Ref. 5373P-001: Split Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar

The name itself reveals how much work has gone into this single reference from the brand renowned for its Grand Complications. This new reference takes the previous Ref. 5372 (with all of its complications) and makes it a watch for left handers. The watch takes its inspiration from a 1927 cushion-shaped wristwatch with a split seconds chronograph, that was made on request in a left-handed configuration. A unique configuration of the dial was made for this special request piece, crafted in silver with Breguet numerals, and a chronograph layout that is opposite to that of a watch that has its pusher and crown on the right side of the case. To complete the left-handed arrangement of this watch, the movement was rotated 180 degrees to accommodate the layout. 

The 5373P takes this historical watch and combines this with a perpetual calendar – a complication that is almost synonymous with Patek Philippe and complicated watches. This new grand complication measures 38.5mm in diameter and is exquisitely crafted from platinum – as per tradition with all platinum watches from Patek Philippe, a diamond is set into the caseband, however it is set at 12 o’clock, instead of 6 o’clock as it is a left-handed configuration. The dial is charcoal coloured with a fume finish and a vertical satin brushing, and reveals the grand complication in all of its glory. 3 and 9 o’clock feature subdials for the chronograph (running seconds and chronograph minutes respectively). A sporty red colour on the hands denotes the chronograph functions, with this colour extending to the chronograph minutes hand, as well as the chronograph seconds and split seconds hands. The date is visible through a subdial at 12 o’clock, flanked by the leap year and day/night indicators, and the day and month indications are set within the 3 and 9 o’clock subdials respectively. Start and stop control of the chronograph is done through the pusher set into the crown at 9 o’clock, and the rattrapante (split seconds) functions are controlled through the pusher at 8 o’clock. 

The watch is delivered on a calf-skin leather strap that is embossed to resemble a fabric strap, fastened with a platinum folding clasp. The watch is also delivered with a solid platinum caseback, should one ever get sick of the view through the sapphire crystal caseback, where the CHR 27-525 PS Q movement can be admired. A signature of this movement are two column wheels that control the chronograph and rattrapante functions, both topped with a polished cap in typical Patek Philippe style. The 5373P is now the only watch that features this movement, with its predecessor, the 5372P having been discontinued. 

Ref. 7968/300R-001: Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph

The Aquanaut Luce line of watches was first introduced in 1997, as a model for ladies who like their watches with a touch of sparkle. Luce, the Italian word for ‘light’, is an apt description for its gem set bezel, and in this release, this luminous reference not only receives a technicolor bezel, but debuts the second complication in the Aquanaut Luce line – a mechanical chronograph. 

Out of all of the elements on its 39.9mm rose gold case, the most eye-catching element of this new release is its bezel. Two rows of baguette cut gems encircle the octagonal bezel, a row of 40 Flawless Top Wesselton (F-G Colour, Internally Flawless Clarity) diamonds surrounding the dial totalling 2.05 carats, and a second, slightly angled row of 40 sapphires, each hand picked for their colour to complete the transition of colour from one sapphire to the next. Each stone is invisibly set, with a notch in the lower facet that allows for the gem to be fastened by a metal rail, invisible from the outside. 

The rainbow is continued on the inside of the dial, with each of the hour markers set with a baguette cut sapphire that matches the colour of the bezel at that point. Illuminating the appearance of the watch is the dial itself, crafted from mother of pearl and engraved with the Aquanaut’s signature grid-like pattern in the centre of the dial. 

To suit all moods and tastes, the watch comes on a red composite strap, with a matte white and a matte beige strap of the same material included. Securing this treasure to the wrist is a deployant clasp set with 10 baguette diamonds, weighing approximately 0.36 carats.

Housed within the exquisitely adorned case is the CH 28-520 movement, incorporating a chronograph that measures seconds and up to 60 minutes, as well as automatic winding. This movement from Patek Philippe also features a vertical clutch, meaning that starting and stopping the chronograph will not result in jitters from gears meshing together, leading to higher precision of timed events. It also means that the chronograph seconds hand will not adversely affect timekeeping, and can also be used as a running seconds hand, should the wearer wish to activate the chronograph for this purpose.

Steel Variations on the Travel Watch – the Nautilus 5990/1A-011 and the 5935A-001

The famed Nautilus collection receives a new variation on the Travel Time Chronograph watch, the Ref. 5990/1A-011. This model is set apart by its blue dial, and its gradient finish, fading to black at its periphery. This watch is all a traveller could ever need – date displayed in a subdial at 12 o’clock, chronograph minutes in a subdial at 6 o’clock, and indicators for home and local time situated at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. Controlling the second time zone are two pushers that are cleverly integrated into the case as the “ears” of the case on the left side of the watch. Pressing these pushers will add or subtract hours to the local time, with the home time being displayed by a second hour hand that is skeletonised to differentiate it from the local time hand.

This functionality is thanks to the CH 28-520 C FUS, that incorporates all of this functionality into a self-winding vertical clutch chronograph with travel time functionality and date. This is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback when the watch is turned around.

This watch also features the new Nautilus bracelet, that is patented to Patek Philippe with its four independent catches, and its on-the-fly adjustable clasp.

Another steel rarity unveiled by Patek Philippe is the Ref. 5945A-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph, which was previously seen in precious metals only.

Combining two emblematic complications of the brand – world time and chronograph, the watch features a rose coloured dial, with guillochage in the centre of the watch that evokes a “carbon fibre” pattern, as well as harking to the Ref. 6007 Calatrava model that was made in celebration of the new manufacturing facility at Plan-les-Ouates in 2020.

The watch is delivered with two straps, a grained taupe strap, and beige nubuck with a velvety finish. Housed inside the stainless steel case is the CH 28-520 HU, a self-winding vertical clutch chronograph movement with world time functionality.

Patek Philippe once again manages to surprise and delight its fans with models that are sure to become fan favourites. Through these pieces, the brand not only shows its dedication to Fine Watchmaking, but it also shows its mastery of gemsetting, as well as its master of creating insatiable demand that will make any watch enthusiast chomp at the bit to get their hands on these cult models.

As a physiology major in university, Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy played a large part in our studies. A genetic disorder affecting mainly boys, its effect on growing children is devastating, as muscle membrane proteins are unable to repair effectively. Currently, gene therapy is undergoing trials in patients, and it has shown some promise in increasing muscle strength – however, there is still much work to be done in this field in order to develop new therapies for this affliction. 

Every two years, the watch world together with the Association Monegasque contre les Myopathies, works on an auction where all proceeds go to funding research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – as of early 2021, over 70 million Euro has been raised to benefit children afflicted by this disease. It is an opportunity for brands and independent watchmakers to put forward their wildest watches, ranging from prototypes, to altered colour schemes for familiar pieces, all the way to new movements and complications.

For someone who studied physiology, and has delved into the mechanisms of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, it is truly enlightening to see the watch world come together for such a noble cause. It is one of the rare times we see the industry so united, and we think there is no better cause than this for them to create these one-offs.

Our founder Adi Soon has written about his picks for Only Watch – here are my fantasy picks if I had the wallet to help raise money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Akrivia – Chronometre Contemporain II

A darling child of the independent watch scene, Rexhep Rexhepi begins a new chapter in his career with the Chronometre Contemporain II. Retaining the lauded classical aesthetics of the first version of his Chronometre Contemporain, the watch is built from the ground-up as an entirely new timepiece.

A dial with a two-stage production process of grand-feu enamel, followed by a translucent champagne-coloured flinque enamel graces the front of the watch.l  The case, hewn from 950 Platinum respects traditional craftsmanship, and is produced in 14 parts by Jean-Pierre Hagmann – a boitier/casemaker by trade who has been lauded for his minute repeater cases, manufacturing for numerous brands in the past and is now working with Rexhepi. The “JHP” hallmark on the lugs signifies its provenance, and each of these lugs are individually soldered to the case.

Housed within its platinum case is a manually wound movement that is aesthetically similar to what was housed in the previous Chronometre Contemporain, however it now incorporates a dead-beat seconds mechanism, as well as being certified by the Besancon Observatory. This watch also includes an experience of visiting the Besancon Observatory – undoubtedly a package that represents fine watchmaking as a whole, in its craftsmanship and its history.

Blancpain – Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No-Rads

Proving to be incredibly popular amongst watch fans, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms series of watches looks back into the archives, and revives key models that were instrumental in forming the evolution of the modern dive watch. At Only Watch 2021, the No-Rads has been brought back with orange-coloured accents on the dial and bezel to match with the theme of the auction – this can look like an attractive pumpkin-like patina, which vintage enthusiasts are sure to enjoy.

This version for this edition of Only Watch also removes the date window, cleaning up the dial and making it more symmetrical – this is, however, not how the original was presented, but will be sure to please those that love a cleaner aesthetic. The orange colour scheme extends down to the No-Rads symbol at 6 o’clock – instead of yellow and red, it is now orange and yellow. Powering this version of the watch is the Blancpain Calibre 1154, with a custom-engraved rotor commemorating Only Watch 2021.

Chopard – Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

For fans of Switzerland, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the brand’s familiar sports watch, but with the addition of a natural Swiss granite stone dial from the Graubunden region of the country. Speckled with blue and green inclusions, the dial echoes the view of the Alpine region from the sky.

Naturally, in order to view the beauty of the stone dial, the sapphire crystal has the brand printed onto it. The 44mm case is made from Lucent Steel, the same as in the main line collections where a portion of the steel used is recycled – this steel is also harder than traditional 316L Stainless Steel used in many watches. Housed within the fantastic steel case is the Chopard 03.05-C movement, for which 3 patents are filed for the chronometer certified movement, and the watch is delivered on a calfskin strap with a titanium inlay.

Czapek – Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise”

ISOCHRONO are very much fans of this new release from Czapek, and we wrote about it extensively earlier this year. This version of the Antarctique features an orange colour that is CVD coated, done in partnership with Positive Coating.

The movement itself is also the fruit of a partnership – with Chronode, no less. The SHX6 movement displays the entire split seconds chronograph mechanism on the dial side, to display the beauty of its finishing, and the mechanical interactions each component plays when the chronograph is activated.

Housed in Stainless Steel, and measuring in at 42.5mm, the Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise” also features chronograph subdials and a minutes track in fume coated sapphire crystal – the minutes track also features a hidden message from 0-10 seconds – “Courage Every Second” – a message that is fitting for an auction that benefits Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

DeBethune/Voutilainen

On the surface the entry from DeBethune and Kari Voutilainen represents a collision of worlds, with a stark juxtaposition of classic and modern watchmaking in one watch. In reality, the duo of Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen is closer than one might think – they both had the same teacher when they attended watchmaking school, and hence, each side represents their vision of watchmaking.

Kari Voutilainen’s side of the watch continues his very classical interpretation of watch dials, with multiple forms of guilloche visible on the dial, and heavily stylised Breguet-esque hands. Denis Flageollet’s side, on the other hand, displays the hyper-modern watchmaking that DeBethune is famous for – Star Trek-like shapes for the movement components, and skeletonised bridges to expose more of the mechanisms lying underneath.

Voutilainen’s side uses the Isogone display, where a minute ring revolves with the minutes hand. This means that hands will always line up at the hour, be at 90 degrees for 15 minutes past the hour, 180 degrees for the half hour, and 270 degrees for 45 minutes past the hour – the idea being that the display of the hands remains consistent throughout the hours. This side also features a large deadbeat seconds hand. DeBethune’s side involves a rotating minute hand at the periphery of the dial, and the hours indicator curiously positioned where the balance wheel is located – an unusual arrangement, but nonetheless an attractive one that leaves the construction of the movement to speak wonders for the watch. The calibre OW21 housed within has a 4 day power reserve, and features a titanium balance wheel as well as a silicon escapement.

FP Journe x Francis Ford Coppola – FFC Blue

Taking an incredible 7 years from conception to development, the FFC Blue was inspired during a dinner between Coppola and Journe, with Coppola asking if there was any possible way for a watch to tell the time with a hand – and not in the sense that we are used to in watchmaking. Journe took the inspiration of this display from a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Pare, the father of modern surgery, and had to devise a way to display all 12 hours with only 5 fingers.

Furthermore, this is powered by a version of the Octa 1300 movement, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Housed within a weighty tantalum case, the movement is crafted entirely of rose gold, and the rotor is engraved with the names of Ambroise Pare, Francis Ford Coppola, and of course, FP Journe.

The minutes are displayed on a disc on the periphery of the dial with a blued triangular arrow, and of course, the “digital” hours are indicated by the blue hand in the centre of the dial. Whilst we can certainly think of ways that this watch can be even more provocative through the use of its middle digits, this watch is certainly provocative enough with its radical display of time, and incorporation of automata in its construction.

Girard-Perregaux – Casquette, Only Watch Edition

It’s back to the future for Girard-Perregaux at the 2021 edition of Only Watch, as the brand works with Bamford Watch Department to unveil a new version of the famous LED watch from 1976. The watch uses a new movement that utilises an LED display, just like the original Casquette, but protects this in a case of forged carbon and titanium.

Titanium pushers are used to activate the display – just like in the 1970s, LED displays still utilise a lot of power, and the pushers activate the display on demand. Undoubtedly, this is a great way to get vintage vibes from the 70s, whilst retaining an essence of modernity in the form of the case.

Krayon – Anywhere

Featuring a lacquer dial with a mosaic effect, the Krayon Anywhere for Only Watch 2021 features an interpretation of Claude Monet’s “Impression, rising sun” on its Metiers d’Art dial. Distinctive for being the only watch with its Equation of Time and Sunrise/Sunset function capable of being set for any location on Earth, the buyer of this watch will be able to choose the location upon purchase.

The watch also features an incredible amount of fine finishing on the movement – as a prototype, it is finished excellently with manually executed bevels, many of them internal bevels.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch

The shape of the “bulldog” lent itself well to an iteration of this watch in Panda form, with its rounded edges and organic forms. To further the Panda aesthetic, titanium ears were added to domed upper sapphire crystal, the upper case was reworked in stainless steel to accept a black and white lacquer finishing, and a silicon nitride ball was used for its tail. As the Panda is always munching on bamboo, the teeth remain underneath the “eyes/hour and minutes indicators” of the panda – this also serves to indicate the power reserve. To top it all off, the Panda motif is further reinforced with a black and white velcro strap.

Patek Philippe – “Complicated Desk Clock”

For those that managed to procure the entire collection of Patek Philippe watches (including the elusive Nautilus 5711/1A), Patek Philippe dug deep into its archives and based their Only Watch 2021 entry on a clock owned by a famous collector. Originally delivered in 1923, the original clock was ordered by James Ward Packard, and now resides in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The modestly named Only Watch 2021 clock is a veritable horological beast, hewn from Sterling Silver, with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut furniture. Driven by the Calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the clock boasts a power reserve of 31 days with power reserve indicator, a perpetual calendar, jumping seconds and a week indicator shown through a red window at the periphery of the dial. Its precision in construction utilising its Gyromax balance wheel and a 28,800 vph oscillation frequency, the clock is adjusted to within +1/-1 seconds per day – an amazing rate of accuracy for a mechanical clock, and we can expect nothing but the best from Patek Philippe.

Speake Marin – Dual Time Openworked Only Watch The Sun

With the world awakening from its pandemic slumber, it could be said that the Speake Marin is a watch for the times. Equipped with an in-house dual-time movement (the SMA02), the watch is ready to accompany its wearer on journeys across the world.

Contrasting with 42mm DLC coated case is an orange dial that is the thematic colour of this year’s edition of Only Watch, not only representing hope and progress in the world of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research, but also a reminder of the reemerging world.

TAG Heuer – Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A modern reinterpretation of the “Dark Lord” Monaco, the watch takes its inspiration from this vintage model of the 70s, and utilises modern materials to update its look and feel, whilst incorporating thoroughly modern features in its movement construction. The case is made from forged carbon, and the Only Watch 2021 thematic colours of orange stand out against its dark skeletonised dial.

The movement features a ‘gratte’ finish to echo a finishing flag that brings to mind its racing heritage, and the rear of the watch features the largest sapphire crystal case back to ever be featured on a Monaco. Within the forged carbon case is the Heuer 02 in-house movement, that is curiously fitted with a carbon hairspring – continuing the theme of carbon within the movement. It is fantastic to see that the carbon hairspring has made its way back to a production watch, and we can only hope that it is a signal for things to come.

Zenith x Felipe Pantone – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone

All of your chromatic dreams come true – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone brings the artist’s chromatic artistic inspiration to the wrist in an amazing 46mm sapphire case. A rainbow for the wrist, the multi-coloured finishings are applied to an El Primero 9020 movement that features one tourbillon for timekeeping and one for the chronograph itself, beating at 5Hz and 50Hz respectively. Accompanying the watch will be an artwork made by the artist himself. Two whirlwinds are better than one, and with this watch and the accompanying artwork, it will undoubtedly be a colourful one at that.

It’s not always possible to view auction grade pieces up close, let alone be allowed to handle them to enjoy the details. This is the reason why it will be quite a unique opportunity to interact with some rarest and most significant pocket watches from the private collection of Ali Nael, CEO and Founder of 2ToneVintage.

Says Ali Nael, ““As a passionate collector myself, I hope to preserve and forward the culture of watch appreciation, especially vintages and such programs helps in raising interest, and there are some pieces here which are museum piece, it’s only right that their existence is made known instead of being kept in a cabinet in obscurity.” Says Ali Nael, CEO & Founder of 2ToneVintage Watches”

Some of the pieces on display include such Patek Philippe rarities such as the Garnet Heart, the Ref. 605 HU cloisonné enamel worldtimer, and the Ref 962/1J Grand Complication with Minute Repeater and Equation of Time. Pocket watches from other brands are represented as well, with notable pieces from Breguet, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet also available for viewing. 

The idea behind the exhibition is quite interesting. It’s called “The Beginning” and the concept is to look into the history of watchmaking, honouring what remains true to this day – the value of time, and seeing how mankind has valued time through the means that he has invented to measure it. 

The walls of the boutique will show this “walk down memory lane”, showcasing the important milestones of timekeeping history, from sundials to water clocks to the first mechanical clock, then to Peter Henlein creating the first portable clock, and onward to the pocket watches on display. 

Aside from hands-on time with these exclusive pocket watches, visitors will also get to learn about the servicing and maintenance of vintage watches at the service centre, with an in-house master watchmaker, guiding the demonstration). Finally, visitors will also get to view and experience the extensive inventory of auction grade vintage wrist watches.

If you’re interested to have a look, it is possible to walk in, due to limitations on the number of visitors allowed in the showroom, but please do inform 2ToneVintage in advance via the contact form here: https://pocketwatch.2tonevintage.com/#contact and visit the 2ToneVintage website to view their fantastic inventory of rare and previous vintage watches that you can purchase: https://www.2tonevintage.com/

It has finally happened. The watch-internet was broken by the announcement of a 2021 Patek Philippe Nautilus in Steel with Green Dial (5711/1A-014) that was sold at auction for CHF450,000 – an eye-watering price that represents a number over ten times the retail price of this particular reference. No doubt from an investment perspective, this is an incredible return for a piece destined to be produced for only one year – however, it has also begged the question from enthusiasts – “Where will it stop?”. For a number of years, enthusiasts have felt hard-done by the brands they once venerated and held so dear to their hearts – at the same time, watch brands are experiencing an unprecedented increase in brand equity, and subsequently, an increase in value on the secondary market. This dissonance between brands and enthusiasts only appears to be growing, and it seems that this widens the gap between the two groups – both of whom at the end of the day, are involved in this industry because of passion.

From a brand perspective, it can be argued that there has never been more eyes on the industry than the present time. If you have vaguely heard of watches, you will undoubtedly have heard of the astronomical numbers that have been achieved by certain watches at auction – the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Stainless Steel at Only Watch 2019 and Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona are the first that come to mind. These auction results have only served to bring fresh clients to boutiques interested in the world of watches, no doubt curious about the anachronisms that we enthusiasts discuss with such fervour. The prospect of a watch selling so much higher than its original RRP is certainly a rarity for many things, so when casual observers hear of wild gains over initial buying price, this naturally piques one’s interest – think of shares in Buy-Now-Pay-Later companies (Afterpay for my Australian compatriots), Cryptocurrency, or even the latest “asset class” – First Edition Pokemon Cards. All of this leads to greater brand equity for those that have watches that perform exceptionally at auction – buoyed by these results, this fuels a cycle of supply and demand that is never satisfied. Furthermore, in the world of luxury, demand is inelastic, and the target consumer is insensitive to price, fuelling a seemingly insatiable desire for our beloved watches. At the end of the day, this interest only serves to benefit the industry as a whole, meaning that watchmaking will take a licking and keep on ticking – the ultimate end goal of any industry, and particularly one where mechanical technology was long superseded by something technically more superior.

On the other side of the coin, by the very nature of being an enthusiast, you link yourself to your hobby of choice – this applies to any field, be it watches, cars, or even your favourite sports team. Being an enthusiast is a great thing because it brings like-minded people together, now able to indulge in conversation that would otherwise be nonsensical to those outside of this exclusive circle. People become enthusiasts in different ways – most often being through a respected relative, or through advertising encountered in daily life. Either way, once converted, the enthusiast is a loyal customer for life, researching, examining and feeling their way through to their next purchase. As such, the enthusiast feels that they are privy to knowledge that should be safeguarded and protected for those admitted into this inner circle, and they are not wrong for feeling this way. Depending on their time-of-entry, the enthusiast may have seen incredible watches at a relative bargain (think 5 digit Rolex references, Gerald Genta and Disney collaboration pieces, or early Roger Dubuis Lemania-powered monopusher chronographs), and done their research through buying and experiencing. Through the advent of social media, the old guard have been able to share this knowledge with the entire world, and they have had no small part to play in the world of watches opening up to a wider audience. The enthusiast world is very much fuelled by emotion – most of us are not pilots, divers or race-car drivers, but the notion that one of our watches was used in that environment evokes a sense of adventure in all of us.

Thus, when you have the semi-logical and commerce-driven side of increasing brand equity from our favourite companies, combined with the high-emotion of the highly educated enthusiast, the dissonance arises from astronomical auction prices – case in point, the most recent auction of the Patek Philippe Nautilus with Green Dial. For the casual observer, it is an incredible achievement of the industry to realise such a price for a watch that has been on the market for less than six months, and for the return on investment for the seller.

However, for the enthusiast, it represents another seemingly unattainable goal that has been snatched away, the argument being “why can’t it go to someone who truly loves the watch?”. As a purely emotionally-based argument, it makes sense – only those who love watches should be given pieces that are hard to get, and the brands that have the privilege of allocating watches to clients are attempting to do just that. When these limited pieces show up at auction and sell for incredibly high prices – the brand equity for the watch brand is increased, but the enthusiast goes through a range of emotions – disappointment, leading to anger and frustration.

So what can be done about this? Do the brands introduce even stricter policies on their retailers to vet customers? Should enthusiasts just suck it up, and stop complaining? You could take a page from Ice T’s book, and say “Don’t hate the player, hate the game”, but that statement is non-constructive at best, and condescending at worst. At the end of the day, brands should strive to be even closer to their customers, to deliver the best customer experience possible, and enthusiasts should also explore their options – there is plenty to be had in the world of watches, once your horizons have been widened through research, reading and get-togethers (Physical or Socially Distanced).

In order to remain fresh and relevant though, one area in which the watch industry enjoys experimentation is through different dial colours – we have often seen blue, grey and tones of brown make their debuts throughout the years. In the last two years however, we have seen a verdant explosion of green dials, not only in models focused for more casual wear, but also permeating through classically designed watches as well. In 2021, we have seen this trend persist through the releases at the recent Watches and Wonders show in Geneva – here we will explore some of the best green watches that have been released this year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green

The Art Deco legend from La Grande Maison receives the green treatment this year, with a sunburst finishing radiating from the centre of its dial that brings subtle changes to its appearance, depending on the way the light hits it. Everything else is classic Reverso, including a small seconds indicator, Dauphine hands and the emblematic Art Deco gadroons at the top and bottom of its swivelling case. The reverse side is a blank canvas – for the owner to leave clean as a reminder of its Polo origins, or for personalisation (models of the past are renowned for having their owner’s initials engraved on the reverse side). The watch is mounted on a green calf-skin strap in the signature Casa Fagliano style with the stitched fold close to the lugs, and powering the watch is the in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2 – a manually wound shaped movement that features in much of the Reverso line.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 with Green Dial

With the “it” watch of the last few years being discontinued, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711 has its last hurrah with the 5711/1A-014, featuring a subtle olive green dial to be produced for the year of 2021 only. The rest remains familiar – its Gerald Genta design featuring a case and bracelet that has a strong interplay between its satin brushed and polished elements, requiring 55 steps in the process of its finissage. It is a watch that has remained bold in its execution since 1976, with its porthole-inspired design embodying a casual elegance that is virtually unmatched by other watches of a similar ilk. Housed within the stainless steel case is an improved version of Patek Philippe’s reliable Calibre 324 S C – the 26-330 S C upgrades this movement with an improved winding system and hacking seconds. All in all, a fitting send off for the legendary Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A, something that is sure to have collectors champing at the bit to get their hands on one.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

For what was originally meant to be a tribute to tool watches of yore, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight welcomes a precious metal version in 18K Yellow Gold with a green dial in 2021. Sporting an entirely brushed finish, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K manages to make this usually loud material into something rather understated, and even suggests a form of utilitarian toughness. The green of this dial is also slightly muted, whilst simultaneously complementing the yellow gold case with its gilt markers and Snowflake hands. It may not make sense at first, but once you take a deeper dive with the watch, there is an intangible understanding of the method behind the madness. Housed within the 200m water resistant case is the Tudor in-house Calibre MT5400, that is visible behind a sapphire crystal caseback – a rarity amongst watches from Tudor.

Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial

Evoking a lush green tropical forest, the Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial brings the essence of the wild to the wrist. This watch exhibits Rolex’s commitment to dial-making, showing off the Palm Motif in two shades of green, on an olive green background. Whilst this may sound like the colours would blend into each other, the reality is that the shades are distinctive enough for the Palm Motif to be made out, even at just a glance. This variant was presented to us in an Oystersteel case with domed bezel, mounted on an Oyster bracelet. Housed within the 36mm case is the Rolex Calibre 3235, with additions such as the Chronergy escapement that aids with movement efficiency and enabling a 70 hour power reserve, as well as holding the Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification –  guaranteeing timekeeping thresholds of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel PAM01356, Verde Smeraldo

A green dial for an environmentally friendly watch – fitting for a watch featuring the debut of Panerai’s eSteel. The case of the Luminor Marina eSteel contains 89 grams of recycled steel, which, out of the 152.4 grams of the total weight of the watch, comprises 58.4% of the total weight. This includes the trademark crown-protection system that is the signature element of the Panerai Luminor line. This development is remarkable, because it signifies the arrival of Panerai into sustainable watch manufacturing, whereas many other watch manufactures will use virgin  material for the construction of their watches. This notion of sustainability goes right down to the strap and buckle – the strap being crafted out of recycled textiles, and the buckle being hewn from the same eSteel as the watch case. Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre P.9010, automatically wound with 3 days of power reserve. The Verde Smeraldo version, PAM01356, is a boutique and eCommerce exclusive – if you want one of the greenest watches out there (literally and figuratively), best to talk to Panerai as soon as you can.

Cartier Tank Must

Bringing back an aesthetic of the 80s back into the present-day, the new Cartier Tank Must features a set of three monochromatic colours that echo the spirit of the original Tank Must models of the late 70s and early 80s. In particular, a Green dial version is the latest addition to this series, having never before been offered in the Must collection of yore. A vibrant addition to the series, the green is certainly vibrant and eye-catching. The watches feature a dial with no markings – freeing itself from traditional watchmaking design cues, and creating a clean slate of colour. Housed in a stainless steel case, the Tank Must is powered by a Quartz movement, and mounted on a matching strap respective to its dial colour.

Montblanc Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – Lime Gold

Minerva is undoubtedly the unsung hero of Montblanc, creating some of the finest watches that the industry has to offer. For 2021, the brand introduces a slight variation of green to their Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – a case crafted of their exclusive material, Lime Gold. An 18K alloy of Gold (750 parts/1000), Silver (238 parts/1000) and Iron (12 parts/1000), this combination gives a distinctive greenish hue to what is normally a yellow metal. The intended effect is to evoke a sense of vintage aesthetics through its colour – combined with the Cathedral hands, green numerals and the gold coloured dial, the watch certainly evokes the sense that it is from another era. This combined with the colimacon (snail) tachymetre scale, further reinforces the old-world feel of this watch. When the watch is turned over and viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, we see the gorgeous Minerva Calibre MB M16.31 – traditionally hand finished with bridges crafted of German Silver that has been coated with 18k gold. A manually-wound, monopusher split-second chronograph movement, the watch contains two column wheels to control the chronograph and its ingenious split second mechanism.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 – Green Dial

The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is traditionally a design that is conservative, with a black dial echoing the original “Mark” series wrist watches first issued to the RAF in the late 40s and 50s. In recent times, however, we have seen blue and brown dials, paying tribute to Le Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint Exupery respectively. For Watches and Wonders 2021, we see an unusual addition to this line, a green dial version of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 in regular production. Appearing as a rich, dark green, it almost resembles British Racing Green in its tones – the sunburst finishing on the dial definitely helps with this. This new model also features the brand’s EasX-CHANGE system, that enables quick strap changes between bracelet and leather options. Housed within the watch is the in-house Calibre 69385 movement, an Automatic Chronograph movement visible from its sapphire crystal caseback.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer – Green Dial Titanium

The Aquaracer, is a favourite first watch for many people who like watches (certainly in Australia), and this year, it has been given a facelift and an upgrade, particularly in the materials department. Most notably, the green version of this watch now features a titanium case and bracelet, bringing lightness and comfort to this model, in addition to its toughness and high water resistance. The horizontal ridges of the previous models are retained, whilst the ceramic bezel now features a sunburst brushing with a yellow triangle at 12. The bracelet clasp also receives an upgrade, now equipped with a fine adjustment system that is operational even whilst the watch is on the wrist. Housed within the titanium case is the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Automatic, featuring the date at 6 o’clock.

Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint

Bold and contemporary with its choice of colour, the Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked is a mint green number with a DLC coated case. Coming in either 38mm or 42mm case sizes, the brand’s signature Piccadilly case is modernised to enable a better fit on the wrist by integrating the strap closer to the case itself. This duality of the anachronistic, yet modern case lends itself to the movement that hosts the audacious choices of colour. The Calibre SMA02 incorporates darkened bridges on the dial side, as well as a mint green backdrop that accentuates these structures. In addition, the subdials at 1:30 and 9:00 (for the sub-seconds and the dual time respectively), feature mint green accents for an extra colour pop. The movement is also wound through a micro-rotor, and also features a retrograde date underneath the seconds subdial.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes aux Fees Edition

Coming in at only 2mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept remains the thinnest mechanical watch in the world – to honour the place where Piaget continues to further the art of ultra-thin, the brand unveils the Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes Aux Fees Edition, with green integrated components that echo the forests and green fields that surround the manufacture. This watch began its journey in 2018 as a true concept watch, and it was unknown to the public whether this would become a production piece. In 2020, a production version was realised, officially making it the thinnest mechanical watch in regular production. The case, mainplate and bezel is all one piece, and is machined out of a cobalt alloy for rigidity. All of the movement components are placed into the case to reduce its case height to the extremes, and even the crown is rectangular and telescopic to reduce the overall thickness of the watch.

Green on watches is a colour that, when done right, can be incredibly wearable and complementary to many wardrobes. In addition, some of these watches with exceptional colour hold exceptional movements, as seen in some of the examples above. We at ISOCHRONO believe that there is no doubt that green is here to stay, being a welcome addition to many watch collections.

Patek Philippe proves time and time again why they stand at the apex of fine watchmaking, by conducting a masterclass on how to surprise and delight their fans the world over with two unexpected, and very fine releases, midway through Watches and Wonders 2021.

We thought it would just be a Nautilus party this week for Patek Philippe with the olive green dial iterations of the 5711 and the beautiful 5990 travel time chronograph in rose gold, but barely has the furore around those watches settled down, when a surprise announcement via video conference was just released today to take the spotlight back.

The two watches in question are an updated Calatrava with the famous “Clous de Paris” bezel with a new manually wound movement (Ref 6119) and a brand new Perpetual Calendar (ref 5236P) with a patented in-line display, which are both satisfying in their own way.

Calatrava Ref 6119

It’s true in recent times that the Calatrava has not been at the top of mind of watch collectors when it comes to the genre of the simple dress watch, and this is mostly because of the stiff competition from rival brands in the same category. 

It doesn’t take much though for collectors to return to the Calatrava eventually however, given that it was essentially Patek Philippe who invented the genre in 1932, in an era when pocket watches were more common than wrist watches. The idea for the Calatrava was for it to be a slim dress watch that could increase the mainstream appeal of Patek Philippe and be a counterpoint to the complicated models beloved of high-end collectors. 

The first Calatrava then was the iconic Reference 96, which would go on to become the quintessential elegant dress watch. The watch might have been simple on the surface, with only hours, minutes and seconds, yet below the surface when one looked closely, one could see all the essential values of the brand represented, in its peerless finishing and the highest quality of manufacture. 

This watch and its descendants would go on to become treasured heirlooms, worn with pride daily or for special occasions. 

Out of the Calatrava line of watches that descended from the first Reference 96 was a particularly memorable one from 1985, the Reference 3919. Aside from the pocket watch layout with small seconds at 6 o’clock courtesy the calibre 215 PS, and the printed black Roman numerals contrasted against the stark white lacquered dial with a porcelain-like finish, it was the signature “Clous de Paris” hobnail guilloché on the bezel that was the show stopping feature. 

Produced for over 20 years, this was a watch that was well respected and loved by Patek Philippe fans, but it had fallen out of favour in modern times due to the diminutive size of the watch at 33.5mm.

This is where the new Calatrava Ref 6119 comes in. 

Enlarged to a modern 39mm, the watch features the same signature “Clous de Paris” hobnail guilloché on the bezel, although with a wider chamfered profile in the newer watch. Also, instead of printed Roman numerals on the dial, the new Ref 6119 now comes with applied and faceted “obus” hour markers in gold. 

The most interesting thing about this watch however is the movement that it comes with, the manual winding Calibre 30-255PS, offering a useful 65 hours of power reserve and hacking seconds. Furthermore, it was conceived with a particularly unique mandate given by Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, to his development team. 

Even though the movement could be much bigger than the Calibre 215 PS from the Ref 3919 in order to fit a larger barrel, it had to retain the same thickness of 2.5mm in order to keep the same slender propositions in the wrist. The challenge therefore, in the new movement, was that not only would the parts be bigger, they had to be proportionally thinner – a big ask given the 21.65mm diameter of the older Calibre 215PS, versus the 30.4mm of the new Calibre 30-255PS.

In the end, even though it was found that a single barrel was enough to provide the target 65 hour power reserve, it was determined that the aesthetics of a single barrel in the movement were not satisfactory, and so the decision was made to use double barrels in parallel instead, balancing out the elements of the calibre in a more attractive arrangement.

This is a well known tendency of the brand, to make things that not only have to function well, but also to adhere to the highest standards of aesthetic excellences. This technical decision might mean that there is a possibility of future variants of this movement coming with an even longer power reserve. For now however, what Patek Philippe has offered with this new watch is enough in their judgement, and if Patek Philippe says so, I’m fine with it. 

The Calatrava 6119 is an offering, that I can see collectors being drawn to emotionally, with the warm, fuzzy feelings of remembering the beloved Ref 3919, definitely making an appearance in the decision making process, which will be further helped along for the modern era, by a larger 39mm size and the functional improvements such as the 65 hour power reserve and hacking seconds.

The new Calatrava Ref 6119 ia offered in two variations – the first, in rose gold with silvery grained dial and applied hour markers and hands in rose gold, and the second, in white gold with a charcoal grey dial with vertical satin finish, with snailed subsidiary seconds dial, as well as applied hour markers and hands in white gold. 

Ref 5236P Perpetual Calendar with in-line indication. 

The new Ref 5623P Perpetual Calendar might not look like much from the dial, but it has a unique feature that you would notice immediately if you were generally familiar with Perpetual Calendars generally, and not just those from Patek Philippe. 

The in-line indication of the Day, Date and Month below the Patek Philippe Logo and the 12 o’clock marker is large, clear and logical enough, and its inspiration came from a particular pocket watch from the Patek Philippe museum in Geneva that was made for the American market, with an inline indication of the date in the order of the Month, Date and Day. 

This was the watch that was the inspiration for the new Ref 5236P Perpetual Calendar, but upon studying the possibility of recreating it, a problem was quickly realized. Whereas the 46mm diameter of the original pocket watch was large enough to accommodate a single date wheel with all 31 dates on it, it would not work in a wrist-watch sized at 41.3mm.

The solution then was first have the date formatted in the European style, with Day first, then Date and then Month, and then have each of the date numerals broken up into separate rings of Date numeral 10’s and Date numeral 1’s, so that it could all fit into a wristwatch case. 

The under-dial works of the Ref 5623P Perpetual Calendar shows how this was done, and if you’re familiar with the layout of other perpetual calendars, you’ll know that this has not been done before elsewhere. 

The indications are all on the same level or “coplanar”  because the Day disc sits inside the Date 10’s numerals disc, and the Date 1’s numeral disc sits inside the Month disc, with each disc moving inside the other via a ceramic ball-bearing system. This layout saves space for all the required indications to be placed together and shown as a single line on the dial.

The customized module containing these innovations sits atop the calibre 31-260PSQL micro rotor movement. Also, the dial has a day/night indicator 8 o’clock, (which helps in the setting of the perpetual calendar), and a leap year indicator at the 4 o’clock position (with the “4” numeral in red to indicate the leap year).

The new Ref 5236P-001 Perpetual Calendar comes offered in a 41.3mm wide and 11.07 mm thick platinum case (with the trademark single diamond between the lower lugs), and has a blue dial with a black gradation to the periphery which is adorned with a vertical satin finish, and then topped with applied hour markers and baton hands in white gold.

Suffice to say, it would take a longer article than this to explain the intricacies of how this system functions including the specific patented portions of it that show the innovation it contains. What is clear however is that this new watch shows that Patek Philippe have really been working hard to extend their already formidable legacy in the genre of Perpetual Calendars, of which they were the first to pioneer in a wristwatch in 1925. 

With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

Everything moves a little slowly these days and with the world still under the fog of the COVID-19 pandemic that has no clear end in sight as of today, it’s worth moving a little more slowly and cautiously, since nothing can be set in stone. So if you read my points below and don’t know the context of what I’m saying, go to the press release at the end to get filled in.

The first thing to note is the surprising speed at which the news of change has come, a mere two months after it all went down with the departure of the five anchor brands from Hall 1 at Baselworld.

The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is finally dead

Certainly, this is a stark contrast to the glacially slow pace of change that characterised the management of Baselworld by the MCH Group previously that resulted in their near death experience this year. Though as ever there is nothing like being at death’s door to get the ultimate kick up the pants to do something right.

Following on from the recent injection of funds via an investment by James Murdoch, son of Rupert Murdoch, the MCH Group might just have gotten a lifeline and it’s up to the new reorganised company to see how much they can reclaim their lost reputation.

The new name – HourUniverse –

Ok, so I’m not too keen on the name. First of all, like its predecessor name “Baselworld”, it is a compound word. For the first half of the name, instead of a place – “Basel”, it is a measure of time instead – “Hour”. Also, instead of “World”, it is now “Universe”.

A few things about this. I can understand why removing the word “Basel” from the name might be good, since it’s a decisive move to distance themselves from the old “Baselworld”. If that’s the motivation, I can stand by it, even if everyone will still have to go to Basel to attend HourUniverse.

But why “Hour”? I think that because it has something to do with horology and because it’s a homophone (that sounds the same but with a different meaning) with “Our”. So there is implied in this choice, a spirit of inclusion of togetherness.

It’s a little lame to be honest, but if “HourUniverse” turns out to be “(H)ours”, (meaning all us watch industry stakeholders such as the brands, the retailers, the press and collectors) then maybe it will be alright.

As for the second part. We all know that the Miss Universe beauty pageant still takes place on Earth with no aliens taking part, so the words are effectively synonyms in this context, with perhaps a greater ambition implied in the new name. It’s not especially creative, but fine.

The extended eco-system – A new digital platform –

As the owner of an online watch media platform, I know that it is not easy to produce quality content consistently. Quite a few watch media websites already do a good job as it is, along with their associated social media platforms such as Instagram and Facebook. In this context, I find it hard to believe that HourUniverse will be able to pivot successfully to producing content as good as, or even to start a community based digital platform that will gain traction.

Of course, I could be wrong and if the MCH Group is sufficiently motivated to do this, they will throw good money in this direction to make it happen.

So what this means is that whether it will work will depend on how well it is done. Essentially, it’s a wait and see type situation there, but I’m betting that I will be underwhelmed. Prove me wrong HourUniverse!

The Yearly Meeting – Baselworld with a new lick of paint

This is basically the new Baselworld event that will draw people from all over the world to see the new watches and to meet up. It helps that next year’s HourUniverse event is now aligned with Watches and Wonders 2021 in April, instead of the botched decision to postpone Baselworld 2020 to January 2021, a significant factor in causing the anchor brands to leave.

But then, with the anchor tenants already gone and having already committed to starting a new trade show, the question is if there is enough in the new HourUniverse to come back. It’s going to be difficult to reverse a decision like this, especially when it was made after serious consideration. And that’s not even counting the pain of the economic downturn this year, as well as the fact that the pandemic is still ongoing, with no end in sight.

Any plans for a physical event can only be tentative at this point, and no one will rush to invert the status quo already established, especially when the MCH Group are in the process of proving themselves again. If there’s anything I know about watch brands, they like to know that the foundation of their potential partners are solid before committing.

It also begs the question of what the new trade show format instigated by Rolex and friends will be like, since the mandate for it was stated as being a for the good of the Swiss watch industry. That might mean that it will be created for all brands rather than a few, and if it is attractive enough for the smaller brands, there might not be enough left over to populate the HourUniverse next year.

It seems then that there will be quite a bit of backroom dealing and negotiation that will take place among the top management of all the stakeholders involved, and there is really no way to know how it will all play out.

More details will be released come August and I think that everyone will be interested in what they will be. I’m most certainly going to stay tuned to that.

—————————————————————————————-

Press release
Basel, 23 July 2020
MCH is creating a new concept for a global platform for the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries: HOURUNIVERSE.

Two months to listen, analyse, identify; and create. An innovative platform to meet today’s needs. To unite and support a whole community that wants to regroup, make a new start and is receptive to change.

Open, modern, experimental, inclusive, user-friendly, interconnected, the MCH teams have put all their expertise and the feedback and input from customers and other stakeholders into giving birth to a new platform concept.

An extended ecosystem

Live and virtual, active all year round, benefiting from the latest technologies for content, and for networking, the new platform is dedicated to players in the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries, but not exclusively.

The new concept is a B2B2C meeting point that places the customer at the heart of its focus, reversing the order of the past. The entire platform is thought out and designed around the customer. This applies to all players of the distribution chain, traditional and online retailers, including those of the CPO (certified Pre-Owned).

Flanking them, the platform will build an extended ecosystem with watch, jewellery and gemstone brands, developers of new solutions in distribution, marketing and points of sale, and other players of the industry. A global, varied, interconnected, unified world.

A 365 platform, with an annual live meeting

Named HOURUNIVERSE, the platform will be digitally active throughout the year and will host an annual live show.

A community platform that creates bridges between buyers and sellers and all the players in the industry, it is also a place that encourages exchanges, information-sharing, content creation, reflection through talks and conferences that also provide visibility for brands and their products.

In April 2021, the community will meet at HOURUNIVERSE in Basel, Switzerland. The show will be aligned with the watchmaking events in Geneva, in the best interests of the international community which will only have to travel to Switzerland once a year.

The show will reinforce contacts thanks to new tools, the creation of content, a maximum of Touch & Feel experiences, as well as moments of conviviality, networking and fully integrated events. Along with this new customer oriented approach, a new competitive hospitality concept will also be an integral part of the packages proposed, and those associated players of Basel
life will not be exempt from this involvement.

The detailed concept of HOURUNIVERSE will be unveiled late August in combination with the start of marketing. HOURUNIVERSE: IT’S WE TIME!

A new Calatrava for a new manufacture 

In any normal year at Baselworld, these particular watches would be among the highlights that would be taking up the lion’s share of collector attention. This year however, with the ongoing pandemic situation that we are all having to get used to, the news for this release came suddenly via a digital press release, and thankfully quite quickly after that, I got to see and photograph two out of the three models as they were made available in Singapore.

If you’re a Patek Philippe collector of the highest order, you’ll be glad to know that there is something in the three watches that will pique your interest since they contain basically the signature complications of the maison.

The three models are: 1) The new Ref. 5303, the first Patek Philippe minute repeater that presents the striking mechanism on the dial side and with tourbillon, 2) A new Ref. 5370 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a blue Grand Feu enamel dial, and 3) The signature 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph available for the first time in yellow gold.

5303R- Minute Repeater Tourbillon

The 5303R-001 is a watch that we’ve seen before since it was first launched as a 12 piece limited edition at the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019” that Patek Philippe held at the Marina Bay Sands Theatre in Singapore last year. While that first version had red accents, with stars on the minute track, a red seconds hand and a special printed caseback to commemorate the special exhibition, this new one that is launched this year is presented as part of the regular collection, differs by having a black hour circle with minute markers printed in white and golden powdered dots.

The 5303R was significant for having the minute repeater gong and hammers visible on the dial side (a first for Patek Philippe), and also for good measure, the rear of the tourbillon. What this meant was that the entire raison d’etre of the watch was visible for all to see and enjoy without the owner taking the watch off. Effectively, because of the view of the complications, there is no dial, but why would you want one in any case?

A Rough Guide to the Watch Art Grand Exhibition by Patek Philippe 

The following pictures show the earlier Singapore edition, since the new black accented version as seen in the press picture above was not available for photography considering how limited, by production the new watch will be.

Patek Philippe were however able to make the Singapore edition available for photography, by the generosity of its lucky owner, so at least you can see the live pictures below and imagine how the new watch looks, albeit with subtle differences.

It’s the same Caliber R TO 27 PS movement here, and the lavishly decorated white gold minute repeater slide, engraved with a leaf pattern.Similarly the front golden movement plates of the watch are decorated with Geneva striping to enhance the steel parts of the movement.And the flourishes continue in the case-back view, with the noticeable white gold beveled rim surrounding the movement.

5370P Split Seconds Chronograph

The 5370P was a watch we first saw in 2015, with that first version coming with a deep black enamel dial. That model has since been discontinued, and in its place to attract the affections of collectors, is this new one with a Grand Feu enamel blue dial with a glossy finish.The best thing about a split seconds chronograph is the wonderful view of the movement, which is an order of magnitude more complicated than a standard chronograph, and so there are more elements to enjoy. Here in the manually wound CHR 29-535 PS caliber, we see the column wheels and horizontal clutch. Also one of the nice refinements that Patek Philippe have with this movement is the instantaneous minutes in the 30 minute counter, and can enjoy the satisfying jump of the minute hand to the next elapsed minute, something that only a high end chronograph like this can offer.The interesting thing about the layout of the 5370P as a split seconds chronograph is that the start and stop pusher of the split seconds function is integrated into the crown. This helps to keep the looks tidy, and avoids having to have this pusher on the other side of the case, as is typically with other split seconds chronograph watches.The new blue dial comes decorated with white gold applied Breguet numerals, and a tachymeter scale and counters in white, for good contrast.Furthermore, as with all platinum cased watches from Patek Philippe, the new (and older) 5370P comes with a diamond mounted between the lugs at 6 o’clock.Completing the look is the concave bezel, and mostly polished case, contrasted with satin polished recesses in the flanks.

5270J Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

The Chronograph Perpetual Calendar can rightly be seen to be the apex model of Patek Philippe, if we leave aside the minute repeater and tourbillon watches. This is a category that has had a long history with the brand, and all the models in its evolution over the years have become very collectible and desired.In the modern era, the current generation of the Chronograph Perpetual Calendar was first seen in the 5270G in white gold first in 2011. It was significant at the time for being the first in-house manufacture made Patek Philippe chronograph movement with perpetual calendar, and marked the end of the brand’s reliance on the Nouvelle Lemania-based caliber 27-70 CH that had been in use since 1986.

The design of the Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is stately and iconic for Patek Philippe, with the day, month, and day/might indications in apertures, and hand displayed date at 6 o’clock.

So what’s new about the latest version? Well, the new variant, the 5270J comes for the first time, in a yellow gold case. Previous incarnations have seen rose gold, platinum and white gold being used, but never yellow gold. To go with the more classically toned precious metal, the watch is matched with an opaline dial, which gives this new variant a more genteel demeanour overall.

Now Plan-les-Ouates is an industrial suburb in Geneva that is home to a number of high profile watch brands such as Frédérique Constant/Alpina, Harry Winston, Piaget, Ralph Lauren Watches & Jewelry, Rolex, Vacheron Constantin and of course, Patek Philippe. In fact, Patek Philippe was the first brand to be established there in 1996.

At the time, the plan was to unite all the disparate workshops around Geneva and unite them into one building. Over time however, space became tight, and with the increased demand for watches with rare handicrafts as well as complicated models accounting for half of the brand’s production, it became necessary for more working space overall, not just for production and storage of more parts, but also for training. Patek Philippe currently maintains an annual production capacity of 62,000 watches, and while some might say the increased space is for the purpose of increasing this number, it looks instead that it is for devoting greater resources to the larger number by proportion, of the brand’s output, of the complicated and time intensive to produce watches that watch collectors worldwide are demanding.  Some interesting features of the new building: The ground floor will be dedicated to the production and finishing of movement parts; the second floor will be for machining, polishing and assembly of exterior parts for current watches, the restoration of antique timepieces (thanks to the brand’s long history), and the production of spare parts for inventory. The third floor will house production-related departments such as Research & Development (responsible for the Patek Philippe Advanced Research watches), an haute horlogerie department, and a new unit for prototyping. The fourth floor is an interesting one, as it will be devoted to ateliers dedicated to the rare handcrafts skills that Patek Philippe has actively promoted in their watches (manual engraving, enameling, guilloching, wood micro marquetry, etc.) Here, masters of their craft will not only have adequate space to do their work, but can also pass on their skills to others via training rooms that are also on the same floor. 

The fifth and highest floor will house a penthouse restaurant for 880 guests as well as four VIP lounges, all with a fantastic panoramic view of the landscape and the nearby mountains. 

Lastly for the convenience of staff and visitors, the four subterranean basement floors will contain all building technology installations as well as a parking facility for a total of 635 vehicles.

The watch – Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001

The Calatrava collection has always been the quintessential expression of a simple watch from Patek Philippe Though its thunder has been stolen in recent times by the more sports oriented Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, it still remains a strong and vital pillar of the brand. Introduced in 1932, shortly after the Stern family acquired the brand, the first model, Ref. 96 has gone on to become an icon, spawning a collection of cherished watches that have served their owners faithfully. This new watch, the Ref. 6007A-001 comes across as a more modern incarnation of the traditional Patek Philppe Calatrava with a more sports oriented and graphically inspired look. Coming in stainless steel, a popular and relatively rare material for Patek Philippe, the watch is a riot of blue, coming with a blue dial and a blue strap. Yet because the dial comes in a variety of finishes and dial elements, and there is enough visual interest to offset the potential monochromatic presentation if it were simpler. 

White elements are contrasted against the grey-blue hue of the background, starting with the railway track scale of the hour circle with triangular markers, and the subtle circular satin finish that contrasts visibly against the white dial imprints as well as the applied numerals and the white-lacquered hands in white gold with luminous coatings.The centre of the dial is interesting since it contains a carbon fibre style texture that Patek Philippe says is “an enigmatic footnote referring to the world of high-tech”, perhaps referring to the innovations that this traditional brand has nonetheless pioneered throughout the history of watchmaking. The hands as well, pierced baton hands for the hours and minutes in white with lume, recall the Ref. 6006 Calatrava, make a strong statement that in the light, as well as in the dark. Why? This is Calatrava that can be read in the dark thanks to these hands as well as the lume that fills the applied Arabic numerals. This is a move that definitely further the credentials of the watch as a modern Calatrava made for our current and future generation. The watch runs the self-winding caliber 324 SC with date, and is visible through the sapphire caseback. This is decorated with the text “New Manufacture” above the Calatrava cross and the year “2019”, when the building was completed. 

Lastly, a word on the blue strap with white seams. While it might look like textile, it is instead delicately embossed to look that way. It is in fact made of calfskin, and colour coordinated to match the carbon fibre pattern on the dial centre. Limited to 1000 pieces.

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