Today is the first day of the second edition of “Spring Sprang Sprung”, a watch fair for independent micro brands. Obviously the first one you had last year was successful enough that you considered doing it again. Tell me about what happened between the end of the last fair and now.

Basically the decision to do the second one was easy based on the results of the first one. For the first edition, a lot of brands were happy in terms of the crowd turnout and of course the number of sales that they did as well. They also like the fact that it has a casual feel, unlike most watch fairs that have a more formal setup.

We made that decision within a month of the last fair to do the second one. But of course, in terms of the venue, structure and format, it’s something that took us a while as well to decide what to do.

This May and June, we started to become active in recruiting brands, reaching out to the previous exhibitors and asking them whether they were interested to come back, and of course approaching new brands as well.

I noticed that you have a mainsteam Swiss brand like Oris participating, which is a big difference. What else have you improved? 

So we learned from the Wind Up watch fair in New York and San Francisco that there were a number of bigger brands like Oris who would be interested to participate, and so we reached out to them to ask if they are keen to be part of it.

I happen to be one of their retailers in Singapore so we already have a good relationship. Within a few days we received positive confirmation, which is understandable because the nature of the fair is aligned with their brand approach. They want to engage the local watch community,  and so we are happy to have them here. 

In terms of format, this year we have additional panel discussions. Last year we had two, and this year we will have three. We have incorporated workshops as well which we did not have last year.  

What kind of workshops? 

We have enamelling, basic watchmaking as well as leather crafting workshops, and they are all done on site over the course of the fair.  

So give me some numbers. Last year how many brands did you have and this year how many? 

Last year we had 24 exhibiting brands who have all returned except one, and some new ones as well, making a total of 32 watch brands. We also have three leather straps brands, and one safe storage provider. So in total we have 36 exhibitors this year. 

How was the attendance last year?

Last year we had 700 registrations before the show. So we’re talking about the early birds. And then over the three days of the fair, we counted about 1,002 attendees in total. This year, the number of early bird registrations was almost 800, and we are expecting more. to attend.  

One of the interesting things about this week is that there’s also another fair happening at the same time, which is the Singapore Watch Fair at Sentosa, which caters to a different kind of buying demographic. So how do you see Spring Sprang Sprung in terms of a greater ecosystem of watch fairs in Singapore?

I envision that multiple fairs happening in a week is a great example of how the entire ecosystem of activities can come together and be branded as a new kind of Singapore Watch Week.

I don’t know whether it’s a coincidence that there are so many watch related activities happening this week but if a more concerted effort by all the parties involved can come together, that would be great. We could have activities that would cater to all types of watch enthusiasts, from the high end, to the affordable and everything else in between. 

Perhaps it might be good to have the Singapore Tourism Board involved in something like this. They do support initiatives such as this, right?

Yes, they do. And they have actually encouraged us to apply for a grant for future editions. Of course, there are quite a list of requirements that would have to be met, and the key one is how the fair or fairs can attract visitors from the region and around the world. 

So far, like today, we’ve been open only two hours, but I have already met quite a few foreign visitors already, from Thailand, Indonesia and China. So that’s a good sign. 

Do you think that Spring Sprang Sprung is something that you can do long term? Is it a viable concept? 

Yes, I do believe that as long as the community is interested. We are definitely looking forward to the future, pushing what we do to a bigger scale, with more brands participating, more visitors and also more activities.

Let’s look into the future then.  What’s your vision for Spring Sprang Sprung? 

As I said before, I would like to have Spring Sprang Sprung be part of a bigger ecosystem of watch fairs in Singapore. It would be nice if everyone exhibits in one big venue with multiple halls, where everything is centrally located. It would be good to have individual halls segmented by their genre. Perhaps we can be in one hall, then maybe the higher end independent labels in other, another hall for talks and workshops, and maybe a space for vintage watches and vintage watch dealers.

So something like a Baselworld for Singapore? 

Yes, something like that, but a little bit more. Baselworld was a fair that was more dedicated to the watch trade than for the final consumer. I think what a Singapore version should aim to be is more consumer centric. 

I think it’s important as well to have a regional focus as well, with the fair acting as a hub for watch retailers, media and consumers from around Asia.

Thank you Sugiharto. 

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Visit Spring Sprang Sprung at:

XM Studios – 809 French Road, Kitchener Complex, Level 3 XM Store,  Singapore 200809

On from the 20th to the 22nd of October, 11am to 6pm

Isochrono: With regards to Maurice Lacroix, I (Adi Soon; AS) personally prefer the watches from the Masterpiece collection –  I own four afterall. So tell me, with all the emphasis these past few years on the Aikon collection, has Maurice Lacroix forgotten the fans of the Masterpiece watches?

SW: I don’t know if you are aware of this, but for Only Watch this year,  we have a very nice sapphire cased Masterpiece watch based on the Gravity, which you like, but this time with a skeletonised movement. Obviously when brands do something special for Only Watch, some version of what is shown, in some form, will become available in the future, especially if the concept is accepted by watch enthusiasts. For this year, other than that, we will have a Masterpiece that is part of a very nice collaboration towards the end of the year. 

Also something else to take note of, the 50th anniversary of Maurice Lacroix is coming up in 2025, so we will be planning to showcase some fresh new movement developments which we have already been working on. As you know, movements take a minimum of three to five years to develop.

AS: Are there any general directions you will be taking with these new Masterpiece watches that you can share?

SW: Well, one feedback that has come up quite a few times is that the base movement on the Masterpiece watches is quite big, especially for our friends from Asia, resulting in watches that range from 43 to 45mm in width. This limits the number of people who can wear these watches. For the next generation of movement development, we’ve been working on sizing things down, bringing our Masterpiece line towards smaller case sizes. The sweet spot is probably around 40 to 41mm. 

Other than that, more interesting complications, like we always do with the Masterpiece line.

AS: So you’re not ignoring us then – the Masterpiece lovers? 

SW: Not at all. There are many things we can do, but we continue intelligently, and step by step. The Aikon collection has been very successful for us and we will continue to develop it and make it grow. And of course, recently with the launch of the Pontos S Diver, we kind of rediscovered another icon, with fans of the previous model, loving the improvements in the latest version. All these activities are important since with this stable base, we can invest in our Masterpiece developments. 

AS: As you know, Baselworld doesn’t exist anymore, and the two main watch shows that exist, Watches and Wonders, and Geneva Watch Days, are both in Geneva. Maurice Lacroix has been doing something very interesting in recent years that is different from everyone else – which is to take over the entire East West Hotel in Geneva.

It’s an utterly unique concept since you have everything you need in one place – meeting rooms, product showcase rooms, a restaurant and cafe, and even accommodation for yourself, your staff and your retailers. 

SW: In the beginning, we were not sure if this would work. But I have to say that, after the past few years here, we have definitely found something unique.

We call it the “House of Maurice Lacroix”, and the ambience of this particular hotel absolutely represents how our brand behaves and what we want to be. There’a a kind of casual, relaxed vibe, coupled with top notch service, and this is the kind of hospitality that we want to offer to the press and retailers who come to see us. If you’ve seen our boutique in Bangkok, you’ll understand the kind of environment that we’re going for. 

With the demographics of our customers, we find this hotel to be the best way to communicate our brand to those that we see. We could have been part of the main fair, in a big hall of very high end luxury brands, or we could have situated ourselves in a very posh and chic five star hotel like the Beau Rivage, but ultimately these options didn’t make sense for who we are, as a brand. 

AS: One of the things I’ve really enjoyed, since staying here thanks to your kind invitation, is the sense of camaraderie between everyone who is here, retailers, your staff, and other press, can have in the evenings, when we can all forget about work for some time, and just socialize as human beings. It’s a very nice concept, so congratulations for that. 

SW: Thank you. So far, it’s worked out well and we can definitely see ourselves continuing this format for the foreseeable future.

AS: The new Aikon Urban Tribe Skeleton is the second edition of the engraved case and bracelet concept that started with the first Aikon Urban Tribe watch. Can you explain to me from your point of view, why the first edition was so well received?

SW: First of all, how we stumbled upon this idea was a complete coincidence. There is a Hungarian artist who is a professional engraver with his own engraving workshop, who decided to engrave his own Aikon watch, and posted a picture of the result on Instagram.

When we saw it, we thought that it was so cool and that we had to bring it to more people. His watch had a more flowery and roundish design, but because Maurice Lacroix is a modern brand, we developed a design that’s a bit more square and symmetrical, and something inspired by architecture. 

With our initial prototype, we liked it, but we were not sure what other people would think. When we started showing it around, the response was overwhelmingly positive, and so we decided initially to do 100 pieces. But surprisingly, as we showed more and more people, the interest just kept on increasing. In the end we decided to make a limited edition run of 500 pieces. 

Given how we started this journey, we were shocked that all the 500 pieces sold out quickly.

Why was it so well received? Well, I think that the design was exceptional, and the idea was cool and different. That’s probably why.

AS: So this new version that you’re showing at Geneva Watch Days is the second edition, what did you decide to do differently with this one? 

SW: Despite the success of the first edition, one of the feedback we received was that it was too big, so now the second edition of the Aikon Urban Tribe comes in a smaller 39mm case, which I think will be comfortable for more people. 

The second most obvious difference is that the dial in the new version is skeletonized, as opposed to the Clou de Paris pattern on the dial of the first one. I think the skeletonized dial fits better with the whole concept of the watch, because the bridges are also skeletonized, with the lines that you can see reminding you of the design on the case.

We’ll of course bring something new in the future along these lines, and it will be even more exciting. I’m really curious to see how the response will be on the next one since I already know what it looks like, and I think it’s going to be fantastic.

AS: So how do you produce the engraving?

SW: Of course the original piece was hand-engraved, and we asked the artist if he could produce 500 watches for us. That was a bit of an issue it turns out as it takes two weeks to engrave each watch. 

So we had to find an alternative solution with our suppliers, and settled on a chemical engraving process that we used for the final product. The interesting thing about chemical engraving compared to laser engraving is that the quality is much better. The designs have more definition. If you compare the results from both side by side, you’ll see the obvious difference in quality.

AS: Finally, regarding sustainability, you’ve introduced a new camouflage pattern to a series of four new Tide watches. So, camouflage plus sustainability – explain.

SW: When we launched the Tide collection, we did 10 color variants that we thought would largely remain in the collection, and that we could upgrade slowly over time. What we realized though, was that, with Tide being a much younger product, and with lower pricing compared to the classical mechanical steel watches, we had to be a bit more dynamic in our approach. 

Why camouflage then? Well, it’s trendy now, and something that the audience of the Tide collection would resonate with. In terms of the colors we chose, we decided to take a “fashion” approach. If you look at the first Tide collection, you’ll realize that the bright colors tend to have a more spring/summer kind of vibe.

The new camouflage watches however have a more fall/winter kind of vibe.

Of course, we’re not gonna be as strict or as productive as the fashion industry, bringing new colors every quarter, but we will certainly bring new and surprising models two, three times a year, including new collaborations, which work great with the Tide watches.

It was a big surprise when I found out that you had acquired a majority stake in the Dutch astronomical complications watch specialist Christiaan Van Der Klaauw. Tell me how it came about.

I have known about the brand for a long time, and of course, being Dutch myself, I kept my eye on it. When I returned to Holland after twenty years in the Frederique Constant Group following its sale to the Citizen group, I went back to Holland with my family, and was looking for the next challenge in my life 

I was having a beer with the Grönefeld brothers and they told me that Daniël and Maria Reintjes of Christiaan van der Klaauw were looking for somebody to take over the company, or to help them out. They of course are the husband and wife team who took over the company when the namesake founder Christiaan Van Der Klaauw retired in 2009.

And so I called them, and we got talking, and finally I acquired a 75% stake in the company with Daniël and Maria Reintjes continuing as co-owners with me.

Was the process quick and easy, or long and difficult? 

I have to say, quick and easy. 

The exciting thing about your participation in this brand is the fact that you are a real “watchmaker”, and by that I mean that you have actually developed manufacture movements in your time at Frederique Constant. So tell me what you intend to do with the brand from a technical point of view.

First of all, it’s good for everyone to know that we make astronomical complications such as the Planetarium, Real Moon, etc. That is the perfect base to build on for the future. And so before I say what I will do, I also have to remind everyone that the company has been around for close to 50 years. 49 actually this year. In all those years, astronomical complications have always been the basis for our brand and will continue to do so for the future. 

But we can build it further. For example, I am working on a new manufacture movement to replace the Swiss base movement that we use now. This was something that we started right away when I joined the company, and it will be coming in the next few years. 

And of course, given that astronomy is the basis of how the human race started to quantify time, we can imagine a thousand ideas that can form the basis of beautiful complications that we can create. The problem is not with the quantity of ideas, it’s more about how to organize them to find the best ones we can work on. 

So what can you give me as a sneak peek, something that can make me excited? 

Right now, our most iconic piece is the Planetarium, it’s the smallest planetarium in the world, housed in a watch. This is a complication that I have some ideas on to take to the next level. I don’t want to say too much about this, but it will be something spectacular. 

Christiaan Van Der Klaauw as a brand, is more like an insider secret. In fact the most widely known situation when the brand was spoken about in public in recent times was when the movie, “The Martian” came out, and Matt Damon wore the Midnight Planetarium from Van Cleef and Arpels to the Oscars when he was nominated for Best Actor. The main complication of this watch is of course from Christiaan Van Der Klaauw. So from a storytelling and marketing point of view, what are your plans? 

I think we will start with the basics of telling people what we do, as mentioned earlier. A new aspect I would like to add though is to emphasize how many of the parts of our complications are all made in house, using the original machines that Christiaan used when he started. I was actually very surprised when I first came to see the production since everything is done by hand. It’s real craftsmanship, and this is something that is important to communicate to our clients. 

Can you give an example of what you mean? 

Well, in all my time working in the watch industry in Switzerland, I had never seen the level of craftsmanship that I saw for the first time until I sat with the watchmakers of Christiaan Van Der Klaauw, and it’s really exceptional. For example, the Planetarium is a very complex mechanism, but there is one wheel inside that carries the planets of Saturn that is turning once every 29 and a half years, and to achieve this, there are lots of calculations to do, and many gear trains to achieve this. We use over 700 teeth to make this demultiplication work, and each tooth is cut one by one, by hand. I have never seen that done in Switzerland. There it’s all done with CNC. 

So I assume that Christiaan Van Der Klaauw watches are not Swiss made? 

Yes, we make all our watches in Holland. 

Is it written anywhere on your watch that they are made in Holland?

No, we have not made any markings on the watches to this effect.  The closest thing we have to something like that is the marking that is written “JOURE”, (pictured below) which is the birth place of the company in the north of the Netherlands where Christiaan started the company in 1974.

Is that something that you would consider doing? The idea of Swiss made isn’t the same as before, and there are plenty of brands that proudly make their watches in other countries aside from Switzerland, like McGonigle from Ireland, or Roger Smith in the UK, or even your fellow countrymen, Grönefeld who mark their watches with “Made in the Netherlands”

I agree, it’s a good idea, could be a nice addition to make it clear to our customers that our watches are Dutch.

Let’s come to where we are now, in the SHH boutique at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. I understand that they are your first retailer in Asia? 

I started in June 2022, and now we have 14 points of sale in Asia. Being part of the SHH boutique in Singapore was a milestone because it was our first authorized retailer in Asia, and the exclusive retailer in Singapore. It is also definitely the most beautiful and luxurious of all our point of sales locations. 

So did you look for them, or did they look for you?

I think we were looking for each other. I mean it’s true. At the time they were looking for new brands for this new concept boutique that specializes in independent brands. The moment I became majority shareholder in Christiaan Van Der Klaauw, word traveled quickly, and Ong Ban, CEO of Sincere Watch Ltd heard about it. And that’s how we got in touch with each other. We zoomed a couple of times and things clicked. 

What is your price point? 

Our entry level that we introduced recently starts at around 9,000 Euro and it goes up to the Real Moon for example which is around 30,000 Euro, and then to the Planetarium in steel at around 50,000 Euro. And then we offer options for precious metals and diamonds which brings the range at the high end to around 100,000 Euro. 

Are you keeping to this price range? 

We will make more complicated movements, which means more higher priced watches, but that doesn’t mean that we will drastically change the range that we are in now. We started this with our new entry level offerings, as mentioned, starting at around 9,000 Euro, and when we have more complicated offerings, our high end price range will go up to 200,000 Euro. 

Are we showing in Geneva this year?

We are focused on production now, so that our points of sales will have enough inventory to offer to customers. 

You mentioned that you’ve been very busy, and the company has been doing very well from a business perspective. Was this because you joined the company?

Not because of me, primarily due to the expansion of our markets. Previously, most of our sales were from the European market, mainly from Holland specifically. And now, we have gone international, which is why I have been going around opening new markets in Asia. With SHH, we will also be with them in Malaysia and Thailand. Separately, we also have retailers in Tokyo, Japan. 

It’s true, since this happened we have done very well. Right now we have more than doubled the number of pieces sold as well as our turnover, and now, we even have a waiting list.  

So it’s been a good investment then?

For sure. 

I’ve never realized this side of you, as a businessman, I’ve only seen you as a master watchmaker focused on making movements.  

Well, I had the benefit of being mentored by Peter Stas, CEO of Frédérique Constant for twenty years from when the company was new and had only 10 people. I watched him grow the brand to what it is today and so I learned quite a few things from him. Then, when I became CEO of Atelier De Monaco,  I had eight years to make all my rookie mistakes. From all this, I couldn’t have asked for a better business education.

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Check out the astronomical complications from Christiaan Van Der Klaauw at SHH by Sincere Fine Watches at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. 

Find out more at https://www.klaauw.com/

It’s easy to see why. On the surface it’s difficult to reconcile the disparate worlds that these two entities occupy, given how different they both are. Yet the curious thing is that after spending a brief amount of time thinking about it, it somehow seems to make sense. 

Luxury watchmakers have been trying over the past few years to find a way to appeal to the younger generation. With mechanical watches having lost their functional necessity a long time ago, there is no question that they are anachronistic devices that rely on other factors for their appeal. With this in mind, it becomes obvious why this new Panerai makes a whole lot of sense. We’re not using these watches for war anymore, and in this day and age, a luxury timepiece is a marker for an individual’s sense of style and taste. 

It’s an out of left field collaboration for sure, and I would definitely be interested to get some words from Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué on his thought process in the consideration and approval of this collaboration. It definitely would have been cool to sit in on the meeting about this. 

The watch itself is a typical Luminor Panerai, done with a DLC coated black eSteel (recycled steel in Panerai parlance) case at 44 mm in diameter and 100 meters water resistant. To reference Razer, the collaboration partner, there are a few ways that this watch distinguishes itself. The most obvious parts are the electric fluorescent green small seconds hand at 9 o’clock, and the green stitching on the black quick release PET strap. Then there is the Razer logo which is on the closed case back, which means we have to do without a view of the P900 automatic movement that this watch runs. 

Lastly, there is also the Razer logo on the dial above the 6 o’clock position, which is so subtle that it is hardly visible in most lighting conditions. In fact, when photographing it, I had to use a direct and hard flash beam to get it to appear in these photos.  

Now, it is said that this collaboration was created in support of measures to heal the ocean and to preserve the environment. Ok fine. So it might be. 

Although let’s be honest, no one who is buying this watch will do so while thinking of the ocean. Just on how cool the watch will be on the wrist while playing their favourite game. This was what I was thinking of when contemplating how cool it would be to wear this watch in the semi-darkness of a typical gaming environment. Though in order for me to get into the mood of buying this watch, I will probably have to upgrade my Gigabyte Aero 15 gaming laptop to a new Razer one.  

PAM01353

Movement: Automatic mechanical, P.900 calibre, 12 1⁄2 lignes, 4.2 mm thick, 23 jewels, 28,800 alternations/hour. IncablocTM anti-shock device. One barrel. 171 components

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date Power Reserve: Three days

Case: 40mm brushed eSteelTM with DLC coating, brushed eSteelTM bezel with DLC coating, eSteelTM caseback with DLC coating. Safety Lock crown protection device in brushed eSteelTM with DLC coating. Sapphire crystal formed of corondum

Dial: Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock

Strap: Recycled black PET strap, green stitching, 22/20 BA, buckle in Steel DLC with QR system

Water-Resistance: 10 bar (~100 meters) 

Availability: Limited to 500 pieces and available at Panerai boutiques only or online at panerai.com

The new Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin comes in a fetching emerald green dial with a traditional perpetual calendar layout with four different indications at the cardinal points. Starting with the day of the week indicator at 9 o’clock, then to the month and leap year indicator at 12 o’clock, then to the date of the month indicator at 3 o’clock, and finally, a very subtle and discretely done moon-phase at 6 o’clock.

It’s all symmetrical and very nicely done, and the bluish green dial colour is nicely set against the horizontal guilloché pattern on the dial. Despite the many indications taking up the majority of the real estate on the dial, the legibility is good because the hands are relatively thick, and filled with a generous amount of lume, just like the indices. Though I haven’t tested this myself, it would seem that this watch will be excellent as a daily driver, being visible at all hours of the day or night.

The calibre that runs this watch is the new 1255P ultra-thin movement, which is a combination of Piaget’s own pre-existing 2.35mm thick 1200P ultra-thin calibre with micro-rotor and a perpetual calendar module on top. The result is that the new watch comes with a case thickness of 8.65mm which is pretty impressive for a perpetual calendar, although par for the course for a brand like Piaget.

On the wrist, the watch sits well due to its ultra thin profile which is in the goldilocks zone in my opinion, of having enough mass to feel like a proper watch, but not being so thin that it feels strange. The thinness makes the 42mm wide case wear smaller than the specifications suggest, which is nice. Furthermore the watch comes with Piaget’s new one push easy change bracelet, with an additional dial matching green rubber strap with a similar easy change system in the box that you can use when you have more sporty intentions.

At a quoted price at press time of 49,800 Euro, the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin comes in somewhat at the middle of the pack in relation to other high horology brands offering perpetual calendar watches. Given the stature of the brand, and the overall package that the watch is – being an ultra thin perpetual calendar in stainless steel – it does represent good value in this segment. For this reason, this new watch is a good first step in this direction, and accords well with the savoir-faire of the brand in high horology. Hopefully there will be more complicated offerings in this collection coming down the line.

Technical Specifications – Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Reference: GOA48005

Dimensions: 42mm wide x 8 65mm thick

Case and bracelet: Ultra thin stainless Steel case and bracelet with additional green interchangeable rubber strap with folding buckle, sapphire case back

Calibre: Manufacture self-winding mechanical 1255P, 4mm thick

Frequency: 21,600 vph

Functions: Perpetual Calendar, Moonphase, Hours and Minutes

Power Reserve: 42 hours

Water resistance: 30 metres

Price: 49,800 Euro

This nickname though, comes not just from the green dial, but also from the embossed monogram of the “&” symbol, that famous ampersand that everyone readily identifies as a Bell & Ross signature. The embossed ampersands that alternate their orientation every row have been done in a very detailed way, as you can see from the close up picture below.

It’s the first time that a Bell & Ross watch features a dial design like this, and I must say, it is very attractive. Yet in the manner that it was been done, at normal time-reading distances, the design is small enough to get out of the way when needed, making sure that legibility is not sacrificed.

The other interesting detail about this watch revolves around the number of limited edition pieces that will be produced of the watch – 111. It does seem like a random number and the explanation as to why it was chosen is quite simple and rather unique.

The first thing to know is that the watch was created for the partnership between Bell & Ross and Sincere Fine Watches Singapore, in conjunction with the opening of the Bell & Ross mono boutique at Marina Bay Sands. Well then, what number do the towers of Marina Bay Sands look like? See this picture below:

So that’s the reason why. Honestly, I’ve never heard of a limited edition number being decided in this way before, but its quirky and creative and for this reason, kind of cool.

Retailing for SGD$7,900, the the Bell & Ross X Sincere Fine Watches, BR05 SINCERE GREEN STEEL will be available exclusively the Bell & Ross mono brand boutique at Marina Bay Sands.

Technical Specifications

Reference: BR05 Sincere Green Steel

Movement: calibre BR-CAL.321. Automatic mechanical.

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.

Case: 40 mm in diameter. Satin-polished steel. Screw-down crown. Sapphire case back with a 360° oscillating weight.

Dial: green sunray and embossed monogram of “&”. Applique indices coated in beige Super-LumiNova® with light green emission. Skeletonised hour and minute hands lled with Super-LumiNova® light green emission.

Water resistance: 100 metres

Strap: satin-polished steel.

Buckle: folding. Satin-polished steel.

The IWC Mark series saw the quiet release of a new member this year in the form of the Mark XX, but what was curious was how it came into being, since there was none of the pomp and circumstance that such a watch would normally provoke.

In fact the watch suddenly appeared on IWC’s website overnight, leaving those who spotted it wondering whether the whole thing was real or a hoax. Adding to the mystery was the fact that no press releases were sent out announcing its launch, which was extremely uncharacteristic.

Given the iconic status of the Pilot watches in the context of the IWC brand, and easily being the entry point into the most popular collection of the brand for a new collector, it was puzzling and curious at the same time.

And then another strange thing – when I called IWC to inquire about the watch, it was, on that day itself, already available for sale at my local boutique.

Leaving that aside, the new IWC Mark XX does come with a meaningful series of updates that in my book make it the best Mark series watch to buy right now, if you happen to be in the market for one.

The previous model of the series, the Mark XVIII that was launched 6 years ago, was a culmination of many little details that were oftentimes requested by IWC fans, and its appearance to the market was warmly welcomed.

After-all, it had dispensed with the controversial triple date window seen on the Mark 17, while also restoring the Arabic numerals (3,6,9) that went missing on the Mark 16 (and 17) and all while having a modern 40mm size compared to the 38mm of the Mark 15.

These changes made the Mark XVIII a favourite among IWC fans and it was a watch that I saw frequently on the wrists of enthusiasts at watch events.

Yet with all these attributes, the Mark XVIII was by no means perfect. There were still a few things that I thought could have been better, and joyfully, we find that the new Mark XX is IWC’s attempt to address some of the objections of the previous watch, allowing it to inch ever closer towards perfection.

The first thing to note is that IWC skipped having a Mark 19 model, just as they did when they skipped having a Mark 13 or Mark 14. The series of Mark watches therefore goes like this – XI(11), XII(12), XV(15), XVI(16), XVII(17), XVIII(18) and XX(20). Why is it like this? Well, you can blame superstition regarding certain numbers, which is fine by me.

It also comes with a new in-house calibre 32111, which replaces the non in-house Selitta calibre that powered the previous Mark XVIII. While some might argue about the finer details of how in house this movement can be given that the architecture was based on the ETA 2892, I consider the extensive modifications and upgrades by IWC enough of a step to call it one. There really isn’t anything you can object to given that you are getting a silicon hairspring (for better anti-magnetic performance), 120 hours (5 days) of power reserve and all while staying within the expected price range of an entry level watch.

For those who want a truly versatile watch, water resistance has also improved – previously being 60m with the Mark XV to 100m with the Mark XX. This improvement should have been done a long time ago, even as I understand how rigorously IWC tests their watches and how they would likely be able to survive when worn swimming. Still, it does help, with the 100m water resistance of the Mark XX, to allow one, disregarding the leather strap, to be a little more carefree if things are likely to get wet with the watch on the wrist.

Aesthetically in comparison to the Mark XVIII, some elements have been shifted around slightly and overall the dial of the Mark XX is more elegant in my view, with slightly small numerals that allow more negative space, as all as allowing the date window to come in line with the 2 and 4 numerals above and below it. Another nice touch, the date window now comes with a white background, recalling the first two of the Mark series that came with a date complication – the Mark XII and Mark XV.

Finally, the Mark XX solves what I would consider the biggest issue with the Mark XVII, and that is the lug to lug distance. The new Mark XX has a lug to lug distance of 49mm compared to the 51mm of the Mark XVIII. The difference might not seem like much, but this was the main reason that prevented me from buying Mark XVIII for myself. While the longer lugs do proportionally reference the original Mark XI, they did, on the Mark XVIII overhang my wrist when worn. No such issue with the Mark XX, and I would imagine, for plenty of others who I found in various watch forums, who didn’t buy the Mark XVIII when they tried it on.

In fact, it’s worth noting the case diameter and the case thickness of both the Mark XVIII and Mark XX are exactly the same at 40mm and 10.8mm respectively. It is only the lug to lug distance that has changed. That 2mm difference makes all the difference in the world, and I am guessing that IWC listened to the feedback that was out there on the Mark XVIII and acted accordingly.

What can I say to that? Bravo!

My conclusion is that the Mark XX is the Mark series watch to buy if you want to get one from this storied collection. It is simple, legible and iconic, and with the technical upgrades on board, could really be your only watch if you could only have one or it not, the watch you reach for when you want something that just works.

What is one more thing that could be improved? Well, if IWC could bring back the chopped hour hand to the Mark Series, that would be ideal. However as it stands, they are only doing that for the special limited edition watches (like the one shown below) that come out every now and then. So, not really a big deal, but it would be nice.

Two dial variations were available at launch, in either a classic matte black or a more contemporary sunray-brushed blue finish. Black for me please. Singapore price at SGD7900.

Click here to see the product page of the Mark XX at iwc.com

As you know, Horage is one of the very few brands that actually engineers and produces the movements that they make, which is surprising considering that they are a small company that produces only about 1,000 watches a year. Despite this however, they have released two in-house movements, the highly modular K1 calibre, the K-Tou with tourbillon, with one more, the micro-rotor equipped K2 on the way, with the spectacular Supersede. 

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again. Horage is a brand that you should pay attention to right now. Afterall, most watch brands are, to put it bluntly, merely “watch assemblers” instead of “watchmakers”. If everyone were more accurate in the use of the word “watchmaker”, then Horage would stand out as one of the few that actually deserves that label. 

But enough of the fluff, let’s take a look at my photographic tour of Horage, located in Biel/ Bienne in Switzerland, and see through my camera what they do.

After a multi-hour flight and landing in Zurich, I make my way to the train station below the airport, and wait for the train traveling west towards Geneva. Horage is located in the town of Biel/ Bienne which is about halfway between Zurich and Geneva, making it an easy place to visit.

Biel/Bienne lies on the language boundary between the French-speaking and German-speaking parts of Switzerland, and is bilingual throughout. Biel is the German name for the town; Bienne its French counterpart. The town is often referred to in both languages simultaneously. Biel/Bienne is home to some famous watch brands, such as Rolex and Omega. Shown here is the Omega Museum that you can also visit if you happen to be in town picking up your Horage watch .

It is also possible to visit Lake Biel, one of the three large lakes in the Jura region of Switzerland. Shown here with a prototype of the Horage Supersede that I was allowed to test during the duration of my visit – I asked nicely.

The Horage Manufacture is located on one of the floors of this building, located at the entrance to the Taubenloch, a beautiful gorge in Biel/Bienne that we will explore a little together later.

This is the main engineering and production area of Horage, with conference rooms on the side, and storage at the back. Although I am told that the space has been enlarged since my visit, with the company occupying almost the entire floor.

The main competence of Horage is as a movement maker, and the above pictures illustrate this point. All these components are part of the balance wheel made by suppliers, but assembled and engineered by Horage. The ongoing goal of the brand is to have as much of the watch made in-house as possible, while respecting the limits of their abilities in relation to the abilities of outside suppliers who specialise in particular components. This commitment is exemplified by the CNC machines that they own that are used to make gears, movement plates, and movement bridges that while located at a suppliers’ facility, are entirely managed by Horage technicians.

Silvan D, Industrial Engineer, is in charge of movement development and here he is optimising the number of separate parts that go into all Horage movements. In particular, he is looking to see if any of the parts in the existing K1 and K-Tou movements can be shared with the upcoming K2 movement. By increasing the number of shared components between movements, inventory management and the assembly process of the movements is made simpler.

Aside from engineering on the computer, all engineers must get hands on with the movements they develop since it is only through the assembly process that issues or areas of improvement are found. Silvan jumps from the drawing board and final series production on a daily basis, and it is this hands on approach that has enabled Horage to quickly optimise and scale incredibly quickly.

This is the Horage K2 calibre, a brand new movement that will debut in the upcoming Supersede GMT. The most obvious feature of the movement is the micro-rotor, which allows the benefit of automatic winding to the watch, as well as allowing owners a few of the finishing of the movement.

Parts that come from suppliers to Horage have to pass Silvan’s inspection before making their way down the assembly process. Here he is shown, visually inspecting ratchet wheels for quality. Given that he is the one who designs and engineers the components on the computer before they are made, he probably knows what to look for.

This is a part of watchmaking that plenty of other brands without their own in-house movements do not need to do, and that is classifying the balance wheels and balance springs. Lenny, a watchmaker in charge of regulation and building, is shown here classifying the balance wheels springs into different categories, with the purpose of matching each one to an appropriate balance wheel. I tried to get him to explain what he is looking for in each balance spring and how he matches it up to a balance wheel, but it was too complicated for me to understand. Let me know if you want more detail on this for a future article though and I’ll ask further. Long story short though – Horage and a handful of other movement makers do this step. Most watch brands don’t because they get it all done from an outside supplier. That is what makes the difference.

Based on Lenny’s classification, the balance wheels and balance springs are placed in these containers, ready for the next step in the assembly process.

Watchmaker Leon shows us the day to day reality of the watch production process which has multiple complex steps that can be done concurrently. Here he is multitasking, monitoring the regulation process of the assembled tourbillon movements, assembling a batch of tourbillon cages at the same time, while listening to music.

The first Horage Tourbillon 1 came with a COSC option which 50% of customers took up, which explains the regulation process in-house before being sent out to be officially certified.

Not all watch movements can be COSC certified – it depends on the quality of the design and the engineering. The fact that Horage was able to offer a COSC certified Tourbillon does speak to the brand’s engineering chops, which possibly explains why the new K2 equipped Supersede will be COSC certified as standard.

All of the watchmakers at Horage are very experienced, with many having previously worked in some of the bigger brands in the region. Laurent, the watchmaker shown here is one example, and he is the main guy who handles T2 watch assembly, which basically means that he cases up the assembled movement of the watch from a prepared parts kit as shown, adding the dial and hands and placing it in the case. Your Horage watch was most likely put together by him or any number of the engineers or watchmakers as everyone shares in the responsibility of final production.

If you had bought a Tourbillon 1 from Horage, you would have found a small Fuji Instax print of the watchmaker who assembled the watch inside. This step is done immediately with a red Leica Sofort camera after the watch is assembled.

One of the things that is most impressive about Horage is the way that the brand has built up their fan-base through regular communications through their website, social media, as well as live video presentations. I happened to catch one during my time there given by Andi Felsl, Founder of Horage and Landon Sirling, Marketing Director. 

Andi also introduced me to this “Wurst-Kasesalat” or “Sausage cheese salad” bought at Migros, that is made up of cheese, sausage, pickles and a vinegar based dressing. It will be part of my meals to come in Switzerland.

I mentioned the Taubenloch, a beautiful gorge in Biel/ Bienne that you have to visit if you’re there. It’s an easy 45 min hike in and out. Incidentally, this is the place that inspired that dial colours of the Autark T5 shown below.

Here are more pictures of the Taubenloch for you to enjoy.

Hope you’ve enjoyed this little tour to Biel/Bienne and to the Horage manufacture. Let the guys know if you’re in the area and you’ll probably be able to see some of the things I saw myself there.

Heave a look at the links below for other Horage articles that you can enjoy.

This is obvious when one looks at the design details that make up the watches in the BRX5 collection. Whereas the related BR05 collection was an elegant take on the iconic square shape of the brand, the BRX5 uses the same foundation, but leans in further to the sporty side. 

This is especially evident in the multi layer case construction of the watch, with a hollowed out architecture that reminds one of the strong but space saving structures of race cars or bridges. Viewed from the side, one can see the inner steel core part of the case that holds the movement.

This is then sandwiched between the square bezel and the caseback, with a colour-coded gasket (I assume based on dial colour), with everything held in place via four screws that come in through the corners.

At 41mm wide and 12.8mm thick, the watch is well sized for most, having a good presence yet not being burdensome on the wrist. 

One of the most noteworthy changes that this new collection introduces as well is its new manufacture movement made by Kenissi that offers several technical advantages over the ETA/ Sellita based movements of previous collections. 

For those unfamiliar with Kenissi, it is a company founded and run by Tudor, that provides customizable, high-performance, highly robust movements to outside brands. This bodes well for the BR-CAL. 323 movement in the BRX5 watches, since like the ones found in Tudor watches, it comes with a modern 70 hour power reserve and can be (and is) COSC certified. Noteworthy as well is that this movement is supported by a 5 year warranty for the first time by Bell & Ross, as opposed to the 2 years of the standard warranty. 

Because of the customizable nature of the Kenissi made movement, the BRX5 comes with a dial detail that is not really associated with Tudor, save for the North Flag that came out more than 5 years ago. This is the large 3-day power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and it seems that it will be one of the design signatures of the new collection. Even though it does take up quite a bit of real estate on the dial, in the way that it is designed, it does not affect legibility at all, and its presence does really drive the point home about the power reserve advantage of the new movement over the previous ones. Then, at the 3 o’clock position on the dial is a triple date aperture, which is noteworthy for being inspired by analog flight instruments. 

The two dial variations available at launch are in black and ice blue, and either can be bought on a metal bracelet or matching open-worked rubber strap. There is really nothing more to say about the black dial version, since it is the benchmark version that most would gravitate to. Regarding the ice blue version, let’s just say it, you’ll probably hear the word “Tiffany” in your head when you look at it, and that's fine. There’s no harm in brands following prevailing trends and it is indeed a nice colour when you see the watch in person. 

Bell & Ross will be following up this announcement with a global launch in the coming weeks and I look forward to having some hands-on time with the watches, and will update this article with live pictures. Look out for it.

 Technical Specifications:

Movement:
BR-CAL.323. Manufacture. Automatic mechanical. Approximate power reserve of 72 hours.

Functions:
hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o’clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.

Case:
41 mm in width. 12.80 mm thick. Satin- finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown. Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with oscillating weight.

Dial:
sunray black or sunray ice blue. Applique indices filled with Super-LumiNova®. Metal skeletonised Super- LumiNova®-filled hour and minute hands. Black flange with 60-minute scale with white marking

Crystal:
sapphire with anti-reflective coating.

Water resistance:
100 metres.

Strap:
openworked black or ice blue rubber. or satin- finished and polished steel.

Buckle:
folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.

ISOCHRONO: One of the greatest feats of Bulgari has been to convince watch collectors that it is not just a jewelry brand but a legitimate watchmaker of the highest order. What do you think?

Fabrizio Buonamassa: I totally agree because this has been the biggest effort that we have undertaken over the last 15 years. I think that today, especially with the Octo Finissimo collection, we have completely changed the perception of the watch market to the point where we now can interact with very important collectors about watches in a way that wasn’t possible in the past.

We started the Octo journey 15 years ago and this was after we discovered the amazing knowhow in our facilities in Le Sentier. Thanks to the heritage of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, brands that we acquired in 2000, we decided to use this foundation to develop our own path.

Yes, it’s amazing what you’ve done with famed watch designer Gerald Genta’s Octo case.

The most incredible thing we discovered is how versatile the eight sided Octo case shape is. Gerald Genta’s original design was very unique as it had a square case with a round bezel, and each time when we change the material and finishing of an Octo case, we can get a totally different watch. The versatility of the design was for us the biggest surprise

Because we were completely free to imagine our own way, we started to talk about how the new Octo Finissimo would take a totally different approach, in comparison with other ultra thin watches that were mostly round in shape. I think this is the most important part of the story because when you are obsessed with copying others, you are always behind, and this is not interesting for the watch collector.

So the idea was to create a new way to wear an ultra thin watch, with a metal integrated bracelet that would be done in a very contemporary and modern way. That’s what I think is the secret behind what the Octo Finissimo has become today. The other point is that the accompanying movement and the overall aesthetics were also brand new. Unlike other situations when a watch brand brings out a beautiful watch with a very old movement, or sometimes an ugly watch with a very beautiful movement. With the Octo however, every element, from external design to internal mechanics, would be new and would both be at the same high level in terms of aesthetics and performance.

Was there doubt in the beginning whether the concept of the Octo Finissimo would work?

For sure, the approach was new at the time and we didn’t know how people would react to the reimagined Octo case. I mean, on the surface, it’s difficult to imagine how such an architectural case, with many facets and angles, and with a very strong design, could be made easy to wear in an ultra thin watch. But we knew it was possible and we decided to follow our instinct.

I felt that you went to the top of the mountain in terms of watchmaking, with the world’s thinnest tourbillon in the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in 2014 (5.0mm thick), then two years later in 2016 with the world’s thinnest minute repeater in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater (6.85mm thick).

Yes, people were impressed but they were still not totally convinced. The first reaction was “Yes, but they are only able to make 30 pieces!” The second time with the minute repeater, it was, “Yes, so they’re able to make 30 more pieces!” Our big milestone however was the Octo Finissimo Automatic in Titanium in 2017.

Why was this so? Because at the beginning we created the aesthetic of the ultra thin watch with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, second we created the minute repeater in titanium, and third, we finally introduced a watch that everyone could wear with the same amazing aesthetics.

How has the Octo journey been over the years?

It’s been a nonstop effort to push it through. I think ultimately, we have had to trust the process, find the idea, then make the watches and keep going even if people are not convinced. We’ve spent 10 years already and we’ve finally gotten to the 10th anniversary of the Octo Finissimo today.

Now we are at the stage where we are talking about the watch becoming, possibly, a new watchmaking icon, and mind you, this is from the opinion of experienced collectors, and even among new, younger collectors. Ultimately, I think if the project was not important for us, for sure it would not be important to the watch collector, and that is key.

You mentioned a few times how Bulgari watches have found appeal among younger watch collectors.

Certainly, I think the appeal is in the sporty design, compared to other ultra thin watches that are more formal. For these clients, it is a watch they discover, and a watch that begins their journey as a watch collector. In the future, it will become part of their heritage as a collector. In fact, I’ve met quite a few young watch collectors who tell me that they have more than one Octo Finissimo in their collections.

From your point of view you’ve seen a lot of positive response over the years for the Octo Finissimo. I myself have seen the Octo Finissimo appearing on the wrists of watch collectors around me in Singapore. It’s amazing to me how you have managed to change the perception of the market from Bulgari being just a jeweler to also a legitimate watchmaker.

For us, this was a big step because Bulgari is one of the most important jewelers in the world. When we presented the Octo Finissimo Automatic, we immediately started to receive comments about it being a new “icon”, and how it was the most incredible watch released in the last 50 years. This is fine. These are points of view afterall. But when very important collectors who are known for the acquisition of the finest watches ever made, both vintage and contemporary, start having the same opinion, or when they start to say that they have to buy an Octo Finissimo for their collections, then it means something.

What then would you say to people who are not convinced about the Octo Finissimo yet?

Of course, it’s likely that they are not convinced because it is an uncommon design. To this I will tell them, “Just try one on.”

I have had many clients who have told me that they like the look of the watch but that it is not for them. When this happens, I take the watch off my wrist and ask them to try it on and the response is always one of amazement.

I think perhaps in pictures, the Octo Finissimo looks bigger than in reality, and thus cannot convey the feeling when you put the watch on the wrist with the amazingly smooth bracelet. One common response from clients is how nice the feeling is in having a watch like this under their shirt cuff. It’s definitely something that is very rare among watches on an integrated bracelet, and the realisation of this fact can only come when the watch is on the wrist.

Furthermore, on the wrist the client is able to feel how super comfortable and super well done the bracelet is in terms of the smoothness of the surfaces. Even myself, honestly I don’t like watches on a bracelet as I prefer leather straps generally because you can play with different colours and textures of the leather.

The Octo Finissimo bracelet however, is something else, and I actually prefer it over the leather strap. In fact most clients who get it on the leather strap return to buy the bracelet from the boutique. Today 80% of the clients who buy an Octo Finissimo do so with the bracelet and that says something about how good it is.

I think one of the things that not many people are aware of as well is how well engineered your movements are, in terms of rigidity, quality and reliability.

We spent many years developing our movements and let me say, we are at the second stage of the Octo Finissimo, it’s still a young baby to us, but today, we have started to pay more attention to refine the overall quality of the product.

When we say quality, I think we are beyond talking about the movement, to us, it’s more about the finishing and the details. This extends to how we think about polishing the case, the ergonomics when wearing the watch, the thickness of the leather strap, etc.

In the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days for example, we have completely redesigned the movement. We moved from satin soleil finishing because it’s so reflective that it’s difficult to read the time previously to this, where we use applied indexes that stand out against the skeleton movement. Also another detail that you will notice is that we have taken the first link that comes from the metal bracelet and attached it to an alligator strap. I love this configuration because I think it’s very elegant and sporty at the same time, and furthermore, when you put it on the wrist, it is super comfortable and very light weight.

This Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days for me is currently the best Octo Finissimo that we’ve ever made, in terms of design and in terms of the performance of the movement. Overall we are satisfied with where we are. But as this watch shows, our focus is on improving all the individual elements, from the performance of the movement, to the quality of the finishing, and to a more comfortable feel of the bracelet and buckle on the wrist.

Overall, it is a difficult thing to do, because we have started to get a lot of requests from clients with interesting ideas, and we also have problems with capacity because of the demand for the watches from the market.

What are the coming goals of Bulgari as a watchmaker?

The direction is always to improve every single design detail of the Octo Finissimo.

When we wanted to create the Octo Finissimo S, the idea was to have a similar watch to the original Octo Finissimo in Titanium, but a little bit thicker (6.4mm vs 5.15mm) so that it could have 100 metres of water resistance (versus 30 metres) along with a screw down crown for more versatile everyday use.

We found out when we did this that the watch market is split into two. On the one hand you have the watch collectors who told us not to touch the original Octo Finissimo in Titanium as they were not interested in water resistance or a screw down crown because they had other watches to wear when swimming. On the other hand, this new Octo Finissimo S, was welcomed enthusiastically by another type of client, and these were newer watch collectors who indeed wanted something more versatile for everyday use, just like our original intention.

Because of this, we realized that trying to make every Octo Finissimo in our collections in the same way, with 100 metres water resistance was not the right approach. Instead, each model has to be done in its own way, exploring the possibilities in terms of materials and finishing.

For example, the Octo Finissimo Sejima Limited Edition is made of stainless steel but the finish is executed in an unconventional way. Everything is in full polish, the case, the bracelet, the dial and the hands, and the effect is mesmerizing. It’s still the same Octo Finissimo case shape that we know, but the feeling of this watch is so different.

As a watch designer, this is what is interesting to me, creating a different effect from different types of ingredients, and using the same case to show the limits of what it can do.

I believe that the Octo Finissio has the potential to become an icon in watchmaking, what are your thoughts?

Thank you so much. We shall see and we shall hope. As of today, I think that the Octo Finissimo is definitely a trendsetter. We see this because of other prestigious brands going in the direction of integrated bracelet watches in ultra thin execution after it came out. Before Bulgari, the world of ultra thin watches was dominated by brands like Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, but what they mainly offered were watches in a traditional round case with a thin bezel, and usually worn on a black alligator strap. All in all, watches that you would wear a tuxedo with, all very formal and very elegant.

The Octo Finissimo changed all that, and showed the world how good a sporty watch could look when done in the ultra thin genre, with a modern and contemporary feel, and furthermore in our technical abilities, as a basis for ultra thin grand complications. Beyond looks however, it’s an amazing pleasure to wear a watch like this everyday.