The collection was a hit, especially the white ceramic “Lake Tahoe” and the sand-coloured “Mojave Desert”. Are the Oceana and Jet Black ceramic models something novel? Let’s find out.

Ready For Action

Retaining most of the original Pilot Chronograph 41 introduced in 2021 and the TOP GUN Edition of 2022, the 2023 edition features a 41mm case in classic Flieger style, with a lug-to-lug distance of 51.8mm, ready for any type of strap that shouts ruggedness. Instead of steel, you get a Pilot Chronograph 41 in ceramics, complemented with pushers in brushed titanium, a good contrast that doesn’t sacrifice harmony, largely due to the consistent matte finishing across the watch. The pushers are not screwed down like the crown but still offers a decent 100m water resistance, helpful if ever you have to ditch your jet somewhere out at sea and hang on for the rescue bird.

The dial has a granular texture that offers a subtle contrast from the case. This looks great and totally apt for a military-themed watch as compared to a dressier sun-burst dial found on the 2021 model. Time is marked by generously-lumed and pronounced Arabic numerals, accompanied by the oversized triangular index flanked by two dots at 12 o’clock, honouring hallmarks of a Flieger. I like the attention to details, exhibited through the day and date disc that matches colour with the dial, and on the chronograph second hand where the lume starts only from the pivot onwards, excluding the tail. Clarity of information matters in flight, especially when the pilot vision is affected at times of high-G manoeuvres.

The Pilot Chronograph 41 is powered by an IWC-manufactured calibre 69380 column wheel chronograph (not cam) with 46 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. 

Take My Breath Away

When the “Jet Black” and “Oceana” Pilot Chronograph 41 TOP GUN was introduced, I thought its just another colour & size variation based on a successful formula launched last year. It isn’t wrong to say that it is really about colours and size. But once the blinds were raised and I saw the blue for the blue it is, I was sold. It was a “you had me at hello” moment. (The Jet Black didn’t make me gasp for air but I’m certain it will find its way to collectors who are all about being tactical).

The “Oceana” is inspired by the U.S. Navy’s blue overalls, which is a very unique tone of blue that is distinctively IWC’s. It is contemporary-chic but subdued enough to still be taken seriously. Combined with the inherently smooth and monochromatic look of ceramic, the watch exudes a certain luxury despite being a tool watch at its core. It wears comfortably on the wrist in a fashionable yet grounded style. This is what Mavericks of the real world wear while playing beach volleyball without the need to shout-out “I’m a fast jet pilot”. 

The rubber strap in blue is a continuation from the dial with denim textile inlay. I didn’t really enjoy the denim texture on the strap at first but somehow it grew on me. Anyway, what other colour do you surmise will match the blue tone? The Pilot Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Edition has certainly breathed new life into IWC’s stable of pilot watches nonetheless.

Dogfighting

Let’s square it out. Technically, the TOP GUN collection is irrefutably based on a steel model launched a few years back and this is not the first time IWC produces a watch in coloured ceramics. Ceramics and IWC goes all the way back to 1986; which makes a worthy article for another time. However, the 2 watches in ceramics featured here “Oceana” and “Jet Black” colours are uniquely a first for IWC or in-fact the world, since it is a colour code specially concocted with Pantone for IWC.

What we should appreciate is the manufacturing process, which involves multiple trials by experienced hands to achieve ceramic in a particular colour. Zirconium oxide is combined with metallic oxides to give the ceramic its color. Achieving each color requires a set parameters of different raw materials, a distinct mixing ratio, temperature and exact duration of sintering.

We just need to like (or dislike) it for what it is, and in this case a colour that is unique to IWC, a proprietary material that is enduring and light, and the TOP GUN branding that appeals to aviation enthusiasts and fans of the movie.

You Can Be My Wingman Anytime

If you are not an aviation enthusiast or a fan of the movie, the colour and material edge that the TOP GUN edition offers is a pretty good proposition given that the watch can be your wingman on a first date to the movies, a night out to the club with your homies or on an adventure trip to experience the Nevada falls. 

Tom Cruise might not have worn an IWC in the TOP GUN sequel, but IWC’s partnership with the legendary Navy Fighter Weapon School (TOPGUN) is as real as it gets. IWC is now the official watch brand to create watches for the entire U.S. Navy and Marine Corps, collaborating and producing Squadron watches available only to current and former members of the unit. Each watch is engraved with the pilot’s name and call sign. How cool is that? 

The Squadron Watches are not available for sales, but it is this knowledge that certain things exists and yet, only accessible to a qualified handfull, makes an object desirable and collectible. It would be just as cool to get a version without another person’s name and callsign. Just like any collecting hobbies, the impulse and fixation on accumulating objects in a certain order can be very satisfying. So for the aviation enthusiasts, a pilot watch with cognitive and visual association with TOPGUN, Fighter Town, F14s, F18s and A4 Skyhawks is going to be something collectible.

Perhaps, what IWC could have done better, is to expand its narrative on how in-depth the collaboration with the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps really is. Finally, if IWC is reading this, it would be really cool to add colours of the “Aggressor Squadron” into the TOP GUN edition and conclude this line with a limited TOP GUN anniversary box comprising all colours of this edition. 

Technical Specifications

IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Oceana & Jet Black

Collection: Pilot’s Watch

Case Shape: Round

Case length (mm): 41.9

Thickness (mm): 15.5

Case Material: Ceramic

Crystal: Convex Sapphire Glass; Anti-reflective coating on both sides

Caseback: Screwed-down Titanium Caseback

Dial: 3 snailed sub-dials; small hacking seconds at 6 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, 30-min counter at 12 o’clock. Day, Date display at 3 o’clock;

Hands & Indexes:
Dagger hands with Super-LumiNova and Super-LumiNova Arabic numeral hour markers

Functions: Small Hacking Seconds, Day and Date, Chronograph

Movement:
Automatic Calibre 69380
46 hours Power Reserve
Frequency 28,800 VPH (4 Hz)
33 Jewels

Water Resistance: 10 bar, Screw-down Crown

Strap/Bracelet:
Matching blue rubber strap with denim-style textile inlay or black rubber strap with EasX-CHANGE system

Portofino Complete Calendar

Available in both stainless steel and 18 karat 5N rose gold, the Portofino Complete Calendar measures in at 41mm in diameter, and is the first watch to include the newly developed complete calendar module from IWC. The watch echoes the original Portofino model of 1981, with its two subdial configuration with running seconds and moonphase indication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar also features two subdials that give the watch a great sense of symmetry, with the 6 o’clock subdial indicating date and month, and the 12 o’clock subdial providing the information for the moonphase and day indications. Recessed pushers on the side of the case provide the adjustment of the watch on months with less than 31 days. The complete calendar pictured here is available on a taupe calfskin leather strap.

Flipping it over, we see the Calibre 32150 that is manufactured by IWC providing a 72 hour power reserve. 

Portofino Pointer Date 

Arguably the most restrained of the two Portofino releases this year, the Portofino Pointer date is a sober watch executed in stainless steel, measuring in at 39mm diameter. A silver plated dial adds to the classic feel of the watch, whilst the gold-plated hour markers, leaf-shaped hands and subdial surrounds add warmth to the dial.

At 6 o’clock is where the date subdial is located, indicating the date through a blue leaf-shaped hand to match the shape of the hour and minute hands. Powering this watch is the Calibre 35160, built up on an ETA/Sellita base movement, giving 50 hours of power reserve. The watch is delivered on a brown calfskin strap, and is equipped with a strap quick-change system, enabling the wearer to change the look and feel of the watch at a whim.

The Portofino collection has been one of IWC’s top performing collections for good reason – their timeless style will never go out of date, and no matter how old the Portofino, it will always find a way to fit into the modern man’s wardrobe.

With the addition of the Complete Calendar and Pointer Date, the Portofino collection has a complete set of calendar watches to choose from – with increasing levels of functionality and complexity to boot. These two watches are sure to appeal to those who are first time buyers looking for an absolute classic – one that will stay in their collection for years to come.

Technical Specifications

IWC Portofino Complete Calendar

Features: Mechanical movement, central hacking seconds, complete calendar with display for the date, day, month and moon phase, see-through sapphire glass back

Movement

IWC-manufactured calibre: 32150

Frequency: 28,800 vph/4Hz

Jewels: 21

Power Reserve: 72h

Winding: Automatic

Watch

Materials:

Ref IW359001: Stainless steel case, silver plated dial, gold plated hands and appliques, blue calfskin strap

Ref IW359002: 18 carat 5N gold case, silver plated dial, gold plated hands, solid gold appliques, taupe calfskin strap

Glass: Sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides

Water resistant: 5 bar

Diameter: 41mm

Height 11.8mm

IWC Portofino Pointer Date Ref. IW359201

Features: Mechanical movement, central hacking seconds, pointer date indication, quick change system for easy change of the strap

Movement

Calibre: 35160

Frequency: 28,800 vph/4Hz

Jewels: 25

Power reserve: 50 h

Winding: Automatic

Watch

Materials: Stainless steel case, silver plated dial, gold plated hands and appliques, brown calfskin strap

Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides

Water resistant: 5 bar

Diameter: 39mm

Height: 10.8mm

The original starting point of the Ingenieur has its beginnings in 1955, with scientists and engineers in mind. This would form the principles of every Ingenieur – to house an automatically wound movement, and to have a soft iron inner case to deflect magnetic fields away from the movement. The latest Ingenieur model takes its inspiration from the original Ingenieur SL model, reference 1832, designed by the legendary Gerald Genta. According to Hannes Pantli, an IWC legend, and former Sales and Marketing Director, he describes the Ingenieur SL as a model created to reduce the brand’s reliance on gold watches, as the circumstances of the 70s made it necessary for IWC to utilise more steel in their collections. 1976 would see the Ingenieur released in its SL guise, housing the 8541 automatic calibre, and it earned the nickname of “Jumbo”, for its size and bulk – somewhat ahead of its time.

The Ingenieur Automatic 40 released this year takes its inspiration from the Ingenieur SL model, and is designed with an integrated “H-link” bracelet, and as its name suggests, the case measures in at 40mm. A set of crown guards extend from the crown-side of the case, and they are an addition to make it a modern sports watch. The bezel echoes the 1976 model with its screw holes, and in this version, five screws secure the bezel to the case, ensuring that alignment is consistent across production.

Looking across the case and bracelet across both available metals, the polished chamfers allows the Ingenieur Automatic 40 to exude refinement, whilst retaining a utilitarian look with its large flat surfaces that receive a brushed finish – the titanium model receives sandblasted and polished finishes that give it a different kind of rugged refinement.

The dials receive a “grid” treatment, consisting of small lines off-set at 90 degrees to each other. This pattern is stamped into a soft-iron blank (crucial for the Ingenieur’s anti-magnetic properties), before being galvanised to give its colour. To finish it off, Ingenieur Automatic 40 comes equipped with a date window at 3 o’clock.

Water resistant to 10 bar (100m), the Ingenieur Automatic 40 comes in steel with black, silver and aqua coloured dials, and in Grade 5 titanium with a grey dial – a model that pays tribute to the brand’s competency in manufacturing titanium (IWC created the first titanium watch for the public in 1981).

Housed within the sporty frame is the IWC 32111 manufacture movement, with 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve, and is equipped with an automatic pawl winding system, enabling efficient bidirectional winding. The case also incorporates a soft-iron inner case protecting the movement from magnetic fields that can affect timekeeping rate and accuracy.

On the wrist, the 40mm diameter and 10,8mm thickness ensures that this is a watch that will suit a variety of wrists. It is smart, elegant, and at dimensions that allow you to forget that it is there, as you go about your day. It can also very easily fit under a shirt cuff, and gives many of the other integrated bracelet incumbents a run for their money. With the horological legitimacy, elegance and technical significance, this is a watch that was destined to be a popular when it was first announced.

The new Ingenieur is most definitely refreshing after the slew of Pilots Watches coming from Schaffhausen, and at the very least, it gives their biggest ambassador, Lewis Hamilton, something to honour the engineers that craft his car, rather than something that belongs in the skies and in the cockpit. However, as much as this watch should be the perfect storm of a watch – with a design pedigree from Gerald Genta, while capturing the zeitgeist of integrated bracelet watches, and housing a functional and high performing movement, we can’t help but feel that this watch is priced ever so slightly too high. At 12,000 CHF for the stainless steel models and 15,000 CHF for the titanium one, it did exceed the expectations of many watch fans who balked at the prices when the watches were first announced.

For long-time IWC fans, seeing a simple three-hand watch with date at the price this is set at might evoke a sense of alienation, given their history of creating high quality tool watches. The IWC Ingenieur collection of old proposed a great deal of value with its unique mechanisms (for example, the 7 day automatic, or their intriguing chronograph movement), and given the state of the industry, and the number of novel movements currently released by competing Maisons, one would not be mistaken for thinking that this value proposition is absent from this latest release. We recognise, however, that this is the beginning of a refreshed Ingenieur collection, and only further development and time will tell whether this collection will possess this value or not.

Who knows? It might just be a pricing strategy that the C Suite executives at IWC have thought through very carefully and for reasons that we at ISOCHRONO are not able to understand.

Nevertheless, fans have long waited for the return of an Ingenieur model that pays tribute to the Ingenieur SL, and they have got their wish in 2023 with the release of the Ingenieur Automatic 40. Incorporating a manufacture movement with long power reserve, preserving the aesthetic codes of the vintage model, whilst bringing it into the present with everyday conveniences like 10 bar water resistance, crown guards and a model available in titanium. As CEO of IWC, Chris Granger-Herr stated, “The Ingenieur Automatic 40 is a versatile luxury sports watch for the 21st Century” – and we would whole-heartedly agree with him. This is one of those watches that respects history, whilst being thoroughly modern and wearable – what a watch should be for the modern watch enthusiast.

Technical Specifications

Features: Mechanical movement, date display, central hacking seconds, screw-in crown, soft iron inner case for magnetic field protection

Movement: Manufacture calibre 32111, 28000 vph/4Hz, 21 jewels, 120h power reserve, automatic winding

Materials:

Ref. IW328901: Stainless steel case, black dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, integrated stainless steel bracelet with butterfly folding clasp

Ref. IW328902: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, integrated stainless steel bracelet with butterfly folding clasp

Ref. IW328903: Stainless steel case, aqua dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, integrated stainless steel bracelet with polished centre links and butterfly folding clasp

Ref. IW328904: Grade 5 titanium case, grey dial, black hands and appliques, integrated grade 5 titanium bracelet with butterfly folding clasp

Water resistance: 10 bar

Diameter: 40mm

Thickness: 10.8mm

Pricing:

Stainless steel variants (Black, Silver, Aqua): 12,000 CHF / 17,300 SGD –

Titanium variant: 15,000 CHF/ 21,700 SGD

The IWC Mark series saw the quiet release of a new member this year in the form of the Mark XX, but what was curious was how it came into being, since there was none of the pomp and circumstance that such a watch would normally provoke.

In fact the watch suddenly appeared on IWC’s website overnight, leaving those who spotted it wondering whether the whole thing was real or a hoax. Adding to the mystery was the fact that no press releases were sent out announcing its launch, which was extremely uncharacteristic.

Given the iconic status of the Pilot watches in the context of the IWC brand, and easily being the entry point into the most popular collection of the brand for a new collector, it was puzzling and curious at the same time.

And then another strange thing – when I called IWC to inquire about the watch, it was, on that day itself, already available for sale at my local boutique.

Leaving that aside, the new IWC Mark XX does come with a meaningful series of updates that in my book make it the best Mark series watch to buy right now, if you happen to be in the market for one.

The previous model of the series, the Mark XVIII that was launched 6 years ago, was a culmination of many little details that were oftentimes requested by IWC fans, and its appearance to the market was warmly welcomed.

After-all, it had dispensed with the controversial triple date window seen on the Mark 17, while also restoring the Arabic numerals (3,6,9) that went missing on the Mark 16 (and 17) and all while having a modern 40mm size compared to the 38mm of the Mark 15.

These changes made the Mark XVIII a favourite among IWC fans and it was a watch that I saw frequently on the wrists of enthusiasts at watch events.

Yet with all these attributes, the Mark XVIII was by no means perfect. There were still a few things that I thought could have been better, and joyfully, we find that the new Mark XX is IWC’s attempt to address some of the objections of the previous watch, allowing it to inch ever closer towards perfection.

The first thing to note is that IWC skipped having a Mark 19 model, just as they did when they skipped having a Mark 13 or Mark 14. The series of Mark watches therefore goes like this – XI(11), XII(12), XV(15), XVI(16), XVII(17), XVIII(18) and XX(20). Why is it like this? Well, you can blame superstition regarding certain numbers, which is fine by me.

It also comes with a new in-house calibre 32111, which replaces the non in-house Selitta calibre that powered the previous Mark XVIII. While some might argue about the finer details of how in house this movement can be given that the architecture was based on the ETA 2892, I consider the extensive modifications and upgrades by IWC enough of a step to call it one. There really isn’t anything you can object to given that you are getting a silicon hairspring (for better anti-magnetic performance), 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve and all while staying within the expected price range of an entry level watch.

For those who want a truly versatile watch, water resistance has also improved – previously being 60m with the Mark XV to 100m with the Mark XX. This improvement should have been done a long time ago, even as I understand how rigorously IWC tests their watches and how they would likely be able to survive when worn swimming. Still, it does help, with the 100m water resistance of the Mark XX, to allow one, disregarding the leather strap, to be a little more carefree if things are likely to get wet with the watch on the wrist.

Aesthetically in comparison to the Mark XVIII, some elements have been shifted around slightly and overall the dial of the Mark XX is more elegant in my view, with slightly small numerals that allow more negative space, as all as allowing the date window to come in line with the 2 and 4 numerals above and below it. Another nice touch, the date window now comes with a white background, recalling the first two of the Mark series that came with a date complication – the Mark XII and Mark XV.

Finally, the Mark XX solves what I would consider the biggest issue with the Mark XVII, and that is the lug to lug distance. The new Mark XX has a lug to lug distance of 49mm compared to the 51mm of the Mark XVIII. The difference might not seem like much, but this was the main reason that prevented me from buying Mark XVIII for myself. While the longer lugs do proportionally reference the original Mark XI, they did, on the Mark XVIII overhang my wrist when worn. No such issue with the Mark XX, and I would imagine, for plenty of others who I found in various watch forums, who didn’t buy the Mark XVIII when they tried it on.

In fact, it’s worth noting the case diameter and the case thickness of both the Mark XVIII and Mark XX are exactly the same at 40mm and 10.8mm respectively. It is only the lug to lug distance that has changed. That 2mm difference makes all the difference in the world, and I am guessing that IWC listened to the feedback that was out there on the Mark XVIII and acted accordingly.

What can I say to that? Bravo!

My conclusion is that the Mark XX is the Mark series watch to buy if you want to get one from this storied collection. It is simple, legible and iconic, and with the technical upgrades on board, could really be your only watch if you could only have one or it not, the watch you reach for when you want something that just works.

What is one more thing that could be improved? Well, if IWC could bring back the chopped hour hand to the Mark Series, that would be ideal. However as it stands, they are only doing that for the special limited edition watches (like the one shown below) that come out every now and then. So, not really a big deal, but it would be nice.

Two dial variations were available at launch, in either a classic matte black or a more contemporary sunray-brushed blue finish. Black for me please. Singapore price at SGD7900.

Click here to see the product page of the Mark XX at iwc.com

Recently, the Royal Australian Air Force has been one of the branches of the military to get their own commemorative watch, in the form of the Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition “RAAF”, and we got the opportunity to ask an owner about how the watch came to fruition, and their personal connection to the watch.

IWC has historically provided the British Royal Air Force with their timekeepers, with a tender coming from the branch in 1948. The brief was for a watch that was legible, accurate and reliable. The watch would be housed with the IWC Cal. 89 – a movement then renowned for its chronometer-like precision, and now known in modern times for its impressive finishing considering the time period, and the use case. The result of this tender was the iconic Mark XI, a watch that was produced for military use for pilots by both IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The British Mark XIs would be easily identifiable with the Broad Arrow marking (marking it as property of the Ministry of Defence), and later, the circled “T” denoting the use of Tritium as the luminescent material on the dial. IWC would then go on to supply the Royal Australian Air Force in 1957 with 600 Mark 11s, and these would be identified on the case-back with the stores reference number of G6B/346. 

Perhaps the most distinctive feature of the Mark XI is the squared-off hour hand – a feature that has appeared on a small handful of models. Some of these include the regular production Mark XII, XV, and in more modern times, special editions from IWC such as the Mark XVIII Tribute to Mark XI, the Mark XVIII Edition “Hodinkee” and the Automatic 36mm Special Edition for The Rake and Revolution. If you count the pilot’s chronographs as well, we can include the reference 3706, and the ceramic reference 3705 along with the recent “Tribute to 3705”

This is a feature that only the most hardcore IWC enthusiast will notice since most of the Pilot's watches available now from the brand feature the alpha style hands derived from the 1940's B-Uhr watches used by the German Luftwaffe. This was a handset that was originally chosen for the original Mark XI as a response to complaints from British RAF pilots who wanted a highly legible handset that could be read easily in a vibrating cockpit.

It's certain true regarding the legibility in my experience, although why it is so easy to read the position of the hour hand and thus tell the time is a little difficult for me to explain. The only explanation I can think of compared to the typical alpha hands is that with the squared off hour handset, the hour hand and the minute hand are effectively different shapes, which might help to differentiate the two more easily. Not so with the B-Uhr alpha hands, as both the hour and minute hands are the same shape but differing in length. Perhaps it is more difficult to differentiate the different lengths in a violently shaking cockpit?

Certainly, because of the handset's legibility, and it's distinctiveness as part of a military oriented design that saw active duty use without change for a long time, it is the one feature that will make any student of IWC history instantly sit up and take notice for its significance especially when it appears on a new watch.

This is the reason why this new special Automatic Edition "RAAF" is so special, since with the handset it has since it not only joins a small list of IWC Pilot's watches that have it, it can also trace its lineage directly to the original Mark XI, and more specifically as well to those Mark XI watches that were issued to the Royal Australian Air Force in the 1950's.

The Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition “RAAF” combines modern materials with cues from Mark XI watches of the past to create this edition honouring Australia’s service-people in the RAAF. The 41mm case is executed in matte black zirconium ceramic, giving the case its lightness, but also a high resistance to scratches. The blue dial is made vibrant with the use of a sunburst effect emanating from the centre of the dial - it features a date indicator at 3 o’clock, and the hour markers are designed in the typical Mark XI fashion, where a triangle replaces the 12.

The hands are also inspired by IWC Pilot's Watches of the past - the tip of the hour hand is squared off, contrasting with the minute hand which forms a point, along with a white seconds hand with a red tip. A very subtle marking on the dial denotes this as a model for service-people, with “RAAF” being pad printed above the words “Automatic” at 6 o’clock. The watch is delivered on a blue IWC textile strap that undoubtedly gives great comfort on the wrist.

Turning the watch over, the solid titanium caseback is emblazoned with the Royal Australian Air Force roundel -  a kangaroo in motion. This is also where each watch is personalised with the owner’s name, callsign or nickname. Behind the caseback, powering the watch is the in-house IWC 32111, equipped with 72 hours of power reserve, and the Pellaton winding system for efficient winding on the wrist.

Ownership

Obviously, none of us at ISOCHRONO are current or former members of the RAAF to be able to get our hands on this watch (Martin comes close by virtue of being Australian, but that’s about where the similarities end), however, we managed to track down someone who is. Tom (@time.poor) is a currently serving member of the RAAF and we asked him a few questions about his role in the service, and what the watch means to him.

What is your involvement with the RAAF?

I am an Airborne Electronics Analyst, flying in a P-8A Poseidon based in Adelaide, Australia. (Author’s note: according to the RAAF, the P-8A Poseidon is used for intelligence, surveillance and reconnaissance, and this particular aircraft plays a role in anti-submarine warfare, anti-surface warfare, maritime surveillance and search and rescue.)

What does the watch mean to you and your service?

As a watch enthusiast, I’ve always flown wearing a pilot’s watch, IWC being my personal preference as the epitome of military aviation. When the opportunity arose to get a personal, limited edition IWC with my own details engraved on the caseback, I jumped at the chance.

What do you like best about your new watch?

The ceramic matte black case contrasting with the blue sunburst dial is my favourite feature, closely followed by the blunt hour hand which is a throwback to the IWC Mark XI that was issued to RAAF Pilots in the late 50s and 60s. In my opinion, the IWC cannot be beat in terms of legibility, especially in low light. The simple design, shape and feel is second to none. The history and nostalgia having supplied military pilots for decades also really appealed to me - it’s an accolade that means a lot to me.

How did the collaboration come about, and how did you find out about it?

An RAAF pilot has been working with IWC over the last couple of years to get this watch designed, developed and marketed.

Conclusion

IWC’s Military Programme has produced some exceptional commemorative watches for the men and women who serve. This new RAAF edition carries on the history that IWC has with Australia, and will no doubt be a reason as to why the Pilot’s Watch collection will remain a firm favourite of the Australian market for years to come. Combining modern construction and vintage details honours those past and present, and we cannot wait to see who IWC will honour in the future with watches from the Military Programme.

Thanks to Thomas Inslay (@time.poor) for the photos in this article.

Tech Specs

Features

Mechanical movement, date display, central hacking seconds, screw-in crown, glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure, soft-iron inner case for magnetic field protection

Movement

IWC-manufactured calibre 32111

Frequency: 28,800 vph/4Hz

Jewels: 21

Power Reserve: 72 hours

Winding: Automatic

Materials

Materials: Black ceramic case, blue dial, black hands, blue textile strap

Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides

Water resistant: 10 bar

Diameter: 41mm

Height: 11.4mm

Yes it’s true, starting from this weekend at the inaugural Miami Grand Prix, you’ll be able to spot members of the team – including designers, aerodynamicists, race engineers, strategists and mechanics, or basically everyone visible on screen during the F1 broadcast – wearing the same IWC Pilot’s Chronograph with a distinctive green colour scheme, which is the same green as the corporate colour of Petronas, team sponsor and Malaysian petroleum company.

Not to worry if you’re not part of the team but want to imagine that you are, you can buy your very own official Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 team watch at IWC’s website (iwc.com), although some caveats will apply depending on where you are located that I’ll get to later.

It’s a good move for team sponsor IWC since it’ll be a real world test of the toughness of the watches. They’ve been designed after all for a hard life banging around cockpits on the wrists of fighter pilots. This is a fact that should ensure that they survive in the tough environment of an F1 paddock, and if not, give feedback for IWC’s engineers to come up with new solutions that should trickle down towards the watches that we can buy. There’s really nothing like a real world test to validate the abilities of a watch, and it’ll be interesting to see how the watches hold up.

The watch itself is the very attractive IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 watch bearing the inhouse calibre 69385 chronograph movement equipped with a column wheel, with a power reserve of 46 hours and that is visible from the sapphire caseback. The case comes in the F1 appropriate grade 5 titanium, which is lightweight and very strong, sitting at 41mm wide and with a sandblasted finish that results in a greyish shimmer to its look.

The most distinctive aspect of the watch however, has to be the distinctive Petronas green colour scheme that adorns everything on the black dial, and this includes the hands, the subdials, arabic numerals, the date numerals and even the IWC logo. It makes for a very unique look that in normal circumstances might come across as too strong – but given that we know what this watch is for, the colour is entirely appropriate and even emotionally resonant.

The lume is, in typical and historically correct IWC fashion – with the iconic Mark 11 as a guide – only on the hands and the 3, 6, 9 and 12 hour markers, so expect usable lume but not a light show in the dark.

If you’re a fan of the team, there’s no other watch that you should consider buying, other than perhaps what Lewis Hamilton himself chooses to wear, out of the number of IWC watches he owns, though perhaps he might start wearing this one too more often in solidarity with his team.

Also good to know is the fact that the watch will come with two straps, one Petronas green rubber and another on black leather with green stitching down the sides. Both straps are easily swapped out due to IWC’s proprietary EasX-CHANGE® system. I’m guessing that team members will be sporting the more visible rubber option during the heat of the Miami GP, so that is something that you should look out for.

Now regarding buying this watch if you’re in South East Asia – as of today, IWC’s e-commerce retail option is not yet available for the region so if you want to get this watch the only way that you can do so is if you physically buy it at IWC boutiques in Singapore.

I’m told that IWC cannot send it to you if you’re outside Singapore (and within South East Asia) so the best option to get one is to rely on a friend in Singapore to purchase it on your behalf.

This situation might change sooner than later, and as far as it stands this watch is not a limited edition so there’ll be possibilities to purchase it down the line.

Aside from fans of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 team, I can think of one other group of people who might be interested in this watch. Given that the Petronas Green is one that Malaysians are all too familiar with – seen at Petronas stations all over the country while filling up their cars – wearing this watch might just be a good way to show their love and support for their country’s national petroleum company. Just a thought.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Edition “Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team
(Ref. IW388108)

Features
Mechanical movement – Chronograph function for hours, minutes and seconds – Date and day display – Small hacking seconds – Screw-in crown – Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure – See-through sapphire-glass back

Movement
IWC-manufactured calibre 69385 – Frequency 28,800 vph / 4 Hz – Jewels 33 – Power reserve 46 hours – Winding Automatic

Case
Sandblasted Grade 5 Titanium, Diameter 41 mm, Height 14.6 mm

Dial
black dial, black hands, black embossed

Straps
Calfskin leather strap, green rubber strap included

Water-resistance
10 bar

Price – 8360 Euro

It would of course be only a matter of time that more variations would be announced, and two new ones have come in December for the Spitfire collection. The first is this version in bronze with a green dial (right), and the second, a version in titanium with a unique, enthusiast oriented dial (left).

Now, I was a little bit taken aback when I first started to see pictures of this new Big Pilot Spitfire 43 online, because I thought it was an old model that I had somehow missed. The reason? This was a Big Pilot with a Type B dial, which in my memory, had never existed before. I was soon to find out that this was indeed a new version of the Big Pilot 43, and when that happened I was instantly excited.

I mentioned before that this was an enthusiast oriented model so let me explain. Any well schooled fan of the history of horology and IWC will know that the brand’s Big Pilot line traces its roots to the 1940’s “B-Uhr” watches (shortened from “Beobachtungs-uhren”, or German for “Observation watches”.) These were important tools for navigation while flying, and were made by five watch companies, A. Lange & Söhne, Wempe, Lacher & Company/Durowe (Laco), and Walter Storz (Stowa), in accordance with strict specifications imposed by the German Luftwaffe or airforce.

The “B-Uhr” was introduced with a Type A dial at first, with the hours in Arabic numerals around the dial, with the 12 o’clock position occupied by a triangle for dial orientation, a design that the current Big Pilot’s watches are based on. Very quickly however in 1941, the B-Uhr watches transitioned to the Type B dial, this time with the minute Arabic numerals in 5 minute increments taking the place of the hour Arabic numerals, with the latter being moved into a smaller concentric circle into the middle of the dial.

It’s easy to know why when you think about the job that these watches were doing. Because they were used for navigation, it was the smaller units of time measurement that were more important to a navigator. With the large central seconds hand that was hackable already a prominent feature, the next important piece of information for a navigator was the minutes. By placing the minutes in five minute increments prominently around the dial, there was less possibility for error in reading the time, in a dark, cold and vibrating cockpit.

This is probably the reason why the hour Arabic numerals and its concentric circle in the Big Pilot 43 Spitfire are rendered in grey, since it is lower priority in the information hierarchy for a navigator.

This is the reason why this new Big Pilot 43 Spitfire is so significant. It’s the first time that a Type B dial has been introduced by IWC in modern times, and maybe ever, since I have not been able to find an example of a 1940’s IWC made B-Uhr with a Type B dial – (Please correct me if I am wrong.).

It was a genius move to make this watch with the Type B dial within the platform of the Big Pilot 43 collection because it has a very unique attribute – no date complication. This allows the Big Pilot 43 Spitfire to retain the clean proper look of the dial because a date window would be difficult to place properly without disrupting the design.

The orienting triangle at the 12 o’clock position is slightly different compared to that in the 1940’s Type B watch since it is placed lower than the one in this Big Pilot Spitfire 43. I personally prefer the implementation of this, as it is done in the same way as implemented in the 2017 “Mark XVIII Tribute to Mark XI”. Placing this triangle at the edge of the dial out balances out the four cardinal points on the dial, which like the “Tribute to Mark XI”, has a cream colour that is meant to recall aged tritium. This of course necessitates the removal of the 15, 30 and 45 minute Arabic numerals, which on balance works well.

Another nice feature is that the watch comes in a titanium case, which not only allows the watch to be very light on the wrist, but also allows the case to have a greyish tone, which in combination with the matte textured surface, looks very much like the vintage B-Uhr watches, which were military tools that were created with no ornamentation.

Rounding off the package is a brown calfskin strap (lug width 21mm) that looks the vintage part, yet with the modern convenience of a deployant clasp and the new EasX-CHANGE system.

Overall, this is a very well put together and compelling package for the horological enthusiast who will be able to recognize the significance of the aesthetic features that it has. I, for one, was not disappointed when I was able to see this watch in person since it seems to be done right in almost every way, passing even the on the wrist test given its sweet spot proportions and lightness.

In fact, it might just be the purest expression of the original 1940’s B-Uhr , much more so – dare I say it – than the venerable Big Pilot watch at 46mm, which to be fair, should be considered an evolution of the original with its power reserve, and small seconds sub-dial and date window. Either way, it’s a choice that you now can make, which can only be a good thing.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

CASE : Titanium, Diameter 43.0 mm, Height 14.4 mm, Screw in crown, Water resistance 10 bar

MOVEMENT: 82100 Calibre, IWC-manufactured movement, Automatic, self-winding, 60 hours Power Reserve,
Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 hz), 162 Components

FEATURES: Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields, Glass secured against displacement by drop in air pressure Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, Pellaton automatic winding, Central hacking seconds

STRAP: Brown calfskin strap with EasX-CHANGE system , Strap width 21.0 mm.

In order to remain fresh and relevant though, one area in which the watch industry enjoys experimentation is through different dial colours – we have often seen blue, grey and tones of brown make their debuts throughout the years. In the last two years however, we have seen a verdant explosion of green dials, not only in models focused for more casual wear, but also permeating through classically designed watches as well. In 2021, we have seen this trend persist through the releases at the recent Watches and Wonders show in Geneva – here we will explore some of the best green watches that have been released this year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green

The Art Deco legend from La Grande Maison receives the green treatment this year, with a sunburst finishing radiating from the centre of its dial that brings subtle changes to its appearance, depending on the way the light hits it. Everything else is classic Reverso, including a small seconds indicator, Dauphine hands and the emblematic Art Deco gadroons at the top and bottom of its swivelling case. The reverse side is a blank canvas – for the owner to leave clean as a reminder of its Polo origins, or for personalisation (models of the past are renowned for having their owner’s initials engraved on the reverse side). The watch is mounted on a green calf-skin strap in the signature Casa Fagliano style with the stitched fold close to the lugs, and powering the watch is the in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2 – a manually wound shaped movement that features in much of the Reverso line.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 with Green Dial

With the “it” watch of the last few years being discontinued, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711 has its last hurrah with the 5711/1A-014, featuring a subtle olive green dial to be produced for the year of 2021 only. The rest remains familiar – its Gerald Genta design featuring a case and bracelet that has a strong interplay between its satin brushed and polished elements, requiring 55 steps in the process of its finissage. It is a watch that has remained bold in its execution since 1976, with its porthole-inspired design embodying a casual elegance that is virtually unmatched by other watches of a similar ilk. Housed within the stainless steel case is an improved version of Patek Philippe’s reliable Calibre 324 S C – the 26-330 S C upgrades this movement with an improved winding system and hacking seconds. All in all, a fitting send off for the legendary Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A, something that is sure to have collectors champing at the bit to get their hands on one.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

For what was originally meant to be a tribute to tool watches of yore, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight welcomes a precious metal version in 18K Yellow Gold with a green dial in 2021. Sporting an entirely brushed finish, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K manages to make this usually loud material into something rather understated, and even suggests a form of utilitarian toughness. The green of this dial is also slightly muted, whilst simultaneously complementing the yellow gold case with its gilt markers and Snowflake hands. It may not make sense at first, but once you take a deeper dive with the watch, there is an intangible understanding of the method behind the madness. Housed within the 200m water resistant case is the Tudor in-house Calibre MT5400, that is visible behind a sapphire crystal caseback – a rarity amongst watches from Tudor.

Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial

Evoking a lush green tropical forest, the Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial brings the essence of the wild to the wrist. This watch exhibits Rolex’s commitment to dial-making, showing off the Palm Motif in two shades of green, on an olive green background. Whilst this may sound like the colours would blend into each other, the reality is that the shades are distinctive enough for the Palm Motif to be made out, even at just a glance. This variant was presented to us in an Oystersteel case with domed bezel, mounted on an Oyster bracelet. Housed within the 36mm case is the Rolex Calibre 3235, with additions such as the Chronergy escapement that aids with movement efficiency and enabling a 70 hour power reserve, as well as holding the Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification –  guaranteeing timekeeping thresholds of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel PAM01356, Verde Smeraldo

A green dial for an environmentally friendly watch – fitting for a watch featuring the debut of Panerai’s eSteel. The case of the Luminor Marina eSteel contains 89 grams of recycled steel, which, out of the 152.4 grams of the total weight of the watch, comprises 58.4% of the total weight. This includes the trademark crown-protection system that is the signature element of the Panerai Luminor line. This development is remarkable, because it signifies the arrival of Panerai into sustainable watch manufacturing, whereas many other watch manufactures will use virgin  material for the construction of their watches. This notion of sustainability goes right down to the strap and buckle – the strap being crafted out of recycled textiles, and the buckle being hewn from the same eSteel as the watch case. Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre P.9010, automatically wound with 3 days of power reserve. The Verde Smeraldo version, PAM01356, is a boutique and eCommerce exclusive – if you want one of the greenest watches out there (literally and figuratively), best to talk to Panerai as soon as you can.

Cartier Tank Must

Bringing back an aesthetic of the 80s back into the present-day, the new Cartier Tank Must features a set of three monochromatic colours that echo the spirit of the original Tank Must models of the late 70s and early 80s. In particular, a Green dial version is the latest addition to this series, having never before been offered in the Must collection of yore. A vibrant addition to the series, the green is certainly vibrant and eye-catching. The watches feature a dial with no markings – freeing itself from traditional watchmaking design cues, and creating a clean slate of colour. Housed in a stainless steel case, the Tank Must is powered by a Quartz movement, and mounted on a matching strap respective to its dial colour.

Montblanc Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – Lime Gold

Minerva is undoubtedly the unsung hero of Montblanc, creating some of the finest watches that the industry has to offer. For 2021, the brand introduces a slight variation of green to their Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – a case crafted of their exclusive material, Lime Gold. An 18K alloy of Gold (750 parts/1000), Silver (238 parts/1000) and Iron (12 parts/1000), this combination gives a distinctive greenish hue to what is normally a yellow metal. The intended effect is to evoke a sense of vintage aesthetics through its colour – combined with the Cathedral hands, green numerals and the gold coloured dial, the watch certainly evokes the sense that it is from another era. This combined with the colimacon (snail) tachymetre scale, further reinforces the old-world feel of this watch. When the watch is turned over and viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, we see the gorgeous Minerva Calibre MB M16.31 – traditionally hand finished with bridges crafted of German Silver that has been coated with 18k gold. A manually-wound, monopusher split-second chronograph movement, the watch contains two column wheels to control the chronograph and its ingenious split second mechanism.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 – Green Dial

The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is traditionally a design that is conservative, with a black dial echoing the original “Mark” series wrist watches first issued to the RAF in the late 40s and 50s. In recent times, however, we have seen blue and brown dials, paying tribute to Le Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint Exupery respectively. For Watches and Wonders 2021, we see an unusual addition to this line, a green dial version of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 in regular production. Appearing as a rich, dark green, it almost resembles British Racing Green in its tones – the sunburst finishing on the dial definitely helps with this. This new model also features the brand’s EasX-CHANGE system, that enables quick strap changes between bracelet and leather options. Housed within the watch is the in-house Calibre 69385 movement, an Automatic Chronograph movement visible from its sapphire crystal caseback.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer – Green Dial Titanium

The Aquaracer, is a favourite first watch for many people who like watches (certainly in Australia), and this year, it has been given a facelift and an upgrade, particularly in the materials department. Most notably, the green version of this watch now features a titanium case and bracelet, bringing lightness and comfort to this model, in addition to its toughness and high water resistance. The horizontal ridges of the previous models are retained, whilst the ceramic bezel now features a sunburst brushing with a yellow triangle at 12. The bracelet clasp also receives an upgrade, now equipped with a fine adjustment system that is operational even whilst the watch is on the wrist. Housed within the titanium case is the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Automatic, featuring the date at 6 o’clock.

Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint

Bold and contemporary with its choice of colour, the Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked is a mint green number with a DLC coated case. Coming in either 38mm or 42mm case sizes, the brand’s signature Piccadilly case is modernised to enable a better fit on the wrist by integrating the strap closer to the case itself. This duality of the anachronistic, yet modern case lends itself to the movement that hosts the audacious choices of colour. The Calibre SMA02 incorporates darkened bridges on the dial side, as well as a mint green backdrop that accentuates these structures. In addition, the subdials at 1:30 and 9:00 (for the sub-seconds and the dual time respectively), feature mint green accents for an extra colour pop. The movement is also wound through a micro-rotor, and also features a retrograde date underneath the seconds subdial.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes aux Fees Edition

Coming in at only 2mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept remains the thinnest mechanical watch in the world – to honour the place where Piaget continues to further the art of ultra-thin, the brand unveils the Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes Aux Fees Edition, with green integrated components that echo the forests and green fields that surround the manufacture. This watch began its journey in 2018 as a true concept watch, and it was unknown to the public whether this would become a production piece. In 2020, a production version was realised, officially making it the thinnest mechanical watch in regular production. The case, mainplate and bezel is all one piece, and is machined out of a cobalt alloy for rigidity. All of the movement components are placed into the case to reduce its case height to the extremes, and even the crown is rectangular and telescopic to reduce the overall thickness of the watch.

Green on watches is a colour that, when done right, can be incredibly wearable and complementary to many wardrobes. In addition, some of these watches with exceptional colour hold exceptional movements, as seen in some of the examples above. We at ISOCHRONO believe that there is no doubt that green is here to stay, being a welcome addition to many watch collections.

It’s nice when brands hold back something for release only at the start of Watches and Wonders, and unlike the typical IWC that we’d normally expect, this strange surprise that comes out of the blue is the Big Pilot Shock Absorber XPL.

Now let’s start with the strange name of this watch that should already alert you that something different is going on. The “XPL” in the name stands for “experimental” and refers to the Experimental Engineering division, a new part of IWC dedicated to research and development. 

Christoph Grainger- Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, compares this division to Formula 1, in which innovations that arise trickle down over time to normal cars. And so it is the same with their watches, where we’ve already seen innovations like their Ceratanium already coming into the standard production watches of the brand. 

The rest of the name refers to what is essentially the raison d’être of the watch, the ability to withstand extreme shocks to the tune of 30,000G. 

How it accomplishes this accounts for the strange looking circular ring around the dial of the watch, which is the patented SPRING-g PROTECT system, essentially a cantilever spring made out of BMG or Bulk Metallic Glass. If that sounds familiar, it’s because we’ve seen the same material used by Panerai in some of their cases since 2018.

This spring surrounds the movement, essentially isolating it from shock, allowing the flexibility of movement by 1mm in every direction. It’s the same principle we’ve seen used in other watches before – think Casio G Shock watches, Bremont and their trip-tik cases or the Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal with wire suspension. The difference with the IWC XPL is that the shock resistance level is much higher than any of those, at 30,000G, compared to a more typical 10,000 to 12,000G.

The reason why this technology is being used in a Big Pilot watch comes mainly from the fact that the idea for it arose from conversations with fighter pilots. Where the watches endure G forces that are much higher than normal regularly, and in such environments, an impact within the hard surfaces of the cockpit can easily generate forces of up to 1000G easily. 

Despite the fact that the spring takes up a reasonable portion of the dial real estate, the watch itself is only 44mm wide, making it extremely wearable. The IWC-manufactured 32115 calibre used for this watch is different as well, as it is a lightweight version made with aluminium components paired with a tungsten rotor. Rated for 120 hours of power reserve and encased in black matte Ceratanium with a rubber strap on a Ceratanium buckle, it is definitely at the bleeding edge of what the brand is capable of doing. 

One extra interesting feature of the watch when it comes to time-setting. When the crown is in, it is essentially decoupled from the movement, allowing the shock protection system to function. When it comes time to set the watch, there is a system that makes the connection to the crown rigid when pulled out, making the operation possible in that instance. 

Being a special watch like this freshly pulled from the laboratory, the IWC Big Pilot Shock Absorber XPL will be limited to 30 pieces total, with a production of 10 pieces per year for 3 years. Of course, if this is the type of innovation that IWC will start to bring to their watches, then it’ll be exciting to see what else will emerge from the Experimental Engineering division in the future.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

Starting with the Chronograph, IWC has opted for a smaller 41mm case for the new models, which should please those with a more modest wrist size. This is in tandem with the downsized Big Pilot’s Watch, possibly an indication that oversized watches may have outstayed their welcome.

As with its classic collection, these newcomers come in stainless steel case with two dial colour variations: blue, and the ever-so-popular colour of the year, green. The latter is a rather handsome piece, with its red accented seconds hand, paired with a studded brown calfskin strap.

Powering these watches is the updated in-house calibre 69385, on full display with an exhibition case back. Power reserve remains at 46 hours, although water resistance has been bumped up to a comfortable 100 metres.

What is also new is the introduction of what IWC calls the EasX-CHANGE system. Ignoring the issues with the mixed use of upper and lowercase in its name, this is essentially a proprietary system that will allow straps to changed easily without the use of tools. We are told that there will be a variety of strap options that will be made available, in calfskin, rubber as well as a steel bracelet. There were promises of attractive colour options as well.

Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar

Also added to the classic collection is the by-now familiar perpetual calendar that was previously available in ceramic and bronze, in the Top Gun and Spitfire collections respectively. This means a stainless steel case with a blue dial, available in either calfskin strap or a steel bracelet.

Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Edition “Mojave Desert”

This limited edition collection receives two new variations: a perpetual calendar as well as, well, a Big Pilot’s Watch. As the name and the previous iterations suggest, these models feature a desert sand colour scheme, with a ceramic case that is a signature of IWC’s Top Gun series. Both models come on a matching strap constructed with a fabric upper on a rubber base, so rugged comfort is to be expected.

So if ever you decide to embark on a grand adventure in the scorching heat of a desert, be sure to have these on your wrist for optimal camouflage. Or walk the malls in them. Either way, they’ll look cool.

The Big Pilot will have the Top Gun logo engraved on its titanium case back, while the Perpetual Calendar will showcase its movement through a sapphire glass case back.

The former is limited to 250 pieces, and the latter, 150 pieces.