Ultra thin watchmaking can be considered by connoisseurs as an underrated achievement for brands, as a complication can be described by what the watch displays other than telling the time – which apparently presents nothing novel to many casual observers. However, to make a watch as thin as possible, numerous tolerances are broken, and advances in materials science have to be made in order to make it not only functional, but wearable as well. In this space, Piaget have made significant in-roads to make some of the thinnest watches in production today, and have continued to do so since 1957. 

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept began its life in 2018 as its namesake suggests – a concept watch, demonstrating novel construction techniques to achieve a thinness of 2mm. The case itself is used to mount the components of the watch, as demonstrated in the 910P. This essentially removes 3 parts from the watch, the caseback, the mainplate of the movement and the case itself. An innovative cobalt alloy is also used as the case and mainplate of the watch due to its rigidity (precious metals proved much too malleable to be used in an endeavour such as this).

The new Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon retains its predecessor’s thinness of 2mm but, as its name suggests, incorporates a tourbillon within its construction – specifically, the flying tourbillon.

In order to achieve this feat, around 90% of the components of the original Altiplano Ultimate Concept had to be redesigned to fit the flying tourbillon into the case – in particular, the tourbillon cage fits into a height of 1.49mm, and is set into the case through a ball bearing system made of titanium and steel.

There was now the problem of power consumption – tourbillons generally consume about 25% more power than a watch with a traditional regulator. The engineers and watchmakers at Piaget devised a two-pronged solution through the mainspring and the pivots of the wheels – the mainspring was devised to be thicker in some areas to generate more power, whilst the pivots do not use traditional jewels, but ball bearings, which reduces friction and increases efficiency. Whilst the wheels are decorated, great care must be taken to ensure that these operations do not deform the part – working to a tolerance of 2 microns is an extreme challenge not to damage anything during the decoration of the parts. 

Like its predecessor, the watch case (and indeed the mainplate of the movement) is made of a cobalt alloy for its strength – in the case of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, it is treated with a deep blue colour. The crown is integrated into the case, and is manipulated through the use of a special stylus that has a gear reduction and torque control system built into it, which protects one of the more vulnerable parts of an ultra-thin watch like this. 

As thin a coin, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is a testament to the extremes that the watch industry is able to achieve. Truly living up to the Piaget motto, this watch has definitively done better by incorporating the movement of the tourbillon into this watch. What seems like a simple endeavour is actually one of the most complex in terms of the overall manufacturing challenges encountered by Piaget. Working at tolerances of up to 2 microns, this watch has pushed the boundaries of what the factory is capable of, and what others should be aspiring to.

Technical Specifications

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Ref. G0A4951

Diameter: 41.5 mm
Height: 2 mm
Material: Cobalt alloy
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Manual winding, in-set crown in case
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon cage 
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Strap: Calf leather

The new Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin comes in a fetching emerald green dial with a traditional perpetual calendar layout with four different indications at the cardinal points. Starting with the day of the week indicator at 9 o’clock, then to the month and leap year indicator at 12 o’clock, then to the date of the month indicator at 3 o’clock, and finally, a very subtle and discretely done moon-phase at 6 o’clock.

It’s all symmetrical and very nicely done, and the bluish green dial colour is nicely set against the horizontal guilloché pattern on the dial. Despite the many indications taking up the majority of the real estate on the dial, the legibility is good because the hands are relatively thick, and filled with a generous amount of lume, just like the indices. Though I haven’t tested this myself, it would seem that this watch will be excellent as a daily driver, being visible at all hours of the day or night.

The calibre that runs this watch is the new 1255P ultra-thin movement, which is a combination of Piaget’s own pre-existing 2.35mm thick 1200P ultra-thin calibre with micro-rotor and a perpetual calendar module on top. The result is that the new watch comes with a case thickness of 8.65mm which is pretty impressive for a perpetual calendar, although par for the course for a brand like Piaget.

On the wrist, the watch sits well due to its ultra thin profile which is in the goldilocks zone in my opinion, of having enough mass to feel like a proper watch, but not being so thin that it feels strange. The thinness makes the 42mm wide case wear smaller than the specifications suggest, which is nice. Furthermore the watch comes with Piaget’s new one push easy change bracelet, with an additional dial matching green rubber strap with a similar easy change system in the box that you can use when you have more sporty intentions.

At a quoted price at press time of 49,800 Euro, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin comes in somewhat at the middle of the pack in relation to other high horology brands offering perpetual calendar watches. Given the stature of the brand, and the overall package that the watch is – being an ultra thin perpetual calendar in stainless steel – it does represent good value in this segment. For this reason, this new watch is a good first step in this direction, and accords well with the savoir-faire of the brand in high horology. Hopefully there will be more complicated offerings in this collection coming down the line.

Technical Specifications – Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Reference: GOA48005

Dimensions: 42mm wide x 8 65mm thick

Case and bracelet: Ultra thin stainless Steel case and bracelet with additional green interchangeable rubber strap with folding buckle, sapphire case back

Calibre: Manufacture self-winding mechanical 1255P, 4mm thick

Frequency: 21,600 vph

Functions: Perpetual Calendar, Moonphase, Hours and Minutes

Power Reserve: 42 hours

Water resistance: 30 metres

Price: 49,800 Euro

In order to remain fresh and relevant though, one area in which the watch industry enjoys experimentation is through different dial colours – we have often seen blue, grey and tones of brown make their debuts throughout the years. In the last two years however, we have seen a verdant explosion of green dials, not only in models focused for more casual wear, but also permeating through classically designed watches as well. In 2021, we have seen this trend persist through the releases at the recent Watches and Wonders show in Geneva – here we will explore some of the best green watches that have been released this year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green

The Art Deco legend from La Grande Maison receives the green treatment this year, with a sunburst finishing radiating from the centre of its dial that brings subtle changes to its appearance, depending on the way the light hits it. Everything else is classic Reverso, including a small seconds indicator, Dauphine hands and the emblematic Art Deco gadroons at the top and bottom of its swivelling case. The reverse side is a blank canvas – for the owner to leave clean as a reminder of its Polo origins, or for personalisation (models of the past are renowned for having their owner’s initials engraved on the reverse side). The watch is mounted on a green calf-skin strap in the signature Casa Fagliano style with the stitched fold close to the lugs, and powering the watch is the in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2 – a manually wound shaped movement that features in much of the Reverso line.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 with Green Dial

With the “it” watch of the last few years being discontinued, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711 has its last hurrah with the 5711/1A-014, featuring a subtle olive green dial to be produced for the year of 2021 only. The rest remains familiar – its Gerald Genta design featuring a case and bracelet that has a strong interplay between its satin brushed and polished elements, requiring 55 steps in the process of its finissage. It is a watch that has remained bold in its execution since 1976, with its porthole-inspired design embodying a casual elegance that is virtually unmatched by other watches of a similar ilk. Housed within the stainless steel case is an improved version of Patek Philippe’s reliable Calibre 324 S C – the 26-330 S C upgrades this movement with an improved winding system and hacking seconds. All in all, a fitting send off for the legendary Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A, something that is sure to have collectors champing at the bit to get their hands on one.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

For what was originally meant to be a tribute to tool watches of yore, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight welcomes a precious metal version in 18K Yellow Gold with a green dial in 2021. Sporting an entirely brushed finish, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K manages to make this usually loud material into something rather understated, and even suggests a form of utilitarian toughness. The green of this dial is also slightly muted, whilst simultaneously complementing the yellow gold case with its gilt markers and Snowflake hands. It may not make sense at first, but once you take a deeper dive with the watch, there is an intangible understanding of the method behind the madness. Housed within the 200m water resistant case is the Tudor in-house Calibre MT5400, that is visible behind a sapphire crystal caseback – a rarity amongst watches from Tudor.

Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial

Evoking a lush green tropical forest, the Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial brings the essence of the wild to the wrist. This watch exhibits Rolex’s commitment to dial-making, showing off the Palm Motif in two shades of green, on an olive green background. Whilst this may sound like the colours would blend into each other, the reality is that the shades are distinctive enough for the Palm Motif to be made out, even at just a glance. This variant was presented to us in an Oystersteel case with domed bezel, mounted on an Oyster bracelet. Housed within the 36mm case is the Rolex Calibre 3235, with additions such as the Chronergy escapement that aids with movement efficiency and enabling a 70 hour power reserve, as well as holding the Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification –  guaranteeing timekeeping thresholds of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel PAM01356, Verde Smeraldo

A green dial for an environmentally friendly watch – fitting for a watch featuring the debut of Panerai’s eSteel. The case of the Luminor Marina eSteel contains 89 grams of recycled steel, which, out of the 152.4 grams of the total weight of the watch, comprises 58.4% of the total weight. This includes the trademark crown-protection system that is the signature element of the Panerai Luminor line. This development is remarkable, because it signifies the arrival of Panerai into sustainable watch manufacturing, whereas many other watch manufactures will use virgin  material for the construction of their watches. This notion of sustainability goes right down to the strap and buckle – the strap being crafted out of recycled textiles, and the buckle being hewn from the same eSteel as the watch case. Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre P.9010, automatically wound with 3 days of power reserve. The Verde Smeraldo version, PAM01356, is a boutique and eCommerce exclusive – if you want one of the greenest watches out there (literally and figuratively), best to talk to Panerai as soon as you can.

Cartier Tank Must

Bringing back an aesthetic of the 80s back into the present-day, the new Cartier Tank Must features a set of three monochromatic colours that echo the spirit of the original Tank Must models of the late 70s and early 80s. In particular, a Green dial version is the latest addition to this series, having never before been offered in the Must collection of yore. A vibrant addition to the series, the green is certainly vibrant and eye-catching. The watches feature a dial with no markings – freeing itself from traditional watchmaking design cues, and creating a clean slate of colour. Housed in a stainless steel case, the Tank Must is powered by a Quartz movement, and mounted on a matching strap respective to its dial colour.

Montblanc Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – Lime Gold

Minerva is undoubtedly the unsung hero of Montblanc, creating some of the finest watches that the industry has to offer. For 2021, the brand introduces a slight variation of green to their Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – a case crafted of their exclusive material, Lime Gold. An 18K alloy of Gold (750 parts/1000), Silver (238 parts/1000) and Iron (12 parts/1000), this combination gives a distinctive greenish hue to what is normally a yellow metal. The intended effect is to evoke a sense of vintage aesthetics through its colour – combined with the Cathedral hands, green numerals and the gold coloured dial, the watch certainly evokes the sense that it is from another era. This combined with the colimacon (snail) tachymetre scale, further reinforces the old-world feel of this watch. When the watch is turned over and viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, we see the gorgeous Minerva Calibre MB M16.31 – traditionally hand finished with bridges crafted of German Silver that has been coated with 18k gold. A manually-wound, monopusher split-second chronograph movement, the watch contains two column wheels to control the chronograph and its ingenious split second mechanism.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 – Green Dial

The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is traditionally a design that is conservative, with a black dial echoing the original “Mark” series wrist watches first issued to the RAF in the late 40s and 50s. In recent times, however, we have seen blue and brown dials, paying tribute to Le Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint Exupery respectively. For Watches and Wonders 2021, we see an unusual addition to this line, a green dial version of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 in regular production. Appearing as a rich, dark green, it almost resembles British Racing Green in its tones – the sunburst finishing on the dial definitely helps with this. This new model also features the brand’s EasX-CHANGE system, that enables quick strap changes between bracelet and leather options. Housed within the watch is the in-house Calibre 69385 movement, an Automatic Chronograph movement visible from its sapphire crystal caseback.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer – Green Dial Titanium

The Aquaracer, is a favourite first watch for many people who like watches (certainly in Australia), and this year, it has been given a facelift and an upgrade, particularly in the materials department. Most notably, the green version of this watch now features a titanium case and bracelet, bringing lightness and comfort to this model, in addition to its toughness and high water resistance. The horizontal ridges of the previous models are retained, whilst the ceramic bezel now features a sunburst brushing with a yellow triangle at 12. The bracelet clasp also receives an upgrade, now equipped with a fine adjustment system that is operational even whilst the watch is on the wrist. Housed within the titanium case is the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Automatic, featuring the date at 6 o’clock.

Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint

Bold and contemporary with its choice of colour, the Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked is a mint green number with a DLC coated case. Coming in either 38mm or 42mm case sizes, the brand’s signature Piccadilly case is modernised to enable a better fit on the wrist by integrating the strap closer to the case itself. This duality of the anachronistic, yet modern case lends itself to the movement that hosts the audacious choices of colour. The Calibre SMA02 incorporates darkened bridges on the dial side, as well as a mint green backdrop that accentuates these structures. In addition, the subdials at 1:30 and 9:00 (for the sub-seconds and the dual time respectively), feature mint green accents for an extra colour pop. The movement is also wound through a micro-rotor, and also features a retrograde date underneath the seconds subdial.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes aux Fees Edition

Coming in at only 2mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept remains the thinnest mechanical watch in the world – to honour the place where Piaget continues to further the art of ultra-thin, the brand unveils the Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes Aux Fees Edition, with green integrated components that echo the forests and green fields that surround the manufacture. This watch began its journey in 2018 as a true concept watch, and it was unknown to the public whether this would become a production piece. In 2020, a production version was realised, officially making it the thinnest mechanical watch in regular production. The case, mainplate and bezel is all one piece, and is machined out of a cobalt alloy for rigidity. All of the movement components are placed into the case to reduce its case height to the extremes, and even the crown is rectangular and telescopic to reduce the overall thickness of the watch.

Green on watches is a colour that, when done right, can be incredibly wearable and complementary to many wardrobes. In addition, some of these watches with exceptional colour hold exceptional movements, as seen in some of the examples above. We at ISOCHRONO believe that there is no doubt that green is here to stay, being a welcome addition to many watch collections.

With the global shift to casual chic fashion and streetwear, the luxury sports watch is alive and well in 2021. This year, Piaget evolves their Polo collection with the Piaget Polo Skeleton – a watch that combines the stainless steel sports watch with one of their core competencies: ultra-thin skeletonised movements.

Sport watches combined with High Horology is a little bit of an oxymoron in the world of watches – traditionally being very much polar opposites. However, it can be said that from the 70s onwards, we saw the beginnings of this division between sports watches and luxury watches being blurred with the concept of the stainless steel luxury sports watch – for those who may want their watches whilst on their yacht in Monaco, rather than a utility for survival to reach the summit of the Matterhorn. Over the past few decades as our lifestyles have evolved, the watch industry has seen the practicality of the stainless steel sports watch, and introduced fine watchmaking concepts to these collections. 

The Piaget Polo Skeleton combines the brand’s expertise in fine calibres with their Polo line of watches – a collection dating back to 1979 that was the maison’s contemporary lifestyle watch. Compared to the currently available Polo watches, the new Polo Skeleton has a much slimmer case profile – measuring 6.5mm in height, which is around 30% thinner. Even with this reduction in case height, the recognisable cushion-shaped opening of the dial residing inside a rounded bezel is still present, giving the Polo Skeleton its signature play on geometry for the wrist.

Its stainless steel case is 42mm in diameter, and comes on a bracelet with H-shaped links. This bracelet displays alternate polished and horizontal brushed links, and for this watch, Piaget has developed a special interchanging system via two levers located where the bracelet meets the case. Each watch comes with an interchangeable alligator leather strap, enabling this watch to dress-up or dress-down depending on the occasion and the mood of the wearer. The Polo Skeleton is available in two colours – Blue and Grey, and what is remarkable is that the movement is truly what gives the watch its character.

The 1200S remains to this day, one of the thinnest skeletonised movements in regular production in the watchmaking industry and echoes Piaget’s heritage of the ultra thin 12P movement released in 1960. The movement housed within the Polo Skeleton forms the centrepiece of the watch – created at Piaget’s workshops in La Cotes Aux Fees, its plates and bridges coated accordingly to the colour.

In particular, the blue is a new tone for this movement, achieved by Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD). The 1200S movement displays swooping lines in the shape of its bridges and in the lines of chamfering that accentuate the shape of its components. It is also a mesmerising view into the world of watchmaking mechanics, as the skeletonisation exposes much of the construction of the movement. In keeping with the tradition of the historical 12P calibre, the movement is wound through a micro-rotor that has been executed in platinum, and features the Piaget coat of arms on it – a pertinent reminder of the maison’s extensive heritage in the field of fine watchmaking. This legacy of the ultra-thin was most commonly seen in the Altiplano range, and is now continued in contemporary form in the Polo Skeleton.

The Piaget Polo collection arrived in the middle of 2016, just when the craze for stainless steel sports watches on bracelets (as well as integrated case and bracelet designs) began. Enthusiasts may have derided this as unoriginal, as it was not originally designed during the 70s, but many other watches with a similar idea have received this unfair treatment as well. The Piaget Polo, then, is a complement to the brand’s much dressier and conservative Altiplano collection, with its casual and sporty design. There are other watches with a similar concept – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. The Royal Oak mentioned here does have the benefit of being the first of its kind, however, it is not really in the same league in terms of thinness, being around 3mm thicker than the Piaget. This leaves the Bulgari Octo Finissimo, its sharp, architectural lines and its ultra-thin, micro-rotor wound movement. Neither the Royal Oak, nor the Octo Finissimo feature interchangeable bracelets without tools – if versatility is what you need, and if you prefer something softer, more restrained and more “Genevan” in its approach to watch design, then there is something compelling in the Piaget Polo Skeleton, and its heritage in its pursuit of elegance and the ultra-thin.

The Piaget Polo Skeleton, then, is a truly remarkable watch – it is a shot fired by a brand to bring their fine watchmaking prowess that was traditionally featured in dress watches and into something in keeping with modern lifestyles. The combination of the steel sports watch and the overt display of such high-end watchmaking is objectively rare in this industry, and Piaget have certainly done the right thing in bringing attention to their ateliers in La Cotes Aux Fees (for watchmaking) and Plan les Ouates (for casemaking). The new Piaget Polo Skeleton is therefore, a watch that combines all of the competencies of the maison into one watch, and should prove to be a flag-bearer for Piaget in the years to come.

With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

It was a watch to get excited about, not only for its record breaking thinness, but also because it was Piaget retaking its crown as THE specialist brand in ultra thin watches. At that point the crown for the world’s thinnest mechanical watch had just been lost by Piaget with the Altiplano 900P at 3.65mm to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Squelette at 3.60mm.

And while we all love Jaeger-LeCoultre, it just would not do for Piaget, with a track record of ultra thin watches to not occupy the top spot in this specific genre.

The 2mm thick Altiplano Ultimate Concept was the watch that would decisively snatch the crown back since it would place the bar so high that it would be well nigh impossible for any other brand to catch up.

There was a problem though – even though the Altiplano Ultimate Concept was a watch that existed, it was only a concept piece that was not available to buy. Indeed, at the 2018 SIHH, most visitors were only able to view the piece in a display case, and even those who were in the privileged position of seeing it up close could only do so by handling the plastic protective case it was nestled in rather than the watch directly.

There was no reason given as to why this was so, but one could surmise that because the watch had been created as a result of a bunch of technologies that were still relatively new, it was probably not robust enough to handle the normal stresses of hordes of people trying it on. Not to mention that it was probably a one off prototype that had not been tested adequately enough.

Now however, the situation has changed, and two years later in 2020, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept is finally a watch that is available to buy.

There is no additional information on what Piaget did precisely to allow the watch to make it from being a delicate prototype to something that can be bought by customers, but I’m guessing that the intervening two years allowed a bunch of testing under varied conditions to be carried out, as was a better refinement of the ideas that the watch brought to bear in order to achieve its amazing thinness.

Just how thin in 2mm? Well, the typical Rolex Submariner is 13.0mm thick, which is already 6 times the thickness of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. A useful way to imagine it is to go to a Piaget boutique and try on the Altiplano 900P, which is 3.65mm. Now it’s not 2mm, but even at 3.65mm, it is a watch that just feels weird on the wrist since you barely feel it, even though your eyes plainly tell you that it is there.

With the Altiplano 900P as a reference then, you can just about imagine how the 2mm thick Altiplano Ultimate Concept will feel since it goes much further. Certainly, it is the kind of thinness that just strikes you as out of this world, and perhaps will make you gasp in amazement at just how a watch like this can even exist.

Plainly then, this is a watch that has to be touched and worn to be fully appreciated. Just based on pictures alone, it does look very futuristic but the full effect of what can be achieved here can only be understood in person.

How has this watch been achieved then? Well the first thing Piaget did was to use a cobalt based alloy which is 2.3 times stronger than gold, for the case, due to its rigidity and hardness. In a watch this thin, no flex of the case could be allowed since this would risk the movement stopping, which ruled out the use of 18k gold.

Then they did the same thing that they did with their other ultra thin watches such as the 900P in 2014 (3.65mm) & 910P in 2018 (4.3mm), making the case and movement plate one and the same.

What this means is that the parts of the watch such as the gear-train, balance wheel, mainspring, and all, are mounted on a movement plate which is essentially the case as well. You know how it is that a movement can be removed from the case in “normal” watches? Well, not the case (pun intended) here.

With these innovations as the foundation, more thinness was then achieved by having custom parts that were resized smaller. The wheels of a conventional watch for example, normally 0.2mm thick are 0.12mm in the Ultimate Concept. Similarly the sapphire crystal, normally 1mm thick in a standard watch, has been reduced in thickness by 80% down to a scarcely believable 0.2mm.

Add to this a mainspring barrel does away with a cover or drum that is mounted on a single ceramic ball bearing for 40 hours power reserve, as well as a flat telescopic crown that substitutes the conventional sliding pinion clutch and crown wheel for a single, “infinite screw”, that is connected to a patented ‘staggered’ stem.

For the time indications as well, instead of having a normal dial with two hands placed on top of a bridge, the watch features a dial that lies sunk into the movement, with the conventional hour hand replaced by a revolving indicator disc and a normal minute hand.

The sum of these innovations has resulted in a watch that contains 283 individual parts, about 100 more than a typical basic hand wound watch, and all produced at smaller sizes and tighter tolerances than before. Obviously, this also means that only the best artisans can hand decorate the minute parts of this watch. With the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, it’s not just ruining a nice finish that is at risk, but the total destruction of a part as it is being decorated.

Lastly, in order to elevate the specialness of owning the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, how about customising your own Altiplano Ultimate Concept? It’s a nice option being offered by Piaget, and one can select the colour of the bridge, the finish of the hands and the main plate and straps, which allows up to 10,000 permutations of your own individually “designed” watch.

All in all, the record for the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at 2mm with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept should stand for some time. After-all, the raison d’être for its creation was to be the ultimate in ultra-thin, and at the high bar that it currently rests, it will take quite a lot of effort for any competing brand to better what they have achieved.

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In the case of Piaget with the Year of the Rat, the brand has released an extraordinary watch that showcases one of the most revered and respected crafts that are seen in high end watchmaking – Grand Feu cloisonné enamel. Better yet, the artist in question who has created the dial is none other than enamel master, Anita Porchet. The Altiplano, Piaget’s most iconic watch is the backdrop for this artistic showcase and it comes with a case in white gold that holds the 2.1mm thick calibre 430P ultra thin hand-wound calibre, and a bezel set with 78 diamonds. 

The dial in, Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, features two rats looking in the same direction to the right of the dial, and its creation starts by the transfer of the design in the initial drawing to the surface of the dial with gold thread. This creates small partitions on the surface, (or closons) on which the enamel pigments are placed, and after that the enamel is fired multiple times in a kiln before being varnished to give the dial its ethereal glow. 

Definitely one of the standout pieces for this year and limited to 38 pieces at a price of SGD$99,500.