The Rolex Deepsea Sea Dweller has always been one of my favorite watches and I have on occasion toyed with the idea of buying one. Yet between the ever escalating (real) prices of their sports models and the occasional hangup of wearing such a big and heavy watch for everyday use, I have somehow always shied away from pulling the trigger. 

Well, it seems, the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep collection from Omega might just be the credible alternative that might entice me, since it not only has a deeper water resistance (3,900m vs 6,000m), but there is also a titanium model that might be light enough to be more bearable as an everyday watch. 

How did Omega attain its deep water credentials? Well, despite having the “OMEGA Marine” from 1932 – the world’s first divers’ watch available to civilian divers with its cleverly designed “double case”, the Seamaster 300 from 1957 – the brand’s first professional diving watch, and even the saturation diving capable Ploprof in its history, any new deep water Omega had to make a bolder statement than all of the above. Afterall, there was a clear number that they needed to beat.  

And so it was with the original Ultra Deep from April 2019 that Omega stunned the world by marking their place in the sand with a new depth record. On this occasion, three Ultra Deep watches joined explorer Victor Vescovo on a mission to the bottom of the Mariana Trench and reached a depth originally recorded as 10,925 m (35,843 ft) and later updated to 10,935 m (35,876 ft) – the deepest any human or watch has ever dived. 

This beats the record set by the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, a watch that accompanied filmmaker and explorer James Cameron to a depth of 10,908 m (35,787 ft) back on the 26th of March 2012. 

In similar fashion to the Rolex record attempt, the Ultra Deep watches were attached to the outside of Victor Vescovo’s submersible – with two on its robotic arm and another strapped to a data-gathering unit known as a Lander, with all three watches enduring the 12-hour dive without a problem.

Check out this documentary (linked below) on the record-breaking dive with the original Omega Ultra Deep from 2019.

The original Ultra Deep was rated to 15,000m or 49,212 ft compared to the civilian versions that you can buy that are only rated to 6,000m. It’s much the same story in Rolex land, with the record setting Deep Sea Challenge rated to 12,000m compared to the normal Deepsea Sea Dweller, rated at 3,900m.

It goes without saying that the depths that these watches are capable of are needlessly impractical since the human body can only withstand a tiny fraction of it, yet the technology is still cool. Furthermore, if considered as an engineering exercise, the technology of these watches might prove useful within the liquid oceans of other planets when the human race can get to them (equipped with Speedmaster Professionals of course.)

Which version should you get then? 

Well, if you’re a watch geek like me, get the titanium version no question. 

It is afterall the one that is closest to the original Ultra Deep from 2019, sharing the case material – forged grade 5 titanium, with the same streamlined asymmetrical case design, brushed ceramic bezels with a Liquidmetal diving scale, as well as the distinctive and robust “Manta lugs”.

These Manta lugs are the coolest part of the watch, but their design necessitates the use of a NATO strap, which may or may not be to your taste, since it can look a little bunched up at the top side. If you like to wear your watches on a NATO strap, then you’ll be pleased to know that the one that comes with the watch – striped in cyan and black – is made from polyamide yarn that is sourced from recycled fishing (Save the earth!), and comes with all metal hardware in grade 5 Titanium.

If however you’re not too keen on the NATO, I say still get this version, since it doesn’t look too difficult for someone to design an aftermarket rubber strap that can be fitted to these lugs. 

The other six references are for those not as keen on the record-breaking association and perhaps are more mainstream in their appeal. There is still the same 45.5mm size, 18.12mm thickness and 6,000m water resistance but there are three main differences. The first is that you get a number of color options (try doing that with a Deepsea), the second is that you can get these visions on a rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet, lastly they come in a brand new type of stainless steel called “O-MEGASTEEL”.

I know what you’re thinking, something similar happened in Rolex land at Baselworld 2018 with the brand introducing their 904L steel variant called “Oystersteel”. 

I’m not particularly impressed with these new steels since I’m no metallurgical expert who can test the claims but I get it, it’s a good method of market differentiation. 

In Omega’s case let’s just take their word for it. From the press release: O-MEGASTEEL is notable for its superior strength, whiter color and incomparable shine. It also offers exceptional resistance to corrosion for a longer-lasting appearance.

Movement wise, the watches are driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912, which is, in the vein of all modern Omega’s, Master Chronometer (METAS) certified. This means, as accords with my experience, the highest standards of precision, performance and magnetic-resistance (greater than 15,000 Gauss). 

What’s more this watch comes with the markings “For Saturation Diving” on the caseback, which are included to meet the ISO 6425 standard for saturation divers’ watches. The difference here is that unlike other diving watches, this too is certified by METAS, which is a first in the watch industry. 

Lastly and most impressively, this civilian Ultra Deep, (not the original from 2019), was actually  ocean-tested to a depth of 6,269 m (20,567 ft) in the Mariana Trench in 2021. I’m pretty sure that this is the only production diving watch that has gone so deep before and by doing so, actually proving the depth rating on the dial – how cool is that? 

A viable alternative? 

Size, when compared to the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller (44mm wide and 17.7mm thick) won’t really be a factor even if the Ultra Deep is slightly larger (45.5mm wide, 18.12mm thick), since both options are very much at the extreme end of what is comfortable enough to wear on the wrist. 

If however, having a date complication is important, then the Rolex is the clear choice, since the Ultra Deep doesn’t have one. Although the case can be made that having no date is the proper way to do a watch like this, since when diving, knowing the date is unimportant. The people who make these arguments will also say that you can use your mobile phone to get the date, which is less frequently required than the time. 

There is definitely a cool factor associated with owning and wearing the deepest diving watch available to civilians, and if that’s the case, the Ultra Deep wins. But then, it wins by 27m, which is not much. 

I think though that it’ll probably come down to which brand one resonants with more strongly, and the individual features and options that each brand presents. Though it’s very clear, if you’ve always been thinking about getting a Deepsea, you should check out the Ultra Deep first before making a decision. 

Technical Specifications

Movement:

OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912 – officially certified by METAS; Frequency: 25,200 A/h (3.5 Hz); Power reserve: 60 hours; Exclusive features: Magnetic resistance: 15,000 gauss, Silicon “Si14” balance spring, OMEGA free sprung-balance, Co-Axial Escapement, 3 levels, 2 barrels mounted in series NIVACHOC 

 Display 

– Central hour-minute-seconds hands 

Materials

Flagship model in Grade 5 titanium – [ZrO₂] ceramic bezel ring,  NATO strap: Grade 5 titanium hardware and polyamide. Rest of the models in O-MEGASTEEL.

Case

– Diameter: 45.50 mm; Height: 18.12 mm; Lug-to-lug: 56.00 mm, Water resistant: up to 600 bars (6000 m / 20000 ft). Four patents pending on the technical design; Front EFG sapphire crystal: domed, protuberant and scratch-resistant with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; Caseback: sandblasted grade 5 titanium, wave-edged, screw-in caseback with oriented sandblasted grade 5 titanium medallion laser engraved with “PLANET OCEAN”, “SEAMASTER”, “PROFESSIONAL”, “Ω”, “CO-AXIAL”, “MASTER CHRONOMETER” and “DIVER’S WATCH 6000 m FOR SATURATION DIVING” 

Bracelet

For titanium model – Black NATO strap with cyan stripe, made from polyamide yarn, sourced from 100% recycled fishing nets. Others – with rubber strap or O-MEGASTEEL bracelet. The rubber straps feature a technical diving suit structure on the upper surface, along with an O-MEGASTEEL buckle. For the metal bracelets, OMEGA’s patented extendable foldover rack-and-pusher has been included, with a complementary length adjustment and an extra diver extension – perfect for use around a thick wetsuit; Fitting: 22 mm between lugs, 22 mm on buckle 

Others 

International 5-year warranty; Delivered with a Master Chronometer certification card, ensuring that the watch has passed the tests certified by METAS; Conforms to the requirements of the ISO 6425:2018 standard for saturation divers’ watches 

The aptly named Speedmaster Chronoscope (a combination of two Greek words: Chronos – “time” and Scope -”to observe”), is an instrument meant to aid in the measurement of all things time related. Bringing back an aesthetic commonly seen in Omega chronographs of the early 20th Century, these multi-scale watches would often feature a tachymeter for speed, telemeter that was often used to tell how far away a thunderstorm is, and a pulsometer for measuring heart rate – these would often form a spiral or concentric-circle pattern on the dial, leading them to be colloquially known as “snail dials”. These new Speedmaster Chronoscope watches echo these early watches with their multi-scale designs – a unique design trait for a watch of the modern era. 

Measuring in at 43mm, in stainless steel or Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold case, the watch is a bi-compax chronograph with subdials for the running seconds at 9 o’clock, and an integrated hour and minute chronograph subdial at 3 o’clock. Arabic numerals make the dial very readable, even with the amount of scales on the dial, being applied numeral markers that bring extra depth to the dial. The aluminium bezel insert (colour matching with elements on the dial) is the trademark tachymeter for which the Speedmaster is famous for – the Speedmaster was the first watch with a tachymeter bezel in 1957, after all. The Bronze Gold model, however, sports a brown ceramic bezel, its sheen adding a further touch of luxe to its warm toned case. 

Towards the centre of the dial, we start to see the additional scales that distinguishes this watch from its moon-faring brethren – the first internal scale we see is the telemeter, graduated in kilometres, and further inside the dial we see the pulsometer, graduated for thirty pulsations. The last two scales we see are additional scales for the tachymeter, for speeds slower than 60km/h or 60mph, and slower than 30km/h or 30mph (this watch can theoretically measure average speeds as slow as 20km/h or 20mph, according to these scales). Even with all of these graduations on the dial, the watch appears incredibly symmetrical in the vertical plane – furthermore, there is no date window to disturb other dial elements, making this dial very pure in its appearance.

The stainless steel models are mounted on a bracelet similar in style to the Speedmaster Professional watches that made their debut in 2021, albeit with a quick-adjust system in the clasp with two positions, for when your wrists swell in the heat. Leather straps are also available for the other stainless steel models, with a vintage style, two-stitch tan colour calfskin available for the blue dial, blue alligator for the silver model, and a semi-perforated black racing-style calf-skin strap with red lining for the panda dial model. The Bronze Gold model comes on a vintage style, two-stitch chocolate calfskin on a Bronze Gold buckle. 

Housed within the watch, is the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908, a movement that is very similar to ones found in Omega’s automatic Master Chronometer chronograph movements. A differing point from other movements before it is the finishing – the Geneva waves in Arabesque appear to emanate from the balance wheel, instead of the centre point of the movement – a first for Omega. Like all mechanical watches coming from Omega, the movement is also Master Chronometer certified, passing stringent tests for power reserve, precision and water resistance – tested while cased up, the last control before delivery to the customer.

Omega have inadvertently given Speedmaster lovers something they didn’t know they wanted. While it is surprising to see a Speedmaster with the “snail dial”, there is an old-world charm to the Speedmaster Chronoscope that cannot be avoided. With its vintage charm, familiar case and imminent wearability, the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope is a watch that reminds us of Omega’s past in creating elegant chronographs for the sporting gent or lady.

Tech Specs

Case: Stainless Steel, or Bronze Gold

Dial: Two models with silvery dials and blued hands / Two models with blue dials and rhodium-plated hands / Two models with silvery dials and black subdials with blackened hands / One model with oxidized bronze dial with special patina finish – and opaline silvery subdials

Strap and Buckle: Stainless Steel bracelet or straps in brown, blue or black (microperforations revealing red interior on black strap). Buckles with Omega logo in positive relief. Polished/brushed steel bracelets with patented comfort release system. Brown leather strap with polished/sandblasted bronze gold buckle for bronze gold model

Movement: Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908,

Manual-winding chronograph with column wheel and CoAxial escapement. Certified Master Chronometer,
approved by METAS, resistant to magnetic fields reaching 15,000 gauss. Silicon balance-spring, 2 barrels mounted in series, time zone function. Central hour, minute and chronograph seconds hands, small seconds counter, 12-hour and 60-minute counter. Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.

Water Resistance: 50m

Omega announces another extension to the Aqua Terra line – this time, models with small seconds, in large and small cases, in precious metals, stainless steel and combinations of the two. 

The original release of the Omega Seamaster model in 1948 was originally designated as one of the first lifestyle watches of its time, able to withstand splashes and submersion during playtime with the family. Omega’s latest release, which is part of the Aqua Terra line has some passing resemblances to this original model in its dial design, with the modern sensibilities of Master Chronometer certification, and a wide variety of dials and materials to choose from.

At the 38mm end of the size spectrum, there are eight watches in either stainless steel or combinations of Sedna Gold and stainless steel, with new dials in dark or light green, a “linen” finished dial that appears almost beige or champagne in its colouring, as well as a white mother of pearl dial – all available with different levels of diamond setting for the hour markers, as well as the subdial ring. These models are available on a choice of leather or metal bracelets, depending on your preference, and your penchant for colour. There are an additional two models that are executed completely in Omega’s Sedna Gold with diamond set bezels, one on bracelet with a purple jade dial, and one on a red alligator strap with white mother of pearl. All are powered by the 880X movements (the 8802 for the steel and bi-colour metal models, and the 8803 for the precious metal models), that are Master Chronometer certified, equipped with the signature Co-Axial Escapement, designed for longevity, and better chronometry over time.

The new 41mm models continue the design traits of the “teak deck” pattern on the dial, echoing the finishing found on some of the most finely manufactured watercraft. Four models are available in steel, and one in stainless steel and Sedna Gold – compared to the original models of the Aqua Terra, majority of these models have been given two-tone dials: blue-grey, silvery-blue and silvery-beige (although one model in this lineup has been given an all-silver coloured dial with black markers). Depending on the model, they will be fitted with a metal bracelet, or a complementary-coloured integrated rubber strap with a woven texture on a deployant clasp. Another four models are crafted out of Sedna Gold, with a two-toned dial in blue-grey or silvery-beige, and are available with a luxurious Sedna Gold bracelet, or an integrated rubber strap. As with all new Omega mechanical movements, the 8916/8917 movements in these watches are Master Chronometer certified, and contain the brand’s much-lauded Co-Axial escapement.

Opinion

When the team at ISOCHRONO first saw these models, we were initially frightened that Omega had completely replaced the Aqua Terra line of watches with these new models with small seconds subdials. Whilst we can see somewhat of a historical link, we truly feared that a mainstay of the brand would be changed yet again. Thankfully, this remains an extension of this classic collection, and will only serve to give watch-buyers more choice when they arrive at the boutique. The Aqua Terra is certainly the choice of someone who wants versatile elegance for everyday wear, and opinions will certainly be divided as to what model looks most elegant (out of the centre seconds model, or the small seconds model). 

Overall, this new Seamaster Aqua Terra model brings more variety to the collection, experimenting with new colours, whilst bringing the dependability that modern Omega watches are known for. For those looking for everyday elegance, you would be hard-pressed to go past the Aqua Terra collection as a whole, and it is only made stronger with more choices than ever.

Movement/s
38mm models: Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8802 /8803 (Sedna Gold Models, featuring Sedna Gold Balance Bridge and Sedna Gold Rotor

41mm models: Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8916 /8917 (Sedna Gold Models, featuring Sedna Gold Balance Bridge and Sedna Gold Rotor

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date

Dial/s
38mm models in steel/steel and Sedna Gold: Dark green, light green, linen, ‘extra white’ mother of pearl

38mm models in Sedna Gold: Purple jade or ‘extra white’ mother of pearl

41mm models in steel: blue-grey, all-silver, silvery-blue and silvery-beige

41mm models in steel/Sedna Gold: blue-grey

41mm models in Sedna Gold: blue-grey, silvery-beige

Case
Stainless steel, Stainless steel and Sedna Gold, Sedna Gold

Case Dimensions
38mm and 41mm diameter

Strap
38mm models: Alligator strap on deployant or metal bracelet

41mm models: Integrated textured rubber strap on deployant or metal bracelet

It just always seemed to be out of reach as I started getting more interested in watches. By the time I was (barely) able to afford one, the black-dialled iteration of the 116520, my choice of poison, had become rather popular and could only be found at a 20% premium through resellers. The premium escalated rapidly, and availability started becoming scarce. In 2016, I marvelled at the beauty of the newly launched 116500LN. This time, the white dial called to me like a siren beckoning sailors to their doom. I’m sure I don’t need to go into detail about how it was impossible to buy it at list price.

I briefly considered snapping it up with a 50% mark up when I saw it at a reseller, but very quickly dismissed that momentary lapse of judgment, chiding myself for being insane to even contemplate what was obviously irrational and impulsive behaviour. To my dismay, I watched the price balloon even further within months, and I beat myself up for hesitating and being rational. At that point, I had pretty much given up all hope of ever laying my hands on one. And then something happened that was nothing short of a miracle.

No, I was not contacted by the dealer to inform me that it was finally my turn to receive one. I am rather far down the food chain. A dear friend of mine, however, was not. He received a message to inform him that a new, very limited, shipment had arrived and he was allocated a piece. He had, for reasons unknown, expressed interest in the watch to the dealer despite not actually wanting it. He recalled, bless his soul, that less than a week before I had mentioned to him that the Daytona was the one watch that I wanted but could never get. And he decided to make it happen for me.

And so, after years of yearning, I finally obtained that one elusive timepiece thanks to that saint of a man. It has been almost a year since, and I have enjoyed wearing it as much as I possibly could despite the lockdowns and madness characterised most of 2020. In that short span of time, there have been several new additions to my collection. At the time of writing this, I have even placed a deposit for the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down, a true masterpiece of a chronograph movement that has been blessed by the great Phillipe Dufour. Surely some of that love for the 116500LN would have waned by now.

Not in the slightest.

There are many things to love about what is quite possibly the most desirable watch in the world. It maintains the svelte case that has long been discontinued in all other popular Rolex professional series watches in favour of a more chiselled and heftier chassis. While the super case added a greater degree of masculinity, it robbed the brand of the elegance found in earlier models. Even though the case size is the same at 40mm (pre-2020 Submariner), the Daytona wears smaller which makes it an easy fit for all wrist sizes.

The introduction of the ceramic, or in Rolex speak – Cerachrom, bezel did not alter the wearability of the Daytona but delivered the promise of a watch that will continue to look its very best in decades to come due to the scratch-resistant properties of the new material. While tastes are highly subjective, I personally feel that the polished black bezel contrasts beautifully with the steel and the white dial.

This is not a subtle watch by design. The oyster bracelet features polished centre links to match the case. In the light, practically every aspect of the watch glitters and demands your attention. This “bling” factor makes the Daytona much dressier than your typical tool watch, which at this point begs most to reconsider even calling it one anymore. As resistant to scratches as the bezel is, the same cannot be said of the case and bracelet, both of which are prone to the rigours of daily wear. Fortunately, there exists now protective healing shields that you can have applied to various parts of the watch to prevent scuff marks. I have had them on since getting the watch, and I can confidently say that they work brilliantly. And they are barely visible too. But enough about my obsession for pristine watches.

The busyness of the dial has been a subject of many discussions, but I personally have no issues with it. Five lines of copy is hardly unusual for a Rolex dial, and despite them coexisting with the sub-dials, nothing seems out of place. I even like the red Daytona label above the seconds sub-dial, which adds a spot of colour on an otherwise monochromatic palette. This is all very familiar as the layout has been in existence since the release of the reference 16520 in 1988. Legibility remains high despite the sum of all its parts.

As a timekeeper, the calibre 4130 is no slouch, as hinted by the “Superlative Chronometer” printed on the dial. Official technical specifications indicate a variation of ±2 seconds per day and real-world usage confirms it. Activating the chronograph feels smooth and precise, with a satisfying click to indicate actuation. So you can expect precision, whether you are timing a lap around the track or ensuring that your soft-boiled egg has the preferred consistency. I mostly use the chronograph for the latter, if ever, and I always buffer sufficient time to unscrew the pushers to prepare them for use. A small price to pay for the 100 metres of water resistance they accord.

So it wears well, looks good, and tells precise time, but the same can be said of many other timepieces. The real question is whether true love exists, and if it can be had or parted with for the right sum of money. Well, that depends entirely on which side you are on. I was not prepared to pay incredibly inflated prices to obtain it. For that amount of money I could buy the Zenith El Primero and the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, both of which have greater historical significance, and still have change to spare. Just because Paul Newman wore a Daytona doesn’t mean I have to pay top dollar for it. And it’s not even the same watch!

2021 has had an exciting start so far with the new releases from the aforementioned brands. The Moonwatch has been updated with the new co-axial calibre 3861, and Zenith has just released the Chronomaster Sport equipped with the new El Primero calibre 3600 that operates at 5hz, measures up to 1/10^th of a second and even sports a ceramic bezel. Up against such competition, the Daytona’s lead seems to fade a little from a technical standpoint and its comparatively lacklustre backstory also has less gravitas than its peers.

But if, like me, you have the opportunity to buy one at list price, the Daytona still presents a strong case. Its current cultural status and the strength of the Rolex brand is hard to deny. The availability of the watch, or lack thereof, has a dizzying effect on collector sentiment and to own one puts you squarely in the sights of envious onlookers. Whether I care to admit it or not, the Daytona does imbue me with a certain sense of gleeful pride. I know all of this represents nothing more than bragging rights, but surely that is the primary reason for the existence of luxury watches in the first place.

For more tangible arguments in its favour, the Daytona’s value retention is second to none in this segment. Even if you never plan on selling it, it always feels good knowing that the watch sitting on your wrist is worth far more than what you paid for, meaning that if I have to sell it, I would be paid extra for wearing it. 

I was asked on numerous occasions if I would sell my Daytona for a huge profit to fund my next purchase, and I have dismissed the very notion of it with swiftness and great certainty. I enjoy wearing it far too much and have waited far too long to obtain it. Rolex just knows how to make a great watch and this Daytona, nay, MY Daytona sits comfortably and firmly in my collection. It’s mine and I’m keeping it.

True love does, indeed, exist.

With all of these upgrades, and small tweaks to its exterior appearance, it is certain that this new iteration of the Speedmaster Moonwatch will become an instant classic, with its perfect combination of history and modernity. And so, to kick off 2021, we have the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch collection.

In the world of watches, there is arguably no watch more integral to a brand’s story than the Omega Speedmaster Professional. Having been first created in 1957 as a racer’s chronograph, the Speedmaster would go through a few iterations before settling on its familiar asymmetrical case design in the 60s.

It would henceforth then go on to be utilised in NASA space missions, after being subjected to a brutal battery of tests, including Thermal Shock Tests, Extreme Vibration Tests and Corrosion tests, all while adhering to a timing average of 6 seconds per 24 hours. The Omega Speedmaster would then see its first use in 1965 as part of the Gemini III mission, and would be forever associated with the famed space programs of NASA.

Given its incredible history in the eyes of enthusiasts, it would be incredibly difficult for Omega to make changes to a watch where even minute details of its construction and configuration form part of the fabric of its story. With all of this in mind, Omega set out to improve the Speedmaster Moonwatch, with President and CEO of Omega, Reynald Aeschlimann stating “When updating a sacred timepiece like the Speedmaster Moonwatch, every detail must be true to its original spirit. This chronograph is recognised the world over, so we’ve approached its design with the most sincere respect, while taking its movement to the next level”. From this, we can only assume that Omega has paid tribute to its past, whilst giving the Speedmaster critical upgrades, bringing new standards to wearability, durability and chronometric performance to this emblematic watch.

The latest version of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch gives nods to Speedmasters past, with many of its details being based on the ST105.012 model of the watch – the model that flew up on Apollo 11, the first mission to the moon. With this model, vintage touches can be seen that will delight Speedmaster enthusiasts, including the Dot-Over-Ninety (DON) bezel in anodised aluminium and a “step-dial” where the subdials are raised above the minute track. Even more attention to detail can be observed in the hash marks between each second of the minute track on the dial –  instead of 5 divisions, there are now 3, to better display the fractions of a second according to the beat-rate of this new movement.

The steel versions of the watches are available in a hesalite crystal or sapphire crystal version, just like the outgoing models before them. Furthermore, there is now a visual difference on the dials between the two models that have the different crystals on them – on the sapphire crystal models, we can see an applied Omega logo, like early Speedmaster Professionals of the early 60s, and on the hesalite crystal models, they feature a painted logo, similar to the previous version of the Speedmaster. No longer will you need to spot a milky white ring or to feel the temperature of the crystals to determine what model you are looking at.

This vintage touch extends to the bracelet that appears to be inspired by the limited edition Apollo 11 Anniversary model in Moonshine Gold, or the ref. 1479 bracelet seen on many vintage models of the past.

The caseback of the watch is where the subtle reminder of the Speedmaster’s lunar history is engraved, and for this new edition of the Speedmaster, it has been redesigned to resemble the double stepped casebacks of vintage models. On the Hesalite crystal models, it is equipped with a closed caseback with the Hippocampus logo familiar to those who have seen many a Speedmaster of the past. This closed caseback features an engraving of “Flight Qualified By NASA in 1965 for All Manned Space Missions, The First Watch Worn On The Moon”, reminding us all of the certification date of this legendary watch.

The Sapphire crystal models are equipped with a sapphire crystal caseback, exhibiting a familiar movement, but with many key differences that bring it into the modern era.

If the exterior of the watch can be described as vintage inspired, then the interior of the watch is no less vintage inspired as well, but with today’s watchmaking sensibilities. The new calibre 3861 is now a movement in full production, having only been utilised in Anniversary models in the past (This includes the Apollo 11’s two 50th Anniversary models in steel and Moonshine Gold, as well as the Silver Snoopy 40th Anniversary model). The movement remains hand-wound, as per the original movements, however, they have been fitted with a free-sprung balance wheel with a silicon hairspring, as well as utilising more anti-magnetic components in their construction. As such, Omega saw fit for these movements to undergo Master Chronometer certification, and all new Speedmaster Moonwatch models will now come with this additional certification. As with many models in the Omega collection, the Master Chronometer certification ensures that the watch will not vary from 0 to +5 seconds a day, as well as maintaining its timekeeping abilities at different states of power of the mainspring, its water resistance, and most significantly, unperturbed when exposed to high magnetic fields of greater than 15,000 Gauss.

Steel is undoubtedly the most popular model in the Speedmaster Moonwatch collection, given its historical significance, and is available in a multitude of configurations: Hesalite or Sapphire crystal options as well as a steel bracelet or strap options (fabric strap for the Hesalite model, or calf leather for the Sapphire model). Precious metal models have transitioned in and out of the Speedmaster collections over the years – some as regular production models (such as the Yellow Gold versions that were available on leather and bracelet), or as anniversary models (who could forget the all Platinum version of the Apollo XI 40th Anniversary Speedmaster on Platinum bracelet). In 2021, we see two new precious metal models in the Speedmaster Moonwatch collection – an 18k Sedna Gold model, and an 18k Canopus Gold model on Alligator leather strap and bracelet options. Omega’s Sedna Gold is a form of Rose Gold that is highly resistant to corrosion and colour fading with its addition of Palladium into its mix, whilst Omega’s Canopus Gold is Omega’s special mix of White Gold that does not require rhodium plating for a longer lasting shine.

It was always going to be a hard task to incorporate Omega’s newest innovations into the Speedmaster Moonwatch collection without straying too far from the established formulae. With this new collection, Omega has achieved a herculean task of revitalising a watch that is so integral to the brand and to scientific endeavour, whilst remaining true to its roots and bringing its collection in line with modern watchmaking requirements. 

However, one question remains: do you hold out for the new model, or do you rush in to get the old model before stock runs out? I am a firm believer that if you do not own the soon-to-be outgoing Omega Speedmaster Professional, then this is the best way to get into the most iconic watch the brand has to offer. It features all of the latest innovations that Omega has to bring to the table in the world of mechanical watchmaking (with their Master Chronometer certified movement), whilst staying true to the Speedmaster formula.

Furthermore, even with its inherent susceptibility to scratches, the Hesalite model is the way to go, if you are looking for the model that is the closest thing you can get to donning a spacesuit in preparation for Extra-Vehicular Activity. The reason why you get a Speedmaster is for its connection to lunar exploration, so the closer you can get to the original model, the better. It has been almost 50 years since we last stepped foot on the moon, and with the upcoming Artemis missions slated for 2024, there has been no better time to rediscover our nearest celestial body. And for those that say that the Speedmaster relies too much on the Moon for its communication, we at ISOCHRONO ask you this – if you were the first to go to the moon, wouldn’t you be announcing your achievements to the world too?

In any case, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch remains as a watch that carries an important legacy for both NASA and Omega – as a tool watch still utilised by the space agency, as well as the future of watchmaking for one of Switzerland’s largest watchmakers. With the new 2021 collection, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch keeps what has worked for over 60 years, and brings much needed internal performance upgrades that will keep it going for the next 60 years.

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And while Omega might not have invented the movie watch, they did formalize the process thanks to Jean Claude Biver, releasing watches for fans so that they might be worn while watching the movie, a nice way to get into the shoes, or in this case, the wrist of a movie character.

The last outing as Daniel Craig as James Bond in the new film “No Time To Die” this upcoming April is no different, with a new and specially designed Seamaster 300M that will adorn the character’s wrist.

While it might look like a regular Seamaster 300M, it’s the details that mark it out as something quite special and unique. Most significantly, it’s the fact that titanium is being used in this watch, the first time of any of the James Bond editions. Then there is the colour scheme that clearly gets its cues from the past, with beige lume on the indices and skeleton hands, and even in the hour scale markings on the aluminium diving bezel.Something to mention about the titanium used, here, which is also in the titanium mesh bracelet on one of the variations of the watch, a first for the brand, it is Grade 2 rather than the more commonly used Grade 5. It was a bit of a head scratcher when this fact was revealed as Grade 5 titanium is harder and more scratch-resistant alloy than Grade 2. Aside from the fact that Grade 2 titanium was more commonly used in earlier titanium watches which aligns better with the watch’s vintage vibe, I’m guessing that that the reason it was chosen might have something to do with its excellent aqueous corrosion resistance against such chemicals such as calcium chloride, cupric chloride, ferric chloride, various concentrations of acetic acid, high temperature seawater, most organic media and more.Perhaps the choice of the material might be saying something about the plot of the movie? I’m guessing we’ll have to wait till April to find out.

I wasn’t able to see the titanium mesh bracelet that is one of the options, but I was able to see this version on NATO style strap. Because the watch head is in titanium and with this almost weightless NATO strap, the entire package on the wrist feels almost like nothing at all, which is probably a good thing for James Bond as he runs from place to place fighting villains. It probably explains the reason why aluminium was used, instead of ceramic for the bezel insert, again, it keeps to the vintage vibe, and is probably lighter.Of course fans of Bond movies will recognize the pattern on this NATO strap, as it appeared, (sized wrongly for its lug width) on a Rolex Submariner reference 6538 in the film, “Dr No”.

The watch also distinguishes itself by the markings on the dial and on the case-back, that emphasize Bond’s military background. Looking like a watch that might have been issued to Bond by the Royal Navy, there is, firstly, the broad arrow insignia underneath the dial text (to indicate that the watch is military property), then on the caseback, engravings that look like a mock Navy serial number.

What the various numbers represent is as follows: “0552” is for Navy personnel; “923 7697” for dive watches; “A” or watches with a screw-down crown. “007”, well it’s quite obvious. Lastly “62”, a sly hint in reference to the year in which the first Bond film, “Dr No” was released.While it might seem a little disingenuous to place fake military markings on the watch, I’m all for it. It’s a movie after all, and we should have a little fun with our watches. What’s more, if spies like the one that Daniel Craig plays are real, the actual codes used now, would probably be different, so who cares.Lastly like the regular Seamaster 300M Diver: the watch uses the calibre 8806, which is a Master Chronometer, and therefore comes with all the METAS certified goodies like magnetic resistance, superior accuracy and durability among other things.

All in all, a very nice looking watch that is not a limited edition, and can therefore be purchased at Omega boutiques from this month (February 2020) in advance of the movie’s screening in April.

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In short, it was view in which there were plenty of details to enjoy.

Announced today is a new member to this short list, the Seamaster Exclusive Boutique Singapore Limited Edition, which celebrates not just the famous landmarks of Singapore, but the bicentenary of the country’s founding in 1819 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles.

To be clear, while Singapore became an independent republic on the 9th of August 1965, and so will be 54 years old this year. The date of 6th February 1819, the one in which this watch commemorates, remains important since it marks the founding of modern Singapore as a British colony.

The emotional impact of a watch like this will certainly be felt by Singaporeans or even tourists who enjoy the country and the landmarks that are depicted. The full list of landmarks is as follows:

Cavenagh Bridge, Merlion, Esplanade, Marina Bay Sands Hotel, ArtScience Museum, Sir Raffles Statue, Raffles Hotel, Singapore Flyer, Helix Bridge, Supertrees and the Gardens by the Bay.

Aside from the special engravings, the Seamaster Exclusive Boutique Singapore Limited Edition is distinct from the other City Edition watches in that it comes with a white lacquered domed dial, with blued diamond-polished hands, along with the similarly hued OMEGA logo and indexes.

Movement wise, the watch comes with the Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, which is good news for horology snobs since it posses the highest levels of precision and performance that the watch industry can offer today, as guaranteed by METAS (The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology).

The white dial pairs well with the blue leather strap, and with a stainless case sized at 39.5mm, this watch can serve double duty as a formal dress piece or an everyday one. Only 200 pieces of this limited edition watch will be made, with the edition number engraved on the side of the case, and they will only be available at OMEGA Boutiques in Singapore. Available from January/ February 2019 onwards. 

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This movement, based on the Lemania CH27, features a column wheel chronograph and was used by a variety of watch brands such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Roger Dubuis, Breguet and many others and was made between 1941-1968. Omega famously put their version of the movement, dubbed the Calibre 321 into the Speedmaster CK2915 with Broad Arrow hands in 1957, a watch that would evolve into the versions that NASA would pick up later on to test and use in the Apollo program.

With the original Calibre 321 being the movement encased in the watches that went to the moon, that had to pass the stringent tests that NASA subjected the watches to, there is no doubt that it is one prized from a technical and historical standpoint.

With fans of the Moon watch clamouring over the years, for this movement to be brought back, Omega has answered their prayers, just announcing plans to bring Calibre 321 back. No word yet on the watches that they will feature in though, at the moment, though they will probably have some intimate connection to the actual watches worn by Apollo astronauts.

Much like the way that the watches from the Omega 1957 Trilogy 60th Anniversary Limited Editions from Baselworld 2017 were created, that were 3D scanned from real vintage watches, this new movement has undergone a similar process.

The watch used is quite special as well, as it is a Speedmaster ST 105.003, that astronaut Eugene “Gene” Cernan wore on the moon during the Apollo 17 mission in 1972. Omega is currently in possession of this historical piece, as it is now housed at the Omega Museum in Bienne.

More news to come, and no doubt something special is happening behind the scenes. After-all, given that 2019 is the 50th Anniversary of the Apollo 11 landing on the moon, we should expect more Speedmaster goodness in the months leading up to the 20th of July, 2019.