At the intersection of tradition and modernity, Vacheron Constantin has been creating watches for over 260 years, capturing the zeitgeist, whilst respecting the tenets of Haute Horlogerie. From historic pocket watches like the “King Farouk” and the Ref. 57260 (made in celebration of the brand’s 260th anniversary and is the most complicated in the world), to the ever popular Overseas models, the innovative Twin Beat (with the ability to conserve power to enable 65 days of running time whilst in storage), and the numerous Les Cabinotiers pieces that combine metiers d’art and modern watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin is quietly continuing its quest for perfection in Fine Watchmaking. As 2022 commences, Vacheron Constantin releases the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface – a great 20th Century design that has been modernised to suit contemporary tastes.

A luxurious case protecting a modern looking movement, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface comes in a 41mm 18K 5N Pink Gold or 18K White Gold case, contemporary in its design with its angular lines and fluted screwed caseback. On the dial side, the watch invites curious minds to peer into the movement’s operation with its construction – the sapphire crystal dial shows incredible depth exhibiting the guilloche upper-half and a grey ring that is the date indicator – above that is a sapphire crystal holding the case matching applied hour markers. The attractive monochromatic grey tones are achieved with a NAC treatment, giving the exterior a very modern appearance, reminiscent of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar that was released in 2019. Dauphine hands complete the dial side of the watch – a very regal, yet contemporary looking choice for hands that are also colour matched to the case.

Housed within the precious metal case is the Calibre 2460 QCL/2 that is automatically wound and openworked – as mentioned previously, is given a NAC treatment to darken the appearance of its bridges and plates for a more contemporary look and feel. On the dial side, the complete calendar complication can be seen, with day and month towards the top of the dial, and date shown at the periphery of the dial, indicated by a crescent moon hand.

A moonphase indicator is located at 6 o’clock, featuring a photo-realistic moon that shows its cratered surface – the shape indicated is achieved through frosting of the sapphire crystal dial above the moonphase disc. Befitting its modernity, the moonphase indicator is so accurate that it does not require adjusting for 122 years. In addition, the movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour – a frequency considered optimal for modern watches for its ability to recover from shock and positional errors, amongst others. The plates of the movement feature Cotes de Geneve, as well as a fine straight grained finishing on the dial side where the calendar is located. Adorning the movement is a 22K gold rotor, and to top it all off, the movement is Geneva Seal certified, meaning that it is not only beautiful, but its functionality in terms of its complications, water resistance and timekeeping are also guaranteed.

Through the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, Vacheron Constantin have shown that they are capable of creating watches that pay tribute to its past – shown through decorative techniques such as the guilloche work on the dial, as well as its adherence to the strict aesthetic criteria of the Poincon de Geneve (Geneva Seal). Simultaneously, modernity through its monochromatic choice of colours, as well as utilising a movement that is tested to meet the demands of the modern consumer shows Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to modern watchmaking.

As such, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is the intersection of past and present in one watch – a juxtaposition that results in an attractive watch that is old school enough to fit in with such a storied brand, and modern enough to fit in with the cool kids on the block.

Tech Specs

References: 4020T/000G-B655, 4020T/000R-B654

Calibre: 2460 QCL/2, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, mechanical self-winding, 29mm diameter, 5.45mm thick, 40 hours of power reserve, 4Hz, 312 components, 27 Jewels, Poincon de Geneve certified timepiece

Indications: Hours, minutes, complete calendar (day of the week, date, month), precision moon phase

Case: 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold, 41mm diameter, 10.7mm thick, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar

Dial: Assembled in three parts (slate grey guilloche upper part, slate grey opaline flange, sapphire crystal with 18K gold hour-markers), 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold applied hour-markers, hour & minutes hands, 18K gold blackened date hand with white crescent

Strap: Grey alligator leather with calf inner shell, tone on tone stitching, square scales

Buckle: 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold buckle, polished half Maltese cross-shaped

His team’s run would be from the less-known North-East Ridge approach of the mountain, seeking to establish a new route up the mountain. Although unsuccessful due to adverse weather conditions, the model that accompanied Richards and his team set this watch firmly in the minds of collectors as a watch that was ready for anything.

For 2021, this model makes a triumphant return for the lucky few in its Dual Time guise, as well as an all new Chronograph version.

In addition, the Chronograph version was photographed by Cory Richards himself, shooting it in Colorado USA, an area famous for its mountains. Richards is undoubtedly a champion for these models, stating that “To share such an enormous piece of me condensed into something so refined and beautiful is a humbling honor beyond the words I have”. It is a piece that means a lot to Richards, but also giving many watch enthusiasts an opportunity to own a dream watch that was out of reach since its unveiling. 

Overseas Dual Time “Everest”

Arguably the most appropriate complication for a watch named “Overseas”, the Overseas Dual Time “Everest” is the most faithful reproduction of the unique watch seen on Cory Richards’ wrist on his ascent of the mountain. The usual 41mm stainless steel case of the Overseas Dual Time has been reworked to add crown and pusher guards for added protection, as well as a titanium bezel, with six points that echo the Vacheron Constantin Maltese Cross.

The dial features wider hour markers at 12, 3 and 9 that are lume filled for low-light visibility (with blue light emission), and the hands also feature slightly more lume compared to the regular production. The dial also sports a grained finish in a grey-blue colour – a very attractive, and utilitarian look that contrasts with the orange home time hand and day-night indicator – speaking of home and local time, this can be adjusted through the titanium crown, forwards and backwards in 1 hour increments. At 6 o’clock, we find the date subdial, that is synchronised with the local time hand, but can be independently adjusted through a titanium pusher at 4 o’clock –  this pusher requires a quarter turn to unlock and secure, ensuring that the date is only adjusted deliberately.

The watch is delivered on a Cordura strap (grey with orange contrast stitching), with a second strap in grey rubber – easily interchanged through the Overseas’ quick change system.

Housed within the Overseas Dual Time “Everest” is the in-house 5110 DT/2, a variant of the original movement found in the regular production Overseas Dual Time, but with NAC coated bridges that give the movement a darkened appearance with an anthracite grey colouring (most of the time, this movement is rhodium plated and has a lighter silvery colour). Specific to this line of watches in the Vacheron Constantin collection, they feature slightly thicker bridges for greater strength in their construction. The movement also features a 22K gold rotor with a relief engraving of the mountain inspired by a photograph taken by Cory Richards. Befitting a manufacturer of Haute Horlogerie, the movement is Poincon de Geneve certified, a mark of its fine finishing, as well as its reliability and functionality.

Overseas Chronograph “Everest”

Taking the sporty nature of the chronograph, and using design cues from the original model, the Overseas Chronograph “Everest” edition brings a harder edge to the Overseas Chronograph. With a slight redesign, the case now incorporates crown and pusher guards, protecting the titanium pushers and crown, whilst remaining at a 42.5mm diameter. Also featuring a bezel in the Maltese Cross motif, the case features the same bi-metal, stainless steel and titanium construction as the Dual Time model.

The dial features enlarged hour markers compared with the original Overseas Chronograph, most notably at 12, 3, 6 and 9. This aids with night visibility with its blue light emission. The dial also features the same grained finishing in a grey-blue colouring, with orange chronograph hands for the central seconds as well as the hour and minute chronograph counter hands.

The date can be found tucked away at 4:30 with a colour matched date wheel to blend in with the grey-blue dial. The watch is delivered on a Cordura strap, and a second strap in grey rubber – both are easily interchanged through the quick change system seen on many current generation Overseas models.

Housed within the stainless steel and titanium case is the in-house calibre 5200/2, differing from the original model with a NAC treatment that gives the baseplate a more contemporary look with an anthracite grey colouring, compared to the traditional rhodium plating seen in other movements. The watch, like the Dual Time in this collection, features a 22K gold rotor with a relief engraving of the mountain inspired by Richards’ photograph, and the movement bears the Geneva Seal, a mark of its point of origin, as well as its finishing and functionality.

These new additions to the Overseas line are a boutique limited edition of 150 pieces for each of the Dual Time and the Chronograph. Whilst this may disappoint some watch fans, it is great to see that a well-received prototype is being produced by Vacheron Constantin. In a way, listening to its fans has produced what will arguably be one of the most coveted models by the brand, and will prove to be hot property for years to come.

Tech Specs

Overseas Dual Time “Everest”

Reference: 7910V/000T-B922 

Caliber: 5110 DT/2, Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin Mechanical, self-winding, NAC treatment, 22K pink gold Overseas oscillating weight with Everest engraving 30.6 mm (131⁄4’’’) diameter, 6 mm thick, approximately 60 hours of power reserve, 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour), 234 components, 37 jewels, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Indications: Hours and minutes, central seconds, second timezone, set by the crown, day/night (AM/PM) indication at 9 o’clock, synchronised with home time, date at 6 o’clock – synchronised with local time, set by pusher 

Case: Titanium and stainless steel, 41 mm diameter, 12.8 mm thick, bezel, crown, pusher guards and pushers in titanium, bezel-ring in stainless steel, screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock pushers, transparent sapphire crystal caseback water-resistant tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150 meters) 

Dial: Grey-blue grained dial, 18K gold applied hour-markers, 18K gold hours, minutes, seconds and counters hands, orange dual time hands, hours-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova® 

Straps: Grey Cordura® fabric with Orange stitching, featuring a black nubuck leather lining, delivered with a second strap in grey rubber 

Clasp: Titanium/Stainless steel folding clasp 

Overseas Chronograph “Everest”

Reference: 5510V/000T-B923  

Caliber: 5200/2, Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, mechanical, self-winding, 22K pink gold, Overseas oscillating weight, 30.6 mm (131⁄4’’’) diameter, 6.6 mm thick, approximately 52 hours of power reserve, 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour), 263 components, 54 jewels, Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece 

Indications: Hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, date, column-wheel chronograph (30-minute and 12-hour counters) 

Case: Titanium and stainless steel, 42.5 mm diameter, 13.7 mm thick, bezel, crown, pusher guards and pushers in titanium, bezel-ring in stainless steel, screwed-down crown and quarter-turn screw-lock pushers, transparent sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant tested at a pressure of 15 bar (approx. 150 metres) 

Dial: Grey-blue grained dial, 18K gold applied hour-markers, 18K gold hours, minutes, seconds and counters hands, orange chronograph hands, hour-markers and hours & minutes hands highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova® 

Straps: Grey Cordura® fabric with Orange stitching, featuring a black nubuck leather lining, delivered with a second strap in grey rubber 

Clasp: Titanium/Stainless steel folding clasp

Overseas Collection for 2021

The Overseas Collection sees new metal variations for the existing models: Overseas Tourbillon, Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Skeleton.

The Overseas Tourbillon sees a new metal addition in the form of a pink gold version that adds an unprecedented level of bling to this model (previously, this model was only available in stainless steel). The tones of gold give the blue dial a warmer feel, and the pink gold case and bracelet adds to the heft and its value.

Housed within the Overseas Tourbillon is the Calibre 2160, beating at a traditional 2.5Hz, but with a modern automatic winding system through a peripheral rotor that enables a better view of the construction of the movement, and the finishing of its components. Included with the watch are two additional straps in blue calf leather with grey stitching and a rubber strap – both of which come with pink gold pin buckles.

The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin for 2021 now sees a “stealth wealth” model in white gold, much like when the new version of the Overseas was revealed in 2016. This new model for 2021 is executed completely in white gold, including its case and bracelet. Sporting an on-trend blue lacquered dial, the model is cool and restrained, exuding effortless style. Housed within the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin is the Calibre 1120 QP/1 with 48 month date display, utilising the famed JLC base 920 movement originally used by the Holy Trinity in the early days of the luxury sports watch. As with all Overseas models, this comes with two straps, rubber and calf, with a pin buckle matching the case and bracelet of the watch.

The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Skeleton is now available in white gold with a blue dial, and will be a boutique exclusive. Its dial is made of sapphire crystal, in order to expose the openworked movement within. This movement is the same as the Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin, except for the fact that it is skeletonised, and given a NAC treatment to darken the bridges and plates of the movement. The gold tones of the calendar wheels give this model visual points of interest, and draw the viewer closer to the watch, to inspect the finely finished levers, springs, plates and bridges of the openworked movement. This watch also uses a version of the famed JLC Cal. 920, albeit masterfully skeletonised by Vacheron Constantin. Like all the Overseas watches released this year, it comes with two additional straps with buckles that match the case – textured rubber and calf leather.

Traditionelle Split Second Chronograph

The new Traditionelle collection was created to further the pursuit of watchmaking excellence, and in 2021, this is no exception, with the unveiling of the Traditionelle Split Second Chronograph. This watch has been given the “Excellence Platine” treatment, with its case, dial, buckle and the stitching of the strap executed in 950 Platinum. Timekeeping functions like the hour, minute, running seconds hands and the hour markers are furnished in white gold, whilst the split chronograph hands, minute totaliser, and the power reserve hand are in blued steel.

Housed within the 42.5mm 950 Platinum case is the in-house Calibre 3500 – this calibre was specifically made for the 260th Anniversary in 2015, making its debut in the Harmony collection. The movement features a monopusher chronograph with split seconds function – no mean feat for a watch brand to create. The watch is delivered on an alligator strap, and is limited to 15 pieces worldwide.

Metiers d’Art Tribute to Great Explorers

This curious collection pays tribute to the great explorers from Portugal who encountered various landmasses during their journeys, as well as a continuation of the Great Explorers series from the early 2000s. A true display of watchmaking art, the dials are two pieces crafted in beige Grand Feu Enamel, and feature miniature paintings of the countries particular to that explorer.

The paintings themselves are inspired by the ancient nautical charts of the Miller Atlas from 16th Century Portugal, of which a reproduction is on display in the Maritime Museum of Lisbon. Each watch features a segment of the atlas that was discovered by these explorers – the dial featuring Africa is in tribute to Bartolomeu Dias, who encountered South Africa, the dial featuring the Eastern part of Africa and India honours Vasco Da Gama, and the dial featuring Brazil commemorates Pedro Alvares Cabral.

The countries are outlined in gold powder, and the details are painstakingly hand painted. Executed in 4N pink gold, that has a less red hue than most pink golds, they house the automatic winding Calibre 1120 AT, with rotating satellites for the hour that tell the time by proximity to the minutes to the right of the dial. All three of these watches will be boutique exclusive, and are limited to 10 pieces each.

These new releases for Vacheron Constantin represent a fresh take on some existing models, breathing new life into them, whilst introducing new variants that should appeal to a wide clientele base, renewing interest in the world of Vacheron Constantin

Exactly 100 years ago in 1921, Vacheron Constantin created a limited number of timepieces for the American market, that were designed specifically for the automobile driver. Reportedly, two different models were made, and only 12 examples of each watch were made. What made these watches peculiar compared to normal watches was that the dial, and indeed the movement itself was rotated at an angle. This enabled the driver to take a glance at their wrist for the time without the need for them to take their hands off of the wheel. 

The watch was truly a piece for the period – an oxymoronic, Gatsby-esque creation for the Roaring Twenties that conceived a seemingly useless solution that a gentleman automobile driver could never do without. In modern terms, it is rather like cup holders in the cars of today – it is so superfluous until you realise its utility and you could never imagine driving without it.

In 2021, the Historiques American 1921 celebrates its 100th Anniversary, and as such, Vacheron Constantin have decided to celebrate with three new models based on the relaunched model originally seen at SIHH 2009 – one in platinum and two in white gold.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine

Commemorative models from Vacheron Constantin are often given the “All Platinum” treatment, and for 2021, it is the turn of the Historiques American 1921 to be given this treatment. Dubbed “Collection Excellence Platine”, this subset of the collection has much of the exterior components crafted from 950 Platinum. Its polished case and sand-blasted dial are made from this precious material, as well as the ardillon/pin buckle and even the strap stitching are hewn from Platinum.

The Breguet numerals and Breguet hands are crafted from 18k White Gold, and the seconds hand is made of blued steel for a small pop of colour on the dial. In addition, to further cement the “All Platinum” treatment, the dial is marked with Pt950 – the hallmark of a piece produced in platinum. All of this gives the watch a very sober look, however, it is all about looking at the finer details executed in platinum – from case, to the dial, pin buckle and the stitching of the strap.  

Befitting such an exclusive timepiece, the Historiques American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine will be limited to 100 pieces worldwide, and available only at Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 in White Gold – 40mm and 36.5mm

The collection sees a new case material variant added to the 40mm and 36.5mm models – 18k White Gold. The watches are given a silver toned dial with black Breguet numerals and minutes track, as well as blackened Breguet hands for the hours and minutes that are also made of white gold. The seconds hand is also similarly crafted of white gold, blackened and housed within a subdial with a snailed finish.

In combination with all other dial details, the dark details of the dial and hands maximises contrast and gives it a clear, readable look. Mounted onto both the 40mm and the 36.5mm models is a calf leather strap by Serapian, made in their workshops in Milan. On the 40mm model, the strap is brown with a faded patina effect, whilst the 36.5mm version comes on a burgundy-coloured strap with the brown strap included as an additional extra. 

Whether you prefer the 40mm or the 36.5mm model, the new Historiques American 1921 in White Gold present a stealthier variant of a classic Vacheron Constantin model that has long been admired by enthusiasts.

Calibre 4400AS

Housed within the new collections is the Calibre 4400AS that has been lauded as one of Vacheron Constantin’s finest movements – by none other than the independent watchmaking superstar Kari Voutilainen himself, reviewing the movement in an archived post on The Hour Lounge in 2008. Boasting a power reserve of 65 hours, running at 4Hz and bearing the Geneva Seal, the manual-winding movement is finished beautifully, with precise anglage, well-defined Cotes de Geneve as well as perlage that is visible underneath the balance wheel. Voutilainen was particularly impressed with its logical layout and construction, as well as its fine finishing for a movement that has been deployed across much of the Vacheron Constantin collection. The Calibre 4400AS is therefore one of the finest movements that exists across the Holy Trinity of brands, and any watch that houses this movement is sure to remain strong and serviceable for decades to come.

The new models in the Historiques American 1921 collection, then, represents an evolution of a line that has evoked the Dandy Gentleman of the 1920s and the era of Art Deco. It also has something for the woman searching for a watch with horological prowess behind it, past and present. 

The 1920s was seen as a break from tradition, and the unorthodox design of the Historiques 1921 accurately reflects the ingenuity of the era. As such, the current and new models of the Historiques 1921 collection, then, are a pertinent reminder of the prosperity of the 1920s – with their pioneering spirit and fine craftsmanship ensuring Vacheron Constantin’s success as much then as it does today.

With this being said, the one element that has been the talk of our industry, especially in the first half of 2020, was that of the tradeshow. Adi Soon, our editor has written extensively about his opinions on the demise of Baselworld (see his article: The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is Finally Dead), as well as the writer of this article (see Martin Goh’s article: Opinion – Baselworld’s Demise and the Meaning of Privilege).

The future of the watch industry tradeshow seemed very much in doubt last year, with cancellations and “postponements” being a result of the global health crisis – however, one tradeshow went ahead, and showed the possibility that brands bring the impetus needed to a digital version of a tradeshow, and this was Watches and Wonders, formerly the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

Four brands that arguably have the largest pull factor to the show – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex effectively heralded the death of Baselworld, with many of their executives expressing their dismay at the fair. In particular, Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe summed up their feeling as such: “Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present”. As Wined Dined and Timed has written, much of the industry is based on gentlemen’s agreements, agreements that were very much violated during the “postponement” phase of Baselworld during the pandemic.

However, the 2020 edition of Watches and Wonders proved that a digital watch tradeshow can exist, and be successful. Furthermore, a press release dated in November 2020 from the organising committee of Watches and Wonders also shows the future of the watch tradeshow – with the continued pandemic raging in Europe, a digital version of the show was a no-brainer. Curiously, the 4 brands that were supposed to have a show concurrent to Watches and Wonders have now signed on to exhibit at Watches and Wonders – Chanel, Chopard, Patek Philippe and Rolex. This not only demonstrates the viability of the digital tradeshow, but also the level of trust between the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and the 4 brands that left Baselworld. There is also no doubt that these brands will bring many more visitors to the digital tradeshow, given that their presence at Baselworld drew most of the crowds for watches.

There is no doubt that brands have changed their ways of communication during the pandemic, and rightfully so. However, I do not believe that a digital-only tradeshow or unveiling will be the way of the future. There will always be a place in the luxury industry for physical gatherings, and where possible, these will occur so that journalists and enthusiasts can touch, feel and experience the product. Watches are a part of the luxury industry that still needs physical presence for the watch to have an effect on the viewer, and so I believe that tradeshows will go back to being physical tradeshows when possible, but include much more digital interactivity than ever before. Unveilings may be made live, like with the recent Hublot x Murakami piece that was released at LVMH Watch Week in 2021, and keynote speakers may feature again, like at SIHH 2019 (recommended viewing: https://youtu.be/M9Pqi-QMoQw – Max Busser’s Keynote at SIHH 2019). 

The operation of a simultaneous digital and physical tradeshow will bring much more attendance through the following means – journalists and enthusiasts are brought together in one place to broadcast the new releases, and watch connoisseurs on far-flung sides of the Earth can enjoy the media and created content at their convenience. In this way, it is really a win-win situation for all parties involved – even the brands get more impressions on their pieces. Now, it just comes down to how much the brands are willing to invest into such an omni-channel experience. We can only hope that the brands see the value in this omni-channel method, from first viewing (online through watch media or through advertising) all the way to final purchase that can occur months or years down the line.

Since the troubles of 2020 resulted in the cancellation of all my vacations, I convinced myself that wonderful memories can also be had through the acquisition of a timepiece. I may not be able to travel overseas, but I could certainly get an Overseas.

It was an easy sell. I love the dazzling blue dial and the versatility of the interchangeable straps. The problem was trying to decide which model. While I am very much into chronographs, I found the 5500V a little too large at 42.5mm. The Dual Time 7900V, while practical, seemed a little bulky at 12.8mm and its asymmetry takes some attention away from the dial finish. Sure, there were other models like the ultra-thin perpetual and the tourbillon that are absolutely stunning, but I wasn’t ready to put down that kind of money. After much deliberation, not that there were many options left, I decided on the base model 4500V, and boy am I glad I did

The Boutique Experience

My wife had previously purchased a restored vintage piece from the boutique, so we got familiar with the folks there. Given that my other purchases had been either through authorised or pre-owned dealers, buying from a boutique turned out to be quite an experience. I lost count of the number of watches I had tried on over numerous months at both boutiques, but I never felt pressured to make a purchase. The boutique staff were always patient and accommodating.

As it would have to be, by the time I finally decided that I would get the watch, there was already an increased demand for it. Where you could readily walk into a dealer or boutique and buy it immediately, now there seemed to a global shortage in supply, and I had to be placed on a waiting list. I am not a patient man by nature and having to wait for my watch to arrive was, I suppose, character-building. I was consoled by the fact that as opposed to others trying to obtain a Nautilus 5711, I will actually be able to get my watch

And it really wasn’t too bad. My watch finally arrived after a little over 2 months, thanks to the efforts of Zhao Nan, the long-suffering assistant boutique manager who had to endure my frequent hounding. With much anticipation and excitement, my wife and I made a date out of the morning of the collection, heading down to Marina Bay Sands for breakfast before punctually arriving at the boutique the very minute it opened. She was, of course, wearing her pink 37mm Overseas to match my latest acquisition.

And there it was, right in front of me: my watch, laid out in all its glory. Zhao Nan congratulated me on my purchase, showed me everything that came within the beautifully inlaid and lacquered box, then proceeded to make the necessary adjustments to the bracelet and straps. In the meantime, I was admiring the timepiece sans strap, moving the case from side to side to watch the light perform magic on the case and dial.

The leather strap was customised with my choice of stitching, and I opted for a lighter shade of blue to contrast the navy alligator, with a hint of bright red at the very tip as an added quirky detail. I chose to wear the watch on the bracelet, in part to match my wife’s choice of strap that day, but mostly because I was keen to experience the shine of it on my wrist once we got outside. Special care was taken to avoid painfully scratching any part of it within the first hour of ownership. My wife repeatedly says that I am obsessed with keeping my watches in pristine condition. I freely admit to the abovementioned charge. I would like to put on record, however, that she is not so different, and that is why we make the perfect couple.

Living with the Overseas

Let’s start with the pièce de resistance: the dial. While it lacks the historically significant texture of the tapisserie on the Royal Oak or the status-defining horizontal embossed stripes of the Nautilus, the Overseas more than makes up for it with their interpretation of a blue dial that is simply dazzling. Pictures do no justice to it; you must see it in the metal. Not unlike the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu, the dial looks like it has a layer of translucent blue lacquer over a black polished plate. It takes on different shades under different lighting conditions, appearing almost black in darker environments and an electric blue under intense sunlight. I find myself glancing at it more frequently than expected when outdoors.

As with most steel sports watches with an integrated bracelet, the case does sit large on the wrist, although the tapered edges and sloped bezel give it a rather slim appearance and wraps comfortably around my small wrist. The bracelet cleverly carries on the Maltese cross motif and offers the level of refinement you would expect from this member of the trinity. I freely admit that the bracelet design cannot quite match the original Genta masterpiece in pageantry, but I have found it more comfortable to wear and can withstand the rigours of daily usage better. Both design and practicality trump the Nautilus, in this humble writer’s opinion.

As well-crafted as the bracelet is, I am likely to wear it most frequently on the included rubber strap. This is meant to be a sports watch after all, and a more muted, casual look is preferred on days that you want to bask in the hot tropical sun. To remind me of the luxury status of the watch, a polished Maltese cross serves as the deployant clasp. Ending the day with a slightly fancy dinner? No problem. I simply rinse off my 150 metre water-resistant Overseas, pop off the rubber strap, replace it with my customised alligator option and I am good to go.

On occasion, I found much pleasure in admiring the in-house 5100 movement through the exhibition back. Polished and bevelled screws hold down the Côtes de Genève decorated movement, the view partially obscured by the 22k gold rotor engraved with a compass rose. Zhao Nan was proud to inform me that the movement and the case both bear the Hallmark of Geneva certification. While that does not have any practical bearing, it does instil a sense of pride in owning a timepiece that has been finished to the highest standards

Final thoughts

When looking for a luxury steel sports watch, the average consumer gravitates towards the usual suspects. Vacheron Constantin has largely been ignored in this segment, in part due to the lack of historical success for the Overseas line-up. Even though the Jorg Hysek designed Ref. 222 is popular amongst vintage collectors, it has never found much fame compared to the timeless Gerald Genta designs. As such, the brand had to fight an uphill battle to establish itself in this arena. I, for one, have not been a fan of the previous iterations of the Overseas.

The third generation models have, I think, finally hit the nail on the head. The winning combination of handsome looks and versatility finally makes the Overseas a serious contender in this decades-long rivalry. Perhaps the lack of initial success prompted Vacheron Constantin to put in extra effort in improving its design to set itself apart, while its competitors continue to enjoy the fruits of Genta’s works for the last 40 odd years. Reverence and admiration for legendary icons is great, but what I would like to experience is the birth of a future classic. And I would like to believe that I am wearing one right now.

This launch by Vacheron Constantin, however, falls into neither category. Here, we have the Égérie, a collection designed for the modern lady, by a female designer in the manufacture. Of course, this is not its first specially-designed ladies’ collection, for the manufacture has been capturing the spirit and style of women through the different eras and instilling their essence in the various remarkable pieces that have appeared for over a century.

The NameThe Égérie collection is named after the nymph Egeria from Roman mythology – a beauty who inspired and bestowed sacred wisdom to Numa Pompilius, Rome’s second king. She was in fact, believed to be the main reason for Rome’s prosperity and peace during King Numa’s 42-year reign. Like its namesake, the Égérie collection draws from both the beauty of Haute Couture and the deep watchmaking knowledge of Vacheron Constantin, building the world of a “Haute Manufacture”.

The DesignFrom a design perspective, the collection is well-conceived, working beautifully as the modern reinterpretation of the Manufacture’s long history of off-centred displays featuring two intertwined circles. The asymmetrical concentric circles on the dial and the subtle diagonal line formed by the positioning of the crown between 1 and 2 o’clock, and the Vacheron Constantin logo, in sum, form the letter E of the logo of the collection – a very nice touch.The dial features various haute couture elements: a pleated pattern on the opaline silver dial made with the tapestry technique; a diamond halo on the bezel which resembles slender braiding; leaf-shaped hands that look like embroidery needles; as well as gracefully scripted numerals that are like scalloped lace.

Three Models and Two ComplicationsThere are three pieces in total: the self-winding and the moon phase (each with the option of a 18k 5N gold case with 3 self-interchangeable leather straps, or stainless steel with a matching bracelet); and lastly, a moon phase in diamond pavé.

On first impression, I was surprised at how the diamonds worked seamlessly into the overall look of the pieces, without overwhelming the other interesting elements. The stainless steel versions, in particular, seem sturdy enough for everyday wear.Something else that I really appreciate is the new system of interchangeable leather straps that is extremely easy to use. With a simple push and click, the wearer can switch up the look of the 18k gold models with either a night blue, chestnut, or raspberry pink strap. All the straps are equipped with their own 18k 5N gold buckles – a big hurray for long finger nails and zero tools!With regards to the date complications – there are two groups of watch wearers – those who need the date function, for practical reasons, and those who hate it, for aesthetic reasons. I belong to the former, since for me, form must always follow function. This makes the Égérie self-winding very appealing to me. Secondly, the manner in which the date complication is so beautifully blended in the dial, in an uncommon location within the circle at 2 o’clock is at once idiosyncratic as it is pure. My only quip is that it is sized at 35mm – a tiny bit too small for my wrist. I am sure that it will fit nicely on most ladies’ slender wrists though, so this is purely a matter of preference.The other complication featured here is one that I am sure will appeal to some ladies – the moon phase. Appearing at the top circle, the 18k gold moon set against a starry sky appears and disappears behind dreamy clouds made of mother-of-pearl. Also, it is sized nicely at 37mm, which I feel is the perfect size for a complication like this.The last of the collection is the arresting moonphase in diamond-pavé, which takes things a step further, being embellished with 510 diamonds on the dial and 292 diamonds on the case (totalling up to 4.85ct), topped by a 0.17 ct rose-cut diamond.

Beating within the series are the calibres 1088 and 1088L respectively. The sapphire crystal case-back displays proudly its haute horlogerie finishing, a hand-crafted Côtes de Genève motif, as well as the signature of the Manufacture, the openwork 22k gold oscillating weight inspired by the shape of the Maltese cross.What will come next, since there is a nice space in the dial tailor-made for other complications?  Just a guess – may a second timezone or a power reserve indicator? I’m curious to see what the Manufacture will be doing with this new series, which could very well evolve into an iconic one in its own right.

The Égérie collection is available in Vacheron Constantin boutiques from the 1st of March 2020.

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Their unique shape are what gives the watch its name since “Cornes De Vache” translates from the French to “cow horns”. Even though similarly shaped lugs on other watches might be described as “tear-drop” shaped, in this watch they are done in a way so that only the tops are rounded and curvaceous, which contrasts with the resolutely vertical sides.

The Historiques collection are modern recreations of historic pieces, hence the name, and the Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 was inspired by the reference 6087 from 1955. This was a watch that was significant for being the only manually-wound, water-resistant chronograph from the vintage era of Vacheron Constantin.

The initial Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 in platinum was followed by a pink gold version of the watch in 2016, and they came with the Calibre 1142, a manually wound, column wheel, horizontal clutch chronograph movement based on the respected Lemania 2310. This is a movement that has found its way into many notable watches over the years, from the Omega Speedmaster with its calibre 321, and also several signature models from Patek Philippe. In this version from Vacheron Constantin, one finds the brand’s aesthetic decoration applied, as well as unique touches like a column wheel with a Maltese cross. Of course, it is also Geneva Seal certified, with the stringent criteria of the Watchmaking School of Geneva guaranteeing a high level of aesthetic finish as well as technical performance of the watch.

Add a classical but modern size of 38.5mm (which incidentally is the same size as the Lange 1) and what you have is a fantastic watch that hits all the right notes.
Now for 2019, we have a new model that departs from its precious metal predecessors and comes in stainless steel instead, and with a grey-opaline dial.

But wait, haven’t we seen a stainless steel Corne De Vache before?
There was indeed a stainless steel version of this watch made before, and that was the Limited Edition for Hodinkee in 2017.

You might remember the furore surrounding its release when many complained how it had been sold out within 30 minutes of its release. That watch was notable for being in stainless steel which no doubt was part of the reason why the 36-piece limited edition was so popular.

The success of that watch might have made Vacheron Constantin sit up and take notice about the potential of this jewel in their collection. Perhaps as well, they thought that it might be good to give those who missed out with the Hodinkee limited edition, a chance to buy another Cornes De Vache in stainless steel.

Whatever the reasoning behind the scenes, there is no doubt that this watch will do well. Aside from the instantly lovable looks of the “Cornes De Vache”, what a buyer will appreciate about the new watch is the relatively uncommon usage of stainless steel within the Vacheron Constantin collection. Not to mention the lower price that the watch is offered at compared to the precious metal variants. This new version comes with a silver opaline dial with a tachymeter scale, as opposed to the Hodinkee edition, which had a slate grey dial and a pulsation scale. This is very much in keeping in line with the platinum and pink gold versions that also had a tachymeter scale. So buyers of the Hodinkee edition can rest easy on the uniqueness of their watches.

The blued steel chronograph and 30-minute counter hands are a very nice touch with the watch, and make the chronograph functions distinct from the time telling, hour, minute and seconds hands that are in 18 white gold. 18K white gold is also used in the applied hour-markers and Roman numerals
All in all, this is a classically appointed chronograph in the way that Vacheron Constantin does so well. It even measures only up to 30 minutes and has no date complication, a move that will please the hard-core purists, in wanting a dial presentation with symmetry.

Rounding off what you get with this version, is a dark brown calf leather with Serapian patina, with a calf leather inner shell and tone on tone stitching, a perfect match to the vintage aesthetic.

The best thing about this watch though is that it will not not be limited, although it will probably be limited by production. Something tells me however that it might be quite difficult to get hold of. Why? Just look it. How could you not want this watch if you can afford the $60,000 SGD price tag?

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The new Overseas line kept to the same playbook, with stainless steel options available on a bracelet, and focusing on more everyday complications, such as the worldtimer, time with date, chronograph, and dual time. 

As nice as the new Overseas collection was, I could not help but feel that something was missing. Despite the fact that they were built more robustly than their dress watches, I could not shake off the impression that they were still designed for a man in a suit in mind, still in a somewhat formal setting, albeit in a foreign land.

What about a Vacheron Constantin for an adventurer, or one that could be a little more casual, and less conservative? I could not for the life of me imagine what a watch like that would look like until I saw this. 

My first reaction? Wow. My second reaction? I want this.  

This watch is a prototype Overseas Dual Time made for Cory Richards, photographer, adventurer, explorer and one of the personalities in Vacheron Constantin’s “One of not many” campaign. 

He wore this watch as part of a recent Everest summit bid, and so he chose the Overseas Dual Time for its ability to track his home time in the United States as well as his local time in Nepal during his recent Everest summit bid.  

So let’s remind you of what a normal Overseas Dual Time looks like.

How is this watch different? Well, it is mainly by having aesthetics that come about from a performance oriented mindset in its creation. For starters the 41mm case is made mainly from titanium, with a touch tantalum included to reinforce the bezel, which you can see in the picture below (it is a slightly different colour from the titanium). Being part of the Overseas collection of course, this watch was also made to go on a matching titanium bracelet. Furthermore, a mission specific grey strap of Ventile waterproof fabric with orange stitching was also added. 

Then there is the unique grained textured grey dial that matches the strap, carrying large hour markers at the 3, 9 and 12 hour positions with correspondingly large lume plots, all the better to see the time easily during freezing nights on Everest. This and the titanium case, possibly a material chosen when every gram counts when you’re hauling your gear up a mountain, indicate a more hard-core attitude when there is no time for wasting time because survival is paramount. 

High visibility orange accents pepper the dial, from the pointer hand that indicate AM/PM (in your home time) to the 12-hour basis Dual Time hand. Even the little triangle on the edge of the bezel is in orange, and that points to the crown that corrects the date indication. 

Round the back, there is a beautifully hand engraved rotor – with a view of Everest from one of Cory Richard’s photographs. 

Specification wise, it’s not hard to see that Vacheron Constantin have not held back in creating the ultimate explorer’s watch. Heck, everything it can do basically matches up to the legendary Rolex Explorer 2, with the large centrally mounted orange hand basically saying as much. And given that we know that Cory Richards wore this watch on his recent summit bid up Mount Everest, we know that it is tough enough to survive the rigours of adventure. 

The crazy thing in all this is that Vacheron Constantin has no plans to produce the watch. 

I’m guessing however that they showed it to find out what the world would think of a watch like this. You don’t mess about when you’re the custodian of a brand like Vacheron Constantin, by releasing a watch that moves so far away from your core aesthetic. Best to avoid a dangerous mistake by showing a prototype this way and see how collectors take to it, with a real watch that may or may not be produced in series.   

You want your answer Vacheron Constantin? Make this watch – it is fantastic. Or if not, make watches like this for your Overseas line in the future.   

Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual

It has been a few years now since blue dials have been the go-to for brands for their new launches, and it doesn’t look like our fascination with the colour is fading off, despite it being the “Year of green watches” this 2019. However, not everyone does it like Vacheron Constantin – especially the mesmerising deep blue shade for the Patrimony line.

One of the most iconic perpetual calendars around, the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin gets a new face, the same midnight blue specially created for the Patrimony line. The result, a modern and fresh twist to the usually classical-looking piece. Prior to this, the previous editions were in white and slate grey dials (with pink gold case) and platinum dial with platinum case (under the Excellence Palatine collection).

With a combination of the sunburst satin-finish convex deep blue dial and rose gold accents, the highly-legible watch is a joy to look at both in hand and on wrist. The finishing touch, a moonphase display made with champlevé enamel done with ultra-precise firing at a high temperature of approximately 1,000°C sits at 6 o’clock.

The other details on the dial are what we are familiar with and love for the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin pieces – the circular “pearl” minute track; solid 18k 5N pink gold applied hour markers and hands; day of the week at 9 o’clock; month and leap year on 48-month counters at 12 o’clock.

Despite its slightly larger size at 41mm, it sits comfortably at a super slim profile of only 8.9mm thick thanks to the 1120 QP caliber, which is based on the design of the slim automatic movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audermars Piguet’s 2120 calibre in the original 5402 Royal Oak Jumbo. Sealed with the Hallmark of Geneva, the movement is intricately decorated with an openwork hand-skeletonised rotor and polished bevels.

This version comes with a matching deep blue alligator strap and 18k pink gold folding clasp, and retails at SGD116,900/ EUR80,000.

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