Housed within the iconic Luminor-style case with a rotating bezel, the watch is crafted from the brand’s proprietary carbon material, Carbotech. Formed out of sheets of carbon fibre, they are then compressed at controlled temperatures and pressures with a polymer to form a composite material that is extremely resistant to mechanical stress, whilst also giving each watch made from this material a character that is unique to each watch. A DLC coated titanium bezel completes the watch, giving it an action-oriented design through its diver’s inspired design and function. In addition to hours and minutes, the watch also has a running seconds at 9 o’clock, day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, and a GMT hand in red, enabling the viewing of a second time zone. The hour markers are done in the brand’s signature minimalist bar-and-dot style, which further adds to the modern look of the watch. The industrial design is further highlighted through the grid structure just beneath the hour markers that partially masks the running trains of the watch. 

Turning the watch over, we see the P.2015/T movement – a truly high horology movement with a patented tourbillon mechanism that rotates perpendicular to the axis of the balance wheel, quietly tucked away at the 10/11 o’clock position of the watch. Theoretically, this orientation of the tourbillon mechanism is to better average out the positional rate of the watch while it is on the wrist – an improvement on the original idea of the tourbillon which was developed for pocket watches. The rear-side of the movement also includes a power reserve indicator, showing a maximum run time of 4 days. The movement side also further highlights the industrial nature of the watch, with its girder-like bridges and plates spanning the movement.

As previously mentioned, the DNA of Panerai is inextricably linked to the sea, and in this case, the watch is made in tribute to the daring sailors of the Luna Rossa team. The Carbotech of the watch is also used in the boat of team Luna Rossa, linking the two through their ultra-light frames. With the watch being limited to 20 pieces, the lucky owners will get to experience a money-can’t-buy look at the team while they compete at the finals of the America’s Cup in Barcelona, with front row access to the competition, and exclusive behind-the-scenes peeks at how this team competes under pressure.

Panerai further demonstrates its linkage to the oceans through this partnership with Luna Rossa, and even gives the owners an exclusive experience to further link the brand with the owners of the watch. Buying a watch in of itself should be an experience, however, it is certain that the experiences tied to this Submersible Tourbillon GMT will leave an indelible mark on their owners, forever tying them to Panerai and their continuing story of seafaring adventurers.

Technical Specifications

Movement: Hand-wound mechanical, P.2015/T calibre, 15 1/3 lignes, 7.88mm thick, 27 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 vibrations/hour, Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 4 days, two barrels. 256 components.

Functions: Small seconds , World time , Tourbillon , Hours , Power reserve , Second time zone , Minutes

Case: Diameter 45mm, Carbotech

Bezel: Titanium DLC anti-clockwise rotating bezel with graduated scale and numerals 

Back: Screwed, see-through sapphire crystal and titanium DLC

Water Resistance: 30.0 bar (~300.0 metres)

Strap: Bi-material grey Luna Rossa, STD, 24/22, BA

Tool watches were created for maximum utility in the most adverse of conditions, specifically to be legible in low light and murky conditions. In the past, illumination on the dial meant a radioactive material such as radium or tritium was used to excite phosphorescent paint to give off light in the darkness, effectively making these self-powered. However, these substances are inherently toxic and in the late 80s to mid 90s saw the watch industry move to a material known as SuperLuminova to illuminate watch dials. This however, comes with a tradeoff, in that the watch has to be charged by an external light source (the sun, or a bright torch for example) before it begins to self-illuminate. So what if a watch could self-illuminate without the need for external light sources or toxic materials? The new Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID is the watch that answers that conundrum, all through the use of mechanical watchmaking principles.

The Elux name is not a foreign name to Panerai – in the mid 1960s, Panerai supplied Elux panels to the Italian Navy, which were lighting panels in a manner of different shapes, sizes and materials that were powered electrically. Made to be durable, shock and vibration resistant, as well as energy efficient, they were primarily used in command centres, internal signalling boards and helipads on Italian naval ships. 

LAB-ID pieces from Panerai have also been some of the most bonkers (for lack of a better word) pieces in the watch world, being an incubator that pushes the boundaries of the watch industry. Some of the most notable pieces include a Luminor model that featured a 50 year warranty thanks to its lubrication free construction, as well as the eLAB-ID PAM1225 which was constructed out of 99% recycled materials, and was very open in naming its partners to achieve its goals.

The new Panerai Submersible LAB-ID Elux is the product of eight years of research and development that starts off with a 49mm diameter, 500m Submersible case made out of Ti-Ceramitech, a ceramized titanium case which features a ceramic coating layer on top of titanium. It’s blue hue is achieved through Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation, which also provides the case with its distinctive toughness in comparison to traditional ceramic, as well as being 44% lighter than stainless steel. Its black dial features the signature Panerai bar-and-dot dial for legibility, and is accompanied by a unidirectional rotating bezel to calculate immersion time. 

The most curious part of the watch is of course its functionality, which is where the watch is ingeniously engineered. On the left hand side of the watch is the Elux pusher, with a pusher-guard – lift the pusher-guard and press the button to activate the lighting system, which illuminates not only the hour markers, but the hands and the bezel pip as well. This proved to be a challenge for the Panerai team, and the method of illuminating the hands is patent protected, and illuminating the bezel pip has a patent pending, demonstrating the difficulty in electronically illuminating moving elements, whilst maintaining water resistance.

This illumination is achieved through the movement containing 6 barrels within its construction – 4 dedicated to powering the lighting system, and 2 barrels for traditional watch mechanics. These 4 barrels then power a micro-generator with coils, magnets and a stator through a high-speed rotor (rotating at 80 revolutions per second that develops the change in magnetic field to generate the electric current for the lighting system. This guarantees lighting for up to 30 minutes, which is also indicated by the linear power reserve aperture on the dial (labelled “Power Light). The remaining 2 barrels power the P.9010/EL movement, providing power for 3 days. The watch is further accented by SuperLuminova X2 on the indices and hands to further highlight luminescent vibrancy.

The Panerai Submersible LAB-ID Elux is limited to 150 pieces, with an availability of 50 pieces over 3 years. It is a watch that, in a time of change in the watch world, is a piece that still demonstrates the ingenuity and sheer madness of the laboratories within the industry. Only the most curious would consider a piece like this, however, it is this curiosity that drives Panerai to push the boundaries of what is possible in the world of mechanical watchmaking.

Technical Specifications: Panerai PAM01800

Movement: Automatic mechanical, P.9010/EL caliber,
13 3/4 lignes, 10.80mm thick, 55 jewels, Glucydur® balance- wheel stop, 28,800 vibrations/hour, Incabloc® anti-shock device, 6 barrels: 4 dedicated to lighting, 2 dedicated to time indication, 363 components.

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Power Light function, Linear Power light reserve indicator, calculation of immersion time, stop-seconds for precise time setting.

Power Reserve: 3 days for time indication. 30 minutes for on demand Power Light Function.

Case: Diameter 49mm, Blue Ti-CeramitechTM case.
Blue Ti-CeramitechTM bezel. Screw Ti-CeramitechTM case-back. Sapphire crystal. Patented pusher protection system.

Strap: Blue rubber bracelet, STD, 26/22 Trapezoidal Titanium pin buckle.

Water resistance: 50 bar (~500 meters).

It’s easy to see why. On the surface it’s difficult to reconcile the disparate worlds that these two entities occupy, given how different they both are. Yet the curious thing is that after spending a brief amount of time thinking about it, it somehow seems to make sense. 

Luxury watchmakers have been trying over the past few years to find a way to appeal to the younger generation. With mechanical watches having lost their functional necessity a long time ago, there is no question that they are anachronistic devices that rely on other factors for their appeal. With this in mind, it becomes obvious why this new Panerai makes a whole lot of sense. We’re not using these watches for war anymore, and in this day and age, a luxury timepiece is a marker for an individual’s sense of style and taste. 

It’s an out of left field collaboration for sure, and I would definitely be interested to get some words from Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué on his thought process in the consideration and approval of this collaboration. It definitely would have been cool to sit in on the meeting about this. 

The watch itself is a typical Luminor Panerai, done with a DLC coated black eSteel (recycled steel in Panerai parlance) case at 44 mm in diameter and 100 meters water resistant. To reference Razer, the collaboration partner, there are a few ways that this watch distinguishes itself. The most obvious parts are the electric fluorescent green small seconds hand at 9 o’clock, and the green stitching on the black quick release PET strap. Then there is the Razer logo which is on the closed case back, which means we have to do without a view of the P900 automatic movement that this watch runs. 

Lastly, there is also the Razer logo on the dial above the 6 o’clock position, which is so subtle that it is hardly visible in most lighting conditions. In fact, when photographing it, I had to use a direct and hard flash beam to get it to appear in these photos.  

Now, it is said that this collaboration was created in support of measures to heal the ocean and to preserve the environment. Ok fine. So it might be. 

Although let’s be honest, no one who is buying this watch will do so while thinking of the ocean. Just on how cool the watch will be on the wrist while playing their favourite game. This was what I was thinking of when contemplating how cool it would be to wear this watch in the semi-darkness of a typical gaming environment. Though in order for me to get into the mood of buying this watch, I will probably have to upgrade my Gigabyte Aero 15 gaming laptop to a new Razer one.  

PAM01353

Movement: Automatic mechanical, P.900 calibre, 12 1⁄2 lignes, 4.2 mm thick, 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour. IncablocTM anti-shock device. One barrel. 171 components

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date Power Reserve: Three days

Case: 40mm brushed eSteelTM with DLC coating, brushed eSteelTM bezel with DLC coating, eSteelTM caseback with DLC coating. Safety Lock crown protection device in brushed eSteelTM with DLC coating. Sapphire crystal formed of corondum

Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock

Strap: Recycled black PET strap, green stitching, 22/20 BA, buckle in Steel DLC with QR system

Water-Resistance: 10 bar (~100 meters) 

Availability: Limited to 500 pieces and available at Panerai boutiques only or online at panerai.com

Peer into the list of exclusive movements that Panerai house within their watches, and you will find a few interesting complications, including the likes of: an Equation of Time indicated by a horizontal slider, a minute repeater with carillon and decimal chimes, and a monopusher chronograph with GMT and 8 days power reserve. It was only fitting, that Panerai’s version of the Perpetual Calendar (Perpetuo Calendario in Italian for extra flourish), would be smart in its functionality, but also clean in how it delivers this information.

The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar has a dial that appears incredibly simplistic. Boasting a 44mm size case, its large numerals at 12 and 6 and markers are done in its signature “sandwich” dial design that give the dial its depth. This is further accentuated by the sunburst finishing emanating from the centre of the dial. At 3 o’clock, we see a day and date indication, and at 9 o’clock, we see the subsidiary seconds dial, with an incorporated 24 hour hand that indicates AM or PM – useful for the arrow-shaped GMT/Home Time hand that can be tucked underneath the local hour hand. There are two guises of the Luminor Perpetual Calendar, one with a sunburst blue dial and Panerai’s proprietary Goldtech case (a form of red gold with some platinum in its alloy that does not tarnish with time). The other version is a sunburst green dial, gold hands and a Platinumtech case – Panerai has said in the past that it is harder than normal platinum, able to withstand more wear and tear than normal 950 platinum cases. Whilst seemingly simplistic on the outside, the words “Calendario Perpetuo” at 6 o’clock giveaway more of what its movement can do.

The P.4100 calibre housed within case displays many of the perpetual calendar indications on the movement side that are traditionally seen on the dial side. Visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, this has the advantage of cleaning up the dial, keeping it legible for everyday timekeeping, whilst the rear of the watch houses perpetual calendar indications that are used occasionally. Indications such as the Leap Year and Month are shown in an integrated disc close to the crown, whilst the four-digit Year indication and Power Reserve Indicator are shown closest to the micro-rotor. Two barrels give the watch a 3 day power reserve – with all of these displays and functionality, the movement remains 7mm thin thanks to this micro-rotor architecture. In addition, the watch, GMT function and its calendar are all adjustable through the crown, needing no tools for adjustment. Furthermore, it is secured against damage, enabling changes at any time, even at month-end periods and for times approaching midnight – bringing a sense of user-friendliness that other perpetual calendars don’t offer. The movement also features a seconds-reset system that makes the seconds hand fly back to zero when the crown is fully pulled out for precise time-setting to a reference clock.

The Goldtech model is limited worldwide to 270 pieces worldwide, and the Platinumtech model is limited to 100 pieces, exclusively at Panerai boutiques. 

Panerai’s inaugural Perpetual Calendar is undoubtedly a smart, clean model that continues the modern brand’s penchant for pursuing haute horlogerie, and brings a clever take to a complication that sometimes may require a loupe to read. The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar represents smart design in watchmaking, a trait that we hope continues at the Laboratorio de Idee.

Tech Specs

PAM00742 – Luminor Perpetual Calendar Goldtech

Movement: Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.4100 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 151⁄2 lignes, 7mm thick, 55 jewels, Glucydur balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. KIFTM anti-shock device. Two barrels, seconds reset, Stop Balance wheel

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, year, leap year, GMT 24H display, power reserve indicator, perpetual calendar, seconds reset

Power Reserve: Three days

Case: 44mm brushed Panerai GoldtechTM case, polished Panerai GoldtechTM bezel. Safety Lock crown protection device in brushed Panerai GoldtechTM. See-through sapphire crystal caseback. Sapphire crystal formed of corundum

Dial: Blue sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Day of the week, date at 3 o’clock, seconds and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock

Strap: Alligator Patina Dark Blue, Ecru stitching, 24/22, BA, STD. Trapezoidal brushed GoldtechTM

Water Resistance: 5 bar (~50 meters) 

PAM00715 – Luminor Perpetual Calendar Platinumtech

Movement: Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.4100 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 151⁄2 lignes, 7mm thick, 55 jewels, Glucydur balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. KIFTM anti-shock device. Two barrels, seconds reset Stop Balance wheel

Functions:  Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, month, year, leap year, GMT 24H display, power reserve indicator, perpetual calendar, seconds reset

Power Reserve: Three days

Case: 44mm polished Panerai PlatinumtechTM case, polished Panerai PlatinumtechTM bezel. Safety Lock crown protection device in brushed Panerai PlatinumtechTM. See- through sapphire crystal caseback. Sapphire crystal formed of corondum

Dial: Green sun-brushed with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Day of the week, date at 3 o’clock, seconds and 24h indicator at 9 o’clock

Strap: Alligator Patina Dark Brown, Ecru stitching, 24/22, BA, STD. Trapezoidal brushed white gold

Water Resistance: 5 bar (~50 meters) 

We are all yearning for adventure after a year of being cooped up working indoors – some of us have taken to this in different ways, from living vicariously through our favourite YouTube stars or Netflix dramas (the author has recently taken to the Korean drama Hospital Playlist), to escaping through video games (personal favourites being the fantasy world of Midgar in Final Fantasy VII Remake and dropping into Soviet-styled Verdansk through Call of Duty Warzone). Anything that captures or represents a sense wanderlust is a welcome reprieve from the lockdowns and isolation we have lived through, and Panerai might just have the answer to your thirst for travel and adventure with the new Panerai Submersible Chrono Flyback – J.Chin Edition and the J.Chin Xperience Edition.

Jimmy Chin’s exploits seem like that of someone who has lived many lives – he has been a part of numerous expeditions to Everest, as an adventurer himself, or as a key member of a crew documenting the quest. Chin and some of his expedition partners are the only people to have skied down the South East Ridge Route of Mt Everest, also making him the only American to have performed a ski descent of Mt Everest. Outside his Himalayan odysseys, he has climbed and skied in places like Pitcairn Islands, Antarctica, Borneo, Mali and Baffin Island, just to name a few. It is only fitting then, that someone like this has a proper adventurer’s watch as a tribute to someone who has seen so much of this planet. Most notably, one of his recent documentaries was Free Solo, documenting Alex Honnold’s free-climb ascent of the 3000ft El Capitan in the Yosemites – a risky endeavour where one slip could mean certain death.

Speaking to this collaboration, Jimmy Chin said “So much of my work has to do with storytelling that will broaden the understanding of the world around us. I was attracted to collaborating with Panerai because of the brand’s unique story and long heritage of creating tools that enable exploration and I’m honored that Panerai created two watches that take inspiration from my journey”.

The two versions of the new release from Panerai in tribute to Jimmy Chin are: PAM01207 in brushed titanium, limited to 100 pieces, and PAM01208 – the Xperience edition in DLC titanium, limited to only 14 pieces but comes with a special surprise for those lucky owners.

Both watches are done in the style of the Submersible collection, sized at 47mm with its distinctive crown guard giving additional presence on the wrist. To the left are the chronograph pushers that give it its distinctive look and feel. The dials of the watches look utilitarian, with the PAM01207 given a matte grey dial, whilst the Xperience edition PAM01208 is given a fume effect – grey at the centre, fading to black at its periphery. The Xperience edition is further delineated by its titanium and ceramic bezel, whereas the PAM01207 is an all-titanium bezel. Both watches will come with two straps – both are already mounted with a bi-material strap with a rubber base and a grey technical fabric inlay featuring tone-on-tone stitching, as well as a strap with recycled plastic featuring light blue stitching.

The caseback is solid, featuring an engraving of imagery that symbolises Jimmy Chin – a Mountain in the background, with an American flag, and crossed skis – imagery that represents his achievements and his origins as an adventure athlete.

Powering the watch is the P.9100 column-wheel controlled chronograph movement with flyback function, and 3 days of power reserve. In addition to these features, the movement features an unusual central minute counter, and also has a seconds reset function, enabling precise setting to a timing signal, ie: an atomic clock.

As mentioned, the Xperience Edition comes with a little surprise for the new owners – an expedition to Jackson Hole, Wyoming USA, where Jimmy Chin resides for much of the year. This will be an opportunity to travel (presumably once the pandemic situation has been resolved) and form a personal bond with the man himself, and to be taken through his expeditions through his eyes. Photography, which forms much of his professional career, will also be the subject of an in-depth seminar by Chin, giving hands-on experience to the attendees of his works.

As items that are inspired by a sense of adventure and wanderlust, it is hard to go past this watch that symbolises all that is good about exploring the world today. Panerai has found a great ambassador in Jimmy Chin, and undoubtedly have created two watches that make one feel like an explorer. These experiences attached with a watch will no doubt form key connections with the future buyers that will make them inseparable from their owners, forming powerful bonds between owner and the Laboratorio de Idee for years to come.

Panerai Submersible Chrono Flyback – J.Chin Edition – PAM01207

MOVEMENT: Automatic mechanical, P.9100 calibre

FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph flyback, seconds reset

POWER RESERVE: Three days.

CASE: Diameter 47mm. Brushed titanium case. Brushed titanium bezel. Anti-clockwise rotating bezel with graduated scale. Safety Lock crown protection device in brushed titanium. Screw and engraved titanium caseback. Sapphire crystal.

DIAL: Grey with luminous hour markers and dots. Chronograph hour counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock and central chronograph seconds and minute hands.

STRAP: Bi-material with gray fabric, T/T stitching, STD, 26/22, BA. Trapezoidal brushed titanium buckle.

WATER-RESISTANCE: 30 bar (~300 meters). 

Panerai Submersible Chrono Flyback – J.Chin Edition Xperience Edition – PAM01208

MOVEMENT: Automatic mechanical, P.9100 calibre

FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph flyback, seconds reset.

POWER RESERVE: Three days.

CASE: Diameter 47mm. Brushed titanium DLC. Titanium ceramic anti-clockwise rotating bezel with graduated scale. Safety Lock crown protection device in brushed titanium. Screw and engraved caseback in brushed titanium. Sapphire crystal.

DIAL: Shaded grey with luminous hour markers and dots. Chronograph hour counter at 3 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock and central chronograph seconds and minute hands.

STRAP: Bi-material with gray fabric T/T stitching, STD, 26/22, BA. Trapezoidal titanium with DLC coating buckle.

WATER-RESISTANCE: 30 bar (~300 meters).

In order to remain fresh and relevant though, one area in which the watch industry enjoys experimentation is through different dial colours – we have often seen blue, grey and tones of brown make their debuts throughout the years. In the last two years however, we have seen a verdant explosion of green dials, not only in models focused for more casual wear, but also permeating through classically designed watches as well. In 2021, we have seen this trend persist through the releases at the recent Watches and Wonders show in Geneva – here we will explore some of the best green watches that have been released this year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green

The Art Deco legend from La Grande Maison receives the green treatment this year, with a sunburst finishing radiating from the centre of its dial that brings subtle changes to its appearance, depending on the way the light hits it. Everything else is classic Reverso, including a small seconds indicator, Dauphine hands and the emblematic Art Deco gadroons at the top and bottom of its swivelling case. The reverse side is a blank canvas – for the owner to leave clean as a reminder of its Polo origins, or for personalisation (models of the past are renowned for having their owner’s initials engraved on the reverse side). The watch is mounted on a green calf-skin strap in the signature Casa Fagliano style with the stitched fold close to the lugs, and powering the watch is the in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2 – a manually wound shaped movement that features in much of the Reverso line.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 with Green Dial

With the “it” watch of the last few years being discontinued, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711 has its last hurrah with the 5711/1A-014, featuring a subtle olive green dial to be produced for the year of 2021 only. The rest remains familiar – its Gerald Genta design featuring a case and bracelet that has a strong interplay between its satin brushed and polished elements, requiring 55 steps in the process of its finissage. It is a watch that has remained bold in its execution since 1976, with its porthole-inspired design embodying a casual elegance that is virtually unmatched by other watches of a similar ilk. Housed within the stainless steel case is an improved version of Patek Philippe’s reliable Calibre 324 S C – the 26-330 S C upgrades this movement with an improved winding system and hacking seconds. All in all, a fitting send off for the legendary Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A, something that is sure to have collectors champing at the bit to get their hands on one.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

For what was originally meant to be a tribute to tool watches of yore, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight welcomes a precious metal version in 18K Yellow Gold with a green dial in 2021. Sporting an entirely brushed finish, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K manages to make this usually loud material into something rather understated, and even suggests a form of utilitarian toughness. The green of this dial is also slightly muted, whilst simultaneously complementing the yellow gold case with its gilt markers and Snowflake hands. It may not make sense at first, but once you take a deeper dive with the watch, there is an intangible understanding of the method behind the madness. Housed within the 200m water resistant case is the Tudor in-house Calibre MT5400, that is visible behind a sapphire crystal caseback – a rarity amongst watches from Tudor.

Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial

Evoking a lush green tropical forest, the Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial brings the essence of the wild to the wrist. This watch exhibits Rolex’s commitment to dial-making, showing off the Palm Motif in two shades of green, on an olive green background. Whilst this may sound like the colours would blend into each other, the reality is that the shades are distinctive enough for the Palm Motif to be made out, even at just a glance. This variant was presented to us in an Oystersteel case with domed bezel, mounted on an Oyster bracelet. Housed within the 36mm case is the Rolex Calibre 3235, with additions such as the Chronergy escapement that aids with movement efficiency and enabling a 70 hour power reserve, as well as holding the Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification –  guaranteeing timekeeping thresholds of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel PAM01356, Verde Smeraldo

A green dial for an environmentally friendly watch – fitting for a watch featuring the debut of Panerai’s eSteel. The case of the Luminor Marina eSteel contains 89 grams of recycled steel, which, out of the 152.4 grams of the total weight of the watch, comprises 58.4% of the total weight. This includes the trademark crown-protection system that is the signature element of the Panerai Luminor line. This development is remarkable, because it signifies the arrival of Panerai into sustainable watch manufacturing, whereas many other watch manufactures will use virgin  material for the construction of their watches. This notion of sustainability goes right down to the strap and buckle – the strap being crafted out of recycled textiles, and the buckle being hewn from the same eSteel as the watch case. Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre P.9010, automatically wound with 3 days of power reserve. The Verde Smeraldo version, PAM01356, is a boutique and eCommerce exclusive – if you want one of the greenest watches out there (literally and figuratively), best to talk to Panerai as soon as you can.

Cartier Tank Must

Bringing back an aesthetic of the 80s back into the present-day, the new Cartier Tank Must features a set of three monochromatic colours that echo the spirit of the original Tank Must models of the late 70s and early 80s. In particular, a Green dial version is the latest addition to this series, having never before been offered in the Must collection of yore. A vibrant addition to the series, the green is certainly vibrant and eye-catching. The watches feature a dial with no markings – freeing itself from traditional watchmaking design cues, and creating a clean slate of colour. Housed in a stainless steel case, the Tank Must is powered by a Quartz movement, and mounted on a matching strap respective to its dial colour.

Montblanc Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – Lime Gold

Minerva is undoubtedly the unsung hero of Montblanc, creating some of the finest watches that the industry has to offer. For 2021, the brand introduces a slight variation of green to their Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – a case crafted of their exclusive material, Lime Gold. An 18K alloy of Gold (750 parts/1000), Silver (238 parts/1000) and Iron (12 parts/1000), this combination gives a distinctive greenish hue to what is normally a yellow metal. The intended effect is to evoke a sense of vintage aesthetics through its colour – combined with the Cathedral hands, green numerals and the gold coloured dial, the watch certainly evokes the sense that it is from another era. This combined with the colimacon (snail) tachymetre scale, further reinforces the old-world feel of this watch. When the watch is turned over and viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, we see the gorgeous Minerva Calibre MB M16.31 – traditionally hand finished with bridges crafted of German Silver that has been coated with 18k gold. A manually-wound, monopusher split-second chronograph movement, the watch contains two column wheels to control the chronograph and its ingenious split second mechanism.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 – Green Dial

The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is traditionally a design that is conservative, with a black dial echoing the original “Mark” series wrist watches first issued to the RAF in the late 40s and 50s. In recent times, however, we have seen blue and brown dials, paying tribute to Le Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint Exupery respectively. For Watches and Wonders 2021, we see an unusual addition to this line, a green dial version of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 in regular production. Appearing as a rich, dark green, it almost resembles British Racing Green in its tones – the sunburst finishing on the dial definitely helps with this. This new model also features the brand’s EasX-CHANGE system, that enables quick strap changes between bracelet and leather options. Housed within the watch is the in-house Calibre 69385 movement, an Automatic Chronograph movement visible from its sapphire crystal caseback.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer – Green Dial Titanium

The Aquaracer, is a favourite first watch for many people who like watches (certainly in Australia), and this year, it has been given a facelift and an upgrade, particularly in the materials department. Most notably, the green version of this watch now features a titanium case and bracelet, bringing lightness and comfort to this model, in addition to its toughness and high water resistance. The horizontal ridges of the previous models are retained, whilst the ceramic bezel now features a sunburst brushing with a yellow triangle at 12. The bracelet clasp also receives an upgrade, now equipped with a fine adjustment system that is operational even whilst the watch is on the wrist. Housed within the titanium case is the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Automatic, featuring the date at 6 o’clock.

Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint

Bold and contemporary with its choice of colour, the Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked is a mint green number with a DLC coated case. Coming in either 38mm or 42mm case sizes, the brand’s signature Piccadilly case is modernised to enable a better fit on the wrist by integrating the strap closer to the case itself. This duality of the anachronistic, yet modern case lends itself to the movement that hosts the audacious choices of colour. The Calibre SMA02 incorporates darkened bridges on the dial side, as well as a mint green backdrop that accentuates these structures. In addition, the subdials at 1:30 and 9:00 (for the sub-seconds and the dual time respectively), feature mint green accents for an extra colour pop. The movement is also wound through a micro-rotor, and also features a retrograde date underneath the seconds subdial.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes aux Fees Edition

Coming in at only 2mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept remains the thinnest mechanical watch in the world – to honour the place where Piaget continues to further the art of ultra-thin, the brand unveils the Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes Aux Fees Edition, with green integrated components that echo the forests and green fields that surround the manufacture. This watch began its journey in 2018 as a true concept watch, and it was unknown to the public whether this would become a production piece. In 2020, a production version was realised, officially making it the thinnest mechanical watch in regular production. The case, mainplate and bezel is all one piece, and is machined out of a cobalt alloy for rigidity. All of the movement components are placed into the case to reduce its case height to the extremes, and even the crown is rectangular and telescopic to reduce the overall thickness of the watch.

Green on watches is a colour that, when done right, can be incredibly wearable and complementary to many wardrobes. In addition, some of these watches with exceptional colour hold exceptional movements, as seen in some of the examples above. We at ISOCHRONO believe that there is no doubt that green is here to stay, being a welcome addition to many watch collections.

Panerai Submersible eLab-ID, PAM01225

The new Panerai Submersible eLab-ID is a new concept watch that contains the highest percentage of recycled materials to be featured in a luxury timepiece. Through this model, Panerai is suggesting that there is a way to introduce what they have termed “circular manufacturing” into watch production, where as much of the materials are recycled and recovered. This new watch features the highest percentage-by-weight of recycled materials, with around 98.6% of its weight in recycled materials. By producing this concept watch, Panerai had to create an entirely new supply chain for this to be feasible – collaborating with existing and new suppliers across not only watchmaking, but also aerospace and automotive industries.

As such, this new watch features a case (including bezel and caseback), trademark sandwich dial and movement bridges made of Eco-Titanium, that is 80% pure recycled content. This is also the first watch to feature 100% recycled SuperLuminova for the luminescent material on the dial, as well as 100% recycled silicon for the escape wheel and pallet fork/anchor. Even the sapphire crystal and gold hands feature recycled materials in their production.

The Panerai Submersible eLab-ID measures 44mm in diameter, and includes its trademark crown protection device. Its Eco-Titanium dial features light blue recycled SuperLuminova, and is mounted on a “Grigio Roccia” coloured strap that is made from recycled plastic with light blue stitching. Housed within its sustainably sourced case is the calibre P.900e, with 3 days of power reserve. 

This is a limited edition of 30 pieces worldwide, and is sure to create new ways of watch manufacturing that incorporate sustainable methods and materials in the future. What’s more, Panerai have indicated their willingness to share the methods that they have learnt with any other brand in order that the watch industry as a whole can become a powerful force for good to save the environment, and in so doing, lead the way towards a new collaborative attitude for real change.

Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel, PAM01157, PAM01356 and PAM01358

Continuing the theme of sustainability, Panerai also introduces the Luminor Marina eSteel series of watches that contain 58.4% by weight of recycled materials, amounting to 89 grams in each watch. In addition, this new eSteel alloy exhibits the same chemical properties, physical structure and corrosion resistance as “virgin” steel used in many watches today. Both the case and dial are made of this material, including the trademark crown protection device.

This new Luminor Marina eSteel watch is available in three colours: Blu Profondo, Grigio Roccia and Verde Smeraldo, of which the latter is a Panerai Boutique and eCommerce exclusive piece. All of the dials feature a polished finishing with gradient colouring going from top to bottom, light to dark. The crowns are rubber-coated to match the dial colour, and are mounted on a recycled textile strap that match each dial colour, with an additional rubber strap included in a storage box that is made of recycled materials.

Housed within the sustainable case is the in-house P.9010 movement with 3 days of power reserve, and is 300m water resistant – perfect for water sports.

This direction that Panerai is taking for 2021 is great for many reasons, but mainly for the fact that they are holding a conversation that is not often had in the watch industry – namely, how can the watch industry do better in terms of being more environmentally friendly. Through the eLab-ID concept watch and the new series of eSteel watches, Panerai have shown that it is entirely possible to make watches in a sustainable fashion, and that they are able to lead the way for the watch industry to join the circular economy.

Let’s hope that their efforts are not too late, or we’ll be in a world of trouble.

With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

So what’s the new material on offer this year as part of the digital edition of Watches & Wonders by the brand? Well it is called Fibratech, and it is featured on the new PAM01119 and the new PAM 1663.

Both watches are essentially the same mechanically. Both have the automatic P.9010 Calibre with 3 days of power reserve. Yet, while the PAM 1663 is a nice watch that has a blue dial with a graded effect, the PAM01119 takes the same basic technical ingredients and kicks things up a notch a’la the PAM01117 (that you can read about here), and comes with the TRON like lume (SuperLuminova X1) that decorates the dial rehaut, the device protecting the crown and other bits.

The Luminor Marina PAM01117 is a glow in the dark wonder

It’s nice to see Panerai embracing its initial raison d’etre of being readable underwater by Italian Navy divers with the brightest lume, and extending the light show that has thus far been limited only to the dial, now to the rest of the case. It certainly makes its “LUMINOR” name mean something more, placing the brand now, head and shoulders over most other brands in this particular aspect.

However, unlike the PAM01117, which comes in a case of sintered titanium, the new PAM01119 and its sibling the PAM1663 comes in brand new material that sees its first use ever in watchmaking – Fibratech.

Just what is Fibratech then?That dark, uneven texture that is on the watch comes about due to the use of mineral fibres that are made of a fusion of basalt rock and minerals additive. From the press release, “These fibres are bound with high-end polymers to become thin layers which are superimposed in a precise orientation and then consolidated through a pressure and temperature controlled process.”

That certainly sounds alot like how carbon fibre is made, and should account for its use in the aerospace and automotive industries, since it is 60% lighter than steel, resilient and highly resistant to corrosion.

There is not a-lot of information about Fibratech or indeed the company that makes it, and so I am unable to verify any of these claims for now. I think that Panerai will probably release more information on this new composite soon, with its remarkable physical and mechanical properties, and how it is apparently eco-sustainable.That being said, it’s interesting that basalt rock and minerals can be a basis for a composite since we’ve heard of it more in the context of it being the material that is extruded from volcanoes.The Fibratech cased PAM01119 is a limited edition of 270 units, just like its lume show sibling the PAM01117 with both having the ultra long 70 year warranty, since both are part of the 70th Anniversary of the Luminor. The other Fibratech cased watch, the PAM01663 is not a limited edition and will be part of the regular collection.

Looking forward to having a closer look at these watches when the lock-down is over, and perhaps to get more technical information from Panerai regarding Fibratech in the meantime.

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Also notable is the use of a technology that Panerai brought to watchmaking in 2016 with the Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM578 – Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS). This is a 3D printing process involving the sedimentation of titanium powder, sintered layer by layer by a high-powered optical fibre laser, 30 microns (0.03 mm) at a time to make up the case. Inside the watch is the in-house P.9010 calibre, an automatic movement with 3 days of power reserve. 

Lastly, in order to make it more attractive for owners, the new watch comes with a 70 year warranty, as part of the Pam.Guard care programme that was launched last year. Now this doesn’t mean that the watch will last 70 years without any servicing whatsoever, it just means that Panerai will maintain the good working order of the watch as necessary under the terms and conditions of the International warranty.

Limited to 270 pieces and only available at Panerai boutiques, the PAM 01117 is a good start to their novelties this year, since it looks great and has interesting technical features. This probably means that there will be more interesting watches that will come next for this year’s novelties. 

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