Today is the first day of the second edition of “Spring Sprang Sprung”, a watch fair for independent micro brands. Obviously the first one you had last year was successful enough that you considered doing it again. Tell me about what happened between the end of the last fair and now.

Basically the decision to do the second one was easy based on the results of the first one. For the first edition, a lot of brands were happy in terms of the crowd turnout and of course the number of sales that they did as well. They also like the fact that it has a casual feel, unlike most watch fairs that have a more formal setup.

We made that decision within a month of the last fair to do the second one. But of course, in terms of the venue, structure and format, it’s something that took us a while as well to decide what to do.

This May and June, we started to become active in recruiting brands, reaching out to the previous exhibitors and asking them whether they were interested to come back, and of course approaching new brands as well.

I noticed that you have a mainsteam Swiss brand like Oris participating, which is a big difference. What else have you improved? 

So we learned from the Wind Up watch fair in New York and San Francisco that there were a number of bigger brands like Oris who would be interested to participate, and so we reached out to them to ask if they are keen to be part of it.

I happen to be one of their retailers in Singapore so we already have a good relationship. Within a few days we received positive confirmation, which is understandable because the nature of the fair is aligned with their brand approach. They want to engage the local watch community,  and so we are happy to have them here. 

In terms of format, this year we have additional panel discussions. Last year we had two, and this year we will have three. We have incorporated workshops as well which we did not have last year.  

What kind of workshops? 

We have enamelling, basic watchmaking as well as leather crafting workshops, and they are all done on site over the course of the fair.  

So give me some numbers. Last year how many brands did you have and this year how many? 

Last year we had 24 exhibiting brands who have all returned except one, and some new ones as well, making a total of 32 watch brands. We also have three leather straps brands, and one safe storage provider. So in total we have 36 exhibitors this year. 

How was the attendance last year?

Last year we had 700 registrations before the show. So we’re talking about the early birds. And then over the three days of the fair, we counted about 1,002 attendees in total. This year, the number of early bird registrations was almost 800, and we are expecting more. to attend.  

One of the interesting things about this week is that there’s also another fair happening at the same time, which is the Singapore Watch Fair at Sentosa, which caters to a different kind of buying demographic. So how do you see Spring Sprang Sprung in terms of a greater ecosystem of watch fairs in Singapore?

I envision that multiple fairs happening in a week is a great example of how the entire ecosystem of activities can come together and be branded as a new kind of Singapore Watch Week.

I don’t know whether it’s a coincidence that there are so many watch related activities happening this week but if a more concerted effort by all the parties involved can come together, that would be great. We could have activities that would cater to all types of watch enthusiasts, from the high end, to the affordable and everything else in between. 

Perhaps it might be good to have the Singapore Tourism Board involved in something like this. They do support initiatives such as this, right?

Yes, they do. And they have actually encouraged us to apply for a grant for future editions. Of course, there are quite a list of requirements that would have to be met, and the key one is how the fair or fairs can attract visitors from the region and around the world. 

So far, like today, we’ve been open only two hours, but I have already met quite a few foreign visitors already, from Thailand, Indonesia and China. So that’s a good sign. 

Do you think that Spring Sprang Sprung is something that you can do long term? Is it a viable concept? 

Yes, I do believe that as long as the community is interested. We are definitely looking forward to the future, pushing what we do to a bigger scale, with more brands participating, more visitors and also more activities.

Let’s look into the future then.  What’s your vision for Spring Sprang Sprung? 

As I said before, I would like to have Spring Sprang Sprung be part of a bigger ecosystem of watch fairs in Singapore. It would be nice if everyone exhibits in one big venue with multiple halls, where everything is centrally located. It would be good to have individual halls segmented by their genre. Perhaps we can be in one hall, then maybe the higher end independent labels in other, another hall for talks and workshops, and maybe a space for vintage watches and vintage watch dealers.

So something like a Baselworld for Singapore? 

Yes, something like that, but a little bit more. Baselworld was a fair that was more dedicated to the watch trade than for the final consumer. I think what a Singapore version should aim to be is more consumer centric. 

I think it’s important as well to have a regional focus as well, with the fair acting as a hub for watch retailers, media and consumers from around Asia.

Thank you Sugiharto. 

—–

Visit Spring Sprang Sprung at:

XM Studios – 809 French Road, Kitchener Complex, Level 3 XM Store,  Singapore 200809

On from the 20th to the 22nd of October, 11am to 6pm

The first mechanical watch with an altimeter would be unveiled by Oris in 2014, with the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter. The latest iteration of the ProPilot Altimeter sees its case made of carbon fibre that has been specially produced by their partner, 9T Labs (an offshoot of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology).

Measuring in at 47mm, the watch case is unlike conventional carbon fibre, in that it is a composite of carbon fibre and a polymer known as PEKK, which enables the watch case to be manufactured in an additive and sustainable manner, and can also be moulded. This enables the watch case to be as light as plastic, but with the mechanical strength of metals – and Oris is the first watchmaker to use this technology in watch cases. 

The bezel is PVD coated titanium as are the crowns at 2 and 4 o’clock – the former of which controls the time and date setting. The dial features a mix of Arabic numerals and markers, and the hands and markers are painted with SuperLuminova for low-light legibility.

The altimeter itself takes up much of the watch, and has been improved from the original model. Like the original, two versions are available – one that measures in metres, and another that measures in feet. The module has been improved to measure up to 6000m (19700ft) – a 25% improvement from the original’s 4500m (15000ft). 

Operating the altimeter is simple – unscrew the crown at 4 o’clock (when fully screwed in, the watch is complete water resistant to 10 bar), pull out the crown to calibrate the altimeter to a reference reading (usually provided by airport control towers, weather stations, etc.), and push the crown back in without screwing in the crown. In this mode, the watch is protected by a PTFE membrane that ensures protection from ambient moisture and humidity. A red ring around the 4 o’clock crown alerts the wearer that the altimeter is in use, and once you are finished with the altimeter, the crown can be screwed back in for maximum water resistance.

Oris is unique in that the ProPilot Altimeter combines an automatic movement with an altimeter. This was achieved with a second dial underneath the movement, enabling the use of a convenient automatic movement.

Powering the watch is an Oris 793, with automatic winding, 56 hours of power reserve, hacking seconds and date display at 3 o’clock. This is secured with a grey PVD titanium caseback with a feet-metres conversion scale engraved on the back. The watch is delivered on a green textile strap with brown leather lining, on a grey PVD titanium deployant clasp with fine adjustment system. The watch is available in two different variants – one with an altimeter that measures in metres, and another that measures in feet (primarily for the US market).

The Oris ProPilot Altimeter is a watch that celebrates mechanics in all of its forms. Mechanical watches are already a celebration of tradition, and the mechanical altimeter is something that celebrates aviation of the past. Whilst digital instruments exist, why shouldn’t a mechanical altimeter and watch exist? As a celebration of past and present, the Oris ProPilot Altimeter brings modern materials science together with traditional watchmaking and instrument making in one piece, and we think that’s simply awesome.

Technical Specifications

Case: Single piece carbon fibre case, grey PVD plated titanium bezel and case back

Size: 47mm

Dial: Black with altitude scale on dial ring in either feet or metres

Luminous material: Indices, numbers and hands printed with SuperLuminova

Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating on both sides

Case back: Grey PVD plated titanium, screwed, feet to metre conversion chart engravings

Operating devices: Grey PVD plated titanium screw-in security crown at 2 o’clock, grey PVD plated titanium screw-in altimeter crown at 4 o’clock

Strap: Green textile strap with brown leather lining, grey PVD plated titanium folding clasp with fine adjustment system

Water resistance: 10 bar (100m)

Movement: Oris 793

Functions: Hours, minutes and central sweep seconds hands, date with quick setting, stop second device, date window at 3 o’clock

Winding: Automatic

Power reserve: 56 hours

A little context – over the last decade, Oris has made amazing leaps and bounds in movement manufacturing, unveiling 10 calibres over 10 years. Historically, the brand has been making watches for 119 years, and made 280 calibres in that period – so it can be said that Oris is undoubtedly serious about watchmaking. Amidst all of these serious stats, a watch of pure joy for Oris is something they had wanted to achieve which is how the ProPilot X Kermit came about. Formed through a partnership with The Muppets, it was created with the belief that watches today have the sole purpose to make people smile, and according to Ken Laurent, Creative Director of Oris, even though the watch is powered by the very serious Calibre 400, its sole purpose is to bring joy to the wearer.

As previously mentioned, the watch is based off the ProPilot design, measuring in at 39.00mm in diameter, and made out of titanium featuring satin brushed and polished surfaces. The bracelet is also made from titanium, featuring the brand’s patented “LIFT” clasp, echoing a plane’s seatbelt fastening system. Looking at the dial, there is no doubt that the brand has taken inspiration from Kermit the Frog, with its green hue perfectly matching the colour of the world’s favourite puppet amphibian. Markers denote the hours, and they along with the hands are filled with SuperLuminova, giving great night time visibility. The watch is 10 bar water resistant with a screw in crown, meaning that this watch is able to accompany you on your adventures wherever you may go. 

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Oris Calibre 400. Lauded for its performance at its very affordable price point, the Calibre 400 boasts a 5 day power reserve, as well as precision of timekeeping to within -3/+5 seconds per day – well within chronometer specifications.

The date function on the dial side at 6 o’clock displays all of the dates of the month, except for the first – this is reserved for Kermit himself, showing his face on the first of the month to remind the wearer to inject a little bit of fun into their day at the beginning of the month.

Oris is undoubtedly audacious to create the true Kermit the Frog watch, but in some ways, the watch world needs something like this to remind us very serious humans to enjoy ourselves. Like a pair of colourful socks hiding under a pair of tailored trousers, the Oris ProPilot X Kermit does a fantastic job of making serious watchmaking fun – bringing many of us back to our childhood years when joy was our priority, and not concerning ourselves with outside opinion.

Technical Specifications

Case Multi-piece titanium case with satin and sandblasted finishes
Size 39.00 mm (1.535 inches)
Dial Green

Luminous material Indices and hour  and minute hands with Super-LumiNova® 

Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case back Titanium with satin and sandblasted finishes, screwed, see- through sapphire glass
Operating devices Titanium screw-in security crown with protection
Bracelet Titanium with folding clasp
with Oris-patented ‘LIFT’ system
Water resistance 10 bar (100 m) 

Movement

Number Oris Calibre 400
Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second 

Accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances)
Extra features Highly anti-magnetic 

Winding Automatic
Power reserve 120 hours

Warranty* Extended to 10 years with MyOris sign-up. Applies to watch and movement. 10-year recommended service intervals. Five- year recommended water-resistance check

Swiss retail price CHF 4,400 Available April 2023

The thing about watch sizes is that what is considered ‘normal’ is intrinsically linked to prevailing taste and fashion. Which makes it a surprise when putting this watch on, because it is 36.5mm in terms of case diameter – sort of anachronistic for a new release in our modern era.

Yes there is a conscious downsizing in current fashion from the bloated styles of the late 90s and 2000s – but if the average watch buyer were to be really honest, they prefer something around 40-42mm to wear. Oris though, in its very conscious, deliberate reference to this historical model in its archive stuck to its guns when releasing this edition. Taking a closer look reveals why this is such a compelling release that checks the boxes in terms of updating a legacy; as well as reminding (those of us who were around the 90s) how this size of watch wears so comfortably on the wrist; has aesthetic and haptic appeal; and is entirely practical in its function.

The Oris Holstein Edition 2022 Full Steel (250 pieces) embodies a design that harks back to the period which is popularly referred to as ‘neo-vintage’, ie the 90s. The design references one of the brand’s well known historical watches – the Oris Worldtimer of 1998 – with its Oris Calibre 690, a world first in offering a groundbreaking dual time and linked date change/day and night indicator functions. It was a landmark launch not just for Oris but for Swiss watchmaking, which was just emerging out of the Quartz ‘crisis’. The Holstein Edition 2022 is a faithful revival of this pioneering watch, with fresh dial blue colour, leaving the famous red plus and minus symbols intact, using the exact same Calibre of the original.

Due to its palatable 36.5mm sizing, full polished steel construction and 50m water resistant case on a (similarly polished) bracelet that flows seamlessly from the curved case via steeply downturned lugs to hug the wrist snugly and comfortably, it is comfortable to wear.

It offers dual time functionality in an interesting way. This is enabled by the Oris Caliber 690, an adapted ETA 2836-2 automatic ticking at 4Hz, with 38 hours of power reserve. Showing up on the dial side is the main time display which tracks local time and a sub dial at the three pm position which tracks home time. A small seconds display features at nine with a date display at six o’clock. The two time zone dials synch up at starting location (presumably home time).

Once another location is reached, setting the local time is done without removing the watch: two pushers at eight and four o’clock allow the main hour hand to be set forwards or backwards according to local time. The date function is linked to this hand so this is one less element to deal with when crossing timezones at midnight. Another almost imperceptible feature is the day and night indicator tucked away at the nine o’clock position on the home time sub-dial so you are always informed of whether it is day or night at home.

The case is 36.5mm wide across; 12mm thick; 43mm lug to lug and the whole watch with attached bracelet weighs 143 grams. There is noticeable heft in the fully polished stainless steel case which seems to have surprising curves in all the right places.

The dial itself is surprisingly complex – with layers of graining and contrasting iridescent sub-dials set in just the right shade of dark blue. The full lumed Arabic numerals have just the right amount of ‘pop’ when illumination is low and there are contrasting red triangles with marked “+” and “-“ on the corners of the dial, to indicate which corresponding pushers for the main hour hands move them forwards and backwards. The seconds hand on the left sub-dial is also in a contrasting red, for legibility.

This is a watch that should appeal to those who appreciate the unconventional, laced with historical legacy, with a warm and unique character that also offers strong functionality.

Oris, founded in 1904 and based in the town of Holstein has its own train related story with the Waldenburgerbahn or Waldenburger railway, a short 13 km railway network that links the towns of Liestal in the north and Waldenburg in the south and passing the Oris factory in the middle.

The railway serviced commuters in the region, fuelling Oris’ growth and enriching the region. Over the past 140 years, the Waldenburgerbahn has progressed from steam locomotives, to the current low carbon high tech tramway that will open in December 2022. This ‘green’ initiative ties in with Oris Emissions Reduction Programme formalised in the company’s first Sustainability Report. In practical terms, it allows Oris’ employees and other commuters a low carbon means of travelling between places of work, leisure and home.

The Oris Waldenburgerbahn Limited Edition, a 1,000 piece edition commemorates this occasion – featuring Oris’ signature Big Crown Pointer Date and special case back engraving of the old Waldenburgerbahn locomotive.

This 1,000 piece edition comes in a 40 mm multi-piece steel case with anti-reflective sapphire glass on dial side and case back. A screw in crown enables 5 bar water resistance and the 20mm lug width offers quick change strap option variety, although it comes with a dark brown Cervo Volante deer leather strap.

It is powered by the Oris 754 Automatic beating at 4 Hz with power reserve of 38 hours. A 26 jewel, 25.6mm, 11.5 ligne sized movement features hacking seconds, hours, minutes, seconds and instantaneous date change functionality. The black dial comes with printed Arabic numerals and markers, with hands with Super Luminova for ultimate readability.

Technical Specifications

Case Multi-piece stainless steel case
Size 40.00 mm (1.575 inches)
Dial Black
Luminous material Indices, numbers and hands with Super-LumiNova®

Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside

Case back Stainless steel, screwed, special engravings

Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown
Strap Dark brown Cervo Volante deer leather with quick strap change system

Water resistance 5 bar

Movement

Number Oris 754
Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date centre hand, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second
Winding Automatic
Power reserve 38 hours

Limited edition 1,000 numbered pieces, with leather travel pouch and card holder, and special Hölstein map cleaning cloth

Swiss retail price CHF 2,100 Available November 2022

Coulson Aviation operates a fleet of aircraft to fight fires, and is the only aerial firefighting company that operates both fixed-wing and type-1 helicopters. Amongst their fleet are custom-designed Hercules C-130s, Sikorsky S-61 Helicopters, Boeing Chinook CH-47 helitankers and custom-converted Boeing 737 FireLiner aircraft.

To give a sense of the extreme nature of their work, on some missions, the pilots of Coulson Aviation fly a Boeing 737 (normally a commercial airliner) 60 metres above the ground to fight these fires – an extremely low altitude for such a large aircraft. The company splits its time between the Northern and Southern Hemisphere, following the summers of each region, ready and willing to fight fires at a moment’s notice.

The Oris Coulson Limited Edition measures in at 41mm, made from a 3D printed carbon fibre and polymer (called PEKK) mix, weaving these together during the printing process. This process, developed by the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology, represents a higher precision than normal carbon fibre case production, as the exact pattern of the case can be determined – as opposed to traditional carbon fibre cases which have a random pattern due to layering/forging processes. All of this precision and material science for the case leads to a watch that weighs 65 grams, which also includes the weight of the movement. 

The dial is perhaps the most striking part of the watch, with its gradient red and orange dial representing the fires that Coulson Aviation fights during the summer. Like many of its ProPilot brethren, the hours are denoted by Arabic numerals, and made incredibly legible with hour and minute markers in white. Filled with SuperLuminova for night-time legibility, the hands too are filled with this material for legibility. A date function can be found at 6 o’clock which is cleanly integrated into the design of the dial, adding a sense of everyday utility to this watch. Framing the dial is a grey-PVD titanium bezel. Securing the watch and its water resistance is a screw-down crown, also in grey-PVD titanium to match the bezel.

Turning the watch over, the Oris Calibre 400 is visible through a grey-PVD titanium caseback with sapphire crystal. The Calibre 400 is remarkable for its 5-day power reserve, chronometer-like accuracy with tolerances between -3/+5 seconds per day and is highly anti-magnetic to protect against modern threats to mechanical watchmaking like laptops, iPads, purse clasps and the like. The watch is delivered on a black textile strap with a grey-PVD plated folding clasp.

The Oris Coulson Limited Edition sheds light on another organisation that helps social and environmental causes. Working ever so diligently in the background, Coulson Aviation continue to serve and protect people, property and wildlife, and this watch is great recognition of the work they do, and are committed to continue. Limited to 1000 pieces, this is sure to please the aviation enthusiast, as well as those who are environmentally conscious.

Tech Specs

Watch

Case Multi-piece carbon fibre case with grey-PVD-plated titanium fixed bezel

Size 41.00 mm (1.614 inches)

Dial Orange

Luminous material Applied numerals and printed indices with Super-LumiNova®, hands filled with Super-LumiNova®

Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside

Case back Titanium, screwed, see-through sapphire glass, special engravings 

Operating devices Grey-PVD-plated titanium screw-in security crown

Strap Black textile strap with grey-PVD- plated folding clasp

Water resistance 10 bar (100 metres)

Movement

Number Oris Calibre 400

Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second Accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances)

Extra features Highly anti-magnetic 

Winding Automatic

Power reserve 120 hours

Warranty Extended to 10 years with MyOris sign-up. Applies to watch and movement. 10-year recommended service intervals. Five- year recommended water-resistance check

Swiss retail price CHF 4,200 

Available November 2022 

Originally conceived in 1965, the Divers Sixty Five 12H Cal. 400 is a watch that carries the essence of the original dive watch from Oris, whilst containing the conveniences of modern watchmaking, as well as a few design tweaks from the original Divers Sixty Five that gives it extra functionality. 

Sporting a 40mm stainless steel case, the watch features a design with no crown guards, in line with its vintage aesthetic, and enables it to fit many wrists with its symmetrical design. The bezel has an anodized aluminium insert, and, unlike many dive watches, it is able to be rotated bidirectionally. This leads to its second peculiarity – the bezel insert itself. On a normal diver’s watch, it would usually be a graduated diver’s scale in minutes, however on the Divers Sixty Five 12H Cal. 400, it is a 12 hour bezel, enabling it to be rotated to accommodate a second timezone.

The dial is highly legible during the day and the night – a black dial with applied indices filled with white SuperLuminova gives great contrast for easy reading. Conveniently, a date is included in this watch, situated at 6 o’clock. All of this, inside a 100m water resistant case gives the watch everything it will need to survive most everyday situations, including a small dip in the pool. The watch is available on a leather strap with stainless steel buckle, or a stainless steel bracelet that is styled to look like a vintage riveted bracelet – complete with folding clasp.

Housed within its case is the Oris in-house Calibre 400, manufactured for reliability and everyday utility. A 5 day power reserve enables the wearer to set the watch down for a reasonable period, and pick it up again without having to worry about the watch running out of power. It also fulfils the international standards for anti-magnetic protection through the use of specialised components – more than 30 components are made from anti-magnetic materials, thus protecting the movement from everyday magnetic fields put out by objects like laptops, tablets and even purse clasps. Signifying ultimate confidence in the reliability of their movement, the watch comes complete with a 10 year warranty, one of the longest warranty periods in the industry.

The Oris Divers Sixty Five 12H Cal 400 stands out as a watch that is reasonably priced, offers the best of vintage aesthetics and modern watchmaking sensibilities. With an industry leading warranty, a movement designed with the wearer in mind, and everyday good looks, it is no wonder the Divers Sixty Five collection continues to be a fan favourite, and this new release will be one that budding watch enthusiasts can enjoy for decades to come.

Technical Specifications

Divers Sixty-Five 12H Calibre 400 

Ref. Nos. 01 400 7772 4054-07 5 20 82 / 01 400 7772 4054-07 8 20 18

Case

Material Multi-piece stainless steel case, bi-directional rotating bezel with aluminum insert and 12-hour second time zone scale

Size 40.00 mm, 1.575 inches

Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti- reflective coating inside

Case back Stainless steel, screwed, see-through sapphire glass

Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown

Water resistance 10 bar (100 m)

Interhorn width 20 mm

Movement

Number Oris Calibre 400

Dimensions 30.00 mm, 13 1⁄4’’’

Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine-timing device and stop-second

Winding Automatic

Power reserve 120 hours

Vibrations 4 hz (28’800 A/h)

Jewels 24

Dial

Design Black

Luminous material Indices and hands with Super- LumiNova®

Indices Applied

Bracelet Black leather strap with stainless steel buckle, or multi-piece stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp

Availability August 2022

Retail price Leather strap CHF 3’100, Metal bracelet CHF 3’300

Much like services like the Royal Flying Doctor Service of Australia, Wings of Hope is an organisation based in the US that provides medical support in vulnerable and remote communities through the power of flight. Having supported patients in over 50 countries, the organisation has been nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize twice since its inception in 1963. Generous donors ensure an operating budget of $3.2 million per year, and include luminaries such as Elizabeth Dole, Harrison Ford and Kurt Russell as members on its honorary board. The Wings of Hope watch that Oris has created will shed more light on an organisation that has largely remained unknown, and aims to support the organisation to build more relationships in more countries to further the work they do in supporting communities with medical aid.

The Oris Wings of Hope Limited Edition is based on the iconic Big Crown series that has its roots in 1938 for pilots – its distinctive crown designed for use with gloves on. 

First to be released to celebrate the organisation is the 18k yellow gold version that is limited to 100 pieces worldwide. Its 38mm case makes it a universally wearable watch, and its off-white dial is accentuated by the yellow metal case. Further bringing out its warmth is the custard-coloured SuperLuminova for the Arabic numerals, a shade that is befitting of a watch that has its origins in the late 30s. Completing its vintage aesthetic is the sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, that has its track pad-printed in blue, and a red seconds hand. The watch is delivered on a sustainable deer leather strap with quick change spring bars, on a gold pin buckle. The watch is available now, however its limited quantity will make it scarce and hard to find for those hunting a quality watch that does good for the world.

The second piece in this collaboration is a model in a stainless steel case, measuring in at 40mm, and limited to 1000 pieces worldwide. It sports a similar off-white coloured dial as its precious metal sibling, however the white-metal case gives it a more silver tone to its colour. The Arabic numerals are in a light green SuperLuminova that add to its vintage appeal – looking like a watch that was produced in the mid-20th Century, as if it was made during the inception of Wings of Hope. Further bringing colour to the dial is the sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock with a seconds track in blue, and a red seconds hand. The steel version is also delivered on sustainable deer leather straps, and is equipped with quick-change spring bars and a stainless steel fastening system. This watch will be released in October 2022, making it a more accessible way to do good through watchmaking.

Powering both watches, and visible through a sapphire glass caseback is the Calibre 401 – a movement that we have covered before on ISOCHRONO, and one that we are absolute fans of. With a power reserve of 5 days, anti-magnetic protection, and automatically wound, the watch also boasts a 10 year warranty – an industry leading warranty period that signifies the confidence that Oris has in its latest in-house manufacture calibre. Interestingly, Oris has stipulated a 10 year service interval for this movement, which gives extra peace of mind for the wearer, that they own something that is virtually bulletproof in the world of watch movements.

Oris’ mission of Change for the Better is really hitting its strides – especially in the last few years. It is one thing to pledge funds through the sale of a particular watch, but it is another to make it a viable part of your brand identity. The Wings of Hope watches are another significant addition to this mission, not only shedding light on an organisation that was relatively unknown, but provides significant human impact with its purpose. It is a great endeavour to undertake unearthing these organisations, however, we believe that Oris is firmly on the right track to do good through watchmaking, and bring positive change to the world.

Tech Specs

Movement

Number Oris Calibre 401

Functions Centre hands for hours and minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, fine timing device and stop-second 

Accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances)

Extra features Highly anti-magnetic 

Winding Automatic

Power reserve 120 hours

Warranty Extended to 10 years with MyOris sign-up. Applies to watch and movement. 10-year recommended service intervals

Wings of Hope – Stainless Steel Limited Edition

Case Multi-piece stainless steel case, stainless steel bezel

Size 40.00 mm (1.575 inches)

Dial Off-white

Luminous material Hands and indices with Super-LumiNova®

Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside

Case back Stainless steel, screwed, see- through sapphire glass

Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown

Strap Brown Cervo Volante deer leather with quick strap change system

Water resistance 5 bar 

Limited edition 1,000 numbered pieces, special presentation box 

Wings of Hope – 18k Yellow Gold Limited Edition

Case Multi-piece 18-carat yellow gold case, 18-carat yellow gold bezel

Size 38.00 mm (1.496 inches)

Dial Off-white

Luminous material Hands and indices with Super-LumiNova®

Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside

Case back 18-carat yellow gold, screwed, see-through sapphire glass

Operating devices 18-carat yellow gold screw-in security crown

Strap Brown Cervo Volante deer leather with quick strap change system and 18-carat yellow gold clasp

Water resistance 5 bar

Limited edition 100 numbered pieces, special cherry wood presentation box

The Billion Oyster Project is, like its name suggests, an initiative aimed at introducing one billion oysters into the New York Harbour by 2035. Historically, the harbour was home to 220,000 acres of oyster reefs. As quickly as New York became the urbanised metropolis over the last 200 years, shipping and dumping of industrial waste destroyed much of these oyster reefs that were crucial to the local ecosystem – oysters provided food for marine life, filtered water, and their reefs protected the shores from erosion by the waves and storms.

In the last 50 years, there has been marked improvement since the introduction of the Clean Water Act by the New York State Government, but there is still work to be done to clean up the damage done by generations past. Created in 2014, the Billion Oyster project aims to restore these crucial oyster reefs, and according to co-founder, Pete Malinowski, the project is on track to settling it’s 100 millionth oyster in 2022. In solidarity with the Billion Oyster Project, Oris created the New York Harbor Limited Edition to help back and fund the work that needs to be done in cultivating, installing and maintaining the restoration sites across the harbour.

The New York Harbor Limited Edition is based on the famous Aquis diver’s watch, in keeping with the aquatic theme of the Billion Oyster Project. Its all-steel construction extends to its 41.5mm case and its unidirectional bezel, giving it a very monochromatic appearance. Setting it apart from many of its other Oris Aquis brethren is its dial which is crafted from green mother of pearl, giving it a verdant iridescent sheen. The dial design is typical of the Aquis diver’s watches, featuring hands and hour markers filled with Super-Luminova, as well as the date at 6 o’clock. Naturally, the watch features a screw-in crown that helps to guarantee its 300m water resistance rating.

Turning the watch over, we find a solid caseback, with a relief engraving of three oysters representing the Billion Oyster Project, and its goal of repopulating the New York Harbour. The watch is delivered with a green rubber strap to match the dial, a stainless steel bracelet and a strap changing tool. Powering the New York Harbor Limited Edition is an Oris 733 movement – a movement based on the tried and true Sellita SW200 featuring automatic winding and a power reserve of 38 hours.

Limited to 2000 pieces worldwide, Oris continues its mission of Change for the Better through this new model. Through this model is it clear that Oris is on a pursuit to change the world through its watchmaking, by highlighting crucial local environmental issues and bringing them to new audiences that can do good through their conscious purchase of a fine watch that supports a cause.

Though the climate crisis is far from over, we know that our favourite brands, including Oris, have the environment in mind when creating its latest collaboration piece, creating a fine divers watch that truly gives back to its customers.

Tech Specs

Case: Multi-piece stainless steel case, uni- directional rotating bezel, stainless steel bezel with minutes scale in relief

Size: 41.5mm

Dial: Green, mother-of-pearl

Luminous material: Hands and indices with Super-LumiNova®

Top glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside

Case back: Stainless steel, screwed, special engravings

Operating devices: Stainless steel screw-in security crown

Strap: Green rubber strap, supplied with additional multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with folding clasp with extension, and strap changing tool

Water resistance: 30 bar (300 m) 

Movement: Oris 733

Functions: Hours, minutes and central sweep seconds hands, date with quick setting, stop second device, date window at 6 o’clock Winding: Automatic

Power reserve: 38 hours

Limited edition: 2,000 numbered pieces, special presentation box

Swiss retail price: CHF 2,400 

Available June 2022 

The Oris Sun Wukong Artist Edition is a watch that was released in the early part of January 2022 but that I missed out on seeing in person due to the extremely limited number of pieces that have been made. 

However, given that Oris was part of Watches and Wonders in Geneva this year, I was able to get a hands on look at this very interesting and rare example of the brand doing something a little special. 

Following on to the Sun Wukong watch that Oris released last year, that was very interesting in its implementation, this new Artist Edition version steps things up to the high end, by utilizing a rare decorative technique in watchmaking – cloisonné enamel.   

This new watch marks the second time that Oris have explored the same subject matter, the famous story of the Monkey King, in a watch. What’s nice as well is like the first version, the Monkey King doesn’t appear, like most character watches, as an image slapped on the dial. Instead, Oris has gone for a more interpretive presentation on the dial, with an image of the underwater palace of the Dragon King – a scene from the movie – where Sun Wukong acquires his magical staff. 

Round the case back of the watch, there is an engraving of that very scene. The rod that the Monkey King is holding on to is his magical staff or “金箍棒” (Jingu Bang) or “Golden-Hooped Rod”, that was initially a useless iron pillar that was gifted to him by the Dragon King. As the rod is able to comply with Sun Wukong’s wishes, it is able to shrink down to a staff when used as a weapon, and then also further, to the size of a needle and when not in use and stored in his ear. 

Incidentally, this magical staff was represented by the main seconds hand on the first Sun Wukong watch by Oris, and it’s nice that this new facet of the story is being represented by this second watch.  

Because the scene takes place underwater, it does mean that the choice of the watch being an Aquis does make sense. Furthermore, given its exclusive nature, a normal Selitta powering the watch just would not do. Instead it carries the relatively new calibre 400 automatic movement, with 10-year warranty, five-day power reserve (120 hours) and anti-magnetic resistance. 

Being an Aquis with a 41.5mm case and 300 metres of water resistance, it is going to be extremely capable underwater of course. However, given that there is no luminous pip on the bezel and no lumed hour markers on the dial, I’m guessing that it is probably not fully ISO6425 compliant, although this fact probably wouldn’t matter to those buying this watch. 

The design that greets one on the dial is made of cloisonné enamel as mentioned earlier, a traditional decorative art in watchmaking that is created by gold wires in the shape of the intended composition on the dial, after which the zones created are filled in by enamel paint and then fired in a kiln to fix the colours. “Cloisonné”, literally means “partitioned” in French, and it can only be done by hand by the most experienced of artists. 

The dial itself is also interesting, because it is devoid of Oris branding which makes it all the better for the design to take centrestage. Because of this, it is very discreet in terms of the recognizability factor. If you know what an Aquis case looks like you might give pause, but overall, there is no way to tell who made the watch. Also, if you are unfamiliar with what is being depicted on the dial, it can look like an abstract painting, which is good, since like the first watch, it can appeal to both those who are aware of the Monkey King story and those who are not, purely on an aesthetic basis. 

Of course, being a limited edition of 72 pieces only and having a cloisonné enamel dial, this is a watch that will necessarily be priced at a way higher level than you would expect of a typical Oris. At US$27,500, it’s only going to be considered by those with deep enough pockets first of all, and thereafter by various vectors of interest that come from this watch being so multifaceted in its appeal. 

I remember how I was quite surprised two years ago when Oris launched an 18K gold Aquis and wondered if the brand had lost the plot. I have a different opinion now on this occasion with their second high priced offering. I have seen that Oris has started to mature somewhat as a brand, to the point of knowing how to keep their core customer happy, yet looking to try different things now and then to surprise and that can only be a good thing. 

Find out more at the Oris website:  https://www.oris.ch/5E/watch/sun-wukong-artist-edition/01-400-7769-4185-set