With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

Hermès is a watchmaking brand like no other, infusing a creative spirit into their timepieces that transcend traditional notions. Indeed while most watch brands keep to the template of being about timekeeping precision, heritage and technical competence, Hermès is instead all about exploring our relationship with time.

Case in point the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu, a watch that won the Men’s Watch Prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2011. This was a watch that looked and ran like any other, yet it had a secret. Press the little button on the side and the hands would instantly snap to an unreadable time, effectively suspending it so that you could concentrate on the important person or event in front of you.

This watch was the first time that I realized that complication could be used in such a way, not in the service of precision, but in the service of emotion.

The Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu would go on to spawn other similarly emotional complications as seen in the Dressage L’Heure Masquée and the Slim d’Hermès L’Heure Impatient.

For 2019, Hermès launched the  Arceau L’heure de la Lune, which I covered at the beginning of the year, a watch that is all about the Moonphase complication. Look at the picture of it below and it won’t take you long to realize that it is a Moonphase complication like no other, being built specially conceived by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode.

Hermès Arceau L’heure de La Lune

An experience of Time, a Hermès Object

Come to experience the creative spirit of the brand at Ngee Ann City Atrium Level One (391 Orchard Rd, Singapore 238873) from May 24th to June 2nd 2019 with a series of interactive exhibits that showcase the brand’s main watchmaking families. Admission is free and it is conveniently located next to the brand’s boutique so that you can stop in to have a closer look at the timepieces in the exhibition.

The new Arceau L’heure de La Lune is, as the name describes, all about the beauty of the moon, with the complication of the moonphase done in a refreshingly new way. Unlike many other watches with a moonphase that is only shown as a small portion of the dial, the Arceau L’heure de La Lune utilizes the entire dial, and makes the time and date subservient to it.

It is perhaps not so obvious that the moon looks different from the northern and southern hemispheres of the earth. In the Southern Hemisphere, people see the moon ‘upside down’ so the side which is shining (sunlit) seems to be the opposite of the view from the Northern Hemisphere. This fact accounts for the two moon disks mounted in the centre of the watch, and are not, as some might suggest, views of the near and far side of the moon.

Around these two moons that are made of mother of pearl, are two mobile counters, one containing the time, and the other, the date, that rotate around them, and as they do, reveal the state of the moon phases visible in both hemispheres of the earth. With the complex movement of these mobile counters, that themselves have to carry the time and the time, it necessitated the creation of a brand new module. Hermès turned to Jean-François Mojon of Chronode, and it was he who helped to realize the original vision, coupling it with the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement.

The module itself incorporates 117 polished and bead-blasted components and comes in at a comes in a svelte 4.2mm thick, that with the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement at 3.7mm allows the watch to maintain a wearable slenderness. The design of the moonphase complication as well, with the time and date mobile counters being used to cover the moon as it goes through its phases, is not only simple to understand, but extremely impressive as a concept since it is immensely readable.

An interesting detail is visible at the 12 o’clock moon – as it is adorned by an image of Pegasus designed by the “dreamer-designer” Dimitri Rybaltchenko entitled Pleine Lune (Full Moon). The other moon at 6 o’clock, or the view of it through the northern hemisphere, is by contrast, a realistic depiction.

Two 100 piece limited edition versions of the watch are available, the first comes with white-lacquered mobile counters with black indications against an Aventurine dial, while the second comes with gradated grey-lacquered mobile counters with white indications against a Meteorite dial.

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