Let’s find out more.

ISOCHRONO: This is a project that only a watch guy would do? Are you one? Tell me about your journey.

You are right, I am one.

I remember vividly how I got into the hobby: I used to debate in secondary school and my teammate and I were preparing for a round. I noticed that he had a most handsome watch on his wrist and I asked to take a look. It was a Tag Heuer Formula One and the piece was dripping with sophistication. All I can say is that it was a revelation to me that so much craftsmanship and expertise could go into a wristwatch.

From then on I went deeper into the rabbit hole. I went through the “Vintage Sports Rolex Obsession” phase and I’d like to think my interest is more holistic now. I still have a soft spot for vintage sport Rolexes though and some of them remain amongst my grails (for instance the 6542 GMT Master and the Limoncello Paul Newman).

ISOCHRONO: What is the reason why you decided to paint vintage Rolex watches on the pouches?

It has to be noted that these are homages to the originals.

I had two primary inspirations. Firstly, the idea struck me as a fan of Namiki’s Maki-E fountain pens. The fact that the art wraps around something as unconventional (and uncooperative) as the barrel of a fountain pen amazes me, and the inspiration struck me that I could, in fact, paint on surfaces other than paper or canvas.

Secondly, I was inspired by Andy Warhol’s Brillo Boxes. That someone could have gone through all that trouble (commissioning wooden boxes, silk screening…) to recreate something was, should I say, an oblique inspiration. More directly, however, pop art in general was a big inspiration, what with the likes of Roy Lichtenstein and Jasper Johns—the sheer irony and humour behind the genre was a powerful motivator.

ISOCHRONO: Can you expand more on the idea of pop art in relation to the pouches?

I think pop art is mistakenly looked upon as making the mundane valuable. Granted, that is one important aspect, but the primary thrust of the movement and its attractiveness (at least to me) is in the irony of elevating the mundane. Except in this case I’m making something ridiculously out-of-reach accessible—so by extension their prices are, too, a statement in and of themselves.

ISOCHRONO: Why was it important for you to use original Rolex service pouches?

I don’t think they were “important”, they just fit within the perimeters of what I was trying to accomplish. The service pouches happened to be, firstly, the most convenient and readily accessible “canvas” on which to paint on. Secondly, having experience with them I know they are well-built and can take a beating.

Thirdly, I have a sort of personal attachment to them as I would always keep my watches in those little green RSC pouches while vacationing overseas (back when leisure travelling was safe of course).

ISOCHRONO: How do you choose what watch to paint?

I paint the watches I want the most. These are deliberately painted to be 1:1 scale to the original (with some room for creative license) so I can envision how it feels like to own one.

ISOCHRONO: What unique challenges do you face in painting the watches?

The geometry. One thing I appreciate much more in painting these watches is the geometry in watches—it hurts my back to think of the number of concentric circles I have to paint for a single watch. Moreover, the eye is least forgiving to an asymmetrical circle and so that adds an additional dimension of difficulty in my homages to the original designs.

ISOCHRONO: Are these pouches usable in daily life? Will the paint rub off?

Yes, they are definitely made for daily life. Let me explain.

Firstly, the pouches are rubbed down with a chemical solution to remove its factory varnish. This allows the paints to adhere more strongly to the surface. Secondly, the paints I use are specially formulated for use on leather. Thirdly, it is prudent to note that the natural grainy texture of the pouches inadvertently enables the paint to bond better. Lastly, after the design is completed, I seal it with several coats of an acrylic sealant.

All in all I’d say it’s pretty hardy.

ISOCHRONO: Are these for sale?

Yes they are.

ISOCHRONO: Where can I get them?

For the time being you can put your requests through ISOCHRONO. (Ed: Please send any inquiries to me at adi@isochrono.com)

In order to remain fresh and relevant though, one area in which the watch industry enjoys experimentation is through different dial colours – we have often seen blue, grey and tones of brown make their debuts throughout the years. In the last two years however, we have seen a verdant explosion of green dials, not only in models focused for more casual wear, but also permeating through classically designed watches as well. In 2021, we have seen this trend persist through the releases at the recent Watches and Wonders show in Geneva – here we will explore some of the best green watches that have been released this year.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green

The Art Deco legend from La Grande Maison receives the green treatment this year, with a sunburst finishing radiating from the centre of its dial that brings subtle changes to its appearance, depending on the way the light hits it. Everything else is classic Reverso, including a small seconds indicator, Dauphine hands and the emblematic Art Deco gadroons at the top and bottom of its swivelling case. The reverse side is a blank canvas – for the owner to leave clean as a reminder of its Polo origins, or for personalisation (models of the past are renowned for having their owner’s initials engraved on the reverse side). The watch is mounted on a green calf-skin strap in the signature Casa Fagliano style with the stitched fold close to the lugs, and powering the watch is the in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 822/2 – a manually wound shaped movement that features in much of the Reverso line.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 with Green Dial

With the “it” watch of the last few years being discontinued, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711 has its last hurrah with the 5711/1A-014, featuring a subtle olive green dial to be produced for the year of 2021 only. The rest remains familiar – its Gerald Genta design featuring a case and bracelet that has a strong interplay between its satin brushed and polished elements, requiring 55 steps in the process of its finissage. It is a watch that has remained bold in its execution since 1976, with its porthole-inspired design embodying a casual elegance that is virtually unmatched by other watches of a similar ilk. Housed within the stainless steel case is an improved version of Patek Philippe’s reliable Calibre 324 S C – the 26-330 S C upgrades this movement with an improved winding system and hacking seconds. All in all, a fitting send off for the legendary Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A, something that is sure to have collectors champing at the bit to get their hands on one.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

For what was originally meant to be a tribute to tool watches of yore, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight welcomes a precious metal version in 18K Yellow Gold with a green dial in 2021. Sporting an entirely brushed finish, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K manages to make this usually loud material into something rather understated, and even suggests a form of utilitarian toughness. The green of this dial is also slightly muted, whilst simultaneously complementing the yellow gold case with its gilt markers and Snowflake hands. It may not make sense at first, but once you take a deeper dive with the watch, there is an intangible understanding of the method behind the madness. Housed within the 200m water resistant case is the Tudor in-house Calibre MT5400, that is visible behind a sapphire crystal caseback – a rarity amongst watches from Tudor.

Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial

Evoking a lush green tropical forest, the Rolex Datejust 36 with Palm Motif Dial brings the essence of the wild to the wrist. This watch exhibits Rolex’s commitment to dial-making, showing off the Palm Motif in two shades of green, on an olive green background. Whilst this may sound like the colours would blend into each other, the reality is that the shades are distinctive enough for the Palm Motif to be made out, even at just a glance. This variant was presented to us in an Oystersteel case with domed bezel, mounted on an Oyster bracelet. Housed within the 36mm case is the Rolex Calibre 3235, with additions such as the Chronergy escapement that aids with movement efficiency and enabling a 70 hour power reserve, as well as holding the Rolex Superlative Chronometer certification –  guaranteeing timekeeping thresholds of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel PAM01356, Verde Smeraldo

A green dial for an environmentally friendly watch – fitting for a watch featuring the debut of Panerai’s eSteel. The case of the Luminor Marina eSteel contains 89 grams of recycled steel, which, out of the 152.4 grams of the total weight of the watch, comprises 58.4% of the total weight. This includes the trademark crown-protection system that is the signature element of the Panerai Luminor line. This development is remarkable, because it signifies the arrival of Panerai into sustainable watch manufacturing, whereas many other watch manufactures will use virgin  material for the construction of their watches. This notion of sustainability goes right down to the strap and buckle – the strap being crafted out of recycled textiles, and the buckle being hewn from the same eSteel as the watch case. Powering the watch is the in-house Calibre P.9010, automatically wound with 3 days of power reserve. The Verde Smeraldo version, PAM01356, is a boutique and eCommerce exclusive – if you want one of the greenest watches out there (literally and figuratively), best to talk to Panerai as soon as you can.

Cartier Tank Must

Bringing back an aesthetic of the 80s back into the present-day, the new Cartier Tank Must features a set of three monochromatic colours that echo the spirit of the original Tank Must models of the late 70s and early 80s. In particular, a Green dial version is the latest addition to this series, having never before been offered in the Must collection of yore. A vibrant addition to the series, the green is certainly vibrant and eye-catching. The watches feature a dial with no markings – freeing itself from traditional watchmaking design cues, and creating a clean slate of colour. Housed in a stainless steel case, the Tank Must is powered by a Quartz movement, and mounted on a matching strap respective to its dial colour.

Montblanc Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – Lime Gold

Minerva is undoubtedly the unsung hero of Montblanc, creating some of the finest watches that the industry has to offer. For 2021, the brand introduces a slight variation of green to their Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 – a case crafted of their exclusive material, Lime Gold. An 18K alloy of Gold (750 parts/1000), Silver (238 parts/1000) and Iron (12 parts/1000), this combination gives a distinctive greenish hue to what is normally a yellow metal. The intended effect is to evoke a sense of vintage aesthetics through its colour – combined with the Cathedral hands, green numerals and the gold coloured dial, the watch certainly evokes the sense that it is from another era. This combined with the colimacon (snail) tachymetre scale, further reinforces the old-world feel of this watch. When the watch is turned over and viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, we see the gorgeous Minerva Calibre MB M16.31 – traditionally hand finished with bridges crafted of German Silver that has been coated with 18k gold. A manually-wound, monopusher split-second chronograph movement, the watch contains two column wheels to control the chronograph and its ingenious split second mechanism.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 – Green Dial

The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is traditionally a design that is conservative, with a black dial echoing the original “Mark” series wrist watches first issued to the RAF in the late 40s and 50s. In recent times, however, we have seen blue and brown dials, paying tribute to Le Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint Exupery respectively. For Watches and Wonders 2021, we see an unusual addition to this line, a green dial version of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 in regular production. Appearing as a rich, dark green, it almost resembles British Racing Green in its tones – the sunburst finishing on the dial definitely helps with this. This new model also features the brand’s EasX-CHANGE system, that enables quick strap changes between bracelet and leather options. Housed within the watch is the in-house Calibre 69385 movement, an Automatic Chronograph movement visible from its sapphire crystal caseback.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer – Green Dial Titanium

The Aquaracer, is a favourite first watch for many people who like watches (certainly in Australia), and this year, it has been given a facelift and an upgrade, particularly in the materials department. Most notably, the green version of this watch now features a titanium case and bracelet, bringing lightness and comfort to this model, in addition to its toughness and high water resistance. The horizontal ridges of the previous models are retained, whilst the ceramic bezel now features a sunburst brushing with a yellow triangle at 12. The bracelet clasp also receives an upgrade, now equipped with a fine adjustment system that is operational even whilst the watch is on the wrist. Housed within the titanium case is the TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Automatic, featuring the date at 6 o’clock.

Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked Dual Time Mint

Bold and contemporary with its choice of colour, the Speake-Marin One&Two Openworked is a mint green number with a DLC coated case. Coming in either 38mm or 42mm case sizes, the brand’s signature Piccadilly case is modernised to enable a better fit on the wrist by integrating the strap closer to the case itself. This duality of the anachronistic, yet modern case lends itself to the movement that hosts the audacious choices of colour. The Calibre SMA02 incorporates darkened bridges on the dial side, as well as a mint green backdrop that accentuates these structures. In addition, the subdials at 1:30 and 9:00 (for the sub-seconds and the dual time respectively), feature mint green accents for an extra colour pop. The movement is also wound through a micro-rotor, and also features a retrograde date underneath the seconds subdial.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes aux Fees Edition

Coming in at only 2mm thick, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept remains the thinnest mechanical watch in the world – to honour the place where Piaget continues to further the art of ultra-thin, the brand unveils the Altiplano Ultimate Concept La Cotes Aux Fees Edition, with green integrated components that echo the forests and green fields that surround the manufacture. This watch began its journey in 2018 as a true concept watch, and it was unknown to the public whether this would become a production piece. In 2020, a production version was realised, officially making it the thinnest mechanical watch in regular production. The case, mainplate and bezel is all one piece, and is machined out of a cobalt alloy for rigidity. All of the movement components are placed into the case to reduce its case height to the extremes, and even the crown is rectangular and telescopic to reduce the overall thickness of the watch.

Green on watches is a colour that, when done right, can be incredibly wearable and complementary to many wardrobes. In addition, some of these watches with exceptional colour hold exceptional movements, as seen in some of the examples above. We at ISOCHRONO believe that there is no doubt that green is here to stay, being a welcome addition to many watch collections.

So we already knew yesterday that the Explorer line would be the focus of this year’s releases. So let’s cut to the chase now that all the new models have been announced: the new Explorer 2 will not feature a ceramic bezel as expected by online punters. Instead the essential technical upgrade for this model line comes in the form of the Calibre 3285, a movement that was released in 2018 with modern technical specs as well as a new generation Chromalight display for longer and better nighttime visibility.

Apparently the case and bracelet have been redesigned, but the effect is so slight visually that you would probably only notice the difference if you were an owner of a previous generation 42mm Explorer 2. The watch will come in the same black and white lacquer dial options we’re already familiar with, with the same orange 24 hour GMT hand.

One thing I can say about this watch though is that I’m glad that Rolex did not put a ceramic bezel on it. It might make sense on a Daytona or a GMT Master 2, but in the environment where the Explorer 2 is designed for, I’m gonna be afraid of a ceramic bezel breaking when climbing or in rough terrain when rubbing the watch against rock. You might say the same thing for the ceramic bezel of the Submariner, but then at least when you’re diving you have a sense of when you can return to the surface, which is not that long compared to a mountaineer or explorer. In the latter case you might be lost for longer than you might think, and so a stainless steel bezel makes more sense.

Remaining with stainless steel also preserves an essential characteristic of what makes an Explorer 2 an Explorer 2 and that is fine by me. A ceramic bezel in my opinion would just be a step too far.

Rolex Explorer 36mm

The more interesting release from Rolex though is the new 36mm Explorer in two variations. It’s interesting for basically two reasons.

The first is that the 36mm Explorer was discontinued some 10 years ago by the 39mm reference 114270, with 39mm being the de facto Explorer size even as it was upgraded midway with full luminous numerals. So this new Explorer means that the classic 36mm size is back, which should cheer those who prefer a smaller watch or a modern performing version of a known icon.

The second reason is going to be more polarizing, and sees Rolex stepping out in doing something new with the Explorer line. It’s well known that no watch in the Explorer line has ever been offered with any precious metal. Until recently, the Sea Dweller was similar in this respect, being a line that was offered exclusively in steel, but the rules were broken when a two-tone version came out in 2019.

It’s the same story here with this new 36mm Explorer which also comes in a two-tone Rolesor which technically speaking is a combination of Oystersteel and 18k gold as well as a normal full Oystersteel one.

So I’m not sure what to make of this new Rolesor Explorer. It doesn’t seem to fit into the spirit of the Explorer line, unless you can trade that bit of gold on the watch with jungle natives for some food and shelter. Or maybe Rolex has too many highly specified and modern Oyster case watches and they see the Rolesor Explorer as a new dressy option for customers? Perhaps like the two tone Sea Dweller, most of these Explorers won’t be used in the environment they were designed for (even though technically they could) and so a buyer who requires a sporty and dressy watch at the same time could get away with getting the Rolesor as their one watch.

The new-generation Explorer also comes equipped with the new Calibre 3230 with Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement as well as the same type of bright and long lasting Chromalight display as the aforementioned Explorer 2’s.

Will it be a fan favourite? I can’t tell and will probably need to take some time to get used to it.

Meteorite Daytona in Gold

With prices for the steel ceramic Daytona continuing to climb in the secondary market, and with no end in sight to the shortage of stock versus demand, it’s safe to say that Rolex has no need to offer new versions.

So this time round, Rolex has decided to introduce three precious metal variations of the Daytona with meteorite dials.

We all love meteorite dials when they are done in the right way. There’s something cool about having the oldest material that existed before the earth was created on a dial of a watch, and also that each dial will necessarily be different due to the unpredictable nature of the Widmanstätten patterns.

This is a move that I am very much happy with. The three variations of Daytona come as follows: Yellow Gold on matching bracelet, White Gold with Ceramic Bezel on Oyster flex and an Everose Gold on matching bracelet.

GMT Master 2 – Something hidden in the configurator

Love the GMT Master 2 but always wanted it in a configuration that wasn’t set by Rolex – for example with Pepsi bezel on an Oyster or even on a Jubilee bracelet. Well, go to the configurator on the GMT Master 2 page (link here), and you configure the version of the watch that you want.

In stainless steel, the GMT Master 2 can come with a two tone black and blue (Batman), or blue and red (Pepsi) style bezel, on either a Jubilee or an Oyster bracelet – it’s your choice.

Though the website doesn’t say what happens when you press select. I’m sure that demand for the watch will remain high enough that you will probably just take whatever you are offered. Though the chance of getting your GMT Master 2 on an Oyster is better than before.

It does beg the question though on how this move will affect the secondary values of some Rolex GMT Masters, since it removes the exclusivity factor of the Pepsi bezel version in white gold which came on an Oyster bracelet, and the differentiation factor of the “Batman” which came on an Oyster and had the older movement, vs the “Batgirl” on the Jubilee with the newer, better movement.

I don’t really care about this either way, since my thoughts on making money with Rolex are clear enough – (linked below).

A note on this, you don’t really have the same scope of bracelet and bezel options with the two tone or precious metal versions, but the fact that this configurator exists suggests that these might be possible in the future. Let’s hope that a more customisable buying process will become a reality for Rolex customers.

Via Asiaone.com comes the story of a man who ran off with two Rolex watches worth SGD$44K, during a prearranged meetup at Upper Boon Keng Road on March 6th 2021. 

The man who ran off with the watches, had contacted the owner via the online marketplace, Carousell, under the pretext of wanting to buy them. During the meetup, while the suspect was checking the watches, he unexpectedly ran off without paying. 

The suspect was charged with theft just two days later on March 8th, after one of the stolen watches was listed online on Carousell. 

It’s probably worth noting that this was kind of a dumb theft to attempt since the deal was made through Carousell, which requires multiple means of verification, including a valid mobile phone number, for an account to be made. Given that in Singapore, anyone who wants to get a mobile phone number must present identification first, it was not too much effort to find out the identity of the suspect quickly. 

Lastly, the seller did a smart thing, setting up the meeting in a public location covered by CCTV cameras. This was what enabled police to verify the identity of the suspect as well. 

There was no information on which Rolex models were the ones stolen, but based on what I’ve been able to surmise from various other reports, it’s most probably a ceramic Submariner and a yellow gold Day Date with diamonds markers and bezel. 

Glad to see that the whole situation was sorted so quickly, and as always, it’s a good reminder to be careful when carrying out deals with this. It’s also a reminder of why dealers exist to do things like this, who can help you avoid a potential minefield. See my previous article below.

It just always seemed to be out of reach as I started getting more interested in watches. By the time I was (barely) able to afford one, the black-dialled iteration of the 116520, my choice of poison, had become rather popular and could only be found at a 20% premium through resellers. The premium escalated rapidly, and availability started becoming scarce. In 2016, I marvelled at the beauty of the newly launched 116500LN. This time, the white dial called to me like a siren beckoning sailors to their doom. I’m sure I don’t need to go into detail about how it was impossible to buy it at list price.

I briefly considered snapping it up with a 50% mark up when I saw it at a reseller, but very quickly dismissed that momentary lapse of judgment, chiding myself for being insane to even contemplate what was obviously irrational and impulsive behaviour. To my dismay, I watched the price balloon even further within months, and I beat myself up for hesitating and being rational. At that point, I had pretty much given up all hope of ever laying my hands on one. And then something happened that was nothing short of a miracle.

No, I was not contacted by the dealer to inform me that it was finally my turn to receive one. I am rather far down the food chain. A dear friend of mine, however, was not. He received a message to inform him that a new, very limited, shipment had arrived and he was allocated a piece. He had, for reasons unknown, expressed interest in the watch to the dealer despite not actually wanting it. He recalled, bless his soul, that less than a week before I had mentioned to him that the Daytona was the one watch that I wanted but could never get. And he decided to make it happen for me.

And so, after years of yearning, I finally obtained that one elusive timepiece thanks to that saint of a man. It has been almost a year since, and I have enjoyed wearing it as much as I possibly could despite the lockdowns and madness characterised most of 2020. In that short span of time, there have been several new additions to my collection. At the time of writing this, I have even placed a deposit for the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down, a true masterpiece of a chronograph movement that has been blessed by the great Phillipe Dufour. Surely some of that love for the 116500LN would have waned by now.

Not in the slightest.

There are many things to love about what is quite possibly the most desirable watch in the world. It maintains the svelte case that has long been discontinued in all other popular Rolex professional series watches in favour of a more chiselled and heftier chassis. While the super case added a greater degree of masculinity, it robbed the brand of the elegance found in earlier models. Even though the case size is the same at 40mm (pre-2020 Submariner), the Daytona wears smaller which makes it an easy fit for all wrist sizes.

The introduction of the ceramic, or in Rolex speak – Cerachrom, bezel did not alter the wearability of the Daytona but delivered the promise of a watch that will continue to look its very best in decades to come due to the scratch-resistant properties of the new material. While tastes are highly subjective, I personally feel that the polished black bezel contrasts beautifully with the steel and the white dial.

This is not a subtle watch by design. The oyster bracelet features polished centre links to match the case. In the light, practically every aspect of the watch glitters and demands your attention. This “bling” factor makes the Daytona much dressier than your typical tool watch, which at this point begs most to reconsider even calling it one anymore. As resistant to scratches as the bezel is, the same cannot be said of the case and bracelet, both of which are prone to the rigours of daily wear. Fortunately, there exists now protective healing shields that you can have applied to various parts of the watch to prevent scuff marks. I have had them on since getting the watch, and I can confidently say that they work brilliantly. And they are barely visible too. But enough about my obsession for pristine watches.

The busyness of the dial has been a subject of many discussions, but I personally have no issues with it. Five lines of copy is hardly unusual for a Rolex dial, and despite them coexisting with the sub-dials, nothing seems out of place. I even like the red Daytona label above the seconds sub-dial, which adds a spot of colour on an otherwise monochromatic palette. This is all very familiar as the layout has been in existence since the release of the reference 16520 in 1988. Legibility remains high despite the sum of all its parts.

As a timekeeper, the calibre 4130 is no slouch, as hinted by the “Superlative Chronometer” printed on the dial. Official technical specifications indicate a variation of ±2 seconds per day and real-world usage confirms it. Activating the chronograph feels smooth and precise, with a satisfying click to indicate actuation. So you can expect precision, whether you are timing a lap around the track or ensuring that your soft-boiled egg has the preferred consistency. I mostly use the chronograph for the latter, if ever, and I always buffer sufficient time to unscrew the pushers to prepare them for use. A small price to pay for the 100 metres of water resistance they accord.

So it wears well, looks good, and tells precise time, but the same can be said of many other timepieces. The real question is whether true love exists, and if it can be had or parted with for the right sum of money. Well, that depends entirely on which side you are on. I was not prepared to pay incredibly inflated prices to obtain it. For that amount of money I could buy the Zenith El Primero and the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, both of which have greater historical significance, and still have change to spare. Just because Paul Newman wore a Daytona doesn’t mean I have to pay top dollar for it. And it’s not even the same watch!

2021 has had an exciting start so far with the new releases from the aforementioned brands. The Moonwatch has been updated with the new co-axial calibre 3861, and Zenith has just released the Chronomaster Sport equipped with the new El Primero calibre 3600 that operates at 5hz, measures up to 1/10^th of a second and even sports a ceramic bezel. Up against such competition, the Daytona’s lead seems to fade a little from a technical standpoint and its comparatively lacklustre backstory also has less gravitas than its peers.

But if, like me, you have the opportunity to buy one at list price, the Daytona still presents a strong case. Its current cultural status and the strength of the Rolex brand is hard to deny. The availability of the watch, or lack thereof, has a dizzying effect on collector sentiment and to own one puts you squarely in the sights of envious onlookers. Whether I care to admit it or not, the Daytona does imbue me with a certain sense of gleeful pride. I know all of this represents nothing more than bragging rights, but surely that is the primary reason for the existence of luxury watches in the first place.

For more tangible arguments in its favour, the Daytona’s value retention is second to none in this segment. Even if you never plan on selling it, it always feels good knowing that the watch sitting on your wrist is worth far more than what you paid for, meaning that if I have to sell it, I would be paid extra for wearing it. 

I was asked on numerous occasions if I would sell my Daytona for a huge profit to fund my next purchase, and I have dismissed the very notion of it with swiftness and great certainty. I enjoy wearing it far too much and have waited far too long to obtain it. Rolex just knows how to make a great watch and this Daytona, nay, MY Daytona sits comfortably and firmly in my collection. It’s mine and I’m keeping it.

True love does, indeed, exist.

With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

With Rolex professional models commanding a premium in the pre-owned market way above the retail price, it’s no surprise that reports of all sorts of shenanigans have taken place. You might have heard stories of Authorized Dealers (AD’s) selling out the back door to pre-owned dealers for instant profit, or wealthy VIP customers buying undesirable watches to get the hot models to be flipped for profit. I’ve even heard of and from scores of regular punters putting their name on the waiting list with the intention to flip the watch for profit if their name comes up. 

These are all things we’ve heard happening and are difficult to verify for the most part, since these dealings are usually done in the shadows, but there are enough stories to suggest that it is mostly true, which leaves the typical watch lover who wants to buy a Rolex sports model like the Submariner, Daytona, GMT Master 2 and Explorer 2 in a bit of a bind, since the love of the watch might give way to the temptation of using one’s current or potential Rolex as a way to make some money. 

Why you probably shouldn’t try to make money with Rolex. 

1. The Bid Ask spread means profits are limited

When there is a market and there are dealers involved, there are usually two prices to take note of, which in financial market parlance is the Bid and the Ask. The Bid is the higher price which is what a dealer will sell to you at, and the Ask is the lower price that a dealer will buy it from you. Where the dealer makes his profit is in the spread or difference between the two. 

If this is difficult to understand, think of when you needed to change money and were confronted with exchange rates with two numbers side by side. You would normally change money at the rate that is disadvantageous to you. 

It’s the same when you want to sell your watch to a dealer. They are in business to make money and they have overheads to take care of, so you might find that their offer to buy your watch might not be the amount you think you can make. 

For example, I was offered $7.5K for an Explorer 2 that I bought for $4.2K 7 years ago. Yes I might have been able to make a profit, but not as much as the $10-12K I was expecting which is what the dealer might sell it for. 

Another example, a brand new ceramic Daytona might be $35K pre-owned now, but try selling it and the dealer might take it at $27K or less depending on their level of inventory.

Another example, a friend who had a GMT Master 2 pre-owned was offered a price of 10-11K, which is either ok or bad depending on whether he got it at $16K or $10K. 

2. Selling on your own is a minefield that can break you  

You could of course sell the watch on your own, and if you do it is possible to realize a higher price than with a dealer, but this route comes with all manner of irritations that might make the process very unpleasant. Think from the point of view of the buyer. If you’re a private seller, you will necessarily have to sell at a lower price than the dealer since you have no reputation. Then there will be buyers who will take the opportunity to low-ball you. Even if you find a willing buyer, you might have to accompany them to the RSC (Rolex Service Centre) or an independent watchmaker to get it authenticated.  

The worst scenario is of course if a buyer tries to run a scam on you, whether by reversing the bank transfer when the watch is delivered, or claiming that the watch is fake when received and calling the police on you. 

There is a reason why dealers exist since they make the whole transaction process easy and fuss free and also the reason why they get a cut from the transaction. Of course, It’s not to say that dealers don’t have to deal with scammers all the time, but at least it’s part of their profession, and not yours as a private seller. 

Lastly, say you want to sell your hot Rolex to your friend to avoid the problems that might come with selling to strangers – then would you feel comfortable selling a ceramic Daytona you bought at retail for $16.6K to them for $35K even though it is at the market price? It’s a bit dodgy to do that honestly and what kind of friend are you? 

3. Getting banned from the AD

The stories vary widely from country to country but it seems that ADs do keep a lookout for people who flip the watches they buy for profit not long after selling them. I’ve heard that Rolex requires all buyers to have their name recorded when purchasing their watch, and have even seen some examples of AD’s holding on to the buyer’s warranty card for up to a year after purchase in order to discourage the practice. 

Again these are not personally verified but if it is true, it does mean that if a watch comes on the pre-owned market then the person who bought it might not be able to buy another hot Rolex in the future anymore at the lower full retail price. 

Of course, you might not be interested to buy another Rolex after the one that you were lucky enough to get allocated, and if so then enjoy that small profit you’ve earned, but it’s definitely not a business model that you can rely on to make a living. 

In what instances can you make money with Rolex? 

1. If you’re a wealthy SOB

Lucky you, and you can get the watches easily, because your AD wants you to continue spending the big bucks for undesirable watches, sometimes from other brands, together with the hot Rolex, in a process called “bundling”. While it might help AD’s move difficult to sell stock, and help out their cash flow, there’s something quite distasteful about it no matter how understandable it can be from a business perspective. 

If you are a wealthy SOB, then you (or someone else) might (or might not) have worked hard for your money, and in this world money talks, so I suppose this might be a strategy that is open to you. After all, who can pass up “free money” and it seems to be a form of investment only available to a certain class of people, just like accredited investors are to hedge funds. 

By the way, if you’re “bundling”, then you’ll have to find a way to dispose of the undesirable pieces that you have bought, which may or may not be easy depending on what they are, and that might eat into your profit on the hot Rolex. Though you would probably have a way to deal with that already so again, lucky you. 

2. You’ve found a valuable family heirloom

Your father or grandfather might have bought a Rolex a long time ago that has suddenly turned out to be the hottest thing on the vintage market now. Great but so what. You were not the one who bought the watch in question anyway, so you didn’t come up with this “investment opportunity”. Sometimes good fortune can come down to pure dumb luck, and if that’s the case, then maybe its God’s way of rewarding your good deeds. Though if you want to sell grandpa’s watch to make some cash, then make sure that the reward is good enough to pay off the family memories that might come with the watch. 

Also on this, beware who you sell to because scams are afoot. There are dealers who will take advantage of your ignorance to skim off a big chunk of the market value, and the whole Bid Ask problem also exists when you deal with auction houses with their extra fees.

3. Become a professional dealer

Get some capital together, invest in inventory, get educated on how to authenticate watches, then run your business in a professional manner. Watch dealers are in my experience the smartest guys I’ve ever met, and my guess on how this happens is probably because watch dealing is a business that is rife with scams. Most watch dealers I know have been burned before in large and small ways and in order to survive it’s a matter of keeping ahead of the bad guys.

And that’s before we even get to the fact that sustaining any business is its own challenge in its own right.   

What should you do if you want a Rolex sports model? 

Some people say that a Rolex watch is like a commodity, and in some ways this is true. Like real commodities in financial markets, the price ranges of most models are known, and there is a liquid enough market to sell them quickly and easily if you need to. 

However saying that a Rolex is like a commodity is not saying the same thing as a Rolex actually being one. 

Yes, the comparison can be made, but when you get down to it, there are more variables that come into the picture, such as the condition of the watch, the model in question, whether it comes with box and papers and so on, which means that a subjective opinion can be imposed on the transaction to your detriment more easily. Lastly, because it is a specific physical object you are selling, you have to do your deals individually, or over-the-counter (OTC) in financial market parlance, instead of through an exchange with one visible price for everyone.  

If you know about financial markets, you’ll know what I mean. 

With all that said, I think that it’s important to realize why you want to buy a Rolex whether pre-owned or brand new. Is it because you want to reward yourself? Or is it because you want to own a reliable, dependable watch that is also a recognizable status symbol that is beautiful and enjoyable to wear? If so, then good for you, put your name on a waiting list if you are able, or if you’re impatient, just go ahead and pay the premium in the vast market of pre-owned hot Rolexes (supplied by the wealthy SOB’s) because you’ll probably spend the same amount anyway if the “bundling” process fails for you. Also, since Rolex is a symbol of achievement, you’ll be able to tell yourself that you achieved more, as you had to pay more. 

If your name comes up on the waiting list, buy the watch, remove the stickers and enjoy it by wearing it everyday. You were lucky enough to get one, so treat the watch as your good luck charm for all of life’s coming endeavours, and forget about your plans to make the type of small windfall that comes way way short of a winning lottery ticket.  

Or if you’re keen on NOT playing these games, and also NOT spending above retail for a nice watch, maybe buy a Tudor instead, like this Black Bay GMT below.  

*prices quoted are in SGD (Singapore Dollars)

Everything moves a little slowly these days and with the world still under the fog of the COVID-19 pandemic that has no clear end in sight as of today, it’s worth moving a little more slowly and cautiously, since nothing can be set in stone. So if you read my points below and don’t know the context of what I’m saying, go to the press release at the end to get filled in.

The first thing to note is the surprising speed at which the news of change has come, a mere two months after it all went down with the departure of the five anchor brands from Hall 1 at Baselworld.

The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is finally dead

Certainly, this is a stark contrast to the glacially slow pace of change that characterised the management of Baselworld by the MCH Group previously that resulted in their near death experience this year. Though as ever there is nothing like being at death’s door to get the ultimate kick up the pants to do something right.

Following on from the recent injection of funds via an investment by James Murdoch, son of Rupert Murdoch, the MCH Group might just have gotten a lifeline and it’s up to the new reorganised company to see how much they can reclaim their lost reputation.

The new name – HourUniverse –

Ok, so I’m not too keen on the name. First of all, like its predecessor name “Baselworld”, it is a compound word. For the first half of the name, instead of a place – “Basel”, it is a measure of time instead – “Hour”. Also, instead of “World”, it is now “Universe”.

A few things about this. I can understand why removing the word “Basel” from the name might be good, since it’s a decisive move to distance themselves from the old “Baselworld”. If that’s the motivation, I can stand by it, even if everyone will still have to go to Basel to attend HourUniverse.

But why “Hour”? I think that because it has something to do with horology and because it’s a homophone (that sounds the same but with a different meaning) with “Our”. So there is implied in this choice, a spirit of inclusion of togetherness.

It’s a little lame to be honest, but if “HourUniverse” turns out to be “(H)ours”, (meaning all us watch industry stakeholders such as the brands, the retailers, the press and collectors) then maybe it will be alright.

As for the second part. We all know that the Miss Universe beauty pageant still takes place on Earth with no aliens taking part, so the words are effectively synonyms in this context, with perhaps a greater ambition implied in the new name. It’s not especially creative, but fine.

The extended eco-system – A new digital platform –

As the owner of an online watch media platform, I know that it is not easy to produce quality content consistently. Quite a few watch media websites already do a good job as it is, along with their associated social media platforms such as Instagram and Facebook. In this context, I find it hard to believe that HourUniverse will be able to pivot successfully to producing content as good as, or even to start a community based digital platform that will gain traction.

Of course, I could be wrong and if the MCH Group is sufficiently motivated to do this, they will throw good money in this direction to make it happen.

So what this means is that whether it will work will depend on how well it is done. Essentially, it’s a wait and see type situation there, but I’m betting that I will be underwhelmed. Prove me wrong HourUniverse!

The Yearly Meeting – Baselworld with a new lick of paint

This is basically the new Baselworld event that will draw people from all over the world to see the new watches and to meet up. It helps that next year’s HourUniverse event is now aligned with Watches and Wonders 2021 in April, instead of the botched decision to postpone Baselworld 2020 to January 2021, a significant factor in causing the anchor brands to leave.

But then, with the anchor tenants already gone and having already committed to starting a new trade show, the question is if there is enough in the new HourUniverse to come back. It’s going to be difficult to reverse a decision like this, especially when it was made after serious consideration. And that’s not even counting the pain of the economic downturn this year, as well as the fact that the pandemic is still ongoing, with no end in sight.

Any plans for a physical event can only be tentative at this point, and no one will rush to invert the status quo already established, especially when the MCH Group are in the process of proving themselves again. If there’s anything I know about watch brands, they like to know that the foundation of their potential partners are solid before committing.

It also begs the question of what the new trade show format instigated by Rolex and friends will be like, since the mandate for it was stated as being a for the good of the Swiss watch industry. That might mean that it will be created for all brands rather than a few, and if it is attractive enough for the smaller brands, there might not be enough left over to populate the HourUniverse next year.

It seems then that there will be quite a bit of backroom dealing and negotiation that will take place among the top management of all the stakeholders involved, and there is really no way to know how it will all play out.

More details will be released come August and I think that everyone will be interested in what they will be. I’m most certainly going to stay tuned to that.

—————————————————————————————-

Press release
Basel, 23 July 2020
MCH is creating a new concept for a global platform for the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries: HOURUNIVERSE.

Two months to listen, analyse, identify; and create. An innovative platform to meet today’s needs. To unite and support a whole community that wants to regroup, make a new start and is receptive to change.

Open, modern, experimental, inclusive, user-friendly, interconnected, the MCH teams have put all their expertise and the feedback and input from customers and other stakeholders into giving birth to a new platform concept.

An extended ecosystem

Live and virtual, active all year round, benefiting from the latest technologies for content, and for networking, the new platform is dedicated to players in the watch, jewellery and gemstone industries, but not exclusively.

The new concept is a B2B2C meeting point that places the customer at the heart of its focus, reversing the order of the past. The entire platform is thought out and designed around the customer. This applies to all players of the distribution chain, traditional and online retailers, including those of the CPO (certified Pre-Owned).

Flanking them, the platform will build an extended ecosystem with watch, jewellery and gemstone brands, developers of new solutions in distribution, marketing and points of sale, and other players of the industry. A global, varied, interconnected, unified world.

A 365 platform, with an annual live meeting

Named HOURUNIVERSE, the platform will be digitally active throughout the year and will host an annual live show.

A community platform that creates bridges between buyers and sellers and all the players in the industry, it is also a place that encourages exchanges, information-sharing, content creation, reflection through talks and conferences that also provide visibility for brands and their products.

In April 2021, the community will meet at HOURUNIVERSE in Basel, Switzerland. The show will be aligned with the watchmaking events in Geneva, in the best interests of the international community which will only have to travel to Switzerland once a year.

The show will reinforce contacts thanks to new tools, the creation of content, a maximum of Touch & Feel experiences, as well as moments of conviviality, networking and fully integrated events. Along with this new customer oriented approach, a new competitive hospitality concept will also be an integral part of the packages proposed, and those associated players of Basel
life will not be exempt from this involvement.

The detailed concept of HOURUNIVERSE will be unveiled late August in combination with the start of marketing. HOURUNIVERSE: IT’S WE TIME!

Honestly, it was a surprise that the new Black Bay 58 “Navy Blue” was launched now. Afterall, it was only a few months ago when Tudor and big brother Rolex announced that their 2020 releases would be postponed indefinitely, and this was following the cancellation of Baselworld this year due to the Coronavirus pandemic. 

To be fair of course, “postponed indefinitely” does mean anytime after that point, and so now, we’ve suddenly seen a vigorous implementation of a very different strategy in the way that the brand’s watches are being launched. Instead of a once per year extravaganza at Baselworld with the simultaneous launch of all the novelties of the year, it seems that, due to the way the world is changing, it will probably become a series of individual launches throughout the year instead. It’s a trend that has been going on for some time with a few watch brands, who found that doing it this way would allow their launches to be clear of the clutter of everyone releasing their new watches all at once at the big fairs. Another benefit of course is how it gives an element of surprise that is always nice when dealing with such products of pleasure. For Tudor, this way of doing things is entirely new, and it was nice that the new watch was announced right when the physical stock was already delivered and ready for sale at dealers worldwide. That’s why there are people out there who were able to buy the watch the moment that the news was dropped, and to also film review videos for Youtube within the same day. 

What a difference to not have to wait for a watch that doesn’t even have a chance to become eagerly anticipated. Instant gratification and fulfilment is a state of affairs that will certainly be the way to go from here on in, for the watch industry. 

The size of popularity 

The original Black Bay Fifty-Eight became, from the moment it was released, an instant hit. Aside from the obvious attributes that would ensure its success, from the bank vault solidity of construction that we expect from Tudor, its in-house movement and aesthetic vintage touches, the main reason was the size that it was offered in. While the Black Bay line that was launched in 2012 has been the cornerstone of Tudor’s rise in recent times, with the above-mentioned attributes being the ingredients that have ensured it, the main Achilles heel of the collection for some, was the size of the Black Bay case, which came in at 41mm in diameter and 14.75mm thick.

Now this is a size that is in line with most modern watches released these days and by itself, there is nothing out of the ordinary. 

Yet when compared to Rolex, its stablemate and maker of the post popular and admired sports watches on the planet, it was a little too big. Rolex of course keeps most of their signature models such as the Daytona, GMT-Master 2 and Submariner to the sweet spot size of 40mm, with a few exceptions such as the complication laded Sky-Dweller at 42mm x 14.01mm and the Deepsea SeaDweller at 44.0 mm x 17.7 mm, both watches that are bigger than the norm because of technical reasons. So for the Tudor fan who wanted their Black Bay to have the smaller, more manageable footprint of the classic 40mm Rolex sports watch, it was not to be – until the Black Bay 58 which came in at 39mm in diameter and just 11.9mm thick. We might be talking about mere millimetres here, but when it is in regards to watch sizes, these little differences make all the difference in the world. 

What the Black Bay 58 did was to keep everything that was loved about the Black Bay line, shaving off a few millimetres here and there, and for some legitimacy, base the watch off the reference 7924 or “Big Crown” from 1958.

What did this simple move achieve? Well, let me describe the appeal of the watch in two words: Waiting List. 

And you thought it was only Rolex that could do that.

Black Bay 58 Navy Blue

With the success of the Black Bay 58, Tudor knew that they had found a winning formula, and so it was only a matter of time that this new case size would be expanded across more models. The new watch, the Black Bay 58 Navy Blue is the first of more that I expect will come with this smaller 39mm case size.As the name implies, the watch is differentiated by the first Black Bay 58 by having a Navy Blue dial and a matching Navy Blue aluminum bezel insert. The Navy Blue is different in feel however, as it doesn’t have the vintage elements such as the gilt finished dial, and the red bezel triangle. Instead it comes across as more modern, and bears the colour scheme of white elements, (hands, markers and text) against the navy blue background. This gives the watch something of a similar feel to the Pelagos Blue that I reviewed before, albeit in a more classically styled Oyster case.

Spending time with the Tudor Pelagos Blue

Or perhaps another somewhat similar looking watch, colourwise, is the Rolex Submariner reference 116619, a watch that is famous for having a blue bezel and dial, and coming in a white gold case. That watch is sometimes known by its nickname: “Smurf”. So many we can nickname the new Black Bay 58, the Tudor Smurf as well? Now to be clear, the new watch is exactly the same as the previous one, save for the new colours. It still comes with the inhouse calibre MT 5402, a COSC certified movement with a silicon hairspring and 70 hours power reserve, which is basically all the good stuff that anyone really needs. As well for this launch, the watch is also available on a new soft touch strap, which is made of a synthetic and tactile material that resembles a flannel. It feels very comfortable on the wrist, and does extend one of the brand’s hallmarks, introducing cool fabric straps every now and then, with their watches. It’s quite obvious that this watch will do well, and certainly, the ones that were available for purchase at launch have all mostly been snapped up already, which for the Black Bay 58, is business as usual. What will Tudor do from now on? I think, focus on making more 39-40mm sized watches because that is what people want. If I’m right, maybe we can look forward to a smaller GMT or chronograph in the future, both of which are well within the technical capabilities of Tudor. Let’s see how it goes. 

[ninja_tables id=”5633″]

For those of us in the watch industry, we add today, one more improbable event that has unfortunately come to pass – the announcement of the departure by the blue chip brands, Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chopard and Chanel – from the “postponed” Baselworld in January 2021, and from other editions henceforth, should they happen.

In a joint press release by these heavy hitting and long time anchor tenants from Hall 1 of Baselworld, they will create a new watch trade show in Geneva with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, in conjunction with the Richemont brands at Watches & Wonders in early April 2021.

Obviously, the departures in recent times by the Swatch Group and other significant brands like Breitling, Seiko, Casio and others were their own seismic shocks that had come about for a mix of reasons. The root cause without doubt, was the arrogant and inattentive Baselworld management, who had done little to improve the experience of those who exhibited and attended. Instead, everything that they did was glazed with an avaricious spirit, with price gouging the norm, and overcharging for every little thing a state of affairs that long time attendees had been trained to deal with.

Instead of being a partner to the brands, retailers and the press who attended, and operating under the mandate of promoting Swiss horology to the world, the Baselworld management acted like they had inherited a golden goose, and was making it lay eggs to exhaustion. Why improve anything when people would keep on coming back because of a long standing tradition?

Certainly, brands might have needed Baselworld ten years ago when it was the only good platform to introduce new watches to the world, yet when the internet came along to give more options for communication, Baselworld failed to respond by continuing to have poor WiFi connection in the halls. Contrast this with the efforts of the SIHH (now renamed to Watches & Wonders), that started to provide good WIFI, and even well-lit booths for the press to shoot watches properly as well as proper areas to conduct interviews, all so that the news could be sent out into the world quickly via social media.

Not only that, it seemed that the city of Basel itself did not appear to want to take care of this yearly influx of visitors, with attendees to the Baselworld fair having to endure the same price gouging outside as well at hotels and restaurants, generally having an unpleasant and expensive experience. Could not the Baselworld management have done something about it?

But then, even with these issues, one could never contemplate the possible end of Baselworld seriously since the kings of the fair – Rolex and Patek Philippe, had not signaled any intention to budge. They have always been, and let’s be real about this, the main draw and the reason why people made the time and expense to attend.

The new team at the helm, who had taken over the old Baselworld management who had unceremoniously resigned after the departure of the Swatch Group was supposed to bring us new innovations for the 2020 edition. Part of the plan was to make hotel rates more reasonable, and even that was a joke, since these were essentially the same as before. Another was their strange Community District initiative, that was aimed at making it easier and cheaper for brands to participate, which had drawn a brand like Maurice Lacroix, who had previously departed Baselworld, to return.

Maurice Lacroix returns to Baselworld in 2020

It was going well, sort of, and 2020 was going to be the Baselworld management’s chance at redemption. By all accounts, their efforts were welcomed with caution, that was, until the Coronavirus epidemic hit.

The first indication of a down-hill slide was their tone-deaf proclamation that the show would go on as planned, when it was obvious to everyone that the epidemic would get worse. Finally, a day after Watches & Wonders was cancelled, the Baselworld management had no choice but to fold their hand and cancel as well, and in the process sent out a curiously worded press release that said that Baselworld 2020 had been “postponed” to 2021.

Baselworld 2020 “postponed” to January 2021 due to the COVID-19 virus

And now we know why.

Turns out that if they had used the word “cancelled”, the deposits from exhibiting brands would have to be returned. By using the word “postponed”, if a brand cancelled, the deposit would be forfeited. Essentially, it was the choice to use such legalese to hold on to as much of the deposits that were already collected as possible, and not to do the gentlemanly thing – of offering full refunds for the “cancelled” show. The kicker, they were going to charge 15% in fees for administrative expenses.

This was the final straw that made Hubert du Plessix, the president of the Committee of Swiss Exhibitors, who also happens to be a 30-year industry veteran and director of Rolex, to step in with a strongly worded letter to the MCH Group, owner of the Baselworld fair, to say that full refunds “would be the best way to encourage exhibitors who can participate in a future edition of Baselworld”. “Otherwise,” he continued. “We fear that this will be the end, pure and simple, of Baselworld.”

That letter was sent a week ago, and in the interim, sparked a series of internal industry discussions that had led to the reality that we face today.

The lesson is clear – you don’t test the patience of the industry leader, particularly one that can pull every other important Hall 1 stalwart away.

The press release, reproduced in full below, tells the story of frustration, with the choicest quote coming from Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe President, who said: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present.”

Heavy stuff.

So now this move provokes other questions that are relevant to the watch industry:

-What about the other brands? Especially the small and independent ones? If the mandate of the new watch trade fair led by Rolex is, as Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Chief Executive Officer, Rolex SA, and Board Member, Tudor, says “to create a new event with partners that share our vision and our endless, unwavering support for the Swiss watchmaking sector”, then it stands to reason that there will be a space for the smaller brands. If that happens, then, Baselworld is truly dead.

-Will the Swatch Group join the party? I think that this is possible since the reason for their departure of Baselworld were the grievances that were inflicted under the old management. If they did, it would signal a new unifying attitude of the entire Swiss watch industry, to work together for the benefit of everyone involved.

-What about LVMH, who are currently, (aside from Bulgari) still participating in Baselworld 2021? Well, they already have a presence in Geneva, taking up space at the Kempinski Hotel during the SIHH week. So they could join the party if asked or they could continue as usual. Either way they will be part of the mix in Geneva no question. As for Baselworld, there is probably no reason to continue attending.

-What about the bigger independent brands that had already left, like Breitling, Seiko and Casio? Will they be invited in, or is it Swiss brands only. And if they were asked, would they accept?

-Also, will the Coronavirus pandemic end on time to allow this new April 2021 watch fair to happen? No one knows what the world will look like then. The pandemic might not be over, and borders might still be closed. And even if they’re not, who knows what the appetite for travel will be like.

-Finally, will Baselworld release a statement to apologise, maybe offer new plans? If they do, will it change anything?

(Full press release reproduced below)

ROLEX, PATEK PHILIPPE, CHANEL, CHOPARD AND TUDOR LEAVE BASELWORLD. CREATION OF A NEW WATCH TRADE SHOW IN GENEVA IN COLLABORATION WITH THE FONDATION DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE.

Geneva, 14 April 2020 – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor leave Baselworld to create a new watch trade show in Geneva with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. The show will be held early April 2021 at Palexpo, at the same time as Watches & Wonders. This departure follows a number of unilateral decisions made without consultation by Baselworld management, including the postponement of the watch show until January 2021, as well as its inability to meet the brands’ needs and expectations.

The new show, which will be linked to Watches & Wonders, organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, is to take place at Palexpo. The aim is to offer partner brands the best possible professional platform, applying a shared vision to successfully meet future challenges in the watchmaking industry. It will also give crucial prominence to the sector’s expertise and innovations, both in Switzerland and internationally.

Other brands may also be added, according to terms that have not yet been defined. This new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers.

Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Chief Executive Officer, Rolex SA, and Board Member, Tudor, said: “We have taken part in Baselworld since 1939. Unfortunately, given the way the event has evolved and the recent decisions made by MCH Group, and in spite of the great attachment we had to this watch show, we have decided to withdraw. Following discussions initiated by Rolex, it seemed only natural to create a new event with partners that share our vision and our endless, unwavering support for the Swiss watchmaking sector. This will allow us to present our new watches in line with our needs and expectations, to join forces and better defend the interests of the industry.”

Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe said: “The decision to leave Baselworld was not an easy one to take for me, being the fourth generation of the Stern family to participate to this traditional yearly event. But life evolves constantly, things change and people change as well, whether it is at the level of those responsible for the watch fair organization, the brands or the clients. We constantly have to adapt ourselves, question what we do, since what was right yesterday may not necessarily be valid today!

Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present.

We need to answer the legitimate needs of our retailers, the clients and the press from around the world. They have to be able to discover the new models from Swiss watchmakers each year, at one time, in one place, and this in the most professional manner possible.

That is why, following several discussions with Rolex and in agreement with other participating brands, we have decided to create, all together, a unique event in Geneva, representative of our savoir-faire.“

Frédéric Grangier, CEO of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery said: “Like its partners, CHANEL shares the same independence and the same desire to protect and promote the values, know-how, utmost quality and precision of Swiss Watchmaking. This initiative marks a key milestone in the history of CHANEL Watchmaking and is part of a long-term strategy, which began with the launch of this activity in 1987. This exhibition will allow us to present all of our new creations in an environment that meets our high-quality standards.”

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President Chopard et Cie SA said: “Chopard first exhibited at the Basel fair in 1964 with a stand of some 25 square metres. After careful consideration, our family decided to support the Rolex initiative and retire from Baselworld – a painful decision. The creation of this new watch show in Geneva, in parallel to Watches & Wonders, will allow us to better serve our watchmaking partners and our customers. Through the alliance, these grandes maisons will also be able to collaborate in promoting the values and best interests of Swiss watchmaking.”

Jérôme Lambert, on behalf of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Council said: “The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is delighted to welcome a new salon which will strengthen the historical Watch & Wonders event in Geneva next year in early April.”

Further information will be published at a later date, in particular concerning the name of the new watch fair and its organization.