of complications that it contains certainly make sense when the goal is to increase accuracy since this is the raison d’être of the constant force mechanism and the tourbillon. It’s interesting to combine complications like this – case in point – the “Pour le Mérite” from A. Lange & Söhne that was created with a similar aim, but by combining a chain and fusee and a tourbillon.

The purpose of the Chain and Fusée is similar to that of a Constant Force mechanism, as both are all about solving the problem of decreasing torque as the mainspring winds down, with the uneven delivery of power affecting timekeeping accuracy. Think of the wind up toy moving energetically at first, but over time moving slower and slower before stopping. In a mechanical watch, a Chain and Fusée is one solution to preserve accuracy, and the other is to use a Constant Force mechanism, which basically consists of a separate spring aside from the mainspring, that receives and releases power in small intervals. With the hairspring receiving these frequent impulses of power that are smaller and more even, the accuracy of timekeeping is improved.

Then when you combine this with a tourbillon, whose purpose is to rotate the balance wheel over a specified time frame to cancel out the effects on gravity, and you have the recipe for an extremely accurate movement. 

The way that the Constant Force mechanism is done the T0 is quite different from those in other watches since it is the first time that it is mounted coaxially with the tourbillon. While this unique structure avoids the problem of having inefficient power delivery, for example by having the mechanism nearer to the mainspring barrel, it avoids the issue of stability since it is so close to the hairspring. That being said, the main challenge to overcome with this type of architecture is the need to control the large amount of power coming down the gear train, especially since this movement uses twin barrels in parallel to achieve higher torque to begin with. 

To counter this the center and third wheels are treated with a special coating for reducing friction and are also, like most of the other gears, manufactured using Micro Electro Mechanical Systems (MEMS), a forming technique used for manufacturing semiconductors. This enables the production of a perfect gear tooth shape with precision measured in microns. Lastly, a precise ceramic gear is applied to the stop wheel, which is controlled by a small spring that releases power every second, to move the tourbillon cage. 

While what has been announced is only a movement, the way that it has been designed, looks to be the foundation of a very cool watch. The blued hands look like Japanese character strokes, and the symmetrical arrangement of the parts, with twin barrels on either side of the central axis that make up the time sub-dial and the Constant Force tourbillon, is very pleasing.Given the extreme technical abilities of this movement, the resulting watch will probably do away with a dial since there is so much to enjoy from the view as it is visually, and also since Grand Seiko promises that the movement finishing will approach the level of the best from Switzerland.This is an exciting movement, and even though it is only announced as a concept today, it certainly looks like it can be put into a watch and produced immediately. 

No doubt some of the motivation of releasing the news first in this way was to get some reaction from the public on whether a watch like this from Grand Seiko would make sense. After-all I do know that Seiko moves into new territory with quite a bit of caution, as evidenced by the small number of pictures provided and the comparatively meagre technical explanation for some of the aspects of the watch, for example, the hacking seconds function. Well, my response to this is as follows – I think that Grand Seiko should put this movement into a watch now. Can’t wait to see it when it happens.

That is actually shark skin that has been toned black and red to mimic a piece of the monster of our nightmares. One can only imagine the leather hunters running around in the Godzilla movie, waiting for it to die and to cut off a big piece. And then I suppose with their bounty being intended for a leather watch strap, it must have come from a part of Godzilla where the skin is thinner – maybe the webbing between the toes – which is probably the easiest part to get to.Ok, I probably went a little too far with that. But then when I imagine wearing this watch and staring at the beautifully appointed red dial with the pattern meant to resemble the heat ray beam that Godzilla shoots out of its mouth (a glorious detail), and then slowly turn my wrist, with my eye wandering past the Zaratsu polishing on the bold and angular case of the Grand Seiko sports collection, and then I look at the strap that holds it there – I suddenly realise – Godzilla is dead.

The strap here is that one detail that has to be the most visceral part of the new watch. Luckily, if we can take ourselves away a little from focusing too much on it, we realise that the rest of it is pretty level-headed.The watch was released late last year and was meant to commemorate the 20th Anniversary of Spring Drive, and the 65th Anniversary of Godzilla. While it might seem a little strange for such a mashup to occur with on the one hand, luxury level watch brand and the other, a movie monster, I think it does make sense since we have two Japanese icons that are famous in their own fields.

What makes it even better – and this is the part that will make sense of this watch – is that Seiko and Godzilla have appeared on screen before. In Godzilla’s film debut in 1954, the monster appears in Ginza, hellbent on destruction, and in his rampage, destroys the famous clock tower above the Wako store, a retail establishment owned by Seiko at that location since 1952.

This fact is commemorated on the sapphire case-back which shows Godzilla and the Seiko clock tower just before it is destroyed.

One interesting fact about the design of this Godzilla – it is an original design made exclusively for this watch and was illustrated by Shinji Higuchi, co-director and special effects director for the movie “Shin Godzilla” (2016). According to Shinji Higuchi, “just as the lion is the king of beasts, Godzilla, the king of monsters, would be appropriate for the case back of this Grand Seiko watch. I wanted to create a completely new Godzilla and gave my best to design this in the image of what can be called ‘Grand Godzilla.’”

The movement that the watch has is the Spring Drive Caliber 9R15, which means an eerily smooth seconds hand and a power reserve indicator on the dial. But this movement is actually an upgraded version of the Calibre 9R65, in that the quartz crystal oscillator that is selected for it is of an especially higher performance. This fact accounts for the higher level of precision – ±10 seconds a month (equivalent to ±0.5 seconds per day) for the Caliber 9R15 as opposed to  ±15 seconds a month (equivalent to ±1 second per day) for the Caliber 9R65.

Limited to 650 pieces at selected Grand Seiko and Seiko boutiques as well as selected retail partners worldwide since November 2019, the watch has been selling very well. In fact, it was only because a piece had just come in to a Singapore boutique that I was able to see it.

If you’re a fan of Godzilla, this is the Grand Seiko for you. If not, well, it’s a good sign of things to come because if a brand can have fun like that, I’m sure that there will be more interesting watches in the future.

See more at the special micro-site for this watch.

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The four watches ensure that there is something for everyone, including a high-beat automatic, two quartz and one ladies automatic.

Before we get to the watches, I think it’s fair to say that Grand Seiko has truly come of age. It is no longer solely the connoisseurs’ choice, or the part of Seiko that no one really knew about and had to explain. Now, Grand Seiko, having split away from parent brand, Seiko, is its own independent brand, and is truly in the mainstream consciousness of watch buyers. Many new boutiques have been opened over the past year, with more to come, and the retail availability of Grand Seiko is now wider than ever.

First Grand Seiko Boutique in Europe to open in March 2020

It makes the launch of these four watches then, an expression of the brand’s solidified confidence. Certainly, if you want a reliable, everyday watch, with a typically Japanese aesthetic and finishing to rival the best that the Swiss can offer, look no further than the following for some ideas.

Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition

The Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 with Calibre 9S85 is a staple offering that is a practical everyday watch with time and date that showcases everything that is good about the brand. With a case and bracelet aesthetic inspired by the famed 44GS from 1967, and carrying a +5 and -3 secs a day accuracy with a 55 hour power reserve, there is nothing more that anyone would need. This new version comes with a dial in the colour of Grand Seiko blue and has a gold Grand Seiko logo and a red seconds hand. Limited to 1500 pieces.

Reference: SBGH281

Caliber 9S85/ 36,000 vibrations per hour/ +5 to -3 seconds per day/ Power reserve: 55 hours/ Stainless steel case/ Water resistance: 10 bar/ Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m/ Diameter: 40.0mm, Thickness: 13.3mm/ Stainless steel bracelet/ Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €6,200
Limited edition of 1,500 

Elegance Collection Women’s Automatic Limited Edition

The Calibre 9S27 was launched in 2018, and it was a movement that was designed with high performance and small size in mind. Despite being only 19.4mm in diameter and 4.49mm in height, it boasted specifications such as a precision of between +8 and -3 seconds a day and an unexpectedly good 50 hour power reserve. It was essentially the perfect movement for a brand new ladies collection, with watches measuring 27.8mm in diameter. The new version for the 60th Anniversary of Grand Seiko comes with a practical stainless steel case, and a decidedly celebratory 56 diamonds totalling 0.48 carats (45 of which are in the bezel) The new watch, dressed with the blue mother of pearl dial, is a fitting statement for what is effectively a diamond anniversary, and certainly gives the 29mm Lady Datejust from Rolex a run for its money. Limited to 300 pieces.

Reference: STGK015

Caliber 9S27/ Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour/ +8 to -3 seconds per day/ Power reserve: 50 hours/ Stainless steel case with 56 diamonds (0.48 carat)/ Water resistance: 10 bar, Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/M/ Diameter: 27.8mm, Thickness: 11.2mm/ Stainless steel bracelet/ Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €9,900
Limited edition of 300

Heritage Collection Quartz Limited Edition

Quartz watches are something that most fine watch enthusiasts are reluctant to consider, except when they are made with as much care and precision as a fine mechanical watch. With Seiko being the undisputed leader in the genre, being a brand that perfected the quartz movement and precipitated the quartz crisis, it’s only a Grand Seiko quartz watch that will pass muster from the most snobbish of horological connoisseurs.

The new Quartz Limited Edition showcases a brand new quartz movement – the 9F85, whose main highlight is a time difference adjustment function that allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently without stopping the seconds hands. This watch is also adjusted to a much higher precision than standard versions, up to + or – 5 seconds a year, with this ability highlighted by the gold star at the 6 o’clock position. The dial comes with a unique pattern in blue (Grand Seiko calls it the 2020 pattern) and a seconds hand in red. Limited to 2500 pieces.

Reference: SBGP007

Caliber 9F85/ Accuracy: ±5 seconds per year (at temperatures between 5℃ and 35℃)/ Time difference adjustment function/ Stainless steel case/ Screw case back with 18k yellow gold plate/ Water resistance: 10 bar, Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m / Diameter: 40.0mm, Thickness: 10.8mm/ Stainless steel bracelet / Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €3,900
Limited edition of 2,500

Sports Collection Quartz Limited Edition

The most obvious aesthetic highlight of the Quartz Limited Edition in the Sports collection, has to be its ceramic bezel, which is in the same blue as the dial. Despite not being a functional bezel, it is cool all the same, and does look extremely striking. I would certainly love to see this on the mechanical models as well. Like the other men’s watches, this watch comes with a red seconds hand, and for its more sporting ambitions, hour and minute hands coated with Lumibrite for superb nighttime legibility, 20 bar water resistance, magnetic resistance to 16,000 A/m and a screw down crown. This watch also comes with the Calibre 9F85, although it is less finely adjusted than the previous 60th Anniversary model in the Heritage Collection, managing a + or – 10 second a year accuracy. Still beats the pants off most quartz watches though. Limited to 2000 pieces.

Reference: SBGP015

Caliber 9F85/ Accuracy: ±10 seconds per year (at temperatures between 5℃ and 35℃)/ Time difference adjustment function/ Stainless steel case/ Screw-down crown, screw case back/ Ceramic bezel/ Water resistance: 20 bar, Magnetic resistance: 16,000 A/m/ Diameter: 40.0mm, Thickness: 12.4mm/ Stainless steel bracelet/ Approximate recommended retail price in Europe: €3,900
Limited edition of 2,000

For more on the 60th Anniversary collection, click here to visit Grand Seiko’s special microsite on the new models.  

Coming dressed in an aesthetic that might have gone a little too far only a few years ago for the then relatively conservative and sombre brand, we see now with this new watch, Grand Seiko having a bit of fun, after many years of educating the world on their unique vision of watchmaking. Certainly, the aesthetics have started to become very interesting, and this was a change that was most obvious with the introduction of the ceramic/titanium cased Grand Seiko GMT Chronograph in 2017, looking all technologically advanced and futuristic with its angular lines and facets.

With this new SBGE248, we are seeing the combination of a retro vibe with an overtly luxurious touch, courtesy of 18K gold in the bezel, combined with a new shade of blue for the indicator ring and the dial. The result is a relaxed, summer vibe, which somehow reminds me a little of a pre Super Case 18K Yellow Gold Rolex Submariner with blue dial. 

Speaking of which, this might just be a watch that you can look closely at if you’ve been unsuccessful in getting hold of a professional Rolex watch recently, and want something with a similar functional vibe.

The SBGE248 comes with the proven and reliable Spring Drive GMT Caliber 9R66 that we are familiar with, with an 72 hour power reserve, accuracy to ±1 second per day / ±15 seconds per month on average, an independently adjustable hour hand, a power reserve indicator at 8 o’clock, the date at 4 o’clock, and a rotating bezel that allows the tracking of 3 timezones in total at the same time. Not to mention that this is the engine that provides one of the most sensational visual delights in horology, the sight of the ultra smooth seconds hand gliding around the dial.

The rest of the watch is also familiar, with a 44mm case in stainless steel. As well, Lumibrite is used on the hands and indexes as expected, and also, quite uncommonly (for other brands) on the bezel, for the ultimate in low light legibility.

The SBGE248 will be available worldwide from September 2019 with an approximate suggested retail price of €12,500

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