You know when a new watch has hit a nerve with the watch buying public when you see it on the wrists of people around you only a few days after launch. This was what happened with the first Tissot PRX that came in quartz in February last year, with the fever pitch momentum that it sparked off kicking into high gear with the automatic version that was launched a few months later in October.

Tissot had a hit with the PRX, achieving with this compelling release a state that all watch brands aspire to – overwhelming demand and waiting lists. What was the recipe for this success? Simple – great vintage styling and affordability. 

The first PRX was a hit, and so when the pundits came to predict what would come next, the logical next release should be a PRX chronograph. 

Well, here it is. 

The PRX family expands with a complication

Does the new PRX Automatic Chronograph succeed then? 

Well, to start it does come in at a higher price point from the previous PRX watches and that is understandable given that it is an automatic chronograph, which is a decidedly more complex entity than a typical three hander.

In this watch, the movement is called, in Tissot nomenclature – the Valjoux A05.H31 calibre, which to the typical watch geek should be understood as the Valjoux 7753.

Now this movement tends to appear in chronographs that have a more vintage inspired motivation, since the chronographs of the mid last century tended to the 3,6 and 9 sub-dial layout instead of the 6, 9 and 12 of the Valjoux 7750 which started to appear more widely towards the middle of the 1980’s.

It’s a more symmetrical layout for the sub-dials, which is a nice aesthetic choice that goes well with the vintage aesthetics of the PRX line, as does the reversal of the colours of the sub-dial against the backdrop of the main dial, which gives the “panda” or “reverse-panda” effect. 

Both launch models showcase this, including the one with a vertically brushed blue dial contrasted with white counters, and the other with a vertically brushed white dial contrasted with black counters and with rose gold indices.

Aside from the time and chronograph indications, the watch also conveniently comes with a date window at the 4.30 o’clock position on the dial, making this a useful everyday watch. Interestingly, the background color of the date wheel is different in both models. With the blue dial variant, the date background is white, which contrasts with the blue dial, and somewhat proclaims its affinity with the white chronograph sub-dials as being the complicated aspects of the watch. In the white model, the date window has a white background, which allows it to blend in more and just be there when needed. 

Related to this, it also has the Valjoux 7753 quirk of having the date pusher corrector on the case at the 11 o’clock position since no date adjustment is possible through the crown. 

The PRX Automatic Chronograph as to be expected and being of the same family has the angular 70’s era style case that we’ve seen before, but this time it’s bigger at 42mm in order to fit the larger chronograph calibre within, with a correspondingly beefier bracelet since everything is larger overall. In effect then, it gives an additional option for those who were keen on the original PRX, but who want something more, either in size, or in complication, yet retaining the sport elegant feel of the original.

Price-wise, it comes in at an aggressive SGD2,550 or EUR1,495, which keeps the watch in line with the affordability ethos of the Tissot brand as a whole, and the sub-SGD$1000 PRX watches that came before it. Yes it is more, but you’re getting more in this watch, and it is at the lower end of the scale when compared to watches with a similar chronograph calibre as the one here.

So, if you’ve wanted to buy a chronograph for situations where a sport elegant option is more suitable (such as for work or dressy events), it’s hard to recommend anything else. In effect, at this part of the price spectrum for luxury watches, you’re getting solid value since the watchmaking and aesthetics are top-notch. 

In fact, you really think about it, what you’re probably missing with this watch over pricier options are perhaps some bragging rights and a feeling or superiority over your fellow man. In the context of our current era of hype watch brands and models, what this watch and perhaps the entire PRX line offers, is in my view, a purer form of watch enthusiasm, that dispenses with the artificiality of status signaling, making your choice all about the watch itself rather than what people see in you when you wear it. 

Is that a good thing? Yes – I think so. 

Technical Specifications – Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Valjoux

CASE

– Diameter: 42 mm

– Steel case, burnished and satin-finish details

– Sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating and full open case back

– Water-resistant to 100 m (10 ATM)

– Engraved crown and integrated pushers

MOVEMENT

– Swiss Made Valjoux A05 H31 with a skeleton oscillating mass

– Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph

DIAL

– Blue vertical brushed dial with silver counters, and silver vertical brushed dial with black counters and rose gold indices

– Hour and minute baton hands coated with Super-LumiNova® – Hour markers in appliqué

BRACELET

– Steel bracelet, single link with interchangeable system – Triple-blade folding steel clasp

A watch from the 70s is easily recognisable purely through its appearance, and has led to some of the most beloved watches today. With this period firmly in mind, Tissot has created the PRX Automatic, one that blends elements of watch design of the 70s with wearer-friendly features for the fashionistas of today.

Following on from the quartz-powered PRX, the PRX Powermatic 80 features the same great design cues – an angular tonneau shaped case with a round opening for the dial. The bezel is polished, whilst the flat surfaces of the 40mm stainless steel case feature a satin brushed finish. This play in surface finishings also extends to the facets on the edges of the case – a welcome retro addition that further cements this watch in the 70s, even though it is thoroughly modern.

The dial forms a sort of “Clous de Paris” pattern, that Tissot describes as an embossed, chequered pattern. This gives the dial its distinctive texture, playing with light, whilst giving visual interest to the face of the watch. Simple markers and baton hands make the watch very legible, with luminescent material on the markers and hands for easy reading in low-light conditions.

The bracelet is formed from single links, and is vertically satin brushed – the bracelet also follows the form of the case, integrating itself into the bottom lug of the case, and tapering towards the clasp. The bracelet is opened with a twin folding clasp with two push buttons. To further complement its sport chic nature, the watch is 100m water resistant, enabling it to travel in style with you in your everyday life.

Visible behind a mineral crystal display caseback is a Powermatic 80 movement that has previously featured heavily in Tissot’s mechanical collections. Boasting a power reserve of 80 hours, the watch not only has a long power reserve for a watch of its price point, for the watch geeks in us, the movement is equipped with a Nivachron balance spring, containing a titanium-based alloy enabling antimagnetic protection.

The Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is available in three guises – all Stainless Steel models with either a blue or black dial, and a two-tone version in Stainless Steel and rose gold PVD on the polished bezel.

Undoubtedly a groovy choice, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 represents an excellent choice at the price it is positioned at (AUD1050). This gives watch lovers some retro style, a substantial movement in terms of its power reserve and magnetic protection, and a great everyday wear. The PRX Powermatic 80, then, is all things to all watch lovers – what’s there not to like about its design, features and wearability?

Movement

Mechanical self – winding movement

Powermatic 80 calibre providing 80 hour power reserve

Nivachron Balance Spring

Dial

Embossed chequered pattern dial in blue, black or silver

Hour and minute hands coated in SuperLuminova

Case

Polished steel tapered case with satin finishes

Polished steel bezel, rose gold PVD on the silver dial version

Mineral glass back

Diameter: 40mm ; Thickness: 11.3mm

Water Resistance: 100m (10ATM)

Bracelet

Integrated satin-finish steel bracelet, single link

Triple blade folding steel clasp with two push buttons

The formula for a useful everyday watch is not rocket science. There are a bunch of ingredients that go into making one, ingredients that if included will satisfy a large majority of people.Look for example at a brand like Rolex, that has adhered to a simple formula for a vast majority of their watches – a reasonable case size and offered on a bracelet, a minimum water resistance of 100 meters, a date complication, and lumed hands. These are basic features that no one would begrudge in a watch that can be strapped on and worn everyday. We’re not talking about people who go to watch collector meetings to show off their latest tourbillons and so on.With this in mind, it’s quite a heartening thing to see the current trend of brands introducing watches on integrated bracelets, since they are more convenient to take and and off, and are also impervious to water. I am a bracelet guy, and the plethora of choices is welcome, which is why the new Tissot Gentleman, a watch that belongs to this category, caught my eye, since it not only fulfils the criteria of being a useful everyday watch, it comes with a few extra features that set it apart and make it worth considering.

The ingredients are familiar, a sweet spot case size of 40mm, a date complication, a clear and legible dial, and it comes on a bracelet or a leather strap if you prefer.What’s interesting about this watch though is that it has the Powermatic 80 movement, which, as the name implies, gives a very useful 80 hour power reserve. Why is that useful? Well, there are instances in which you might want to wear another watch for a day or two, for example most likely on the weekend. So this is a watch that you can put down while it is running on a Friday evening, and pick it up on Monday morning with enough power to carry on without skipping a beat.

I’ve covered this fact – the advantage of a long power reserve – in my article on the Mido Chronometer One, a watch that has a variant of the same movement with the same 80 hour power reserve. It’s no surprise that both brands, Tissot and Mido, would carry these related movements since they are both from the Swatch Group.One more thing that elevates the Tissot Gentleman from most other watches in the same price category, it has a silicon hairspring. What does this mean? Well, aside from making the hairspring – the regulating organ of the watch, impervious to magnetism, it can also be made more accurately and regulated more precisely than a normal one. This means that overall, it can achieve more stable and accurate chronometric performance. In fact, it is such a big deal that the word “Silicium” appears on the dial of the Tissot Gentleman. As it stands, the collection comes with three different dial colours, blue, white and black, and all variants are available on either a bracelet or a leather strap. Additionally, there is even a two-toned variant with white dial, perfect for channeling your inner 1980’s spirit.

The bracelet has a hint of the oyster style, and has the centre links polished, so that it comes across as more dressy than sporty. Additionally, the bracelet comes with a twin trigger clasp for security on the wrist.Of course being a Tissot, the price is attractive as well, being a scant SGD$1600 on a bracelet. That is a very good deal and If ever there was a reason to consider this watch over a similarly priced one from a brand outside the Swatch group that has a regular ETA or Sellita clone movement, it would be the advantages provided by the longer power reserve of 80 hours and the silicon hairspring of the Tissot Gentleman.Basically, you are getting quite a bit for your money with a watch like this. Really, then, if your needs are simple, and you want something that can get the job done without spending too much, then maybe you can look into this collection, and be satisfied.

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