Pilot Big Date Flyback

Taking centre stage for the Pilots collection this year is a watch containing a complication dedicated for use by pilots. The new Pilot Big Date Flyback incorporates a “retour en vol” system for the chronograph – essentially, while the chronograph is running, pushing the reset button will allow for the chronograph to fly back to zero, and immediately start a new timing event. The two variants measure 42.5mm in diameter and come in stainless steel and black ceramic variants – the latter of which takes its inspiration from the past, whilst the ceramic version is firmly anchored in the present.

The stainless steel version of the two watches takes inspiration from the original Rainbow Flyback that was originally released in 1997. For ease of reading, the minutes subdial had its 5 minute intervals in alternating colours so that it would be easily distinguished – a design trait that carries over to the 2023 model. Another design quirk are the chronograph hands done in bright orange, again to aid in legibility. In contrast, the black ceramic model is monochromatic – the darkness of the corrugated dial against the white Arabic numerals, markers, date indication and chronograph subdials provide stark contrast for the watch, giving it excellent legibility. 

Turning the watch over, we see the El Primero 3652, a movement that incorporates not only a flyback chronograph beating at 5Hz, but also a big date mechanism that is unique to Zenith. Featuring a compliant mechanism for the two date discs, it advances and stabilises the discs within 0.03 seconds, changing the date faster than the blink of an eye. Automatically wound, the watch is powered through a rotor that takes its design inspiration from the artificial horizon readout in modern cockpits.

The watches are delivered on black rubber straps with a cordura effect – the black ceramic version is also delivered with a khaki rubber strap with cordura effect, and the steel version also comes with a brown leather strap. Both also come with a deployant buckle for ease of use, and are also equipped with a strap quick-change system to swap out the look of your watch with ease.

Pilot Automatic

A 40mm case in stainless steel or black ceramic provides the Pilot Automatic a robust platform for an aviator’s instrument for the wrist, and its distinct flat-top bezel is reminiscent of many pilots’ watches of the past. The stainless steel version has flat surfaces that are satin brushed, whilst the surfaces of the black ceramic version are micro beadblasted for a spec-ops style matte finish.

The dial takes its inspiration from vintage Zenith pilots watches, but anchors the design in the present – Arabic numerals make their mark on the dial, clearly defining the hours. These are filled with SuperLuminova for optimal night-time legibility. The date window at 6 is topped with a horizontal marker – this serves to orient the watch to ensure it is read in the correct manner, as well as a design inspiration from the artificial horizon readout in cockpits. The word “pilot” sits above this marker – Zenith is the only watch brand with the right to mark its dials with “pilot”, the sign of a true pilots watch. 

Housed within the stainless steel or black ceramic case is the El Primero 3620 –  a version of the El Primero that still beats at 5Hz, but does away with the chronograph complication. The movement provides a 60 hour power reserve, and is powered by an automatic winding rotor that takes its design inspiration from the artificial horizon readout in the cockpit.

The watches are delivered on a black rubber strap with cordura effect – the black ceramic version also comes with a khaki rubber strap with cordura effect, and the stainless steel version is delivered with a brown calfskin leather strap. Fastening the watch to the wrist is a deployant clasp, and the straps can be swapped around easily thanks to a quick-change mechanism built into the strap. 

The Zenith Pilots Collection for 2023 is firmly anchored in the present, but giving subtle nods to the past – through its “Pilot” designation on the dial, its legendary movement, as well as distinctive Arabic numerals that have been thoroughly modernised.

The chronograph version reflects the utilitarianism of the late 20th Century, for when a pilot needed a complex wrist instrument to time navigation waypoints, and the automatic version harks back to when Louis Bleriot crossed the English Channel. This collection proves to be a refreshing start for this key member of the Zenith family, and continues the tradition of making the one true Pilot’s watch.

Technical Specifications

PILOT AUTOMATIC

Reference: 49.4000.3620/21.I001

Key points: El Primero 3-hands watch. High frequency movement (5Hz). Fully interchangeable strap system.
Movement: El Primero 3620, automatic
Frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Functions : Hours and minutes in the centre. Central seconds hand. Date indication at 6 o’clock. Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight
Price 9500 CHF/SGD 14,000
Material: Black microblasted ceramic
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 40mm
Dial: Black with horizontal grooves
Hour markers: Applied arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands : Black & white with SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Black cordura effect rubber strap and a khaki cordura effect strap. Steel with black PVD coating triple folding clasp. 

PILOT BIG DATE FLYBACK

Reference: 49.4000.3652/21.I001

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. Patented Big Date at 6 o’clock. Instanteanous Big Date jump in 0.007 sec (0.02 for discs jump & stabilization). Fully Interchangeable strap system
Movement: El Primero 3652, automatic

Frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Functions : Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Instantaneous Big Date at 6 o’clock. Flyback Chronograph. 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight
Price 13400 CHF/SGD 20,000
Material: Black microblasted ceramic
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 42.5mm
Dial: Black with horizontal grooves
Hour markers: Applied arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands : Black & white with SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Black cordura effect rubber strap and a khaki cordura effect strap. Steel with black PVD coating triple folding clasp. 

PILOT AUTOMATIC

Reference: 03.4000.3620/21.I001

Key points: El Primero 3-hands watch. High frequency movement (5Hz). Fully interchangeable strap system.
Movement: El Primero 3620, automatic
Frequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Functions : Hours and minutes in the centre. Central seconds hand. Date indication at 6 o’clock. Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight
Price 7500 CHF/SGD 11,100
Material: Stainless Steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 40mm
Dial: Black with horizontal grooves
Hour markers: Applied arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands : Black & white with SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Black cordura effect rubber strap and a Brown calfskin leather strap. Steel triple folding clasp. 

PILOT BIG DATE FLYBACK

Reference: 03.4000.3652/21.I001

Key points: Tribute to the 1997 first El Primero Flyback movement & Model : the Rainbow Automatic El Primero column- wheel chronograph with flyback function. Patented Big Date at 6 o’clock. Instanteanous Big Date jump in
0.007 sec (0.02 for discs jump & stabilization). Fully Interchangeable strap system.
Movement: El Primero 3652, automaticFrequency 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Functions : Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Instantaneous Big Date at 6 o’clock. Flyback Chronograph. 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight
Price 11400 CHF/SGD 17,000
Material: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 10 ATM
Case: 42.5mm
Dial: Black with horizontal grooves
Hour markers: Applied arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1
Hands : Black & white with SLN C1
Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Black cordura effect rubber strap and a Brown calfskin leather strap. Steel triple folding clasp.

Defy Skyline Skeleton

The new Defy Skyline Skeleton is defined by its angular lines on its case that play with different finishes that accentuate its architecture. The stainless steel case measures 41mm and is delivered on an integrated stainless steel bracelet with a quick strap-change mechanism that enables it to be switched over to a starry-sky patterned rubber strap and deployant clasp for additional comfort. 

The main attraction for this piece is most certainly the dial. Essentially a part of the movement, the dial is openworked into a four-point star, much like the Zenith logo of the mid 20th century. The skeletonised dial reveals a skeletonised colour-matching movement mainplate, where the watch can be seen ticking away with its balance wheel visible at 10 o’clock. Completing the sporty look are the thick hands and markers filled with SuperLuminova for night time legibility.

Housed within the new Defy Skyline Skeleton is the Zenith Calibre 3620 SK. Built upon a similar architecture as the El Primero 3600, it shares a similar 1/10th second display, albeit it is placed at 6 o’clock for a small visual curiosity, as well as making the watch incredibly symmetrical. As an El Primero movement, it naturally beats at 10Hz, and has a power reserve of 60 hours. Like the dial, the bridges and rotor of the movement colour match the dial. 

Available in blue or black dial variations, as well as a movement derived from a legend, the watch comes in two flavours that are certain to delight Zenith fans, and those searching for a great everyday wearer that is versatile and changeable to the wearer’s taste.

Defy Skyline Boutique Edition

Following the release and reception of the Defy Skyline collection of 2022, a boutique-only model has been unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2023 in an interesting colour-way, as well as an updated movement that can trace its roots to the venerable El Primero.

The Defy Skyline Boutique Edition is encased in a 41mm stainless steel case in an angular design harking back to the original Defy models of 1969. The dial draws visual interest through its anthracite and rose gold colouring – with a repeating star motif that is reminiscent of a vintage Zenith logo. Giving the effect of a twinkling night sky, the dial is first engraved, then plated with rose gold. At 9 o’clock is a 10th of a second indicator, and at 3 o’clock is the date window. The sporty elements of the dial are tied together by hour markers and thick hands filled with SuperLuminova for visibility in low-light conditions.

This boutique exclusive model is powered by the Zenith Calibre 3620 that is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback. The movement incorporates a 5Hz running frequency which is seen through the 10th of a second indicator on the dial side – directly run off of the escapement. The movement also features a 60 hour power reserve, a length of time that is fast becoming standard for in-house movements that enables great convenience for the wearer. 

The watch is delivered on an integrated stainless steel that can be quickly swapped out for a black rubber strap with a starry sky pattern. Available only through physical boutiques and Zenith’s online boutique, this is an interesting colour way that is also horologically compelling.

Defy Extreme Glacier

If the Defy Extreme is Zenith’s rugged adventurer’s chronograph, the Defy Extreme Glacier is a tribute to the environment – in 2023, a tribute to icy landscapes is built around this tough but technically excellent chronograph.

The most notable part of this watch are the components that protect the bezel and the pushers of the watch. These components are surrounded by chalcedony – a semi precious gemstone that has been meticulously cut and polished to become components of this rugged chronograph. With a mineral structure of silica, each chalcedony stone features a unique fibrous structure and unique colours, making each one of the 50 pieces unique. 

Housed within the titanium and chalcedony case is the El Primero 9004, that measures 1/100th of a second with its chronograph complication, and is delivered on an integrated titanium bracelet as well as a white rubber strap with folding buckle and an additional velcro strap.

Conclusion
In addition to a number of ladies Defy models in 36mm steel case and a myriad of dial colours and levels of gem setting, Zenith continues to iterate on a storied sports watch collection, one which clearly displays the future of watchmaking. The Defy collection continues to delight watch fans, continuously unveiling pieces that pique the interest of the most hardened watch enthusiasts.

As a physiology major in university, Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy played a large part in our studies. A genetic disorder affecting mainly boys, its effect on growing children is devastating, as muscle membrane proteins are unable to repair effectively. Currently, gene therapy is undergoing trials in patients, and it has shown some promise in increasing muscle strength – however, there is still much work to be done in this field in order to develop new therapies for this affliction. 

Every two years, the watch world together with the Association Monegasque contre les Myopathies, works on an auction where all proceeds go to funding research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy – as of early 2021, over 70 million Euro has been raised to benefit children afflicted by this disease. It is an opportunity for brands and independent watchmakers to put forward their wildest watches, ranging from prototypes, to altered colour schemes for familiar pieces, all the way to new movements and complications.

For someone who studied physiology, and has delved into the mechanisms of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, it is truly enlightening to see the watch world come together for such a noble cause. It is one of the rare times we see the industry so united, and we think there is no better cause than this for them to create these one-offs.

Our founder Adi Soon has written about his picks for Only Watch – here are my fantasy picks if I had the wallet to help raise money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

Akrivia – Chronometre Contemporain II

A darling child of the independent watch scene, Rexhep Rexhepi begins a new chapter in his career with the Chronometre Contemporain II. Retaining the lauded classical aesthetics of the first version of his Chronometre Contemporain, the watch is built from the ground-up as an entirely new timepiece.

A dial with a two-stage production process of grand-feu enamel, followed by a translucent champagne-coloured flinque enamel graces the front of the watch.l  The case, hewn from 950 Platinum respects traditional craftsmanship, and is produced in 14 parts by Jean-Pierre Hagmann – a boitier/casemaker by trade who has been lauded for his minute repeater cases, manufacturing for numerous brands in the past and is now working with Rexhepi. The “JHP” hallmark on the lugs signifies its provenance, and each of these lugs are individually soldered to the case.

Housed within its platinum case is a manually wound movement that is aesthetically similar to what was housed in the previous Chronometre Contemporain, however it now incorporates a dead-beat seconds mechanism, as well as being certified by the Besancon Observatory. This watch also includes an experience of visiting the Besancon Observatory – undoubtedly a package that represents fine watchmaking as a whole, in its craftsmanship and its history.

Blancpain – Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No-Rads

Proving to be incredibly popular amongst watch fans, the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms series of watches looks back into the archives, and revives key models that were instrumental in forming the evolution of the modern dive watch. At Only Watch 2021, the No-Rads has been brought back with orange-coloured accents on the dial and bezel to match with the theme of the auction – this can look like an attractive pumpkin-like patina, which vintage enthusiasts are sure to enjoy.

This version for this edition of Only Watch also removes the date window, cleaning up the dial and making it more symmetrical – this is, however, not how the original was presented, but will be sure to please those that love a cleaner aesthetic. The orange colour scheme extends down to the No-Rads symbol at 6 o’clock – instead of yellow and red, it is now orange and yellow. Powering this version of the watch is the Blancpain Calibre 1154, with a custom-engraved rotor commemorating Only Watch 2021.

Chopard – Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch

For fans of Switzerland, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch is the brand’s familiar sports watch, but with the addition of a natural Swiss granite stone dial from the Graubunden region of the country. Speckled with blue and green inclusions, the dial echoes the view of the Alpine region from the sky.

Naturally, in order to view the beauty of the stone dial, the sapphire crystal has the brand printed onto it. The 44mm case is made from Lucent Steel, the same as in the main line collections where a portion of the steel used is recycled – this steel is also harder than traditional 316L Stainless Steel used in many watches. Housed within the fantastic steel case is the Chopard 03.05-C movement, for which 3 patents are filed for the chronometer certified movement, and the watch is delivered on a calfskin strap with a titanium inlay.

Czapek – Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise”

ISOCHRONO are very much fans of this new release from Czapek, and we wrote about it extensively earlier this year. This version of the Antarctique features an orange colour that is CVD coated, done in partnership with Positive Coating.

The movement itself is also the fruit of a partnership – with Chronode, no less. The SHX6 movement displays the entire split seconds chronograph mechanism on the dial side, to display the beauty of its finishing, and the mechanical interactions each component plays when the chronograph is activated.

Housed in Stainless Steel, and measuring in at 42.5mm, the Antarctique Rattrapante “Sunrise” also features chronograph subdials and a minutes track in fume coated sapphire crystal – the minutes track also features a hidden message from 0-10 seconds – “Courage Every Second” – a message that is fitting for an auction that benefits Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. 

DeBethune/Voutilainen

On the surface the entry from DeBethune and Kari Voutilainen represents a collision of worlds, with a stark juxtaposition of classic and modern watchmaking in one watch. In reality, the duo of Denis Flageollet and Kari Voutilainen is closer than one might think – they both had the same teacher when they attended watchmaking school, and hence, each side represents their vision of watchmaking.

Kari Voutilainen’s side of the watch continues his very classical interpretation of watch dials, with multiple forms of guilloche visible on the dial, and heavily stylised Breguet-esque hands. Denis Flageollet’s side, on the other hand, displays the hyper-modern watchmaking that DeBethune is famous for – Star Trek-like shapes for the movement components, and skeletonised bridges to expose more of the mechanisms lying underneath.

Voutilainen’s side uses the Isogone display, where a minute ring revolves with the minutes hand. This means that hands will always line up at the hour, be at 90 degrees for 15 minutes past the hour, 180 degrees for the half hour, and 270 degrees for 45 minutes past the hour – the idea being that the display of the hands remains consistent throughout the hours. This side also features a large deadbeat seconds hand. DeBethune’s side involves a rotating minute hand at the periphery of the dial, and the hours indicator curiously positioned where the balance wheel is located – an unusual arrangement, but nonetheless an attractive one that leaves the construction of the movement to speak wonders for the watch. The calibre OW21 housed within has a 4 day power reserve, and features a titanium balance wheel as well as a silicon escapement.

FP Journe x Francis Ford Coppola – FFC Blue

Taking an incredible 7 years from conception to development, the FFC Blue was inspired during a dinner between Coppola and Journe, with Coppola asking if there was any possible way for a watch to tell the time with a hand – and not in the sense that we are used to in watchmaking. Journe took the inspiration of this display from a mechanical hand created by Ambroise Pare, the father of modern surgery, and had to devise a way to display all 12 hours with only 5 fingers.

Furthermore, this is powered by a version of the Octa 1300 movement, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. Housed within a weighty tantalum case, the movement is crafted entirely of rose gold, and the rotor is engraved with the names of Ambroise Pare, Francis Ford Coppola, and of course, FP Journe.

The minutes are displayed on a disc on the periphery of the dial with a blued triangular arrow, and of course, the “digital” hours are indicated by the blue hand in the centre of the dial. Whilst we can certainly think of ways that this watch can be even more provocative through the use of its middle digits, this watch is certainly provocative enough with its radical display of time, and incorporation of automata in its construction.

Girard-Perregaux – Casquette, Only Watch Edition

It’s back to the future for Girard-Perregaux at the 2021 edition of Only Watch, as the brand works with Bamford Watch Department to unveil a new version of the famous LED watch from 1976. The watch uses a new movement that utilises an LED display, just like the original Casquette, but protects this in a case of forged carbon and titanium.

Titanium pushers are used to activate the display – just like in the 1970s, LED displays still utilise a lot of power, and the pushers activate the display on demand. Undoubtedly, this is a great way to get vintage vibes from the 70s, whilst retaining an essence of modernity in the form of the case.

Krayon – Anywhere

Featuring a lacquer dial with a mosaic effect, the Krayon Anywhere for Only Watch 2021 features an interpretation of Claude Monet’s “Impression, rising sun” on its Metiers d’Art dial. Distinctive for being the only watch with its Equation of Time and Sunrise/Sunset function capable of being set for any location on Earth, the buyer of this watch will be able to choose the location upon purchase.

The watch also features an incredible amount of fine finishing on the movement – as a prototype, it is finished excellently with manually executed bevels, many of them internal bevels.

MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch

The shape of the “bulldog” lent itself well to an iteration of this watch in Panda form, with its rounded edges and organic forms. To further the Panda aesthetic, titanium ears were added to domed upper sapphire crystal, the upper case was reworked in stainless steel to accept a black and white lacquer finishing, and a silicon nitride ball was used for its tail. As the Panda is always munching on bamboo, the teeth remain underneath the “eyes/hour and minutes indicators” of the panda – this also serves to indicate the power reserve. To top it all off, the Panda motif is further reinforced with a black and white velcro strap.

Patek Philippe – “Complicated Desk Clock”

For those that managed to procure the entire collection of Patek Philippe watches (including the elusive Nautilus 5711/1A), Patek Philippe dug deep into its archives and based their Only Watch 2021 entry on a clock owned by a famous collector. Originally delivered in 1923, the original clock was ordered by James Ward Packard, and now resides in the Patek Philippe Museum.

The modestly named Only Watch 2021 clock is a veritable horological beast, hewn from Sterling Silver, with vermeil decorative elements and American walnut furniture. Driven by the Calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the clock boasts a power reserve of 31 days with power reserve indicator, a perpetual calendar, jumping seconds and a week indicator shown through a red window at the periphery of the dial. Its precision in construction utilising its Gyromax balance wheel and a 28,800 vph oscillation frequency, the clock is adjusted to within +1/-1 seconds per day – an amazing rate of accuracy for a mechanical clock, and we can expect nothing but the best from Patek Philippe.

Speake Marin – Dual Time Openworked Only Watch The Sun

With the world awakening from its pandemic slumber, it could be said that the Speake Marin is a watch for the times. Equipped with an in-house dual-time movement (the SMA02), the watch is ready to accompany its wearer on journeys across the world.

Contrasting with 42mm DLC coated case is an orange dial that is the thematic colour of this year’s edition of Only Watch, not only representing hope and progress in the world of Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research, but also a reminder of the reemerging world.

TAG Heuer – Only Watch Carbon Monaco

A modern reinterpretation of the “Dark Lord” Monaco, the watch takes its inspiration from this vintage model of the 70s, and utilises modern materials to update its look and feel, whilst incorporating thoroughly modern features in its movement construction. The case is made from forged carbon, and the Only Watch 2021 thematic colours of orange stand out against its dark skeletonised dial.

The movement features a ‘gratte’ finish to echo a finishing flag that brings to mind its racing heritage, and the rear of the watch features the largest sapphire crystal case back to ever be featured on a Monaco. Within the forged carbon case is the Heuer 02 in-house movement, that is curiously fitted with a carbon hairspring – continuing the theme of carbon within the movement. It is fantastic to see that the carbon hairspring has made its way back to a production watch, and we can only hope that it is a signal for things to come.

Zenith x Felipe Pantone – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone

All of your chromatic dreams come true – Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone brings the artist’s chromatic artistic inspiration to the wrist in an amazing 46mm sapphire case. A rainbow for the wrist, the multi-coloured finishings are applied to an El Primero 9020 movement that features one tourbillon for timekeeping and one for the chronograph itself, beating at 5Hz and 50Hz respectively. Accompanying the watch will be an artwork made by the artist himself. Two whirlwinds are better than one, and with this watch and the accompanying artwork, it will undoubtedly be a colourful one at that.

The A386 forms the basis of the new Chronomaster Original, reviving the original proportions and dial design of this foundational model. During the 50th anniversary celebrations of the El Primero, we saw many limited edition collaborations on this model, including models done with Phillips Watches, as well as the Revival series that saw a trilogy of precious models with ultra-extended (50 year) warranties. The new Chronomaster Original however,  will form a permanent part of the Zenith line-up – one that has been much awaited since the discontinuation of the last 38mm Chronomaster.

This new model comprises 3 models, two in stainless steel, that would not look out of place in the original 1969 release, as well as a precious metal version that brings a warm and stylish edge. 

These stainless steel models are either available with a reverse-panda-style dial, with black as its base and silver subdials, or a dial that is almost a spitting image of the original A386 – tricoloured subdials in light grey at 9 o’clock, dark grey at 6 o’clock and blue at 3 o’clock (the rose gold model also has this dial configuration).

Curiously, the reverse-panda dial (that has no historical precedence in the A386 line) has beige SuperLuminova, whilst the tri-colour dial features white “C1” SuperLuminova – regardless, both are very attractive options, giving those interested in stainless steel chronographs more options to choose from in this competitive environment. On the periphery of the dial on a black track we see a time division of 1/100th of an hour, once used to calculate 1/100th of an hour for time spent working – this is a holdover from the original A386 models.

The 38mm case features a domed box sapphire crystal, as well as radial brushing on the lugs that furthers the retro effect of this watch. However, it is only upon further inspection of the dial that we see a curious modern touch that was not possible back in 1969.

On the outer chapter ring on the periphery of the dial, we see a 1/10th of a second time indication, and indeed, the chronograph central hand makes one rotation around the dial once every 10 seconds. (see video below)

Like the Chronomaster Sport released earlier in the year, this movement is the El Primero 3600, providing a visual animation of the chronograph that gives great visual impact, and was something that is only achievable with the accumulation of watchmaking and manufacturing knowledge by Zenith over the decades. The 5Hz beat rate is truly quite stunning compared to other chronographs in this category – a display of its accuracy with its resolution of 1/10th of a second. 

The steel variants are available on a calf leather strap with triple folding deployant clasp, or on a stainless steel bracelet with double locking clasp – one that features polished centre links, as well as a more modern design in comparison to the more recent “ladder/Gay Freres” style bracelets we have seen on the Revival models of late. The rose gold model is only available on a calf leather strap with a deployant clasp.

The Zenith Chronomaster Original, then, serves two roles in Zenith’s line-up. It is a reminder of Zenith’s past – a calibre that was, and still is rather underrated in the sports chronograph category today. It also serves as an everyday reminder of what the company is capable of in terms of watchmaking. Whilst vintage aesthetics are still hot in the watch world, it is great to see that Zenith has paid tribute to the past with key design elements of the A386, but also set a precedent for the future with this watch – we at ISOCHRONO have no doubt that the incorporation of the El Primero 3600 displays techniques that will push the brand to greater heights.

Movement

El Primero 3600

Functions

Hours, Minutes, Running Seconds, 1/10th of a Second Chronograph, Date

Case

Stainless Steel, Rose Gold 38mm

Strap

Calf Skin Leather Strap on Double Folding Deployant Buckle, or Stainless Steel Bracelet with Double Folding Clasp

Power Reserve

Approximately 60 Hours

The A3817 model was originally released in 1971, 2 years after the first release of watches containing the El Primero movement. Amongst aficionados of vintage watches, only 1000 pieces of this particular reference were produced, making it a rare bird indeed for those seeking an original. 

The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817 is, as the name suggests, a revival of this model, with a lot of effort paid to making this as close to the original as possible. Zenith’s product development team utilised blueprints from the era as well as reverse engineering to replicate aspects of the watch such as finishes and dimensions. 

Like the original, the watch features a stainless steel case and a white lacquered dial with the signature coloured subdials in tones of grey and blue, as well as the radial brushing on top of the 37mm tonneau shaped case that appears to emanate from the centre of the watch. A peculiarity of this watch is the coloured markers of the 9 o’clock subdial for the running seconds counter – this is further accentuated by a blue hand in contrast to the chronograph hands that are white.

On the periphery of the dial is the tachymeter scale that also incorporates a pulsometer – adding further functionality to this watch. The vintage vibes continue with the “shark tooth” pattern for the seconds markers of the chronograph – this was originally done to aid legibility back in the day.

Visible through the display back of the watch is the El Primero 400 Automatic movement, one that has virtually remained unchanged since 1969 – fitting for a watch meant to pay tribute to legendary models of the past.

The watch is available on the revival model’s signature “Ladder” bracelets that are a recreation of the Gay Freres bracelets of yore, or on a light brown leather strap that develops a patina as the watch is worn.

Available only at boutiques and Zenith’s eCommerce platform, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817 retains the rarity of the originals, given the presence of boutiques in exclusive locations.

Zenith should be rightfully proud to display its heritage as one of the first makers of the Automatic Chronograph – to do it in a way that they have, as well as it lasting over 60 years is a testament to the foresight of the company’s movement designers and engineers. With the Chronomaster Revival A1817, the watch not only retains its exclusivity like models of the past, but it also rounds out a collection paying tribute to models that formed one of the pillars of modern watchmaking in the 20th Century. For a brand that was quietly responsible for the popularisation of the luxury sports chronograph, it is only fitting that the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817 be as true to its roots as humanly possible, to exhibit a company in a golden age of watchmaking.

Zenith has been firing on all cylinders ever since the launch of the Chronomaster Sport at the beginning of 2021, and it has begun to build a cohesive personality quite apart from the already legendary El Primero movement that everyone knows them for.

In the new Defy Extreme, the moves have been straightforward and welcome – grow out the case from a regular Defy 21 at 43mm to a larger 45mm in the Defy Extreme, add new guards for the chronograph pushers, and then use the bigger case and a new screw-down crown to increase water resistance to 200m.

It’s an Zenith El Primero that is built tougher, which should allay the concerns of owners of the watch who want to bring their watch into environments that are harsher than normal. It’s not to say that the older Defy 21 was a slouch in the toughness department though, being 100m water resistant and in titanium. This new Extreme version though, with its overbuilt exterior and special features, should give owners less pause when out and about.

Each watch will come with three straps included – rubber, velcro and titanium bracelet, that can be interchanged easily with the new Easy strap change system. It works via a push button on the underside of the case that releases the strap. I tried it myself, and although it was a little difficult to push on account of the watch being new, I was able to release the strap within 10 seconds.

There are three variations of the Defy Extreme at launch. A version in titanium with blue sub-dials, another in micro-blasted black titanium with black sub-dials, and the most luxurious one, a version in micro-blasted black titanium with a rose gold bezel and matching rose gold accents, including the hands, indices and Zenith star.

This version is easily the most aesthetically striking one, and would be my pick of the bunch especially when worn on the wondrously light matching titanium bracelet.

It’s nice to talk about Zenith without mentioning too much about the El Primero 9004 Automatic movement that it carries, because we know it’s there, and we know it’s amazing. But every once in a while, when you engage the pusher, you realize that, for all the aesthetic features you enjoy on the exterior of the watch, it’s a shock when you see the one rotation per second of the chrono hand, to be reminded of the formidable chronograph legacy of the El Primero.

That’s a good thing.

It just always seemed to be out of reach as I started getting more interested in watches. By the time I was (barely) able to afford one, the black-dialled iteration of the 116520, my choice of poison, had become rather popular and could only be found at a 20% premium through resellers. The premium escalated rapidly, and availability started becoming scarce. In 2016, I marvelled at the beauty of the newly launched 116500LN. This time, the white dial called to me like a siren beckoning sailors to their doom. I’m sure I don’t need to go into detail about how it was impossible to buy it at list price.

I briefly considered snapping it up with a 50% mark up when I saw it at a reseller, but very quickly dismissed that momentary lapse of judgment, chiding myself for being insane to even contemplate what was obviously irrational and impulsive behaviour. To my dismay, I watched the price balloon even further within months, and I beat myself up for hesitating and being rational. At that point, I had pretty much given up all hope of ever laying my hands on one. And then something happened that was nothing short of a miracle.

No, I was not contacted by the dealer to inform me that it was finally my turn to receive one. I am rather far down the food chain. A dear friend of mine, however, was not. He received a message to inform him that a new, very limited, shipment had arrived and he was allocated a piece. He had, for reasons unknown, expressed interest in the watch to the dealer despite not actually wanting it. He recalled, bless his soul, that less than a week before I had mentioned to him that the Daytona was the one watch that I wanted but could never get. And he decided to make it happen for me.

And so, after years of yearning, I finally obtained that one elusive timepiece thanks to that saint of a man. It has been almost a year since, and I have enjoyed wearing it as much as I possibly could despite the lockdowns and madness characterised most of 2020. In that short span of time, there have been several new additions to my collection. At the time of writing this, I have even placed a deposit for the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down, a true masterpiece of a chronograph movement that has been blessed by the great Phillipe Dufour. Surely some of that love for the 116500LN would have waned by now.

Not in the slightest.

There are many things to love about what is quite possibly the most desirable watch in the world. It maintains the svelte case that has long been discontinued in all other popular Rolex professional series watches in favour of a more chiselled and heftier chassis. While the super case added a greater degree of masculinity, it robbed the brand of the elegance found in earlier models. Even though the case size is the same at 40mm (pre-2020 Submariner), the Daytona wears smaller which makes it an easy fit for all wrist sizes.

The introduction of the ceramic, or in Rolex speak – Cerachrom, bezel did not alter the wearability of the Daytona but delivered the promise of a watch that will continue to look its very best in decades to come due to the scratch-resistant properties of the new material. While tastes are highly subjective, I personally feel that the polished black bezel contrasts beautifully with the steel and the white dial.

This is not a subtle watch by design. The oyster bracelet features polished centre links to match the case. In the light, practically every aspect of the watch glitters and demands your attention. This “bling” factor makes the Daytona much dressier than your typical tool watch, which at this point begs most to reconsider even calling it one anymore. As resistant to scratches as the bezel is, the same cannot be said of the case and bracelet, both of which are prone to the rigours of daily wear. Fortunately, there exists now protective healing shields that you can have applied to various parts of the watch to prevent scuff marks. I have had them on since getting the watch, and I can confidently say that they work brilliantly. And they are barely visible too. But enough about my obsession for pristine watches.

The busyness of the dial has been a subject of many discussions, but I personally have no issues with it. Five lines of copy is hardly unusual for a Rolex dial, and despite them coexisting with the sub-dials, nothing seems out of place. I even like the red Daytona label above the seconds sub-dial, which adds a spot of colour on an otherwise monochromatic palette. This is all very familiar as the layout has been in existence since the release of the reference 16520 in 1988. Legibility remains high despite the sum of all its parts.

As a timekeeper, the calibre 4130 is no slouch, as hinted by the “Superlative Chronometer” printed on the dial. Official technical specifications indicate a variation of ±2 seconds per day and real-world usage confirms it. Activating the chronograph feels smooth and precise, with a satisfying click to indicate actuation. So you can expect precision, whether you are timing a lap around the track or ensuring that your soft-boiled egg has the preferred consistency. I mostly use the chronograph for the latter, if ever, and I always buffer sufficient time to unscrew the pushers to prepare them for use. A small price to pay for the 100 metres of water resistance they accord.

So it wears well, looks good, and tells precise time, but the same can be said of many other timepieces. The real question is whether true love exists, and if it can be had or parted with for the right sum of money. Well, that depends entirely on which side you are on. I was not prepared to pay incredibly inflated prices to obtain it. For that amount of money I could buy the Zenith El Primero and the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, both of which have greater historical significance, and still have change to spare. Just because Paul Newman wore a Daytona doesn’t mean I have to pay top dollar for it. And it’s not even the same watch!

2021 has had an exciting start so far with the new releases from the aforementioned brands. The Moonwatch has been updated with the new co-axial calibre 3861, and Zenith has just released the Chronomaster Sport equipped with the new El Primero calibre 3600 that operates at 5hz, measures up to 1/10^th of a second and even sports a ceramic bezel. Up against such competition, the Daytona’s lead seems to fade a little from a technical standpoint and its comparatively lacklustre backstory also has less gravitas than its peers.

But if, like me, you have the opportunity to buy one at list price, the Daytona still presents a strong case. Its current cultural status and the strength of the Rolex brand is hard to deny. The availability of the watch, or lack thereof, has a dizzying effect on collector sentiment and to own one puts you squarely in the sights of envious onlookers. Whether I care to admit it or not, the Daytona does imbue me with a certain sense of gleeful pride. I know all of this represents nothing more than bragging rights, but surely that is the primary reason for the existence of luxury watches in the first place.

For more tangible arguments in its favour, the Daytona’s value retention is second to none in this segment. Even if you never plan on selling it, it always feels good knowing that the watch sitting on your wrist is worth far more than what you paid for, meaning that if I have to sell it, I would be paid extra for wearing it. 

I was asked on numerous occasions if I would sell my Daytona for a huge profit to fund my next purchase, and I have dismissed the very notion of it with swiftness and great certainty. I enjoy wearing it far too much and have waited far too long to obtain it. Rolex just knows how to make a great watch and this Daytona, nay, MY Daytona sits comfortably and firmly in my collection. It’s mine and I’m keeping it.

True love does, indeed, exist.

Since 1969, the El Primero has been well ahead of its time, with its integrated construction and high beat rate for chronometric performance, but has largely remained unchanged since then. For an industry that is steeped in tradition, Zenith found its niche by producing a legendary movement – one that helped revive the Swiss Watchmaking industry. However, like all great manufactures, the brand strives for continuous improvement, and in 2021, Zenith unveils the Chronomaster Sport – a nod to its 1969 roots, whilst housing a movement that brings the El Primero into the modern age.

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport pays tribute to 1969, the 90s and positions it squarely for the future. Its design details on the dial, as well as its pump pushers are taken from the original A386 model released in 1969 that housed the first El Primero movements to be produced. The inspiration for the dial is seen in the multi-coloured subdials in silver, anthracite and petrol blue. Another similarity can be seen in the placement of the date window at 4:30, echoing the A386 and it’s date window placement. This is arguably less intrusive than placing the date at 6 o’clock like most chronographs, and keeps all the subdials uncluttered for accurate reading of the time. Where the 90s come into the design equation is the case form – this is taken from the De Luca model released in this era, with its wide bevels on the lugs. The 90s inspiration is topped off by a solid stainless bracelet fastened by a folding clasp with an extra lock, or for a more pragmatic look, a rubber strap with a deployant clasp. The bezel is a glossy ceramic, and marks the first time that 1/10th of a second markings are engraved into a bezel – and herein lies the party trick of the Chronomaster Sport – its new El Primero Calibre 3600.

The new calibre of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport makes improvements on the original El Primero – most notably its capability of measuring 1/10th of a second. The chronograph seconds hand on the new Calibre 3600 makes one revolution every 10 seconds, instead of once every 60 seconds, and is able to display this through the use of the ceramic bezel that is graduated for 1/10th of a second. When the chronograph is activated, this gives the watch a lot of visual impact, where the chronograph seconds hand is speeding around the dial. Through this mechanism, it is clear that Zenith has optimised this mechanism for production in a watch at its price-point – the brand should be applauded for its dedication to measuring ever smaller increments of time in its chronographs movements. Visible through the sapphire crystal caseback of the watch, the movement features an engraved rotor with elements in relief, and featuring the Zenith star.

The Chronomaster Sport undoubtedly has a look that is desirable in today’s watch market, as evidenced by the sell-out figures. It has been reported that initial batches into retailers have already sold out, and received much praise by enthusiasts and the press alike. This brings us to the elephant in the room, and that is that it’s appearance resembles that of the Rolex Daytona.

The material options of the Chronomaster Sport – a stainless steel case with ceramic bezel as well as the dial options of black and white mirror that of the Daytona. Its sizing at 41mm is very close to the Daytona with the main difference being the lack of crown guards, and even down to the bracelet clasp, it has the feeling of a Fliplock clasp from the Crown – the Easylink extension is missing, but the feeling is close enough.

Yes there is a feeling of familiarity with the Chronomaster Sport, but there are many details that separate these watches from their outward appearance. The vintage details taken from the A386 dial amongst others, as well as the addition of the date window (which the Daytona does not have) and the 1/10th of a second chronograph from the 5Hz beat rate of the El Primero separate the Chronomaster Sport from the Daytona far enough that they have their own distinct identities. It will most likely be easier to get too. It is easy to say that Zenith has just taken a leaf out of Rolex’s playbook, however, we have to remember that it was a modified El Primero that relaunched the Daytona in the 1990s, forming their Calibre 4030 movement – and if Rolex utilises anything in the watchmaking world, then by extension, it must be good. 

This is thanks to the dynamic leadership of Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith, who has, since taking on the role, begun a journey to realise the full potential of the well-respected maker of the iconic El Primero. He has made clear distinctions for the brand, and given it a fresh identity. It is now able to recreate vintage pieces like the Chronomaster Revival A385, and create new watches like the Defy El Primero 21 – making it a brand that is able to draw on its past, but also make thoroughly modern pieces at the same time.

Zenith has been instrumental in supporting the renaissance of the watch industry through its luxury revival in the 90s, being housed in some of the decade’s most important watches that brought fresh interest into mechanical watches. It is only fitting then, that Zenith pays tribute to three eras with the release of the Chronomaster Sport – the past – where it was the first high-frequency automatic chronograph, the 90s – where the El Primero single-handedly brought back the prominence of the sport chronograph, and the future – where the roadmap of Zenith’s watchmaking philosophy can be seen through its incorporation of the 1/10th of a second chronograph mechanism. Through this watch, we can clearly see that Zenith is now displaying its prowess in chronographs, honouring its history, whilst striving to push mechanical watchmaking to greater heights.

The inner view of the stainless steel case-back with the reference number “6694” visible.

For brands with a long-spanning heritage, this can prove to be fruitful for many reasons, and for Zenith, there is an extensive back-catalogue of models from which inspiration can be drawn. For 2021, the brand synonymous with the words “Automatic Chronograph” brings back the year 1969 with the Chronomaster Revival A385.

The A385 was the reference that helped reinforce the superiority of mechanical watches in an era where quartz watches were beginning to gain traction for their accuracy. In 1970, the reference A385 was chosen for Zenith’s “Operation Sky”, where the watch would be strapped to the landing gear of an Air France Boeing 707 in order to test the rigors of flight, including wind force, fluctuating air temperatures and pressures, and no doubt, extreme vibrations. Having only been commercially released a year prior in 1969, the El Primero movement housed within the A385, as well as the watch itself survived the extreme conditions of the flight. Without a shadow of a doubt, this reassured the team behind the El Primero that their movement was viable, and that they also stood a chance against the oncoming tide of quartz watches that were unable to withstand the punishing environments.

Using original blueprints and production plans of the original model, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 was a product of a “reverse engineering” process at the manufacture to recreate the reference A385 in the modern era. Externally, the A385’s distinctive tonneau case, and pump pushers are identical to the original. Even the sunburst brushing that radiates outward on the top surface of the case, as well as its sharp defined edges and chamfers are period accurate.  The only major differences lie in the more modern domed sapphire crystal front and sapphire crystal caseback to exhibit the El Primero movement within (the original had a solid caseback). 

As befitting a watch at the birth of the Disco Era, the dial features a “vignette” or “fume” style dial – lighter in the centre and getting darker towards the edges in warm brown tones, reminiscent of the colour of a caffe latte made by a Melbournian barista. This vintage vibe is further reinforced by the beige SuperLuminova on the hands and markers, the silvered chronograph subdials and the red chronograph hand. The dial also houses a date at 4:30, with a continuation of the chronograph scale on the periphery of the date, just like the original. In keeping with the retro aesthetic, its bracelet is a recreation of the Gay Freres “ladder” bracelet, so called because of the large spaces in between the bracelet. Also available is a light brown calf leather strap that complements the colour of the dial, featuring a rubber lining to protect the leather from moisture.

Housed within the Chronomaster Revival A385, and visible through its sapphire crystal caseback is the venerable El Primero – a chronograph movement that possesses a reputation that proceeds itself. Being the first integrated automatic chronograph movement created, it was ahead of its time, beating at the high beat rate of 36,000 vph, as well as being column wheel controlled. Small improvements have been made over the years to increase its service life, however, on the whole, it has remained virtually unchanged as a testament to the ingenuity of the engineers in the middle of the 20th Century. 

Zenith have recently been on a roll, recreating pieces from their archives, and this is no exception. While to some, this may seem counterintuitive to creativity, to others, this is a perfect way to indulge in the retro vibe, without the risk of having an incorrect component, or failing water resistance gaskets. For those enamoured with the 60s and 70s, this watch will fit perfectly with that aesthetic. The unusual brown dial with the El Primero movement indubitably cements its place in this era, and there is no denying its old-world charm. The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is most certainly a product of its era, but it has been re-released at a time when the desire for vintage is at an all-time high, and will be appreciated by enthusiasts who crave a touch of the past in their collections. While it may seem that newer is better, the Chronomaster Revival A385 not only proves that its 70s charm is timeless, but also that Old is most certainly Gold.

The Golden Goose (Baselworld) is finally dead

In a press release sent out by the LVMH group, they, the only significant group of brands that includes Hublot, Zenith, TAG Heuer and Bvlgari, have confirmed their departure as well.

The most telling part of the press release states: 

“Within the context of clearly weakened representation of the Swiss watch industry and hence inevitably lower participation, it appears clear to the brands composing the Division and the House of Bvlgari that they must also withdraw to preserve their image and their relations with their clients as well as the media.” 

Jean Claude Biver, who famously declared that the brands under his charge would never leave Baselworld, said: “Grouping the entire Swiss watch industry in a single location, Geneva – the historical capital of watchmaking – and around a single date, is a major opportunity to ast last revive a sector that all too many divisions and divergent interests have weakened compared to the rest of the luxury sector in which Bvlgari is active and that is making much faster progress. We are looking forward to Geneva in April 2021, even though we still need to define the terms of our participation, which we will specify in the coming weeks.”

It’s a sad day, and the final nail in the coffin of the venerable fair that has been a mainstay in the world of Swiss watchmaking for over one hundred years. Great empires crumble all the time throughout history, and one of the main reasons is corrupt, weak and ineffective leadership. 

MCH Group (owner of the Baselworld fair) publishes the worst press release ever

How will Baselworld ever recover from this?