Little did she know however, that about a decade later, MB&F would unveil the HM11 Architect, a piece that has truly blurred the lines between watch and home. She’s still proven to be correct – I can’t live inside this watch, but it is the closest that we will ever get to a watch that has been truly designed in an architectural manner.

From jellyfish, to vintage cars, battle axes and bulldogs, Max Busser draws inspiration from all walks of life. As with all Horological Machines, the watches are a representation of Max Busser’s imagination that is firmly set in the 20th Century. Inspired by the architecture of the 1960s with its curvilinear forms, the HM11 features a distinctive movement design that influences the exterior of the watch – with four pods extending out from the centre.

Posing the question of “What if a house was a watch?”, the HM11’s four pods are the ‘rooms’ of the watch, each featuring a distinct display. Three of these pods house the time (hours and minutes), power reserve (which, like the time pod, uses polished aluminium rods and spheres to display information) and an unusual mechanical thermometer that functions through the use of a bimetallic strip.

The fourth pod is the crown, which seals the watch from ingress of dust and water, but due to its size, is made much more functional with a system of 8 gaskets that make it as easy to use as a regular watch, but with a much larger size that fits the “pod” aesthetic of the HM11. Furthermore, the watch uses a total of 19 gaskets to seal the watch, including a three dimensional gasket that follows the distinctive shape of the watch. Even with its curious structure, the watch remains at 42mm in diameter, with its sapphire and titanium construction.

Housed within the watch is a calibre specially designed for the HM11, that contains a central flying tourbillon. Curiously, the watch is wound by turning the entirety of the case – this provides more torque to wind the mainspring, with every 45 degree turn winding the watch for 72 minutes at a time, for a total of 96 hours of power reserve. The watch is completely wound after 10 full revolutions of the case.

The movement is also suspended by custom springs that sit between the movement and the bottom shell of the case, providing a shock dampener for the movement. These springs are specially alloyed steel with a focus on high hardness, which have their origins in the aerospace industry. As mentioned before, the watch also includes a rare mechanical thermometer that works through a bimetallic strip – the strip expands and contracts with the rise and fall in temperature, and is linked with a rack and pinion system to display the temperature (this is also available in Celsius or Fahrenheit variations).

The HM11 continues Max Busser’s work in making watch enthusiasts smile. Whilst the design might be polarising, and indeed, all of MB&F’s work, connoisseurs cannot help but marvel at the process of thought, design and execution that MB&F put into each of their machines. Looking at MB&F’s track record, it is clear then that they truly believe that a creative adult is a child who survived, and the HM11 is the future dream home of that child.

In the world of MB&F, the Horological Machines are meant to represent timepieces that capture the desires that we had as children – supercars, military aircraft and space ships are a common theme amongst the Horological Machines. The HM8 Mark II can trace its lineage to 2012, with the release of the HM5, the first automotive inspired Horological Machine. The HM5 introduced a double-case construction, with an outer case inspired by the Lamborghini Miura (amongst others) and the Amida Digitrend (a watch that was a victim of the quartz crisis), and an inner case that would serve as the hermetically sealed, water resistant case. This would be followed by the HM8, a Can-Am race car inspired watch, that also combined signature elements of MB&F, including the battle axe winding rotor on the top-side of the watch.

The birth of the HM8 Mark II is a continuation of Maximilian Busser’s adoration for all things automotive, with its distinctive flowing lines echoing that of a Porsche 918 and the Zagato double bubble. Further playing with the inspiration from the Amida Digitrend, the watch continues the use of its speedometer-like appearance, with discs that indicate the hours and minutes. These time display discs appear vertical, however, they are actually mounted in the same plane as the movement – that is, horizontally. The numerals printed on the discs are also applied in reverse, and this is where the genius application of an optical-grade sapphire crystal prism with an integrated magnifier is what enables the display to show time vertically, without complex gearing, as well as being visible on the wrist when one has their hand on the steering wheel.

The HM8 Mark II also features a case design that was inspired by the chassis of the car. Its aforementioned predecessor, the HM5, had a hermetically sealed inner case, to which the “body panels” of the watch were added. This principle of construction is continued in the HM8 Mark II, but this time, with the movement more visible through a double-curved sapphire crystal, reminiscent of a supercar’s engine bay. This type of manufacturing with sapphire crystal always proves to be difficult – being 30-40 times more expensive than a normal domed sapphire crystal used in many other watches, and the incredibly high risk of breakage when forming its complex shape. Only one of MB&F’s ‘friends’ was game enough to take on the challenge (Novocristal) , and succeeded in creating its sensuous curves, whilst remaining just as durable as a sapphire crystal found on any sports watch. 

An unusual material makes another appearance in an MB&F watch – CarbonMacrolon. A composite material composed of a polymer with carbon nanotubes injected into its matrix, offering a much higher tensile strength than traditional carbon fibre reinforcement. This particular blend of CarbonMacrolon for MB&F is able to be coloured and finished in accordance to their exacting standards. Furthermore, the CarbonMacrolon bodywork in this watch is milled from a single block – posing a challenge in terms of three-dimensional machining.

Powering the watch is what MB&F call a “three-dimensional horological engine”, featuring jumping hours, and trailing minutes as seen in the discs – a module developed by MB&F, and is powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement that has proven its mettle for nearly three decades (on a cursory glance, it appears that the movement is a Calibre 3000-series movement). The power reserve is the industry standard 42 hours, beating at 4Hz, and is automatically wound through the battle axe rotor mounted on ceramic ball bearings. 

The watch is delivered on a textured calfskin strap – white for the British racing green model, and green for the white model. Both come with a titanium tang buckle.

Maximilian Busser once said: “A creative adult is a child who survived” – a fitting sentiment in an industry that focuses heavily on provenance and heritage. The use of watchmaking principles to create imaginative machines is what set Max free from his mental prison, and the HM8 Mark II is another way for him to express his love for all things mechanical. Although this machine does not have wheels, in more ways than one, it is still very much a machine that lives and breathes just like an automobile. Watch enthusiasts always look forward to a new MB&F watch, as it brings them back to the time they were children – endlessly curious, and an imagination that runs wild.

Technical Specifcations

HM8 Mark 2 is available:
– in titanium and green CarbonMacrolon® body panel limited to 33 pieces; 

– in titanium and white CarbonMacrolon® body panel.

Engine

Three-dimensional horological engine, composed of a jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed in-house by MB&F, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement.

Mechanical movement, automatic winding

22K gold automatic winding rotor

Power reserve: 42 hours 

Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz. 

Number of components: 247 components 

Number of jewels: 30 jewels

Functions/indications

Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, displayed by dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Case

Grade 5 titanium with green or white CarbonMacrolon® 

Dimensions: 47 x 41.5 x 19 mm

Number of components: 42

Water resistance: 30m / 90’ / 3atm

Sapphire crystals

Sapphire crystals on top, front and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. 

Dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Strap & Buckle

Calfskin strap – white for the British green model and green for the white model with a titanium tang buckle.

As a physiology major in university, Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy played a large part in our studies. A genetic disorder affecting mainly boys, its effect on growing children is devastating, as muscle membrane proteins are unable to repair effectively. Currently, gene therapy is undergoing trials in patients, and it has shown some promise in increasing muscle strength – however, there is still much work to be done in this field in order to develop new therapies for this affliction. 

Every two years, the watch world together with the Association Monegasque contre les Myopathies, works on an auction where all proceeds go to funding research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – as of early 2021, over 70 million Euro has been raised to benefit children afflicted by this disease. It is an opportunity for brands and independent watchmakers to put forward their wildest watches, ranging from prototypes, to altered colour schemes for familiar pieces, all the way to new movements and complications.

For someone who studied physiology, and has delved into the mechanisms of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, it is truly enlightening to see the watch world come together for such a noble cause. It is one of the rare times we see the industry so united, and we think there is no better cause than this for them to create these one-offs.

Our founder Adi Soon has written about his picks for Only Watch – here are my fantasy picks if I had the wallet to help raise money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Akrivia – Chronometre Contemporain II

A darling child of the independent watch scene, Rexhep Rexhepi begins a new chapter in his career with the Chronometre Contemporain II. Retaining the lauded classical aesthetics of the first version of his Chronometre Contemporain, the watch is built from the ground-up as an entirely new timepiece.

A dial with a two-stage production process of grand-feu enamel, followed by a translucent champagne-coloured flinque enamel graces the front of the watch.l  The case, hewn from 950 Platinum respects traditional craftsmanship, and is produced in 14 parts by Jean-Pierre Hagmann – a boitier/casemaker by trade who has been lauded for his minute repeater cases, manufacturing for numerous brands in the past and is now working with Rexhepi. The “JHP” hallmark on the lugs signifies its provenance, and each of these lugs are individually soldered to the case.

Housed within its platinum case is a manually wound movement that is aesthetically similar to what was housed in the previous Chronometre Contemporain, however it now incorporates a dead-beat seconds mechanism, as well as being certified by the Besancon Observatory. This watch also includes an experience of visiting the Besancon Observatory – undoubtedly a package that represents fine watchmaking as a whole, in its craftsmanship and its history.

Blancpain – Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No-Rads

Proving to be incredibly popular amongst watch fans, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms series of watches looks back into the archives, and revives key models that were instrumental in forming the evolution of the modern dive watch. At Only Watch 2021, the No-Rads has been brought back with orange-coloured accents on the dial and bezel to match with the theme of the auction – this can look like an attractive pumpkin-like patina, which vintage enthusiasts are sure to enjoy.

This version for this edition of Only Watch also removes the date window, cleaning up the dial and making it more symmetrical – this is, however, not how the original was presented, but will be sure to please those that love a cleaner aesthetic. The orange colour scheme extends down to the No-Rads symbol at 6 o’clock – instead of yellow and red, it is now orange and yellow. Powering this version of the watch is the Blancpain Calibre 1154, with a custom-engraved rotor commemorating Only Watch 2021.

Chopard – Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

For fans of Switzerland, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the brand’s familiar sports watch, but with the addition of a natural Swiss granite stone dial from the Graubunden region of the country. Speckled with blue and green inclusions, the dial echoes the view of the Alpine region from the sky.

Naturally, in order to view the beauty of the stone dial, the sapphire crystal has the brand printed onto it. The 44mm case is made from Lucent Steel, the same as in the main line collections where a portion of the steel used is recycled – this steel is also harder than traditional 316L Stainless Steel used in many watches. Housed within the fantastic steel case is the Chopard 03.05-C movement, for which 3 patents are filed for the chronometer certified movement, and the watch is delivered on a calfskin strap with a titanium inlay.

Czapek – Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise”

ISOCHRONO are very much fans of this new release from Czapek, and we wrote about it extensively earlier this year. This version of the Antarctique features an orange colour that is CVD coated, done in partnership with Positive Coating.

The movement itself is also the fruit of a partnership – with Chronode, no less. The SHX6 movement displays the entire split seconds chronograph mechanism on the dial side, to display the beauty of its finishing, and the mechanical interactions each component plays when the chronograph is activated.

Housed in Stainless Steel, and measuring in at 42.5mm, the Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise” also features chronograph subdials and a minutes track in fume coated sapphire crystal – the minutes track also features a hidden message from 0-10 seconds – “Courage Every Second” – a message that is fitting for an auction that benefits Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

DeBethune/Voutilainen

On the surface the entry from DeBethune and Kari Voutilainen represents a collision of worlds, with a stark juxtaposition of classic and modern watchmaking in one watch. In reality, the duo of Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen is closer than one might think – they both had the same teacher when they attended watchmaking school, and hence, each side represents their vision of watchmaking.

Kari Voutilainen’s side of the watch continues his very classical interpretation of watch dials, with multiple forms of guilloche visible on the dial, and heavily stylised Breguet-esque hands. Denis Flageollet’s side, on the other hand, displays the hyper-modern watchmaking that DeBethune is famous for – Star Trek-like shapes for the movement components, and skeletonised bridges to expose more of the mechanisms lying underneath.

Voutilainen’s side uses the Isogone display, where a minute ring revolves with the minutes hand. This means that hands will always line up at the hour, be at 90 degrees for 15 minutes past the hour, 180 degrees for the half hour, and 270 degrees for 45 minutes past the hour – the idea being that the display of the hands remains consistent throughout the hours. This side also features a large deadbeat seconds hand. DeBethune’s side involves a rotating minute hand at the periphery of the dial, and the hours indicator curiously positioned where the balance wheel is located – an unusual arrangement, but nonetheless an attractive one that leaves the construction of the movement to speak wonders for the watch. The calibre OW21 housed within has a 4 day power reserve, and features a titanium balance wheel as well as a silicon escapement.

FP Journe x Francis Ford Coppola – FFC Blue

Taking an incredible 7 years from conception to development, the FFC Blue was inspired during a dinner between Coppola and Journe, with Coppola asking if there was any possible way for a watch to tell the time with a hand – and not in the sense that we are used to in watchmaking. Journe took the inspiration of this display from a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Pare, the father of modern surgery, and had to devise a way to display all 12 hours with only 5 fingers.

Furthermore, this is powered by a version of the Octa 1300 movement, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Housed within a weighty tantalum case, the movement is crafted entirely of rose gold, and the rotor is engraved with the names of Ambroise Pare, Francis Ford Coppola, and of course, FP Journe.

The minutes are displayed on a disc on the periphery of the dial with a blued triangular arrow, and of course, the “digital” hours are indicated by the blue hand in the centre of the dial. Whilst we can certainly think of ways that this watch can be even more provocative through the use of its middle digits, this watch is certainly provocative enough with its radical display of time, and incorporation of automata in its construction.

Girard-Perregaux – Casquette, Only Watch Edition

It’s back to the future for Girard-Perregaux at the 2021 edition of Only Watch, as the brand works with Bamford Watch Department to unveil a new version of the famous LED watch from 1976. The watch uses a new movement that utilises an LED display, just like the original Casquette, but protects this in a case of forged carbon and titanium.

Titanium pushers are used to activate the display – just like in the 1970s, LED displays still utilise a lot of power, and the pushers activate the display on demand. Undoubtedly, this is a great way to get vintage vibes from the 70s, whilst retaining an essence of modernity in the form of the case.

Krayon – Anywhere

Featuring a lacquer dial with a mosaic effect, the Krayon Anywhere for Only Watch 2021 features an interpretation of Claude Monet’s “Impression, rising sun” on its Metiers d’Art dial. Distinctive for being the only watch with its Equation of Time and Sunrise/Sunset function capable of being set for any location on Earth, the buyer of this watch will be able to choose the location upon purchase.

The watch also features an incredible amount of fine finishing on the movement – as a prototype, it is finished excellently with manually executed bevels, many of them internal bevels.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch

The shape of the “bulldog” lent itself well to an iteration of this watch in Panda form, with its rounded edges and organic forms. To further the Panda aesthetic, titanium ears were added to domed upper sapphire crystal, the upper case was reworked in stainless steel to accept a black and white lacquer finishing, and a silicon nitride ball was used for its tail. As the Panda is always munching on bamboo, the teeth remain underneath the “eyes/hour and minutes indicators” of the panda – this also serves to indicate the power reserve. To top it all off, the Panda motif is further reinforced with a black and white velcro strap.

Patek Philippe – “Complicated Desk Clock”

For those that managed to procure the entire collection of Patek Philippe watches (including the elusive Nautilus 5711/1A), Patek Philippe dug deep into its archives and based their Only Watch 2021 entry on a clock owned by a famous collector. Originally delivered in 1923, the original clock was ordered by James Ward Packard, and now resides in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The modestly named Only Watch 2021 clock is a veritable horological beast, hewn from Sterling Silver, with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut furniture. Driven by the Calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the clock boasts a power reserve of 31 days with power reserve indicator, a perpetual calendar, jumping seconds and a week indicator shown through a red window at the periphery of the dial. Its precision in construction utilising its Gyromax balance wheel and a 28,800 vph oscillation frequency, the clock is adjusted to within +1/-1 seconds per day – an amazing rate of accuracy for a mechanical clock, and we can expect nothing but the best from Patek Philippe.

Speake Marin – Dual Time Openworked Only Watch The Sun

With the world awakening from its pandemic slumber, it could be said that the Speake Marin is a watch for the times. Equipped with an in-house dual-time movement (the SMA02), the watch is ready to accompany its wearer on journeys across the world.

Contrasting with 42mm DLC coated case is an orange dial that is the thematic colour of this year’s edition of Only Watch, not only representing hope and progress in the world of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research, but also a reminder of the reemerging world.

TAG Heuer – Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A modern reinterpretation of the “Dark Lord” Monaco, the watch takes its inspiration from this vintage model of the 70s, and utilises modern materials to update its look and feel, whilst incorporating thoroughly modern features in its movement construction. The case is made from forged carbon, and the Only Watch 2021 thematic colours of orange stand out against its dark skeletonised dial.

The movement features a ‘gratte’ finish to echo a finishing flag that brings to mind its racing heritage, and the rear of the watch features the largest sapphire crystal case back to ever be featured on a Monaco. Within the forged carbon case is the Heuer 02 in-house movement, that is curiously fitted with a carbon hairspring – continuing the theme of carbon within the movement. It is fantastic to see that the carbon hairspring has made its way back to a production watch, and we can only hope that it is a signal for things to come.

Zenith x Felipe Pantone – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone

All of your chromatic dreams come true – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone brings the artist’s chromatic artistic inspiration to the wrist in an amazing 46mm sapphire case. A rainbow for the wrist, the multi-coloured finishings are applied to an El Primero 9020 movement that features one tourbillon for timekeeping and one for the chronograph itself, beating at 5Hz and 50Hz respectively. Accompanying the watch will be an artwork made by the artist himself. Two whirlwinds are better than one, and with this watch and the accompanying artwork, it will undoubtedly be a colourful one at that.

The HMX did it in 2015, celebrating the 10th Anniversary of MB&F and the birth of the Horological Machines. And so it’s no surprise that the LMX would come this year, celebrating the 10th Anniversary of the more classically oriented pillar of the brand, the Legacy Machines. 

First launched in 2011, the first Legacy Machine, the LM1, departed from the playbook established by the childhood inspired Horological Machines by going all classical, revisiting the traditional codes of watchmaking as a new collection. 

While it was partly seen as a move to appeal to seasoned tastes, it was on a conceptual level meant to be the answer to the question – what would the classical watchmakers of the old era produce in their style if they were alive in the modern era with modern manufacturing abilities?

To this end, while the Legacy Machines came with round cases, enamel dials, metier d’arts decorative techniques and hand finishing, there was most certainly a slightly more playful spirit at work. You could recognize the ingredients, but these were watches that skewed from traditional forms, morphing into something new that felt like it was the right answer to the question that the collection itself posed in its conception. 

Afterall, what could be more novel than raising the balance wheel of a watch, right up to the top of the movement, smack dab in the middle for all to see? 

It’s been 10 years since the LM1 was first released, and the line has departed from the numerical scheme of the Horological Machines, and gone off flying into different directions. 

We have no, in the lineup, the LM Perpetual (perpetual calendar), LM FlyingT (ladies driver style tourbillon), LM Thunderdome (triple axis tourbillon), and now we come full circle with the LMX. 

The form of the LMX does not surprise, it combines the audacious domed crystal, and the tilted time side-dials of the FlyingT, coupled with its shape and compact case dimensions, and then it  sprinkles into the mix, the signature complication of the LM1, with its two independent time subdials, with corresponding setting crowns. 

It is a more open display of the underlying mechanics as well, as seen by the three large wheels that are particularly visible, with the two placed next to each winding crown, set in motion when setting the time on the corresponding time display, while the one at 6 o’clock is the common seconds’ wheel.

The balance wheel in this watch is also new. It is large at 13.4mm in diameter, and unlike a traditional screwed balance, it comes with inertia blocks that offer greater accuracy under regulation.

Lastly, of note is the new hemispherical power reserve indicator, which showcases the astounding 7 day power reserve on offer, with arched arms that move down to show the remaining power reserve in either a countdown from 7 days, or as a countdown from Monday (full power) to Sunday (no power). This power reserve indicator can also be adjusted by orientation, allowing the wearer to choose which scale they would prefer to see, by continuing to wind the battle-axe crown even after the power reserve is fully replenished.

The LMX is available in two limited launch editions, the first in 18 pieces in 18k red gold with black NAC treatment on plates and bridges, and the second in 33 pieces in grade 5 titanium with green CVD treatment on plates and bridges.

With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

Because of this, I’ll be focusing on the H. Moser side of the collaboration in this article and leave the other watch from MB&F for another time.

Now this is a watch that definitely makes a dramatic first impression since the first thing that grabs you is the bulbous and tall sapphire crystal. Then when you look closer, you see the two main elements of the watch against the Moser fumé background – the 40°inclined dial and the tourbillon just behind it.

The layout of the watch is familiar, and that’s because its main design ideas come from the MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT, which was a stunning vision of a ladies watch from the brand’s founder, Maximilian Büsser.

The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is different though, and not for the obvious reason of being housed in an Endeavour case, but for the thing that is in its name, the cylindrical tourbillon.

Here it is, visibly beating away. As its name implies, it’s not flat, like most hairsprings are, rather its shaped like a cylinder, which makes the most of the height of the sapphire crystal since it is visible from all sides. The cylindrical hairspring was invented in the 18th Century and was used mainly in marine chronometers due to its performance advantage.Over a traditional hairspring, it breathes concentrically and therefore geometrically, without being affected at the attachment points (pivots) of a traditional flat hairspring. In fact, the Phillips terminal curve and Breguet overcoil were invented to counteract these excessive forces on normal hairsprings since they move the point where the hairspring starts its concentric movement a little further down away from the pivot.

This cylindrical hairspring is attached via a Breguet overcoil at each end, which isolates its concentric movement, and allows it to breathe optimally.

It’s not widely known, but H. Moser and Cie is one of the few brands that make their own hairsprings, which is why they were able to make the one that appears in this watch themselves. In fact, they have been supplying hairsprings to other watch brands like MB&F for many years.The 40° inclined dial is yet another interesting detail to look at on the watch. The hands make their movement around a clear sapphire dial with the H. Moser & Cie logo and the hour indices printed on it.The clear dial set at an angle allows the wearer of the watch to look at the time when it is on the wrist, as well as allowing a clear view from all angles of the conical gear train just behind it, that transmits the torque from the mainspring from the plane of the movement to the plane of the sapphire dial.On the wrist, the watch with its 42mm wide case wears well, but the only thing which might be a little nerve-wracking is its 19mm height, which makes this a watch that one wears rather carefully. Still, this is a watch that is more an art-piece than an everyday one, and so this can be forgiven.I’m genuinely pleased that this watch was created, and that’s because H. Moser & Cie has really come a long way since its relaunch. In 2013, when Edouard Meylan took the helm as CEO, I asked him what his vision of the brand could be, given that they had been until that time relentlessly classical in their watchmaking. He told me then with a straight face that he did not know.Well, he obviously worked it out.

H Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph

Yes, while H. Moser & Cie still makes classical dress watches on leather straps, the brand is becoming more multi-faceted, with water-resistant watches that you can swim with and the surprising and amazing bracelet-ed Streamliner this year, he has steered the brand to encompass more than its initial classical genre, to embrace more of watchmaking’s possibilities as a whole, while keeping a clear brand and design identity all the way.Now, with the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, and some magic dust from MB&F, H. Moser & Cie has a new possibility in front of them, to go into the sort of declarative watchmaking that is all about pure creativity. What will come from this in the future? Well, I’ll be excited to see. With Edouard, there’s no point predicting what he will do since you’ll probably guess wrong.The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F comes in five separate 15 piece limited edition runs per dial colour (Funky Blue fumé, Burgundy fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé or Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern) and all in stainless steel.

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Their pioneering idea – to break away from watches as time-telling devices with traditional complications and to re-imagine them as objects of art. Specifically of course, along the theme of recapturing the essence of the toys of childhood and pushing their forms to become the toys of adulthood.

It has been a thrilling idea to follow, with each new creation causing a sugar rush to the brain, with the excitement prompting anticipation to the next crazy thing to emerge from the brain of Max Busser and his co-conspirators. 

But I did have a thought along the way – just how far could this idea be pushed? How many forms could be realised within the limitations of the available ingredients? It was a hard thing to embark on for sure, and with each new Horological Machine imposing a crazy schedule on the development process, it was something that only the bravest or the most foolhardy would attempt. 

Well the new Horological Machine by MB&F – the HM10 “Bulldog’ does offer a clue. 

For starters, the new HM10 ‘Bulldog’ looks more like a frog, and this is on account of the bulbous time telling discs that look like eyes (hours on the right, minutes on the left). It’s basically what we’ve seen before of course, in the earlier HM3, that had variations re-imagined to be a frog and even with the fantastic Boucheron collaboration, an owl. Over the top of these, we find the brand’s signature hovering balance wheel, an idea that has been seen before in the Legacy Machines of the brand. 

What makes this a ‘Bulldog’? Well, two things, the first, a unique power reserve indicator that acts as the mouth – which is closed for empty and opened with a full row of teeth for full. Then there are the lugs that purport to be the legs of the ‘Bulldog’.

Ok. So I’ve stared at the pictures left and right, up and down, and I don’t see it. I can’t see the ‘Bulldog’. What I see in a frog instead – and the body of the watch and the lugs does look like a frog about to jump. Ok then, how about I call it a bullfrog instead? Maybe a mean bullfrog since it has teeth? 

Don’t get me wrong, it’s a nice design, and as it is if it were a continuation of the HM3 Frog, I would gladly accept this new watch as another episode in the continuing chapter of the brand and have nothing more to say. If the advertising visuals had the watch sitting on a leaf, I would feel that all was right with the world and I would be content. 

Perhaps it was time to venture into creating a new animal? Or perhaps there was some necessity to appeal to the British by making a watch in tribute to their signature dog breed. Who knows? All I can say is, that with eyes like those, I’m not convinced in any way that it can be anything other than a frog, which makes the engraving found on the underside of the watch -“Forget the dog, beware of the owner”, feel a little strange. Of course, it’s nice, as in all MB&F watches, that the in-house developed movement has taken the signature horological ingredients from the previous watches and made this one. I’m all for it, because that’s how you build a brand identity with the special things that you create. I also like the symmetry of the dual crown system at the top of the watch (while it is on the wrist) for separating winding and time setting.The new HM10 ‘Bulldog’ is available in two launch editions, one in grade 5 titanium with blue “eyes” and another in red-gold and titanium with black “eyes’. So tell me what you think? Dog or Frog? 

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This is why we see faces in random patterns and attribute human characteristics to the objects that we see them on. It is also a reason why when a face appears on a watch, our relationship to it changes.

I know this because my Azimuth Mr Roboto is not just a watch that tells me the time, it is also a friend that I have imaginary conversations with. Why?

A watch with a face can seem to stare back when you look at it, and it is easy to anthropomorphize it by giving it a name, a personality and even, whether jokingly or not, by speaking to it.

So it got me wondering if there were other watches that were similar to Mr Roboto in this regard. Intuitively of course, one might look to the many Skull type watches that exist, but I wanted to find watches that went the extra mile, watches that go beyond just sticking a picture, whether fancily made or not, on what is for all intents and purposes, a standard watch. As a result here are my criteria.

1. The watch in question must not just have a picture of a face on the dial.
   2. That the case is obviously the head.
   3. That the elements of the “face” are part of the time-telling function – (read: no hour and minute hands sprouting from the centre of the dial.)

This means that something like the Fiona Kruger Skull fulfils the first and second criteria but not the third. Also, it goes without saying that all the watches on this list should be mechanical.

It was quite difficult to narrow it down, but here is a short list of watches that fulfil the criteria. Choose one of these and you’ll have a friend who will tell you the time and even maybe talk to you when you need some company.

1. Konstantin Chaykin Joker

The Joker from Konstantin Chaykin has to be the most emotive watch on this list, and that comes not just from the way the eyes look independently in all directions – depending on the time, but the details that give it a playfulness. This is the brand’s most memorable and shall I daresay – iconic – watch, and it comes from the unique vision of Konstantin Chaykin himself, who has managed to come up with a collection of watches, apart from this one, that all have something special about them. The version shown here, is a unique piece, nicknamed, “The Mime”, and all monochromatic themed version that was made for Singaporean collector @watchinery. Other variations with interesting themes are also available as seen below.

The complication is achieved by adding an 8 jewelled module on top of the ETA 2824-2, dividing out the hours (left) and minutes (right) to each eye, and then adding an additional crown at the 9-o’clock position with recessed corrector for correcting the moon-phase display that is shown by the tongue as it moves across the mouth.

It is easy to tell the time with this watch, and it is probably also the easiest to react emotionally to it, since the way that the eyes move can make the Joker’s face look crazy, calm or serene at different times.

As proof of how unique the vision of Konstantin Chaykin is, look no further than the watch he made for Only Watch 2019, the Joker Selfie, which is essentially a self-portrait of the namesake watchmaker. Look for the distinctive beard and eyebrows that decorate this piece, and also a very unique additional complication hidden in the left eye which wears a watchmaker’s loupe. When worn on the wrist and flipped up towards the wearer to read the time, the hidden secret hour is revealed.

Find out more at www.konstantin-chaykin.com

2. Azimuth Mr Roboto

The Azimuth Mr Roboto, compared to the aforementioned Konstantin Chaykin Joker, has a more stoic appearance, and that’s on account of the indications that do not seem to move as much. It’s a robot after all- what do you expect?

In Mr Roboto, the robot eyes contain rotating discs that display the current hour (left) and the dual time zone (right). Retrograde minutes are handled by the robot’s mouth, while seconds (to mainly indicate that the watch is running) are shown by the rotating red triangle which is the robot’s nose. This is a watch that is potentially useful for travellers since you can independently change your second time zone as you would any dual timezone watch.

This watch was inspired by 1950’s lantern robots from Japan and it shows – even the crown is a large key that one can imagine winding up your lantern robot with, as you would do with this watch.

The main criticism that came with this watch was that the time was a little difficult to read, given that the hour indication in the eye was too small. That was what prompted the release of the second version, Roboto 2, which had a bigger case with bigger eyes and a bigger mouth. It does solve the readability issues of the first version, and it makes the robot have a different look. There are fans for either, but my preference is for the first version, since I don’t really wear Mr Roboto to tell the time.

Find out more at www.azimuthwatch.com

3. CLVII Skull Watch

Now this is a watch that is relatively affordable, offering a design that fulfils my criteria and has a great wrist presence to boot. Offered by high-end French street wear brand, CLVII, it uses its distinctive logo as the face of the watch – a skull wearing sunglasses. Interestingly the brand name – CLVII – are Roman numerals for the the number “157”, the number of the shop on 157 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris that founder Julien Léonard, established the brand in June 2007.

Don’t go running there however if you want to visit though, as the store has since relocated to 93 rue de la Verriere in Paris.

The CLVII Skull watch is a distinctive watch for sure, and though it stands tall at 18.5mm thick, the articulating lugs on the case help to make its 51mm length manageable on small wrists.

The time is told with rotating discs in the aperture of the skull’s forehead, that tell hour and minute as referenced by the red triangle. Running seconds are also included to indicate that the watch is running.

To keep the price manageable, the CLVII Skull runs an automatic Seiko movement, that just proves that inventive horology can come from a simple movement if the concept is done right.

Buying the CLVII Skull Watch is also a treat when one looks at the packaging, which is basically a black plastic skull from which you can retrieve your watch. They even give you a nice CLVII cap for you to wear to complete the look with the watch on your wrist.

The watch is available online at the CLVII website, or from our friends at Watch Wonderland (https://wonderland.watch/) in Singapore.

Find out more at Time in France

4. Kopf Concept Skull Watch 

In my research to find watches that fit my criteria, I came across this one that seems to look a bit of both a robot and a skull.

The Kopf Concept Skull Watch is an interesting looking one for sure and it comes from the mind of master watchmaker and vintage watch restorer, German Polosin, who operates out of Bristol in the UK, and Moscow in Russia.

Similar in concept to the Konstantin Chaykin Joker, the eyes show the hours and minutes in such a way that readability is not compromised. Even at night, the time is easy to read since the dial and hand pointers are lined with self illuminating tritium tubes. Aside from that it’s the case design that makes the Kopf Concept so intriguing. The articulation in the case comes at the jaw of the skull, making wearing on the wrist easier. This portion also hides the crown in and among the teeth.

Only 100 pieces of the Kopf watch will be made and each will have to be pre-ordered. This allows owners to select the materials from which the case will be made (18K gold is offered as well), as well as the serial number, and engraving for initials.

The Kopf Concept Skull can only be ordered from Polosin via the website at what is frankly a reasonable price of 4560 GBP for 2020, with the price rising to 5400 GBP in 2021.

Find out more or order one at http://kopf.watch/

5. MB&F Jewelry Machine

The Jewelry Machine is a watch that I’ve seen in person only once, and it was an experience to remember since it is even more impressive in the hand than in the pictures that you see here.

There are two versions available but the one I saw, the Jewelry Machine Purple is a mesmerising exercise in high jewelry, courtesy of a collaboration between MB&F and famed jeweller Boucheron.

What’s really surprising about this watch is when you consider how thoroughly transformed the Horological Machine No.3 or HM3, the underlying chassis of this watch, was.

Now I know that this watch is unlike the others in this list so far, that have a humanoid face. Even though this watch is an owl instead, it still does have a face and it still does look at you, and it goes one better by having the case as the entire body of the owl, instead of just the head.

Why an owl then? Well, aside from the obvious symbolism and its distinctive looks, the practical reason must be because of its big eyes, that proportionally allow the time telling cones of the HM3 to work aesthetically. With the hours and day/night indicator on one cone and the minutes on the other, telling the time is not an issue with this watch. Although you probably won’t be buying it for this reason.